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Posted

In many/most cases the easiest way is to follow (within limits) the prototype way. These guys knew what they were doing.

 

There is a small problem on the above example: the hinges on the rudder are too far out, the axis of the rudder should be just somewhat inside the front (leading) edge. The notches in the rudder are there to allow the shipping/unshipping of the rudder.

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
Posted

I usually use masking tape to temporarily hold the rudder in place while I mark out the hinge positions.

Clamp a strip to the bottom of the false keel to keep the rudder at the correct height.

The notches are twice the width of the hinges, And the hinge, should be installed so the hinge pins are recessed in the notches.

This means there is not so much a large gap between the stern post and the rudder leading edge. Hope this helps.

Regards, Scott

 

Current build: 1:75 Friesland, Mamoli

 

Completed builds:

1:64 Rattlesnake, Mamoli  -  1:64 HMS Bounty, Mamoli  -  1:54 Adventure, Amati  -  1:80 King of the Mississippi, AL

1:64 Blue Shadow, Mamoli  -  1:64 Leida Dutch pleasure boat, Corel  -  1:60 HMS President Mantra, Sergal

 

Awaiting construction:

1:89 Hermione La Fayette AL  -  1:48 Perserverance, Modelers shipyard

Posted

Thomas,

 

I think by prototype, Wefalck means  the way it was done in the shipyard back in the day.   The attached sketch shows a hinge and rudder on the left that is close to what  was commonly used on the actual ships (based on a drawing from Goodwin's Sailing Man of War) versus the design from your kit on the right  I could not see all the details from your photo so I may be off a bit on the sketch and I apologize for that.

 

Allan

post-42-0-78120200-1481111375.jpg

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Posted

To clarify Allan's sketches: the pin of the pintle is set in line with the forward edge of the rudder and the strap inset, so that the fore edge is a straight uninterrupted line. The fore edge is also bevelled off to each side (not shown) so that the rudder can rotate against the stern post. The idea is to eliminate any gap between rudder and post.

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

Posted (edited)

Thanks Druxey

 

The bevel (and later, rounding)  on the forward face of the rudder is an important feature and appears to go unmentioned in   kits.  I have edited the sketch and added the line indicating the bevel.   I also adjusted where the hinges actually are installed on the model.   My fault for rushing  the first sketch.  

 

Allan

post-42-0-75451100-1481219109.jpg

Edited by allanyed

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Posted

the better way isn't to look at the real "le renard" there a lot of picture about it on the web ,and  mrsmoogler who were one of  the sailor on board have edited a lot about  the building.

here is the link:

http://modelisme-naval-bois.lebonforum.com/t566-chantier-de-construction-du-cotre-le-renard?highlight=le+renard

Of the bank I look at an ocean of pleasure, or the tumult attracts you, this global movement will be your tipcart!

 

 

 

current build:   royal caroline

 

buid finished:  la recouvrancehttp://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3025-la-recouvrance-by-ofencer29350/page-2?hl=recouvrance

Posted

Those drawings help make sense.  The problem i was having was sliping the bracket over the barrel in the nook, even after I enlarged it.  Having that angled access would make it easier.  

Current build: Le Renard

 

Last build: HMS Bounty Jolly Boat

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