Keith Black Posted May 8 Share #91 Posted May 8 On 4/13/2024 at 8:45 PM, Stevinne said: I got enough of these bad boys to hopefully last me a decade or so. I've not had good luck with those needle threader because the threader loop readily separates from the thumb portion plus the threader loop is rather short. I really like these pictured below, if Drake would like one to see how they work out tell em I'll send em one. Nice work on the Lowe. https://www.amazon.com/Eketirry-threaders-Threader-Crafting-Knitting/dp/B09ZQJ3XJB/ref=sxin_16_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.679ca254-fe3a-4b5e-a742-a17f009c74a4%3Aamzn1.sym.679ca254-fe3a-4b5e-a742-a17f009c74a4&crid=3JJ455SJL6WFC&cv_ct_cx=needle%2Bthreaders&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.jOeYPNH5p1t-GEG7QKj_1VJ-pwdrEnAAp70tvcp-hm_FJVMGcl9ZWsvK2Ms9KDJ3WUQcGsVr2rt7GZzqpAKEKw.xyyBoCeouw0bR7mU9Svc3uTYE-QEVRSVcGrSZuSyfQ0&dib_tag=se&keywords=needle%2Bthreaders&pd_rd_i=B09ZQJ3XJB&pd_rd_r=41baf063-95bc-40e7-82c9-4d0a3906f85c&pd_rd_w=0wSPk&pd_rd_wg=8IpDo&pf_rd_p=679ca254-fe3a-4b5e-a742-a17f009c74a4&pf_rd_r=ACYFTZ52Q06HJV098X9M&qid=1715130095&s=home-garden&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=needle%2Bthreaders%2Cgarden%2C72&sr=1-3-364cf978-ce2a-480a-9bb0-bdb96faa0f61-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1 Quote Current Builds: Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia Completed: Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevinne Posted May 8 Author Share #92 Posted May 8 21 hours ago, Keith Black said: I've not had good luck with those needle threader because the threader loop readily separates from the thumb portion plus the threader loop is rather short. I really like these pictured below, if Drake would like one to see how they work out tell em I'll send em one. Nice work on the Lowe. https://www.amazon.com/Eketirry-threaders-Threader-Crafting-Knitting/dp/B09ZQJ3XJB/ref=sxin_16_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.679ca254-fe3a-4b5e-a742-a17f009c74a4%3Aamzn1.sym.679ca254-fe3a-4b5e-a742-a17f009c74a4&crid=3JJ455SJL6WFC&cv_ct_cx=needle%2Bthreaders&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.jOeYPNH5p1t-GEG7QKj_1VJ-pwdrEnAAp70tvcp-hm_FJVMGcl9ZWsvK2Ms9KDJ3WUQcGsVr2rt7GZzqpAKEKw.xyyBoCeouw0bR7mU9Svc3uTYE-QEVRSVcGrSZuSyfQ0&dib_tag=se&keywords=needle%2Bthreaders&pd_rd_i=B09ZQJ3XJB&pd_rd_r=41baf063-95bc-40e7-82c9-4d0a3906f85c&pd_rd_w=0wSPk&pd_rd_wg=8IpDo&pf_rd_p=679ca254-fe3a-4b5e-a742-a17f009c74a4&pf_rd_r=ACYFTZ52Q06HJV098X9M&qid=1715130095&s=home-garden&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=needle%2Bthreaders%2Cgarden%2C72&sr=1-3-364cf978-ce2a-480a-9bb0-bdb96faa0f61-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1 I included one of those in my purchases, and I have to say I am so far impressed with how it works. Granted, I still have many more blocks and deadeyes to thread, but so far the little guy is performing like a champ and shows no sign of giving up the ghost. Keith Black 1 Quote Under construction: Mamoli Roter Lowe Completed builds: Constructo Enterprise, AL Le Renard Up next: Panart Lynx, MS Harriet Lane In need of attention: 14-foot Pintail in the driveway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirill4 Posted May 8 Share #93 Posted May 8 (edited) Good day, #90 Main and main top stays probably should be arranged in a little bit different way...? Lower loop of MS used to be secured to the upper part of the stem or to the fore mast or to the bowsprit and run on the right side of the mast as a rule, and MS tackles in form of pair of 5 holes deadeyes or 3 sheeves blocks need to be placed very close to the fore mast ... main top stay used to be passed trough the lead block which is secured under the "mars" or above it, in both caces lead block stropped very close to the mast top, main topmast stay passes trough this lead block and runs to the deck and secured near the mast base...or main topmast stay could be secured to the fore mast top by means of tackle formed by deadeyes or pair of blocks... Ps Standing and running rigging ropes are all of different diameters , there are a few exel tables free for download to calculate your own ropes size, when model has all ropes of the same size it doesn't look nice and right... Edited May 8 by kirill4 Baker 1 Quote Current Build: Spanish Galleon, Lee, 1:100 https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/6262-spanish-galleon-1607-by-kirill4-lee-plastic-1100/& https://karopka.ru/forum/forum190/topic10341/ Dutch 16-17 Arts Sailing Vessels in details