Enterprise 1799 by Rowboat - FINISHED - Constructo - Scale 1:51

[Rowboat]

@maniac,

What questions do you have?

 

@ccoyle,

Thanks Chris,

I definitely like the 3 different colors on the ship. At that phase where I can stain them. I bought some shellac spray that I plan on trying out.

[Rowboat]

Work continues, slowly ...

 

Built the chain plates and deadeyes but did not glue them down.

recommendations is to wait till the shr

ouds are attached.

 

Fairly easy work, main thing is to keep the center hole at the lowest level.

Cut the excess wire and added some steps on the hull.

Added a bunch of pin rails to the inside of the model.

Doing busy work building deck features.

Not to difficult, just ran out of grating so there's that.

 

Did not like my first attempt at the beak heads.

The first attempt ended with one side being larger than the other.

Also they were to big and I had to angle them so as not to cover the anchor holes.

Here's the first attempt.

Cut out the beakheads and the new ones look much better to me.

Made a jig out of wood for the curved piece.

First I used a piece of wire to get the curve, then transferred the curve to a wood block, cut the curve out using a jig saw making 2 pieces and finally put in some wet wood and clamped the jig together.

Will continue on more deck features this coming week...

 

Have a good day and stay safe.

 

Rowboat out.

 

[Rowboat]

About to start rigging some 4mm 1 hole blocks.

The manual shows .25mm copper wire (could be brass I suppose) that wraps around the block.

 

The wire I received is .50mm non-copper.

This is to thick to wrap the 4mm blocks.

 

Where can I purchase .25mm soft wire, copper or not?

 

I found some on eBay from Constructo but shipping is about $25 US dollars for a $4 item. Plus shipping is “estimated” over a month from now. 

[ccoyle]

I assume that your kit calls for stropping the blocks with wire? You have a couple of options. The first is to acquire some blackened annealed wire, which is available in very small diameters from industrial suppliers; it is also sometimes available in craft stores -- look in the jewelry section, where it is sold with beading supplies.

 

Second option is to ditch the wire entirely, since it doesn't replicate actual practice. You can use an appropriate diameter of thread to do the job.

[Rowboat]

Found the following, it's .20mm but should work fine... and it's brass not copper.

[Rowboat]

@ccoyle ,

Did not know that using wire to strope the blocks was not replicating actual practice.

Spent the time and found this, https://www.duckworksmagazine.com/02/articles/woodenblocks/woodenblocks.htm  .

 

So now I know ... and I thought my learn'in days were over 😅

[ccoyle]

Yes, typically ships of the era that you are modeling used rope-stropped blocks. Iron stropping came later, followed by internal stropping. Syren Ship Models, in fact, makes some very nice internally stropped blocks. BTW, your wire stropping looks nice.

[Rowboat]

Looks like in my excitement I used the 5mm blocks with the 5mm wire. Guess that's why it fit so well. 

 

I did attempt to wrap the 4mm blocks with the 5mm wire, broke all of them.

The 5mm blocks are 3.5mm wide and the 4mm blocks are 2.5mm wide. 

 

In the pics below the broken blocks are on the left.

 

I did order this 30 gauge wire which is about 26mm. Waiting for it to arrive. 

[Rowboat]

Started working on the cannon carriage design.

Here's the beta version.

 

Here is the beta viewing of my cannon build. I will put the original kit (left) picture along with what I'm working on (right).









After purchasing a few cannon kits I figured out how to solve my dislike, brass wheels and less robust cannon carriage.

Turns out the kit that came with the model has a thickness of 1.9mm and my beta model uses 2.3mm.
The difference is barely noticeable for one piece of wood as shown here.


However, when the entire carriage is built that extra .4mm, per piece of wood, makes the carriage robust looking. Is it to scale , not sure but it's what I like.


I built the base, sides, axles, wedge that helps raise/lower the cannon angle. I pulled the wheels from 2 different cannon kits. The cannon is from the original kit. The axles are approximately 1.7mm diameter. The front wheels are 8mm and the back are 5mm. The sides are 22.4mm in length and 9.5mm tall.

Took a number tries to find the right thickness of the wood. Ended up planing down 6mm to 2.3mm poplar wood.

Not quite done with the design.......

-- Rowboat

 

 

[Rowboat]

A closer look at the work.

 

 

[Rowboat]

Making of the cannon carriages.

Milled a piece of popular to 2.3mmX6mm.

 

Mapped out the carriage sides and bases....

 

Cut on the table top ban saw/jig saw.

I numbered the pairs as I sanded and squared each pair so they matched.

Otherwise, a number 12 right side may not match a number 9 left side.

 

 

Glued the pieces together

 

For the axle and cannon arm cutouts I ran these over the table saw using a 1mm blade, extruding about 1mm.

