HMS Victory by portchieboy - Caldercraft - scale 1:72

[portchieboy]

I started this model apparently as far back as 2011, built it for a couple of years then mothballed it until just recently. I am now retired, so can dedicate some serious time to it.

 

It is only my second model (after Royal Caroline), so I am still learning. That is where these forums are so wonderful. I shall be picking a lot of brains over the coming time, but I am in no rush. I am awed by the quality seen fromour fellow modellers,and if I can achieve 75% of the same quality, I will be well pleased.

 

So, as you see, I am currently building up the inner and outer planking on the fo'c'sle and the quarterdeck. 

 

I do have a couple of questions if I may.

 

Firstly, the main quarter gallery. OK it was some years ago, but to my knowledge this was built as per instruction. It does look however as though there is a lot of 'flat sheet' jutting out the sides of the stern quarter gallery.  If I look in isolation at Photo 037 on page 39, it does show a certain excess, painted black on the top left. Still, doesn't seem right somehow.

 

Second, having glued on the beakhead bulkhead, it does seem to have a fairly large lip above the Focsle deck. Again....may be right?

 

Thanks all, looking forward to the continuing adventure.

[rsposito]

Wow! Beautiful work!

[paulb]

Looks good. I like the coppering with the 1/3 overlap.

 

Firstly, the main quarter gallery seems perfect. After fitting the gallery decorations there will be less excess, but still, there will be some, which is fine

 

Second, the beakhead bulkhead, also seems OK.

 

Can I make one general suggestion: I would give everything a finish of matt PU transparent varnish. It will give the ship a less shiny, more quiet character. But this is just my personal opinion.

 

Regards, Paul

[EJ_L]

What you have done so far looks very nice and well done. I would agree with Paul on giving her a matt finish to eliminate the shine of the glossy paints but again that is personal preference.

 

As to the appearance on the quarter galleys and beakhead bulkhead, often times things will look disproportionate while the decorations are off, especially on a heavily decorated ship. Once installed along with the railings and trim pieces things will start to look right. As long as your measurements for the spaces are correct it will all work out. 

 

I'm looking forward to seeing her progress.

[Shipyard sid]

Greetings

Well this is looking really good, yep excellent work. Just keep enjoying it. As for the jutting out, as you call it, EJ_L has hit the nail on the head. Once the brass profile and brass patterns are fitted it will be OK. Here is a photo of jokitas build with the profile and patterns fitted . Best regards DAVID

Edited December 14, 2016 by Shipyard sid

[portchieboy]

Help with build order please

 

I am currently working on the Quarterdeck and Forecastle, page 21, but thinking ahead. The instructions are generally building 'up', but we still have the rudder and Stern Fascia to look forward to. It strkes me that it would make more sense, certainly to deal with the rudder, and the stern part of the hull under the fascia?

 

Would any current/past builders be able to advise if I can safely change the order with no nasty surprises please?

 

Thanks

[Shipyard sid]

Hello

I left my rudder until all the deck work was completed. You are in no hurry at all to fit the rudder. I completed all the deckwork then the quarter gallery's and stern fascia, then the rudder. I then fitted the gunport lids and all the work around the hull. It is possible you could knock the rudder off while you are doing deck work, so why have fitted so early. It is your choice, but my advice is do not fit anything around the hull of the ship which is vulnerable or not nessesary, until all the deckwork is completed. Just take your time and enjoy it. DAVID

Edited January 3, 2017 by Shipyard sid

[portchieboy]

OK, so moving on.....

 

Presume it's not me, but as the pre lasered parts get smaller, the cut quality falls, and the pieces get really delicate. I found that to build thse parts, I had to layer the small parts with superglue first, then sand, smooth etc!

 

Upwards and onwards.

[EJ_L]

That is a common problem with working with small wooden parts. See how your grain is running the short way across the top of the bracing. Wood most easily splits along the grain and so it does not take much effort to cause the part to break. This can and does happen regardless of if they are laser cut or saw cut. This is why choosing the right type of wood for the job is important especially for tiny details. Still, you recovered those pieces well and the completed railing and ships bell look great! 