https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/en/rijksstudio/1845326--kirill-shabanov/collections/arts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevinne Posted May 18 Author Share #94 Posted May 18 I've been slogging through attaching shrouds and thought I was making progress. But, when I went to gather the foremast top shrouds, the top ring of the foremast top came loose, requiring some gluing and clamping. I'd been really careful when originally putting the top together to make sure everything lined up and looked good. Now I fear what things will look like when I remove the clamps. Keith Black and Baker 2 Quote Under construction: Mamoli Roter Lowe Completed builds: Constructo Enterprise, AL Le Renard Up next: Panart Lynx, MS Harriet Lane In need of attention: 14-foot Pintail in the driveway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevinne Posted May 18 Author Share #95 Posted May 18 On 5/8/2024 at 6:38 PM, kirill4 said: Good day, #90 Main and main top stays probably should be arranged in a little bit different way...? Lower loop of MS used to be secured to the upper part of the stem or to the fore mast or to the bowsprit and run on the right side of the mast as a rule, and MS tackles in form of pair of 5 holes deadeyes or 3 sheeves blocks need to be placed very close to the fore mast ... main top stay used to be passed trough the lead block which is secured under the "mars" or above it, in both caces lead block stropped very close to the mast top, main topmast stay passes trough this lead block and runs to the deck and secured near the mast base...or main topmast stay could be secured to the fore mast top by means of tackle formed by deadeyes or pair of blocks... Ps Standing and running rigging ropes are all of different diameters , there are a few exel tables free for download to calculate your own ropes size, when model has all ropes of the same size it doesn't look nice and right... Krill, I'd originally had the lower mainmast stay rigged as you describe, that is what is called for in the plans, but I was concerned because things were rubbing against the top of the focsle. I looked around for alternatives and found some Golden Hind build logs and copied their approach. The main top stay is rigged as per the plans, though having worked with these plans for many years, I increasingly find that to be little comfort. Keith Black 1 Quote Under construction: Mamoli Roter Lowe Completed builds: Constructo Enterprise, AL Le Renard Up next: Panart Lynx, MS Harriet Lane In need of attention: 14-foot Pintail in the driveway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirill4 Posted May 18 Share #96 Posted May 18 Good day, It is very sad to see this troubles with topmast platforms... lacky Younare still in that stage when a few jobs for reinforcement could be done with small looses , but not like this kind of trouble could happened when all rigging completed and sails installed as well... that will be a real serious trouble What I could guess, may be there is sence to undone upper shrouds, to reinforce entire tops construction and made them more reliable secured to the masthead? Actually rim of the tops shouldn't be loaded by topmast shrouds and teared off the place, for that forces of the topmast shrouds transfered to the mast shrouds by means of futtock shrouds which are pass trough the holes in the top... looking at your photo I see topmast shrouds but no fitted futtock shrouds...hm... this is not right way to rigg topmast shrouds, may be this provoked troubles which You expetienced? Keith Black 1 Quote Current Build: Spanish Galleon, Lee, 1:100 https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/6262-spanish-galleon-1607-by-kirill4-lee-plastic-1100/& https://karopka.ru/forum/forum190/topic10341/ Dutch 16-17 Arts Sailing Vessels in details https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/en/rijksstudio/1845326--kirill-shabanov/collections/arts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevinne Posted May 18 Author Share #97 Posted May 18 7 hours ago, kirill4 said: Good day, It is very sad to see this troubles with topmast platforms... lacky Younare still in that stage when a few jobs for reinforcement could be done with small looses , but not like this kind of trouble could happened when all rigging completed and sails installed as well... that will be a real serious trouble What I could guess, may be there is sence to undone upper shrouds, to reinforce entire tops construction and made them more reliable secured to the masthead? Actually rim of the tops shouldn't be loaded