 

 

Measured and cut square balsa axles, 1.5mm X 1.5mm

 

 

 

Rounded the edges of the axles to fit the front wheels.

 

Here's the test fitting without the rear wheels

 

 

I don't have the rear wheels yet so we are at a stopping point.

 

More to come in following posts........

 

Rowboat out

 

[Rowboat]

Some progress on the poop deck.

Here I needed to add two blocks to the rear of the poop deck.

These blocks would connect to the main mast aft-spanker.

 

If I just glued the blocks in place and later tried to rig them , it would be very difficult to work with them.

Try doing this when the block is attached to the deck.

 

So, I decided to temporarily put up the main mast and attach the aft-spanker.

 

Now I could complete the rigging, leaving it in place till I actually needed it.

 

After rigging this to the correct size I removed the main mast and aft-spanker.

Taped the rigging to the back of the stern to be used at the appropriate time.

 

The look of the "stropped" blocks using the brass wire is not that appealing to me, maybe because of the close up pics ... maybe not.

I am looking into other alternatives for "stropping" the blocks.

 

The lesson for the day is now over....

 

[ccoyle]

You are making fine progress with a kit that provides some dubious materials. The cannon carriages are definitely an upgrade.

 

Cheers!

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Like the cannon carriages.

Extras like these turn a kit build into something special.

 

Sam

[Rowboat]

@ccoyle, @ sideways sam,

 

Appreciate the comments.

I am glad I took the time to learn what cannon options were available and then investigate on how to make them.

The changes to the carriages will definitely  enhance the look of the ship.

It does take some time though but I need to learn not to rush these things.

 

The smaller back wheels arrived and test fitting went well.

I haven't glued anything yet as I want to make all the hardware and attach to the carriage before putting on the wheels.

I think this way is easier then trying to work around the wheels and axles.

 

Spending the time right now deciding on how best to strope the blocks.

My first attempt did not look appealing to me.

 

So, I'm investigating with different wire gauges ( .5mm, .75mm, 1mm), wire color (brass, black, copper, steel) as well as various rope sizes.

 

More to come in the post.

 

Rowboat out....

 

[Rowboat]

Back wheels arrived 😀.

Here's the kits cannon .......

 

.... and here's what I ended up with.

 

How I got here.

Tries various rope sizes and ended up using 0.45mm for the block and tackle.

 

 

 

For the rope that wraps the cannon I wanted a beefier look so went with 0.88mm rope.

I would have preferred 0.78 but that wasn't a choice.

 

 

My first attempt (on the right) I wrapped the rope incorrectly and it does not follow the grooves in double block holes (or the single block). The one on the left is the look I wanted.

 

Here's some close up pics of the cannon on the ship.

My carriage cuts look ragged but I think it adds a bit of realism.  Imagine this cannon after being used over and over in battles with pirates, smugglers, and enemies, oh my!

 

 

The piece of rope leading from the block and tackle I intend to curl up on the deck.

Not doing this with most of the cannons but wanted to try with a few.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here I added the brass coverings over the barrel axles.

Haven't decided if I want to paint them black.

 

 

 

Well, that's about it. My first cannon build 😁.

 

Rowboat out.

[Rowboat]

The cannons are mounted on the ship 😄!

It has been quite an experience, mounting was only slightly less difficult than building the cannons.

Decided to "frap" one side of the ropes that wrap around each cannon to secure it on deck. Originally I had just put a loop around and eyelet piece on the hull.

This is how the manual shows it, using the frapping technique.

 

Used CA glue to hold the eyelets to the hull. Seems to work so far.

Here are some pics of the completed work.

 

 

Some of the ropes are not hanging correctly, something I'll address later.

Overall I'm very pleased, thanks for all those who offered suggestions and to those whose build logs I've been using to improve my build.

Friends who have seen the ship are amazed at the work, and it's not even finished !

 

 

 

From this view the poop deck rigging (below) now looks "weak" to me.

Initially when I first built the rigging I was quite happy with it. Now though, it seems lackluster to me.

How did that happen? I was perfectly content with the poop deck rigging.

 

I'll take a hard look at it before changing anything.

Any thoughts on the rigging?

 

Now that the deck is starting to fill up some of my concerns earlier on the deck planking are fading away.

Issues with nail holes, plank line marks and stuff I complained about earlier in this build log.

 

 

For builders interested, drilling the holes in the hull for the eyelets requires a steady hand.

A few times I ended up going right through the hull. The holes are small so hardly noticeable.

There's less than 4mm to drill into, if even that in some places due to sanding the planks earlier in the build.

 

Funny thing, while writing this I did notice a small hole under the last aft cannon.

