Roter Lowe by Stevinne - Mamoli - 1:55 - Dutch-built Galleon

[Keith Black]

On 4/13/2024 at 8:45 PM, Stevinne said:

I got enough of these bad boys to hopefully last me a decade or so.

 I've not had good luck with those needle threader because the threader loop readily separates from the thumb portion plus the threader loop is rather short. I really like these pictured below, if Drake would like one to see how they work out tell em I'll send em one. 

 

 Nice work on the Lowe. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/Eketirry-threaders-Threader-Crafting-Knitting/dp/B09ZQJ3XJB/ref=sxin_16_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.679ca254-fe3a-4b5e-a742-a17f009c74a4%3Aamzn1.sym.679ca254-fe3a-4b5e-a742-a17f009c74a4&crid=3JJ455SJL6WFC&cv_ct_cx=needle%2Bthreaders&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.jOeYPNH5p1t-GEG7QKj_1VJ-pwdrEnAAp70tvcp-hm_FJVMGcl9ZWsvK2Ms9KDJ3WUQcGsVr2rt7GZzqpAKEKw.xyyBoCeouw0bR7mU9Svc3uTYE-QEVRSVcGrSZuSyfQ0&dib_tag=se&keywords=needle%2Bthreaders&pd_rd_i=B09ZQJ3XJB&pd_rd_r=41baf063-95bc-40e7-82c9-4d0a3906f85c&pd_rd_w=0wSPk&pd_rd_wg=8IpDo&pf_rd_p=679ca254-fe3a-4b5e-a742-a17f009c74a4&pf_rd_r=ACYFTZ52Q06HJV098X9M&qid=1715130095&s=home-garden&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=needle%2Bthreaders%2Cgarden%2C72&sr=1-3-364cf978-ce2a-480a-9bb0-bdb96faa0f61-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1  

[Stevinne]

21 hours ago, Keith Black said:

 I've not had good luck with those needle threader because the threader loop readily separates from the thumb portion plus the threader loop is rather short. I really like these pictured below, if Drake would like one to see how they work out tell em I'll send em one. 

 

 Nice work on the Lowe. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/Eketirry-threaders-Threader-Crafting-Knitting/dp/B09ZQJ3XJB/ref=sxin_16_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.679ca254-fe3a-4b5e-a742-a17f009c74a4%3Aamzn1.sym.679ca254-fe3a-4b5e-a742-a17f009c74a4&crid=3JJ455SJL6WFC&cv_ct_cx=needle%2Bthreaders&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.jOeYPNH5p1t-GEG7QKj_1VJ-pwdrEnAAp70tvcp-hm_FJVMGcl9ZWsvK2Ms9KDJ3WUQcGsVr2rt7GZzqpAKEKw.xyyBoCeouw0bR7mU9Svc3uTYE-QEVRSVcGrSZuSyfQ0&dib_tag=se&keywords=needle%2Bthreaders&pd_rd_i=B09ZQJ3XJB&pd_rd_r=41baf063-95bc-40e7-82c9-4d0a3906f85c&pd_rd_w=0wSPk&pd_rd_wg=8IpDo&pf_rd_p=679ca254-fe3a-4b5e-a742-a17f009c74a4&pf_rd_r=ACYFTZ52Q06HJV098X9M&qid=1715130095&s=home-garden&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=needle%2Bthreaders%2Cgarden%2C72&sr=1-3-364cf978-ce2a-480a-9bb0-bdb96faa0f61-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1  

I included one of those in my purchases, and I have to say I am so far impressed with how it works. Granted, I still have many more blocks and deadeyes to thread, but so far the little guy is performing like a champ and shows no sign of giving up the ghost.

 

[kirill4]

Good day,

#90

Main and main top stays probably should be arranged in a little bit different way...?

Lower loop of MS used to be secured to the upper part of the  stem or to the fore mast or to the bowsprit  and run on the right side of the mast as a rule, and MS tackles in form of pair of 5 holes deadeyes or 3 sheeves blocks need to be placed very close to the fore mast ...

main top stay used to be passed trough the lead block which is secured under the "mars"  or above it, in both caces  lead block stropped very close to the mast top, main topmast stay passes trough this lead block and runs to the deck and secured near the mast base...or main topmast stay could be secured to the fore mast top by means of tackle formed by deadeyes or pair of blocks... 

Ps

Standing and running rigging ropes are all of different diameters , there are a few exel tables free for download to calculate your own ropes size, when model has all ropes of the same size it doesn't look nice and right...

