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Posted

Hi guys,

 

Just a small query for those with experience using these two products.

I am contemplating on treating my wooden fittings/ railings/ mouldings with either of these products prior to gluing them to my ship's hull but would first like to inquire if this carries the risk of producing a weaker bond between the glued parts.  I am using PVA  and CA glues. Thanks in advance for the help :)

Best regards,

Aldo

Currently Building:
HMS Pegasus (Victory Models)-Mothballed to give priority to Triton

 

HMS Triton (first attempt at scratchbuilding)

 

 


Past build:
HM Brig Badger (Caldercraft), HM Brig Cruizer, HM Schooner Ballahoo

Posted

Hey Aldo,

     Yes they do effect the bonding of 2 pieces of wood. It's best to glue where you can before you add any type of finish(even wood stain) IMO. Where you can't , finish it then just sand where the 2 pieces of wood meet and you should get a very good bond. Hope this helps buddy.

 

take care

Thank You all...

 

Mario

 

 

:piratetongueor4:  :piratetongueor4:

"Each of us is a mixture of some good and some not so good qualities. In considering one's fellow man it's important to remember the good things ... We should refrain from making judgments just because a fella happens to be a dirty, rotten SOB(biscuit) ;) "

 

 

 

My Builds....

 

BETTEAU WAR OF 1812     BOUNTY LAUNCH(bashed)    CHESAPEAKE BAY FLATTIE

 

THE SEA of GALILEE BOAT   VICTORIAN STEAM LAUNCH(bashed)    HOWARD CHAPELLE's CRABBING SKIFF

 

LADY KATHRINE 1812 SCHOONER

Posted (edited)

Agree with Mario.  However, if you can't sand the area because it's too small or inaccessible, carefully poke some small pinholes there.  This will help the glue penetrate and greatly improve adhesion.

Edited by Augie

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Ahoy Aldo

 

You can also use an epoxy. It will provide a superior bond which is especially important for the smaller parts you mentioned

 On with the Show.... B) 

 

  J.Pett

 

“If you're going through hell, keep going” (Winston Churchill)

 

Current build:  MS Rattlesnake (MS2028)

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/45-model-shipways-rattlesnake-ms2028-scale-164th/

 

Side Build: HMS Victory: Corel

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3709-hms-victory-by-jpett-corel-198/?p=104762

 

On the back burner:  1949 Chris Craft Racer: Dumas

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/939-1949-chris-craft-racer-by-jpett-dumas-kit-no-1702/

 

Sometime, but not sure when: Frigate Berlin: Corel

http://www.corel-srl.it/pdf/berlin.pdf

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

Posted

I agree with a lot that was said above. But when you think about Tung Oil, for example, it is an oil and would not be too good for adhesion with PVA. Epoxy might do it for you, but why not consider a water-based finish? I have used water-based polyurethane for years and even glued parts together with that coating (after a light sanding) using carpenter's glue (not white glue).

 

JPett mentioned General Finishes as a good manufacturer. And indeed they have all sorts of good products including the water based versions I mentioned. Check 

http://www.generalfinishes.com/retail-products/water-base-top-coats-sanding-sealers/high-performance-polyurethane-topcoat#.UY78raKsiSo

 

 

 

 

Jay

 

Current build Cross Section USS Constitution  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10120-cross-section-forward-area-of-the-uss-constitution/

Finished USS Constitution:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/103-uss-constitution-by-modeler12/

 

'A picture is worth a  . . . . .'      More is better . . . .

Posted

Ive used 100 percent Tung Oil effectively - all you need to do is sand the area you want to glue lightly.  Then PVA should do the trick.  Once dry you can re apply the tung.  I did this to positive effect on my Confederacy, when i needed to sand areas on the interior bulwarks to glue the pin rails.  

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Adhesives (Glues) bond in two ways: chemically and mechanically. A rough surface provides a good surface for mechanical bonding. Chemical bonding depends on the chemistry of the surfaces to be bonded as well as the chemistry of the adhesive. I read the labels of my adhesives to determine what materials they can and can't bond. I try to keep surfaces that I am bonding free of paint or sealers as much as possible. I find this usually allows me to achieve sufficeint bond strength with the proper adhesive. Hope this helps

Jaxboat

Posted

I agree with a lot that was said above. But when you think about Tung Oil, for example, it is an oil and would not be too good for adhesion with PVA. 

Interestingly, I've found that with Tung Oil, I've been able to use PVA but not CA.

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    Hs129B-2 1/48  SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32   IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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