HM Brig Supply by Telp - Caldercraft - 1:64

[Telp]

After a couple of days gently getting the deck to sit I have now glued down the bow and stern deck sections and will hopefully glue down the mid section before having a weekend in London then spending as long as it takes to do all the fairing required to begin the first planking. Thankfully the beauty of having as much time as I want is teaching me to check and double check everything. Have a good weekend all.

[Elijah]

Looking good! Have fun in London!

[Sjors]

You are on the right track Terry !

I will take a seat and will follow this journey !

Have fun in London and enjoy !!!!!

 

Sjors

[Telp]

A couple of questions for anyone who has made the HM supply please:

 

I read that after planking that the Bulwarks need to be twisted and removed from the deck, then after rubbing down the deck area to clear any messy bulwark bits that you then line the inside of the bulwark with finish planking. The problem I have is that looking at other peoples models, the gun port cut outs look way thicker, can someone confirm if this is correct.

 

Also, can anyone advise if the bulkhead at position 10 has an issue..... I am about to start my first planking but when I dry fit planks near bulkhead 10 it seems a little short, I can fair bulkhead 9 to maybe match into the 10, but I am a little concerned that I may take off wood on bulkhead 9 that I don't need too.

 

Many thanks and happy easter

 

terry

[riverboat]

Terry ... the gun ports are not that thick ,they may look that way but they are not.... once you get the inner bulwarks planked and the rail on you'll see they are OK... as far as # 10 bulwark.... if I remember correctly I had some issue with either 9 or 10 ... I think I had to add some strip .05mm to make a smooth run....... you might want to get a saw that lays flat when you bend it  to cut the tops off . Zona makes a real nice one, it's a good tool to have in  your box. I hope this is of some help. Almost forgot... remember to lay a batten across the bulwarks to make sure they lay good on them do that all the time as you are fairing them. it's very important to pay attention ti that step.. and come to think of it  I think I had more than one issue with the bulwarks  I think now I had a problem with 2 or 3 of them. That's why its important to lay the batten across them so you can see if there are high or low spots they need to be addressed.

 

Frank

Edited March 26, 2016 by riverboat

[RonaldB]

Hi Terry, I would also say, use some thin strip glued on the bulkheads to fill up, and then sand for a smooth fairing.

And mayby, use some balsa filler blocks for a larger glue surface and more smooth fairing.

The total thickness at the gunports is ca 3,5mm ( first, second, and bulwark inner planking)

 

Ron

[Telp]

Thanks frank and Ron

 

I have been following some of the pictures from your build frank and thank heavens they are there as I'd never have worked out some of the things from the prints, I have only just worked out the prints are a full size copy of the ship itself. I will take on board what you both have said and continue with making sure the bulkheads and other things are as good as possible before moving on.

 

Many thanks

[hornet]

Terry

 

From memory, I too had to take quite a bit off bulkheads 9, 10 & 11. Frank has given you some very good advise about using a batten. From memory I had to add some `meat' to a couple of the other bulwarks using the method Frank describes - using 0.5 strips. Just make sure you get her smooth and level. It's better to get it right  at this stage than having to overuse filler and sand the hell out of it later.

 

I dug up a photo of my HMB Supply at this stage from my archives. Hope it helps.

 

Steve

 

 

[Telp]

Thanks Steve, must admit,others photos help no end. I am doing battens as I move around with the fairing and so far things are touching where they should. Some photos can be very deceiving in sight as such, when I looked at the planking for just above the deck it looked huge in photos, then when I placed a piece to measure against I found the total bulwark section is 5mm ( 1 plank height ) from the deck edge upwards, it is teaching me to be 5 steps in front sometimes and to measure everything.

Edited March 27, 2016 by Telp

[Telp]

Been a few weeks since my last post, I have finally placed the first planking and will post some pics soon, never went fuss free but I have the initial shape and am in the process of sanding down. I wanted to give my head a rest so spent today putting one of the 4 pound cannons together, what a great way of chilling out as well. Thanks to some photos from other builds in here I am adopting a few changes from the plans of the ship such as installing eyelets for rigging the cannons later. Will post some first planking shots in a couple of days.

 

Terry

[Telp]

A few pics of my first planking, I am now taking time to get a shape, a bit of filler is helping with my mess ups. I decided to use 10mm bits for the deck edges as I made a mess up removing all the pegs that help with the planking run, the 10mm are also helping me re align the deck as I think the actual ship was slightly warped at the start, but I am happy with the fist planking so far, I just need to refrain from too much rubbing down as the wood is thin in parts, I have to say, I was not impressed with the wood itself, very sub standard. Will now take photos as I move on.

 

Captain minion is my kit boss for now :-)

[Elijah]

Looks good! Captain minion .

[RonaldB]

Fist layer looks good, especially at the bow !

Waiting for the next part.

Ron

[hornet]

Hi Terry

 

Looking Good. One thing I did notice from your photos, and you may already intend to rectify this, is that the top layer of planking on the bow section is not the same distance from the deck for its entire length (it tapers towards the front) See arrowed copy of your photo below. If left like this it is not going to look right and it will also be impossible to drill hawser holes through the front for your anchor ropes (not wide enough) Once the bow piece (part 23) is fitted only 1 - 2 mm of it should be above the level of the top planks at the bow (and it should be sloping upwards towards the front) so that you can fix the bowsprit to it. I've added a couple of close up pics of my Supply to illustrate what I am getting at. Hope this helps.

 

Steve

[Telp]

Ahh thanks Steve, I can see what you mean when I look at the plans as well. I made a classic mistake of thinking the decks were correct when I began planking to then realise they were not quite square, I will have a look at maybe raising the front edge planking somehow, probably be easier to add a 5mm section to the top edges then rub the wood back Down to create a level section, much obliged for the heads up indeed. I had already fitted the bow front piece prior to reading this but that may allow me something to square up to.