by topmast shrouds and teared off the place, for that forces of the topmast shrouds transfered to the mast shrouds by means of futtock shrouds which are pass trough the holes in the top... looking at your photo I see topmast shrouds but no fitted futtock shrouds...hm... this is not right way to rigg topmast shrouds, may be this provoked troubles which You expetienced? You're right about the futtock shrouds. My plan is to do the ratlines on the lower shrouds and then attach the futtocks. In retrospect, perhaps I should have completed the lower shrouds, ratted them and attached the futtocks before I moved on to the topmast. That would have prevented another issue I had with the topmast shrouds, which was the lower deadeyes twisting as I rigged the upper deadeyes. Oh well, live and learn. Keith Black 1 Quote Under construction: Mamoli Roter Lowe Completed builds: Constructo Enterprise, AL Le Renard Up next: Panart Lynx, MS Harriet Lane In need of attention: 14-foot Pintail in the driveway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirill4 Posted May 18 Share #98 Posted May 18 (edited) Good day Stevinne, Your plan sounds good! Don't forget to reinforce top construction, perhabs need to install some wooden or metal pins in some critical points to create reliable connection of top elements ? When I did my rigging, I don't remember issues with shrouds twisting, but I try to avoid as much as possible to create any tensions or load on shrouds and other standing rigging( due to plastic masts and spars of my model)... all were done with applying minimum "forces" if we could say that, moreover, as I mentioned early, do better to paint all threads You use for rigging befor use... it could be painted by mix of artistic oil paints deluted in tick oil and thinner or by acryl artistic paints of suitable colors... actualy we need two colors for our purposes, bright for running rigging and dark for standing... There is a receipt from one of high level modeller , how he paints his rope: "...for coloring white threads with artistic oil paints, you can dilute the composition in half a liter container, for example - a tube of paint is mixed with liquid oil - teak, for example (you can add more white spirit - to make the composition more liquid) Natural umber is used for standing rigging. On running, ocher is added to this paint. It is dyed by pulling a thread through a can or a poured puddle of paint. Then the thread is pulled several times through the cotton glove and hung out to dry. Can be used in a day. One of the Model of Dmitry Shevelev https://www.shipmodeling.ru/phpbb/viewtopic.php?p=370243#p370243 Before painting or even when threads were painted and still wet and hanging for drying, it could be loaded a little with weight of some steel bolts or nuts which will release internal tensions some times remains in thread ... that also will help to avoid twisting effect... All the Best!!! Kirill Ps There is sence to check which kind of thread used for shrouds - right or left hand made and how it passes around desdeyes - clockwise or counterclockwise direction when fitted? Details You could found in Anderson book. Edited May 18 by kirill4 Keith Black and Stevinne 2 Quote Current Build: Spanish Galleon, Lee, 1:100 https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/6262-spanish-galleon-1607-by-kirill4-lee-plastic-1100/& https://karopka.ru/forum/forum190/topic10341/ Dutch 16-17 Arts Sailing Vessels in details https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/en/rijksstudio/1845326--kirill-shabanov/collections/arts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baker Posted May 18 Share #99 Posted May 18 Saved by Kirill post 578, second time 😉 👍 Keith Black, kirill4 and Stevinne 3 Quote Regards, Patrick Finished : Soleil Royal Heller 1/100 Wasa Billing Boats Bounty Revell 1/110 plastic (semi scratch) Pelican / Golden Hind 1/45 scratch Current build : Mary Rose 1/50 scratch Gallery : Revell Bounty Pelican/Golden hind 1/45 scratch To do : Prins Willem Corel, Le Tonnant Corel, Yacht d'Oro Corel, Thermopylae Sergal Shore leave, non ship models build logs : ADGZ M35 funkwagen 1/72 Einhets Pkw. Kfz.2 and 4 1/72 Autoblinda AB40 1/72 122mm A-19 & 152mm ML-20 & 12.8cm Pak.44 {K8 1/2} 1/72 10.5cm Howitzer 16 on Mark. VI(e) Centurion Mk.1 conversion M29 Weasel 1/72 SAM6 1/72 T26 Finland T26 TN 1/72 Autoprotetto S37 1/72 Opel Blitz buses 1/72 Boxer and MAN trucks 1/72 Hetzer38(t) Starr 1/72 Si vis pacem, para bellum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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