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Copper tape plating question

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If you use copper tape, and planning on using strips rather than individual bricks, what is the best way to make indention on the strips to show the 'individual plates?


I have tried a blunt hobby knife, by pressing directly down on the tape. It seems ok, but I am not sure if there is a better way.

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I use the same as Steve a ponce wheel.

Have a look at page 9 at the very bottom of page.



They come with different distance marking spaces.

If you need very small spacings try using a small gear wheel ground to a point. Grinding both sides to the middle.

Mount it on a shaft and away you go.


Regards Antony.

Edited by AntonyUK
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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm sure this will be of no help to you...not unless you have the tools. And the gumption.


Personally...I'm exhausted by laying 1600+ individual copper plates.....so I've devised a way to save myself a ton of time and aches.


First you'll need an old fashion clothes ringer......a piece of fine mesh wire or screen that represents the approximate distance/length of each plate...and your copper tape.


Set the clothes ringer to a snug contact...then run in your wire mesh/screen...after your mesh is in and the ringer has a good hold of it...then run in your tape in between the opposite direction mesh wire of the creen..... then roll the clothes ringer. Being careful to make sue the tape tracks between the wire mesh. You're basically feeding it.

It will impress a regular crease on the copper tape....in essence, giving you an entire lengths strip of pressed copper tape ready to be placed on the hull.


I have experimented with this idea and it works.  Mind you..it is technique sensitive and will require some practice to get it right.  I'm waiting myself for more tape to arrive so I can proceed with this for my own current build.


I hope this lunacy is helpful.  I thought this idea up cuz 1600 individual acid etched copper plates cost nearly $352 plus shipping.   An that ain't happening.


Good luck and fair seas.



Edited by rwiederrich
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Copper sheets were held on with counter-sunk, flat headed, copper nails - not rivets.


If you're using peel-n-stick copper tape, get some thin brass or aluminum and make dents in it for the nail pattern, You can fold an edge down to imprint the seam.  Mount the plate on a block or handle, and press it into the tape on a firm backer, like hard rubber.









The above model is 1:36 scale and 62" on deck, and the tape is 1/2" wide.  The dents are made from the outside, and get pushed back out when the plate's pressed onto the hull, giving a counter-sunk nail appearance.  The process works as well at smaller scales.

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