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Posted

Hi Folks,

 

I was thinking when I have painted the hull of my kit in copper and apply a matt finish I could weathering it with Humbrol Chrome oxide. This has a greenish color. I could even use a little yellow the sand weathering power to soften the green a little.

 

I would like to experiment a little with those weathering powders now I got them at home waiting for me.

 

Anybody has some thoughts about that?

 

http://www.humbrol.com/us-en/shop/weathering/weathering-powders.html

 

Grtz Ray

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Hi Ray,

 

I'm kinda new to the plastic sailing ship hobby. I just started my third, an old 1:96 scale model of the Cutty Sark, and painting the hulls with flat acrylics. But the thing is just looking too new!. I want to go for an aged, weathered look. There has to be a simple way, but I can't find whole lot of info about it.

 

Will you post the results you got with the weathering powders, and how you did it?

 

Thanks. Good luck with your build!

Pete

Posted

Hi Pete yes i will post the results. I had to work for a while so im not at home (i travell a lot for work) so please be patience and I will show if this is working. Further i recommend you to check the the Log from dafi on the victory and do a search on Le Superbe from BE you will get some nice ideas.

 

Im new to to this hobby and this was just something I thought that might work.......who knows

 

 

grtz Ray

Posted

Hi Folks

 

I've been trying some things regarding this weathering of a copper hull. I've done 3 tests.

 

1) Using the Humbrol Chrome Oxide with a gloss verniz. The result is vissible on th etop right of the test plate I used. As you can see this is a dissaster.

 

2) I used the Humbrol Chrome Oxide with Decal soft from Revell so you get a wash effect. The procedure works better but it is not the right color (Chrome has a different color while oxidized as Copper so makes sense). Result is vissible on the right bottom side.

 

3) I took a turquoise enamel paint and applied the dry brush technique. This result is visible on the left side.

 

I think I will go for option 3 even though I really would like to use these powders as I have seen nice results but for this purpose I think it doesnt work. The turquoise has a much more realistic color for copper oxide.

 

post-23820-0-15798700-1459528702_thumb.jpg

 

But if anybody has other opinions or ideas feel free to give them.

 

Grtz Ray

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I set out an empty cat box and collected some cat urine. I know it will turn copper green, but I've not had a chance to try it on a completed hull yet. A little goes a long way and you'd best do gthis outside! Edinrog

Posted

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Posted

Try this it might work better and not smell as bad. My wife uses this all the time on her copper garden artwork.

Here is a link.

 

https://www.jaxchemical.com/jaxshop/shopexd.asp?id=19

Ken

Current build: Maersk Detroit"
Future builds:  Mamoli HMS Victory 1:90
Completed builds: US Brig Niagara, Dirty Dozen, USS Constitution, 18th Century Armed Longboat
https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/11935-uss-constitution-by-xken-model-shipways-scale-1768/

 

  • 2 months later...
Posted (edited)

If you are going to accurately "weather" a ship model that has a copper sheathed bottom, there won't be any copper color to be seen.  Even a new coppered bottom will, within a few weeks, turn to a verdigris green color.  Once the vessel has been in the water for a few months, that will remain to some extent at the waterline, but below that it will be fouled with a lot of dark green and dark brown growth which will look almost black from a distance.  For modeling purposes, if one wants the "used" look, rather than a pristine "as built" presentation, one might as well use paper sheets rather than the fancy copper foil the kit makers sell and paint it accordingly.  Trying to achieve a "patina" on a copper bottom by treating the copper is a lot harder than just painting it.  Even left alone, new copper will turn a pleasant, and accurate, brown color after it's been in the case for a few years.  Take a look at the pennies in your pocket.

Edited by Bob Cleek
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Another way...

 

Basecoat the copper plates black. Then airbrush the plates with copper (Vallejo Metal Color range is really good). Wash with emerald green and a wash mix of black and brown after that. Can highlight with the airbrush with copper again (very lightly..a thin layer).

WIP: No ships atm...sorry!🙄

Completed: Greek bireme - Dusek - scale 1:72

 Louie da fly: "I think it requires a special kind of insanity to choose a galley to build a model of."

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I ran across a modeler who used Brandon Enterprises weathering powder on his painted copper hull. He used FF-162 kit which includes Old Yeller, Green Grunge, The Blues and Used Brick powders. Used sparingly! It looks pretty impressive! I plan on going this route with my Constitution build.

Robert O

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