Capt Nemo Posted March 21, 2020 Share #1 Posted March 21, 2020 Ahoy all! As was mentioned to me and most new builders, I'm here starting a log of my build. I've already had a few "bloopers" and had to do a hard reset as I wasn't happy with the results. I had the decks on and planked so I hit it with good off (perfect name for a product) to unglue things. It did the trick... didn't work on the nails tho. Ryland Craze and GrandpaPhil 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt Nemo Posted March 21, 2020 Author Share #2 Posted March 21, 2020 To get everything lined up and square I added some cribbing, for lack of a better term. Last time i had used the Lego trick and it didn't look good to me after I had the decks on. GrandpaPhil, Ryland Craze, zappto and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt Nemo Posted March 21, 2020 Author Share #3 Posted March 21, 2020 (edited) So now I'm going to "true up?" The top of the bulkheads so I can get my decks back on. I might need to soak the decks to curve them a little to get them to sit right without any dents/divots. Need to order more wood as well now, kit seems to be missing the 3x3 and 5x5 sapelly.... not to mention new decking wood. Edited March 21, 2020 by Capt Nemo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt Nemo Posted March 22, 2020 Author Share #4 Posted March 22, 2020 (edited) Got my decks back on after I "trued" the bulkheads with some sanding. The shims i glued as well as the center line string from foredeck to aftdeck insured things would be somewhat straight and true. When I measured, everything looked good.... so round 2 after restarting is underway. I fixed the deck I snapped in 1/2 with some spare wood I had gluing it under the decking inbetween the 2 pieces and will fill/sand the crack from the top once the glue has cured. Nothing exciting to see sofar but a dragon has been slain today and I'm back on the trail. Next step is getting the deck planking back on. Got some contact cement, I believe they call this shoe makers glue at one point in time; that I'll be using this time around to plank the decks. Never used this stuff, so andy info or tips would be helpful to me. As I understand it, I'll have time to plank the whole deck in one go, brushing on a little as I go. It has a 15 min set time, so im think brushing a cm or so from top to bottom at a time and move from centerline to the outside. Enough glue for 2-3 strips at a time. Edited March 22, 2020 by Capt Nemo Ryland Craze and GrandpaPhil 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt Nemo Posted March 24, 2020 Author Share #5 Posted March 24, 2020 (edited) Planning out my deck planking. The wood I got for my deck was 5mm and is a little too wide for what I want so I ripped the strips down to 4mm wide. Hoping the time invested was worth the trouble, should look better in 4mm. My full plank lenght will be 120mm and going with a 3 butt pattern with pencile to mimic caulking and treenails. Also going to "jog" the planks... should be fun. Edited March 24, 2020 by Capt Nemo Added photo GrandpaPhil, hof00 and Ryland Craze 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt Nemo Posted March 24, 2020 Author Share #6 Posted March 24, 2020 (edited) Having second thoughts on contact cement for the deck planks, might stick to type 2 wood glue... nudge nudge wink wink. Can anyone tell me the proper use when gluing your deck planking to the false deck plywood? Last time around the wood glue would harden and make it so I couldn't butt the planks together anymore... main reason I got the contact cement out. Do you guys do it all in one go? I never used the cement so I'm a little apprehensive about using it seeing as this is the second take on the decking. Edited March 24, 2020 by Capt Nemo Added pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baker Posted March 25, 2020 Share #7 Posted March 25, 2020 So far so good, I would use regular wood glue. Planking a deck needs its time. Best to glue a few planks let it dry and only proceed planking if you are satisfied Be careful with this. Very unhealthy (Xylene, methanol....) Quote Regards, Patrick Finished : Soleil Royal Heller 1/100 Wasa Billing Boats Bounty Revell 1/110 plastic (semi scratch) Pelican / Golden Hind 1/45 scratch Current build : Mary Rose 1/50 scratch Gallery : Revell Bounty Pelican/Golden hind 1/45 scratch To do : Prins Willem Corel, Le Tonnant Corel, Yacht d'Oro Corel, Thermopylae Sergal Shore leave, non ship models build logs : ADGZ M35 funkwagen 1/72 Einhets Pkw. Kfz.2 and 4 1/72 Autoblinda AB40 1/72 122mm A-19 & 152mm ML-20 & 12.8cm Pak.44 {K8 1/2} 1/72 10.5cm Howitzer 