Edited May 8, 2024 by kirill4

[Stevinne]

I've been slogging through attaching shrouds and thought I was making progress. But, when I went to gather the foremast top shrouds, the top ring of the foremast top came loose, requiring some gluing and clamping. I'd been really careful when originally putting the top together to make sure everything lined up and looked good. Now I fear what things will look like when I remove the clamps.

[Stevinne]

On 5/8/2024 at 6:38 PM, kirill4 said:

Good day,

#90

Main and main top stays probably should be arranged in a little bit different way...?

Lower loop of MS used to be secured to the upper part of the  stem or to the fore mast or to the bowsprit  and run on the right side of the mast as a rule, and MS tackles in form of pair of 5 holes deadeyes or 3 sheeves blocks need to be placed very close to the fore mast ...

main top stay used to be passed trough the lead block which is secured under the "mars"  or above it, in both caces  lead block stropped very close to the mast top, main topmast stay passes trough this lead block and runs to the deck and secured near the mast base...or main topmast stay could be secured to the fore mast top by means of tackle formed by deadeyes or pair of blocks... 

Ps

Standing and running rigging ropes are all of different diameters , there are a few exel tables free for download to calculate your own ropes size, when model has all ropes of the same size it doesn't look nice and right...

Krill, I'd originally had the lower mainmast stay rigged as you describe, that is what is called for in the plans, but I was concerned because things were rubbing against the top of the focsle. I looked around for alternatives and found some Golden Hind build logs and copied their approach. The main top stay is rigged as per the plans, though having worked with these plans for many years, I increasingly find that to be little comfort. 

[kirill4]

Good day,

It is very sad to see this troubles with topmast platforms... lacky Younare still in that stage when a few jobs for reinforcement could be done with small looses , but not like this kind of trouble could happened when all rigging completed and sails installed as well... that will be a real serious trouble

What I could guess, may be there is sence to undone upper shrouds, to reinforce entire tops construction and made them more reliable secured to the masthead?

Actually rim of the tops shouldn't be loaded by topmast shrouds and teared off the place, for that forces of the topmast shrouds transfered to the mast shrouds by means of futtock shrouds which are pass trough the holes in the top... looking at your photo I see topmast shrouds but no fitted futtock shrouds...hm... this is not right way to rigg topmast shrouds, may be this provoked troubles which You expetienced?

 

[Stevinne]

7 hours ago, kirill4 said:

Good day,

It is very sad to see this troubles with topmast platforms... lacky Younare still in that stage when a few jobs for reinforcement could be done with small looses , but not like this kind of trouble could happened when all rigging completed and sails installed as well... that will be a real serious trouble

What I could guess, may be there is sence to undone upper shrouds, to reinforce entire tops construction and made them more reliable secured to the masthead?

Actually rim of the tops shouldn't be loaded by topmast shrouds and teared off the place, for that forces of the topmast shrouds transfered to the mast shrouds by means of futtock shrouds which are pass trough the holes in the top... looking at your photo I see topmast shrouds but no fitted futtock shrouds...hm... this is not right way to rigg topmast shrouds, may be this provoked troubles which You expetienced?

 

You're right about the futtock shrouds. My plan is to do the ratlines on the lower shrouds and then attach the futtocks. In retrospect, perhaps I should have completed the lower shrouds, ratted them and attached the futtocks before I moved on to the topmast. That would have prevented another issue I had with the topmast shrouds, which was the lower deadeyes twisting as I rigged the upper deadeyes. Oh well, live and learn.

[kirill4]

Good day Stevinne,

Your plan sounds good!

Don't forget to reinforce top construction, perhabs need to install some wooden or metal pins in some critical points to create reliable connection of top elements ?

When I did my rigging, I don't remember  issues with shrouds twisting, but I try to avoid as much as possible to create any tensions or load on shrouds and other standing rigging( due to plastic masts and spars of my model)... all were  done with applying minimum "forces" if we could say that, moreover, as I mentioned early, do better to paint all threads You use for rigging befor use... it could be painted by mix of artistic oil paints deluted in tick oil and thinner or by acryl artistic paints of suitable colors... actualy we need two colors for our purposes, bright for running rigging  and dark for standing...

There is a  receipt from one of high level modeller , how he paints his rope:

"...for coloring white threads with artistic oil paints, you can dilute the composition in half a liter container, for example - a tube of paint is mixed with liquid oil - teak, for example  (you can add more white spirit - to make the composition more liquid) Natural umber is used for standing rigging.  On running, ocher is added to this paint.
 It is dyed by pulling a thread through a can or a poured puddle of paint.  Then the thread is pulled several times through the cotton glove and hung out to dry.  Can be used in a day.

