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Posted

Now is time to fit the gun barells. In gun ports that aren't seen now after fitting the decks, i have glue vertical pieces of wood near the gun ports,before installing the decks.You can see that in earlier fotos,when i make the deck fitting. So in that vertical wood pieces,that i have paint black,i make a hole and in that hole i glue the gun barell in every gun port. The rest guns will be full detailed,because they are in the deck and is visible.1635611362093.thumb.jpg.bf052b7892fc2bed7394ea7c96871e8e.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Now i make the rear upper deck cabin. A rectangular construction,lined outside using the same lining strips as in the deck. I glue the front roof and baseboard finishes, the sides of the roof and the side baseboards all with sapelli wood. Then i glue the the metal doors and windows and put the knobs for the doors. Then i place the cabin on the deck. One more job is done....many others come....lucky me....

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Now i make the rudder blade. I use 6  pairs of hinges. I  Join the rudderblade to the hull using the hinges and hinge pins. Some of the pins must be shortened because the depth is not enough and they will be visible to the other side. A brass wire used to connect the rudder blade with the hull. 

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Edited by gsxdent59
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Now is time for the cannons that are visible from the deck. Each cannon consists of : The metal carriage, that was painted red, the cannon barell that is also metalli made from copper, four metal wheels and two axes made from brass wire 1mm diameter. 22 such complexes were made and placed in the corresponding gun ports, in order to complete the armament of the ship. In their place they were attached with a 1.5 mm cottom wire lashing with two eyebolts that were fixed to the bulwarks on either side of the gun ports. Also on the deck behind each cannon were put eyebolts as indicated in the drawing. The two capstans were painted and glued in place with the front having brass handles for its rotation by hands from the crew of the ship

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Edited by gsxdent59
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Two years after i start the kit....Now i make the the channels,three for one side and other three for the other. I make the necessary holes on them to fit the the clump block slings. For that i use a simple after market equipment to make all the the clump block  easy and the same lenght. Then fit the clump blocks using lengths of brass wire and pass them through the holes in the channels. See fotos. They will be held from below by a length of wire and pinned directly to the hull using pins and brass links. All this job must be done for all six channels,both sides of the hull. 

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  • 2 months later...
Posted

At last i finish all channels,fitting all clump blocks (72 total) both sides of hull and nailed with pins...In the upper free block will be attached the threads from ladders for the three musts,just as the manual said...Attention needed that the clump blocks doesn't cover the gunbarrels from behind in any way

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  • 1 month later...
Posted

Now i finish the stern cabin. Too many pieces, from wood,metal and brass. After painting, i put the chain as show in the manual. Many columns side by side close all the stern balkony.  Three lanterns are made and glued as show in the pictures. Also i make the four anckors from a metal part and wood with brass inforcments. Is't glued in place yet,because these parts must be the last to be fitted, as i will need to have all of the
masts in place first.  Now is time to make the barge (helping boat) .I make the two support for the barge, glued in the center of the lower deck

The barge will be made the same as the ship....nothing easy in this model....

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Posted (edited)

Gsx

The rigging method of the lanyard on the deadeyes is a new twist, for me at least.  How do you tie off the lanyard to the shroud?  Are all of the lanyards left loose on one end so you have some rope to work with to get up to and seized to the shroud?  Hard to tell from the photos if there is a running end available to tie off properly.  As the distance between every pair of deadeyes is different as the angle of the shrouds change, is pre-rigging to the proper spread between deadeyes looks difficult?  The drawing below is from David Lees'   Masting and Rigging, page 42.

Thanks for sharing your build!

Allan

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Edited by allanyed

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Now i start the Main bowsprit. Two pieces ,one 12mm diameter and the boom from 6mm on base 4mm at the end. I use sand paper to give the right shape. Assembled together by viewing the plans that are 1:1 in scale. I put all the eyebolts and pulley blocks as shown in the plans, using cotton thread.  That will be used leater for threads from musts. With the bowsprit in place, the length of  the model is completed. Now is 49,21 inch long or 1,25 meter

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...
Posted (edited)

Now i have finish the front mast. Three parts. Placed all the blocks,pulleys and wires. Start the yards now.Four for each mast...I finish the lower. A lot of work ...wood,metal,and prass parts...I don't cement the yards now. First i will make all the ladders for each mast and after i cement the yards,for easier work.

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Edited by gsxdent59
Posted (edited)

Gsxdent,

 

The foot ropes on the spars are going down en not horizontal.

Now you can not walk on them to get the sails good

For the rest keep on going!

 

Sjors

 

Edited by Sjors
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Now i finish the second yard, paint it and put it in place without cementing permanently. The third yard is easier to build. i put it in place for test. I must paint it also and after i must make the upper and smaller yard to finish the formast. Then from the beginnning the same job for mainmast and backmast

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Edited by gsxdent59
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Now i put six blocks from wooden pins, both sides of the ship. To be sure that the block doesn't move from place,when threats are tide on them,i nail them with two nails for each block. I also cement metal cleats where the manual shows. Finally eyebolts are placed around the masts and in other places according to the manual. Now i am ready to start the threats and put in place the foremast.

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  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Now i start the rigging. I put in place the shrouds for the foremast using thread 0,80 brown. Then the ratlines using brown thread 0,15. After the two anckors with all the equipment, as shown in the manual. The same must be made for the other side of the ship and go on...

 

 

 

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Edited by gsxdent59
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

These days i have recieve my next ship model to start after finish SAN ILDEFONSO...Is the Number 495 from 999 parts of the Britisch Ship HMS VICTORY from OCCRE. The price isn't cheap,but is a quality kit in  limited copies (999 only) and all copies are numbered with plate. It came in a 16 kilos package...in a wooden case...So after i finish this model, i will start that...

  • 2 months later...

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