 

Many thanks and thanks all.

 

Terry

[hornet]

Terry

 

Adding another level of 5mm planking to the top then sanding it back with a sanding block is exactly what I would do too. It's all a learning curve

 

Cheers

Steve

[Telp]

As per Steves advice to raise the bow bulwark, I have contoured a line from the inside of the original shallow bulwark with a couple of pieces of 5mm to give me the line I need and will finish that off with a couple of bits of 2mm on the outside to give it sghape and some strength. As I had not yet placed any finish second planking on the inside of the original bulwark it has allowed me some tolerance in thickness and made it easier to sand down as there will be less friction on a more solid part. I'll photo the finished part when it's done, going to give the glue a few hours to set.

 

May adopt this approach to give the back bulwarks a more straight defined line as well, this will help make the decks look less warped.bthanks again Steve.

[Telp]

Have now finished raising the bow bulwarks so they are correct as per the plans and Stevens pictures, they came out reasonably well in the end, have put on sone acrylic primer so once I have finished rubbing down the first planking I can put a finish on prior to starting the second planking. Have also started on the rear cabin panels adding the Windows after glazing them so they look like a glass effect, just wish I'd put a couple of small bulbs in the rear so it looked as if the lights were on, might still look into that :-) then again, I think there is enough to do.

 

Will post again once I start the second planking.

[Telp]

Decided to give my brig supply captains door a bit of an uplift by adding brass hinges and a brass door handle, with the glazed Windows it's not too bad and I now realise I have more patience than I thought.

[Telp]

Am also after some feedback please, I like the builds on here where Windows are added to the stern area, so I have done a mock up of what I fancy doing but would welcome any feedback to if it looks stupid. I was also looking at just two Windows at either side of the section, I'd like to keep the area black if I can and the name "supply" will be added to the top curve section using letraset. Thanks foe comments.

[Dfell]

Telp - windows look good

 

 

Doug

[hornet]

Hi again Terry

 

Have you taken a look at the stern photo of the model of the 'Supply' in the Powerhouse Museum in Sydney. I used it and a contemporary painting (which I cannot now find) to build stern windows for my Supply.

 

Cheers

Steve

[Telp]

Thanks all, I tried to access the Australian museum Steve but I can only ever see one side on picture. Windows seem to be a nightmare here, I have been looking around dolls house shops and model train shops and they offer very little in the way of Windows at a good size to fit. It's a shame that Caldercraft never produced the model with the rear window sections as part of the kit, I'll try and have another look around and see what is available, anything will be better than having the name "supply" literally covering the whole stern surface area.

 

I may black the brass hinges though as it does give it a "toyish" feel rather than a little bit of authenticity.

 

Terry

[hornet]

Terry

 

Below is a pic of the stern of the Powerhouse Museum Model as well as the stern of my Supply (My Supply on top). I used a piece of black card and glued the timber frame of the windows to it - then glued the windows to the stern. The `glass' was in fact a 2 part clear epoxy which is used to cover/protect the 'whipping' on fishing rod guides (I also build my own fishing rods) but I suppose you could use clear plastic for this.

Edited April 30, 2016 by hornet

[Telp]

Brilliant, thanks Steve,, I must say I think I prefer the Windows you show in the pictures so I may well give them a go. I did manage to see some of the Australian pictures and I noticed the ship was not white hulled in the finished model, this appeals to me as I was going to do a varnish job first to see what she looked like, I notice as well there are a number of items on the deck which are not in the model, may have a good look and see what's different, planking isn't my best thing and rigging I find strange, so I will do what I can with other goodies on the deck.

[Telp]

After a few months of getting things reasonably ok I am now embarking on the 2nd planking, not been looking forwards to this for sure but I have it in my head to go steady and to not touch another plank until I am 100 per cent happy with the one I have attached.

 

I am waiting on a couple of 300mm Irvin clamps before I hit the larger areas as I do not want to place nails to hold the wood in place, I am using ca glue at the very tips of the bow just to hold things as there are not many good on board clamping opportunities. As captain Scott said "I may be gone a while" just hope I leave enough room to add the satellite dish to the mast later

[Telp]

Well that's today's efforts completed, back to work tomorrow then a long weekend in London. Found the walnut wood very nice to sand and decided to sort any gaps as I go. An old trick I use to use when I was an aircraft painter was to mix body filler with a small amount of water mixed to a paste then gently fill in any small areas where the planks were not quite square. Captain minion is happy enough for now.

[robdurant]

Hi Terry,

 

Just checked in to see the progress, and its looking fantastic so far!

 

Slow and steady's definitely the way. I was impressed with how nice the walnut looked once it was sanded down... seemed a shame to put paint on it, really. Glad to hear you're going to leave it on display. Your progress so far suggests that's going to be a great choice!

 

I've noticed a number of posts on this forum have recommended mixing wood dust in with carpenter's glue to fill gaps? Might work well, although I've not tried it myself. Sounds like it might have the same effect as the water and filler but end up even closer in colour to the existing planking? It might also take the varnish better when you come to finish the hull? A sample test might be in order. Just my tuppence. Feel free to ignore.

 

Rob

[Telp]

Thanks rob, I will try the wood in glue bit on any smaller gaps, one thing I'd like to do is get new cannons, I don't like the cut on the kit ones, not one of them is the same cut, I'm not sure of what to get but there must be better ones out there that will work on the brig.

[Telp]

After a few attempts to put a set of self made Windows at the stern, I finally went for some Windows I got cheap off the net, now painted and glazed, I just need to do a few fine cuts and sanding tasks to make them look a bit tidier. Thank heavens for dolls houses :-)