Roter Lowe by Stevinne - Mamoli - 1:55 - Dutch-built Galleon

[Keith Black]

On 4/13/2024 at 8:45 PM, Stevinne said:

I got enough of these bad boys to hopefully last me a decade or so.

 I've not had good luck with those needle threader because the threader loop readily separates from the thumb portion plus the threader loop is rather short. I really like these pictured below, if Drake would like one to see how they work out tell em I'll send em one. 

 

 Nice work on the Lowe. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/Eketirry-threaders-Threader-Crafting-Knitting/dp/B09ZQJ3XJB/ref=sxin_16_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.679ca254-fe3a-4b5e-a742-a17f009c74a4%3Aamzn1.sym.679ca254-fe3a-4b5e-a742-a17f009c74a4&crid=3JJ455SJL6WFC&cv_ct_cx=needle%2Bthreaders&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.jOeYPNH5p1t-GEG7QKj_1VJ-pwdrEnAAp70tvcp-hm_FJVMGcl9ZWsvK2Ms9KDJ3WUQcGsVr2rt7GZzqpAKEKw.xyyBoCeouw0bR7mU9Svc3uTYE-QEVRSVcGrSZuSyfQ0&dib_tag=se&keywords=needle%2Bthreaders&pd_rd_i=B09ZQJ3XJB&pd_rd_r=41baf063-95bc-40e7-82c9-4d0a3906f85c&pd_rd_w=0wSPk&pd_rd_wg=8IpDo&pf_rd_p=679ca254-fe3a-4b5e-a742-a17f009c74a4&pf_rd_r=ACYFTZ52Q06HJV098X9M&qid=1715130095&s=home-garden&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=needle%2Bthreaders%2Cgarden%2C72&sr=1-3-364cf978-ce2a-480a-9bb0-bdb96faa0f61-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1  

[Stevinne]

21 hours ago, Keith Black said:

 I've not had good luck with those needle threader because the threader loop readily separates from the thumb portion plus the threader loop is rather short. I really like these pictured below, if Drake would like one to see how they work out tell em I'll send em one. 

 

 Nice work on the Lowe. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/Eketirry-threaders-Threader-Crafting-Knitting/dp/B09ZQJ3XJB/ref=sxin_16_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.679ca254-fe3a-4b5e-a742-a17f009c74a4%3Aamzn1.sym.679ca254-fe3a-4b5e-a742-a17f009c74a4&crid=3JJ455SJL6WFC&cv_ct_cx=needle%2Bthreaders&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.jOeYPNH5p1t-GEG7QKj_1VJ-pwdrEnAAp70tvcp-hm_FJVMGcl9ZWsvK2Ms9KDJ3WUQcGsVr2rt7GZzqpAKEKw.xyyBoCeouw0bR7mU9Svc3uTYE-QEVRSVcGrSZuSyfQ0&dib_tag=se&keywords=needle%2Bthreaders&pd_rd_i=B09ZQJ3XJB&pd_rd_r=41baf063-95bc-40e7-82c9-4d0a3906f85c&pd_rd_w=0wSPk&pd_rd_wg=8IpDo&pf_rd_p=679ca254-fe3a-4b5e-a742-a17f009c74a4&pf_rd_r=ACYFTZ52Q06HJV098X9M&qid=1715130095&s=home-garden&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=needle%2Bthreaders%2Cgarden%2C72&sr=1-3-364cf978-ce2a-480a-9bb0-bdb96faa0f61-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1  

I included one of those in my purchases, and I have to say I am so far impressed with how it works. Granted, I still have many more blocks and deadeyes to thread, but so far the little guy is performing like a champ and shows no sign of giving up the ghost.

 

[kirill4]

Good day,

#90

Main and main top stays probably should be arranged in a little bit different way...?

Lower loop of MS used to be secured to the upper part of the  stem or to the fore mast or to the bowsprit  and run on the right side of the mast as a rule, and MS tackles in form of pair of 5 holes deadeyes or 3 sheeves blocks need to be placed very close to the fore mast ...

main top stay used to be passed trough the lead block which is secured under the "mars"  or above it, in both caces  lead block stropped very close to the mast top, main topmast stay passes trough this lead block and runs to the deck and secured near the mast base...or main topmast stay could be secured to the fore mast top by means of tackle formed by deadeyes or pair of blocks... 

Ps

Standing and running rigging ropes are all of different diameters , there are a few exel tables free for download to calculate your own ropes size, when model has all ropes of the same size it doesn't look nice and right...

Edited May 8 by kirill4

[Stevinne]

I've been slogging through attaching shrouds and thought I was making progress. But, when I went to gather the foremast top shrouds, the top ring of the foremast top came loose, requiring some gluing and clamping. I'd been really careful when originally putting the top together to make sure everything lined up and looked good. Now I fear what things will look like when I remove the clamps.

[Stevinne]

On 5/8/2024 at 6:38 PM, kirill4 said:

Good day,

#90

Main and main top stays probably should be arranged in a little bit different way...?

Lower loop of MS used to be secured to the upper part of the  stem or to the fore mast or to the bowsprit  and run on the right side of the mast as a rule, and MS tackles in form of pair of 5 holes deadeyes or 3 sheeves blocks need to be placed very close to the fore mast ...

main top stay used to be passed trough the lead block which is secured under the "mars"  or above it, in both caces  lead block stropped very close to the mast top, main topmast stay passes trough this lead block and runs to the deck and secured near the mast base...or main topmast stay could be secured to the fore mast top by means of tackle formed by deadeyes or pair of blocks... 