One of the Model of Dmitry Shevelev  https://www.shipmodeling.ru/phpbb/viewtopic.php?p=370243#p370243

Before painting or even when threads were painted and still wet and hanging for drying, it could be loaded a little with weight of some steel bolts or nuts which will release internal tensions some times remains in thread ... that also will help to avoid twisting effect...

All the Best!!!

Kirill

Ps 

There is sence to check which kind of  thread used for shrouds - right or left hand made and how it passes around desdeyes - clockwise or counterclockwise direction when fitted? 

Details You could found in Anderson book.

 

Edited May 18, 2024 by kirill4

[Baker]

Saved by Kirill post 578, second time 😉 👍

 

[Stevinne]

It's been a while since I've posted, but I have been at work, slogging through attaching the ratlines. This is my first galleon build, and this ship has six shrouds on the lower foremast and seven on the mainmast. That compares to four on each for my Constructo Enterprise and Le Reynard cutter - so lots more tying of very small knots. Once I was done, I painted the whole assembly with diluted carpenter's glue to help keep the knots together. Futtock shrouds are next. 

[Stevinne]

I haven't had much time to work on the ship for the past couple of weeks. The pressgang brought aboard a new shipmate. She's still a grass-combing lubber who can't hand, reef or steer and requires a lot of attention and our free time, but she's fast as a whip and will surely play havoc with the bread room rats (and the squirrels outside, though she's not really much larger).

Edited July 20, 2024 by Stevinne

[Keith Black]

 That's a face full of curiosity right there. Cute little mutt, does she sleep snuggled up? 

[Stevinne]

On 7/20/2024 at 3:33 PM, Keith Black said:

 That's a face full of curiosity right there. Cute little mutt, does she sleep snuggled up? 

Yes. She has a small bed and is the first dog we've had that actually enjoys sleeping in a bed. She ties herself in a tight knot and likes having a padded wall she can rest against. Lucky for us, she also seems smart and was able to pick up house training in just a few days.

[Stevinne]

The last couple of months have been difficult to dedicate to the hobby. With me working from home, Rainy has gotten accustomed to sleeping most of the work day, since I've made it pretty clear I can only play for an hour or so around lunch. But, she is ready to run after 5 p.m. and I feel like she's earned the attention. She is a high-energy dog, so most nights involve tossing toys until at least 9. My wife says I'm nuts, but my last dog - whom I adored - only lived 'til she was 14. Time with them is so short, I think it is important to enjoy it while you can - and I really enjoy having a smart, engaged dog around the house.

It rained like heck today, so I took the time to clean up the stern in anticipation of mounting the Brandenburg coat of arms. Back in December I tapered the yards and stained them black - so we are getting close to completion. With Spring garden planting delayed by the cold weather, I think the next couple of weeks are going to be tough to find the time, but I really want to get this done.

[Stevinne]

Over the last couple of days, I have also worked on the gunport lids. They come as a pre-cut piece of ply wood and the instructions call for them to be covered by thin pieces of wood laminate, same as the second course of hull planking.

This kit has been a headache from the start, and the gunports are a good example, as the pre-cut wood are of an odd shape, so none of the 0.5mm planking actually fits. Two pieces are too few and three pieces are too many. 

Several of the white-metal hinges also came broken into two pieces, though I was happy to see they included one extra hinge, in case I lost one or couldn't salvage the broken pieces they'd provided. 

Overall, though, my impression of the materials has been that they are pretty shoddy.

Everything about this kit seems to be like that, and it is frustrating. 

The ship's boat has caused me headaches. It is cast metal with spots to add wooden benches to dress it up. It also it looks like I should add a strake of real wood to finish it off, but each time I try I can't get the wood and metal to line up and adhere properly. Just another headache that makes the kit less fun then it should be. I'm thinking I'll just spend the money and get one of those mini plank-on-frame ship's boat kits from Model Expo to replace it.

I bought this kit from Model Expo shortly before Mamoli went under (though I didn't know what was going on at the time), so I hope that things have gotten better now that Dusek is handling legacy Mamoli kits. The quality of the wood and the overall quality of the kit makes me think (or at least hope) that the soon-to-be-out-of-work Mamoli staff were throwing whatever it is they had on hand into a box before they walked out the door.    

Edited 21 hours ago by Stevinne

[Stevinne]

Anchors, with the bands made by painting masking tape with Tamiya gunmetal paint. Neither cross piece fit as originally provided. If you look closely at the cross piece in the rear, you can see the join where the piece broke as I was carefully using my round mini-file to try to enlarge the opening and get it to fit. Again, I was wondering why these things seem designed to frustrate. 

Edited 21 hours ago by Stevinne

[mrcc]

Great job, nonetheless…

 

Mamoli kits of old were such but they always seem to build out to a nice finished state.

 

Good luck!