Turns out I had a small piece of lint on the laptop screen, wiped it away and the hole is gone ..... magic 🤭

 

 

 

Some up close images of the cannons ... probably to up close 🙄.

For those with a keen eye, you may have noticed I have 2 different colored ropes used on the cannons.

Started with the tan color and ran out after doing half the cannons.

Had some of the dark color that I previously ordered and used that.

I rotated the colors so there will be tan, black,tan,black,etc....

 

 

 

Still haven't decided if I want to paint the hinges for the cannon axle.

 

Open to suggestions .....

 

 

Have a great day, Rowboat out.

[Rowboat]

Getting to this point in the build, basically the hull and deck finished, I felt a need to step away from the project.

It has been a challenge getting to this point and once I got the cannons secured I felt relieved.

 

Working on other things, bathroom remodel and back yard remodel.

 

Good time for taking a break as coming soon is the rigging and sails.

 

Last time I did that, well there was only 1 other time, it was quite an experiment.

 

Try to get something going soon.

 

[ccoyle]

Good luck on your remodels!  I always tell people that I hate do-it-yourself work because after I've completed it, it looks like I did it myself. 🙄

[Rowboat]

Taking a break from remodeling.

 

About to take on the rigging and have a question.

How to tie the dead eyes together.

 

Done some research and some examples show starting with tying a knot on the first hole, then thread through the other two holes.

But not sure how they tie off the end piece. One example talked about frapping or wrapping the end piece.

 

My thinking was to run the thread through all the holes and then tie the two end pieces togehter ( that is, tie the knot to the end piece).

 

Maybe someone knows a build log where they explain this a little better.

 

I'll keep looking in the mean time.

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Top left hand deadeye starts with a knot then just follow the sketches to the right.

From outside of the hull the three vertical lines should be parallel.

I have also seen this done in reverse  -  starting with the right hand hole then top centre then bottom left.

Either way you finish with half hitches around the shroud.

 

Hope this helps,

Sam.

[Rowboat]

Thanks Sideways Sam, exactly what I needed.

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

You're welcome.

Forgot to mention  -  when you have tensioned the lanyard apply superglue (with a toothpick)

to the rear of the bottom deadeye at the last hole filled.  This will keep everything where you need it to be

while you finish the tie off.    Keeps the lanyard between the deadeyes taut.

Take the lanyard up the rear to the top dead eye and pass it through the small gap between the deadeye and the shroud

fixing around the deadeye (from inboard to outboard).  Then tie it off to the shroud above the deadeye.

 

Sam

[Rowboat]

Managing to get some work done on the bowspirit as the air quality makes working in the backyard inadvisable.

 

Once that is done I believe the foremast is next.

Here's my pondering, do I work on the mast(s) off ship or on ship?

 

I've read suggestions that say to make a jig for the mast(s) to work on as it will be easier.

 

Any thoughts on this?

 

[Rowboat]

Here's the latest on the build.

 

First, I mounted the anchor.

Nothing to challenging.

 

 

 

In the below picture one can see that the tackle block is secured to the cathead with a knot. This is different from the instructions in the manual which secures the line to an eyebolt. Just another difference between the various Enterprise 1799 models.

 

 

Next up will be the first mast, the bow spirit.

[Rowboat]

Putting on the bowspirit was slightly more complicated than the anchors.

I first put on the last 2 deadeyes.

 

Then I had to trim the end of the mast to fit within the fife rails.

In retrospect I should have have just rebuilt the rail. Mark that down as being to lazy.

 

Although it looks well placed in the pic below, later I find out that the mast does not lie straight. So I end up fiddling with the pieces to get a straight lie. Again, would have saved time if I just rebuilt the fife rail.

 

Next post, bowspirit rigging.....

[Rowboat]

I noticed in the manual and on some online pictures that a hook is used to attach to eyebolts.

 

Not having any I decided to make my own.

 

I'm using .81mm wire.
Here's the end product..

 

.. and here's how I got there....

Used some wire wrapping pliers to get the initial hook bend.

 

Made as tight a bend as I could.

 

Hammered on the end hook piece till it flatten.

 

Then cut the hook end at a slight angle, making it pointed. Then used the wire twisting tool to form the bottom loop.

 

Trimmed off the excess wire and filed the hook, done

 

Here's a pic of it in use.

 

I try to not just post completed pictures of a build part.

I think adding the "how-to" is beneficial to others, even if it's already been done a 100 times by other modelers.

 

Hope that helps someone

 

[ccoyle]

Nice hooks, and another great example of modeler ingenuity.

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Like the hooks, much better than photo etched parts.

 

Sam.

[Valito]

Rowboat 

did not want to post on mtaylor site

thanks for bow tapering Advice. Would you have a pic on how it should look like and im more concern with stern