HMS Pegasus by DBorgens – Amati/Victory Models – 1:64

[DBorgens]

I have been working on Pegasus for a year and a half, and am just now starting the build log. Aside from the beauty of the ship, I chose Pegasus for the wealth of guidance available here on MSW (thank you in advance, I need a lot of help). At this point I have completed through the first planking and the build has progressed normally with few surprises.

 

This is a very good kit, but like many, it begs for some scratch and sub kit “improvements”. My first choice is new capstans based on TFFM. Looking at these now, I need to finish some details.

 

The main deck begged for cabins, which provided a distraction from assembling the “big bones”. Working from scratch allows some design work and creativity. Trial fit of cabin partitions.

 

Dave B

 

[DBorgens]

Getting started with first planking. The kit supplied lime wood is nice to work with.

Gap forming at bulkhead 1, looks like time to spile. The kit does not provide lime strips for spiling, so I switched to 1/2 inch wide basswood strips.

First planking almost finished. The last strake had to be made in halves as ½ inch was not quite wide enough for the full curvature.

Dave B

[mugje]

Amazing job so far! I'm going to follow  

[Voyageur]

Dave, amazing job on the cabin millwork. I'm following this build as well.

[DBorgens]

Mugje and Voyageur,

Thank you for joining. The partitions were fun and provide an opportunity to work on the details while doing the heavier construction. We had company over the weekend so I haven’t been on the forum. I have a bit more catching to post and will do so shortly.
 

Dave B

[DBorgens]

My original attachment of the gun port strips to bulkheads 5, 6 & 7 (which will be removed later) using double sided tape and clamps did not produce the proper contour. You can easily see the gaps.

 

Why not try reheating and clamping in place? Since I could not use a hot water soak again, I applied heat using a covering iron from my RC sailplane days. I used the highest heat setting on the iron which produced a nice toasted effect. I’ll need to keep this in mind if I use the iron for final planking.

After several heating and clamping  cycles (fortunately, they cooled fairly quickly) the gaps remained closed.

Dave B

 

[DBorgens]

Does anyone else find starting the final planking intimidating? I so want to get the run of the strakes reasonably right. So I spent much time marking the location of the wales and the waterline (for reference). Judging from the plans the wale should be a few millimeters above the waterline at the waist. Having set the lines, it’s time to get started.

I am using Chuck’s method of edge bending using dry heat. Practicing with a walnut strip, I found it fast and actually fairly easy. Switching to the boxwood plank, I formed the edge curve, then I formed it around the bow (actually freehand by holding the plank against a board to approximate the bend needed). The plank also has a twist at the stern which I carefully heated in place on the hull (covering iron perfect for this). I glued the strip in place without much force. So far I am liking the dry bending method.

 

Dave B

[DBorgens]

Pegasus took a holiday as we did some home improving. Currently I have completed the second planking. Started at the bottom of the wale working down and with the garboard plank working up while alternating sides to keep everything symmetrical. At least somewhat symmetrical. With box wood becoming scarce, I used the kit walnut under the copper.

 

Time to install the upper counter. There is no laser cut pattern for this piece so, after a couple of cardboard patterns, I made and installed the counter.

 

During time I discovered that I am too narrow at the stern fascia and the inner supports are canted to starboard. Too late to fix but won't be obvious when competed (I hope). I also made the rudder box and painted the inside of box and aft structure edges black to help hide my error.

 

Continuing planking at the black strake, I switched to scale plank lengths (about 130mm) which one builder noted that it is easier. It is.

 

Finally planking completed, awaited opening gun ports and sweep ports. I will install the wale later with 1 mm planking using a top and butt pattern.

 

Dave B

 

Edited March 31, 2021 by DBorgens

[DBorgens]

Switching to guns.

As other Pegasus builders have mentioned the canons and carriages are out of scale and not the most pleasing. I broke down and bought canons and carriages from Syren. My first freehand attempt had too much taper, I can do better.

 

As I considered making a jig to assemble the carriages, a group member pointed out Chuck's jig for carriages on his Winchelsea log. His is similar to what I considered. So I started measuring calculating and making jigs. My second one was a success. See my description in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings

 

The Syren mini-kit is well made and of high quality. The only drawback is that these are the smallest size and the parts are fiddly little things. With a bit of care and they turn out well. There is no comparison between the kit and Syren parts.

Dave B

[DBorgens]

Quoin handles. I started  by using my Dremmel to turn these but had a few problems. The Dremmel is fast even on low speed and I tended to make them too small (if that is possible at 1/64). I also discovered my Dremmel does not run true. I switched to a pin vice and it worked much better.

 

It "only" took 25 pins to get 15 usable on the model. And I still have one spare.

 

Dave B

Edited June 1, 2021 by DBorgens