Ps

Standing and running rigging ropes are all of different diameters , there are a few exel tables free for download to calculate your own ropes size, when model has all ropes of the same size it doesn't look nice and right...

Krill, I'd originally had the lower mainmast stay rigged as you describe, that is what is called for in the plans, but I was concerned because things were rubbing against the top of the focsle. I looked around for alternatives and found some Golden Hind build logs and copied their approach. The main top stay is rigged as per the plans, though having worked with these plans for many years, I increasingly find that to be little comfort. 

[kirill4]

Good day,

It is very sad to see this troubles with topmast platforms... lacky Younare still in that stage when a few jobs for reinforcement could be done with small looses , but not like this kind of trouble could happened when all rigging completed and sails installed as well... that will be a real serious trouble

What I could guess, may be there is sence to undone upper shrouds, to reinforce entire tops construction and made them more reliable secured to the masthead?

Actually rim of the tops shouldn't be loaded by topmast shrouds and teared off the place, for that forces of the topmast shrouds transfered to the mast shrouds by means of futtock shrouds which are pass trough the holes in the top... looking at your photo I see topmast shrouds but no fitted futtock shrouds...hm... this is not right way to rigg topmast shrouds, may be this provoked troubles which You expetienced?

 

[Stevinne]

7 hours ago, kirill4 said:

Good day,

It is very sad to see this troubles with topmast platforms... lacky Younare still in that stage when a few jobs for reinforcement could be done with small looses , but not like this kind of trouble could happened when all rigging completed and sails installed as well... that will be a real serious trouble

What I could guess, may be there is sence to undone upper shrouds, to reinforce entire tops construction and made them more reliable secured to the masthead?

Actually rim of the tops shouldn't be loaded by topmast shrouds and teared off the place, for that forces of the topmast shrouds transfered to the mast shrouds by means of futtock shrouds which are pass trough the holes in the top... looking at your photo I see topmast shrouds but no fitted futtock shrouds...hm... this is not right way to rigg topmast shrouds, may be this provoked troubles which You expetienced?

 

You're right about the futtock shrouds. My plan is to do the ratlines on the lower shrouds and then attach the futtocks. In retrospect, perhaps I should have completed the lower shrouds, ratted them and attached the futtocks before I moved on to the topmast. That would have prevented another issue I had with the topmast shrouds, which was the lower deadeyes twisting as I rigged the upper deadeyes. Oh well, live and learn.

[kirill4]

Good day Stevinne,

Your plan sounds good!

Don't forget to reinforce top construction, perhabs need to install some wooden or metal pins in some critical points to create reliable connection of top elements ?

When I did my rigging, I don't remember  issues with shrouds twisting, but I try to avoid as much as possible to create any tensions or load on shrouds and other standing rigging( due to plastic masts and spars of my model)... all were  done with applying minimum "forces" if we could say that, moreover, as I mentioned early, do better to paint all threads You use for rigging befor use... it could be painted by mix of artistic oil paints deluted in tick oil and thinner or by acryl artistic paints of suitable colors... actualy we need two colors for our purposes, bright for running rigging  and dark for standing...

There is a  receipt from one of high level modeller , how he paints his rope:

"...for coloring white threads with artistic oil paints, you can dilute the composition in half a liter container, for example - a tube of paint is mixed with liquid oil - teak, for example  (you can add more white spirit - to make the composition more liquid) Natural umber is used for standing rigging.  On running, ocher is added to this paint.
 It is dyed by pulling a thread through a can or a poured puddle of paint.  Then the thread is pulled several times through the cotton glove and hung out to dry.  Can be used in a day.

One of the Model of Dmitry Shevelev  https://www.shipmodeling.ru/phpbb/viewtopic.php?p=370243#p370243

Before painting or even when threads were painted and still wet and hanging for drying, it could be loaded a little with weight of some steel bolts or nuts which will release internal tensions some times remains in thread ... that also will help to avoid twisting effect...

All the Best!!!

Kirill

Ps 

There is sence to check which kind of  thread used for shrouds - right or left hand made and how it passes around desdeyes - clockwise or counterclockwise direction when fitted? 

Details You could found in Anderson book.

 

Edited May 18 by kirill4

[Baker]

Saved by Kirill post 578, second time 😉 👍

 

[Stevinne]

It's been a while since I've posted, but I have been at work, slogging through attaching the ratlines. This is my first galleon build, and this ship has six shrouds on the lower foremast and seven on the mainmast. That compares to four on each for my Constructo Enterprise and Le Reynard cutter - so lots more tying of very small knots. Once I was done, I painted the whole assembly with diluted carpenter's glue to help keep the knots together. Futtock shrouds are next. 

[Stevinne]

I haven't had much time to work on the ship for the past couple of weeks. The pressgang brought aboard a new shipmate. She's still a grass-combing lubber who can't hand, reef or steer and requires a lot of attention and our free time, but she's fast as a whip and will surely play havoc with the bread room rats (and the squirrels outside, though she's not really much larger).

Edited July 20 by Stevinne

[Keith Black]

 That's a face full of curiosity right there. Cute little mutt, does she sleep snuggled up? 

[Stevinne]

On 7/20/2024 at 3:33 PM, Keith Black said:

 That's a face full of curiosity right there. Cute little mutt, does she sleep snuggled up? 

Yes. She has a small bed and is the first dog we've had that actually enjoys sleeping in a bed. She ties herself in a tight knot and likes having a padded wall she can rest against. Lucky for us, she also seems smart and was able to pick up house training in just a few days.