16 on Mark. VI(e) Centurion Mk.1 conversion M29 Weasel 1/72 SAM6 1/72 T26 Finland T26 TN 1/72 Autoprotetto S37 1/72 Opel Blitz buses 1/72 Boxer and MAN trucks 1/72 Hetzer38(t) Starr 1/72 Si vis pacem, para bellum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louie da fly Posted March 25, 2020 Share #8 Posted March 25, 2020 I agree with Backer. Contact cement is very unforgiving, not to mention having really nasty fumes. Once you put your plank down you're committed, with no chance of fixing mistakes. White (poly vinyl acetate) glue allows you time to adjust things a bit, and believe me, you'll need it every now and then. As this is your first build, give yourself as much leeway as possible. You'll still make mistakes - we all do. But they needn't be disasters. Use the smallest amount of glue you can get away with but still be able to do the job. And wipe off excess immediately (a wet rag or wet paintbrush is good). A lot of people use a half and half white (PVA) glue/water mix - the thinner glue still works but doesn't make as much mess. And planking should be taken bit by bit - hurry is your enemy. Take the time to get it right and it won't sneer at you (as some of my own mistakes do to me) down the track. Good luck with the planking. I think the 4mm will look better, and 'jogging' will add to the "realness" of your model. And always ask questions if there's anything you're not sure about. There are plenty of people on this forum who'll be very happy to give you the benefit of their experience. Steven Quote It's not really a ship model unless you've bled on it. CURRENT BUILDS Venetian merchant Ship from Basilica of San Marco Golden City - Ballarat paddlewheeler FINISHED Australian couta boat RMS Titanic HMVS Cerberus 11th century Byzantine dromon Winchelsea Nef - Late 13th century Mediaeval ship Henry Grace a Dieu - Rebuild of 1:200 model I started in 1967 https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36379-mistydeefer-by-louie-da-fly-finished-restoration-decor-yacht/#comment-1040663 Mistydeefer - restoration of decor model yacht Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt Nemo Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share #9 Posted March 25, 2020 (edited) Thanks for the replies gentlemen, I almost lost faith in my build log, I had lots of reservations starting this up and almost stop after seeing my first post... felt rather silly/embarrassed. The wife has taken it upon herself to push me to keep posting believing it therapeutic I think hehe. I find comfort in your posts, I was thinking of using watered down wood glue as Louie mentionedand now that's what I'll go ahead with knowing I'm not messing up a second time. That goof off is nasty, your right Backer, I only had to use the stuff once to remove the decks and the contact cement will be collecting dust for the time being. As I was contemplating on the deck and the best course of action, I started with some deck fittings. The stern cabin will be perfect to try and see how the decking will work out using Louie's words of wisdom. Q: Do you use pencil to simulate caulking on the deck fittings as well? Cabins walls and such. Slow and steady. Edited March 25, 2020 by Capt Nemo Question Ryland Craze and GrandpaPhil 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt Nemo Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share #10 Posted March 25, 2020 Deck did go back on, filled and sanded. Got the foredeck's plank pattern penciled on. GrandpaPhil 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baker Posted March 26, 2020 Share #11 Posted March 26, 2020 Thanks for the replies gentlemen, I almost lost faith in my build log, I had lots of reservations starting this up and almost stop after seeing my first post... felt rather silly/embarrassed. The wife has taken it upon herself to push me to keep posting believing it therapeutic I think hehe. you're welcome. And, a fantastic wife you have Got the foredeck's plank pattern penciled on. Good idea 12 hours ago, Capt Nemo said: Q: Do you use pencil to simulate caulking on the deck fittings as well? Cabins walls and such. Only to simulate nails. GrandpaPhil and Ryland Craze 2 Quote Regards, Patrick Finished : Soleil Royal Heller 1/100 Wasa Billing Boats Bounty Revell 1/110 plastic (semi scratch) Pelican / Golden Hind 1/45 scratch Current build : Mary Rose 1/50 scratch Gallery : Revell Bounty Pelican/Golden hind 1/45 scratch To do : Prins Willem Corel, Le Tonnant Corel, Yacht d'Oro Corel, Thermopylae Sergal Shore leave, non ship models build logs : ADGZ M35 funkwagen 1/72 Einhets Pkw. Kfz.2 and 4 1/72 Autoblinda AB40 1/72 122mm A-19 & 152mm ML-20 & 12.8cm Pak.44 {K8 1/2} 1/72 10.5cm Howitzer 16 on Mark. VI(e) Centurion Mk.1 conversion M29 Weasel 1/72 SAM6 1/72 T26 Finland T26 TN 1/72 Autoprotetto S37 1/72 Opel Blitz buses 1/72 Boxer and MAN trucks 1/72 Hetzer38(t) Starr 1/72 Si vis pacem, para bellum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt Nemo Posted March 27, 2020 Author Share #12 Posted March 27, 2020 (edited) Started the planking with watered down wood glue and it's working beautifully, especially with the pencil simulating the caulking. Only got a few planks on and cured but I can already see a huge difference from my first attempt. Hard to tell in the picture with all the measurements, but once done and varnished it'll be awsome. Edited March 27, 2020 by Capt Nemo Added photo Baker, GrandpaPhil, Ryland Craze and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rik Thistle Posted November 25, 2020 Share #13 Posted November 25, 2020 (edited) Hi Capt Nemo, I was reading up on Bluenose builds in general and found yours...it's very good. I'm pretty much new to this hobby myself and you are asking/thinking all the questions I ask. Yes, 'contact adhesive'... https://www.amazon.co.uk/Evo-Stik-Impact-Adhesive-347908/dp/B0001P03S8 ....good for kinda fixing many things but leaves an ugly edge/watermark. Normally you spead the adhesive on both surfaces and then let it dry for a few minutes before bringing (contacting) the two surfaces together. Once together, that's it....no real scope for 'adjustment'. Wood glue is much better... you get minutes to adjust the surfaces when joined .... https://www.amazon.co.uk/Titebond-5004-Premium-Wood-Glue/dp/B0000223UR/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=titebond+wood+glue&qid=1606307056&s=diy&sr=1-4 There are also SuperGlue gels ... https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01KVQKG9C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .... for those parts that need a bit of extra gluing strength and a quick'ish bond. But are a pain if you get your fingers glued! I do like the shape of Bluenose...it's very elegant, and probably very functional. All the best, Richard Edited November 25, 2020 by Rik Thistle Ryland Craze 1 Quote Current build: U.S. Army K51 Radio Truck with K52 Trailer - 1944 - MiniArt - 1:35 Next build: PM Research Crank Shaper - late 1800s - 1:12 Part finished: HMS Flirt (MSE) - 1782 Vanguard Models - 1:64 Finished: Archer anti-tank gun Diorama - 1944 -Tamiya 1:35 : Churchill MkVII tank Diorama - Tamiya - 1:35 - 1944 : Sherman Firefly Tank Diorama - Revell - 1/76 - WWII : Humber MkII Scout Car Diorama - - Revell - 1:76 - WWII : PM Research Drill Press - 1895 - 1:12 : PM Research Milling Machine - late 1800s - 1:12 (est) : Stuart Engineering Lathe - late 1800s - 1:12 (est) : Stuart Beam model steam engine - 1770s onwards - 1:12 (est) : Stuart 10V model steam engine circa 1920s - 1:12 (est) : Lady Eleanor Fifie Circa 1900 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 : Dallas Cutter 1815 - Artesania Latina - 1:50 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryland Craze Posted November 25, 2020 Share #14 Posted November 25, 2020 Hi Captain, Your Bluenose is coming along nicely. I also use diluted wood glue and it has always worked for me. The simulated caulking will have the right effect once you sand down the deck and apply a finish over it. I like Wipe On Poly clear satin as it puts a thin protective coat over the planks. It is also good to use to finish unpainted deck fixtures. It really brings out the wood and does not give it the heavy look. I look forward to seeing your progress on this build. Quote Ryland Member - Hampton Roads Ship Model Society - Ship Model Society of New Jersey - Nautical Research Guild Current Build - Armed Virginia Sloop, 18th Century Longboat Completed Build - Medway Longboat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CS Sailor Posted December 14, 2020 Share #15 Posted December 14, 2020 I am building the same kit and yours seems to be coming along fine. I also found doing the deck planking challenging and time consuming. The coments about taking your time are excellent. I worked from the center outwards doing some planks on each side and checking the remaining distance to the waterway to ensure I did not end with large gap on one side. I opted for using thinner strips of basswood to do the deck and found there were slight variances in width of the strips. I tried to use the same strip on both sides so the distance remaining to the edge stayed even. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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