[ca.shipwright]

I don't know which viscosity of CA you are using to harden wood. I would recommend using the ultra thin as it will penetrate the wood much better and make it like metal. The thicker glues tend to stay on the surface. I also find myself making the parts that will be visible and need carving out of boxwood which holds an edge very well and has no fuzziness.

 

The clean lines of your painting are to be envied as is your copper plating. I look forward to following your build.

 

I have the Panart 1/72 Victory on the ways but the shipyard is on strike as the HMB Endeavour continues.

 

Regards

[portchieboy]

Thanks guys. Yes, it is a medium CA, so I'll get some thin.....good point. Thanks for the comments, I do's me best.

 

Good luck with your own builds...interesting to hear you have strikes in US too!

[portchieboy]

Can I ask for some help please......

I have come to page 30, The Bows, and the 3rd paragraph is making no sense whatsoever!!!

The issue is with pieces 395, Bow main rail inner timberhead, I really have no idea where and how these 4 pieces fit. Also, piece 394, as part of the same problem.  Can I see a close up please of someones completed Bow. I will post some piccies shortly, not really too proud of the rails etc, but have done as good as I am able

 

Cheers all

 

 

[portchieboy]

Hi, and Merry Xmas fellow model makers.

 

I am really rubbish at taking info from great forums like this, and not reciprocating, so New Years resolution is to keep my log up to date. I guess I have been building the ship now for 7 or 8 years. Started off when I was working, now retired, and largely a winter hobby. I am now at last to the Yards and Spars, then the dreaded rigging to come! On that note, I have just picked up more supplies from my local store (Fratton Model Shop, Portsmouth), and they tell me that the latest research is showing that the models have the rigging wrong, being a Victorian throwback. Thoughts are that the 'Battle' rigging was quite different. Hmmmm, have to think about that one.

 

I have just thrown down a selection of current pics, showing the build to date. Also, the books I use for reference. Have shown my altered version of a model lathe for the thicker masts, though now I am finding just my normal drill chuck does the job nicely. Finally, the first Yard, Spritsail, see how that looks to you experts.

 

If my build looks ok, I am happy to answer any questions if anyone is struggling. I am not the best in the world, but guess 8 years must count for something. 

 

Have a great New Year all.

 

Mike

[Shipyard sid]

Greetings max 

                  It’s good to see you about again. You are doing really well, it’s coming on a treat. Looks kike you had no problem with the masts, and going to find the spars pretty easy. Are you still unsure about the rigging ?  I keep saying this, but I found the rigging one of the best parts of the build. Just keep enjoying it. Get plenty of rope coils around the deck and belaying points now, as you will not be able to access some of these areas later when your running rigging gets in the way. 

      Best regards DAVID

[portchieboy]

 Getting on now that Xmas is over. Quite enjoying the yards and spars, and thanks for the tip about the rope coils. That is filed away ready. 

For the masts, I used an adapted model lathe, but the spars being too thin find that inserting the dowel into a power drill chuck works very well.

 

[portchieboy]

Hey Wallace. Welcome to pull alongside anytime!

 

I am a bit lazy with my posts, but will try and get more regular, though being rigging won't be 'riveting', as it were.

 

This may be of help...https://goo.gl/photos/Tfzb86GvG98i6qCD9

 

I live near Victory, and in 2009, before they took the masts off, had a full tour of the ship.

 

Speak soon.

 

Mike.

[Kevin]

Good evening Mike, i just popped over to see how you are getting along, have you tried to pins the spars into position, it makes life so much easier, so that when it comes to truss pendants and jeers and parrels it is easier to get the tension right, i wont spoil your log with photos but will post on mine is you so wish,

[portchieboy]

Thanks. I would appreciate a picture of just how you pin the spars without damage. 

 

Mike

[Kevin]

9 hours ago, portchieboy said:

Thanks. I would appreciate a picture of just how you pin the spars without damage. 

 

Mike

thats all i did, 0.3mm hole into the mast and a pin in the spar, its certainly help, and once the yard is secued it isnt seen