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I'm building the Bluenose kit by Model Shipways.  I've recently completed the rabbet, tapering of the stern and stem.  Pretty soon it will be time to install the bulkheads.  While looking at the plans and test fitting the bulkheads to the slots in the keel, I've noticed a couple of things:


1. Some of the bulkheads don't extend down to the bearding line that marks the upper edge of the rabbet.  Here's a shot of bulkheads K, L and M.  The middle bulkhead (L) in this image is the least offender.




I would think this is a problem because it will interrupt the curved profile of the planking.  Is there a best practice in this scenario?  I've considered scratch building replacements for the bulkheads that are undersized.  Another member who is also building this kit used wood putty to sculpt in some filler at the very bottom, but I'm less confident in my ability to get a good result with that method.


2. The plans also depict each bulkhead with a second edge line drawn just inside the true edge.




The second line marks the forward edge after faring, whereas the outermost line marks the aft edge which in theory receives almost no faring I suppose.  I'm curious if I should trust the lines depicting where the fared edge should fall after sanding.  If so, would it be worthwhile transferring the forward fared edge line from the plans to each bulkhead and then trying to do some preliminary faring before attaching it to the keel?  Or would I be better off installing all the bulkheads and doing all faring after all bulkheads are installed?

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W4LKR this seems to be a recurring problem on many kit models. I have kept the sub floor of the bulkheads and the false keel in the correct plane to not complicate the hull shape. I then add material to the outer portion of the bulkheads to enable matching up to the rabbet line. It is then a matter of fairing the hull through sanding using a batten sighting procedure to bring the hull fair.


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Did I imagine this?  I think when I was first exposed to POB - from a book by Lusci - the mould outer face was perpendicular rather than beveled.  The first layer of planking was supposed to only rest on the edge farthest from the center.  It was supposed to provide an accurate shape and not be a pseudo frame timber and is too narrow for that anyway.

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Its is correct practice to fair the BHs so that the planking strips make maximum contact with the BHs.

If you do not then you simply CANNOT get the hull right  because the wrong sides of the BHs fore and aft would define the shape.


 Usually the middle BHs do not need specific fairing but the forrad and aft one need a lot and I mean a LOT - in general one usually finds that you tend to underestimate how much.


There is an idiots guide though - mark with a pen or something about a mm on the aft edge of the forrard BHs and the forrard edge of the aft ones  and DO NOT sand the line off.

An example from  my pickle https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/8650-hm-schooner-pickle-by-spyglass-caldercraft-164-scale/&do=findComment&comment=269947


and there are some illustrations of my level of fairing on  the Pegasus log which may help


My practice is always to ensure the DECK levels are correct.  The lower edges usually then  sort as you fair.  And i usually do  bit of fairing off-build before fixing the BHs - you can use a planking strip to get an idea of how much needs taking off - need to be a bit careful beacuse the BHs usually move a bit.

Another hint on fairing - I never fit the stem, stern and keel additions before fairing  - it  makes it so much easier and reduces damage - you can see from my reference how I use temporary dowels


I am not familiar with your kit I dont know if it is their wording but there is confusion between the bearding line and the rabbet.  Not quite the same thing

Edited by SpyGlass
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I'll add a suggestion to Spyglass's solution.   Use a foam filled sanding tool like a disposable nail fail (but cut it short so it only hits maybe 3 BH's at once) to go over several frames at once.  Slow and easy and if you get one frame finished first, move the sanding tool.  Check frequently with a piece of scrap wood planking.  

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