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Posted

Could someone who knows more than me, which would be all of you :D  please look at my first layer of planking and tell me if this pattern is acceptable for the next layer?

I certainly don't want to mess up now, if you know what I mean.

 

Pics can be seen here http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/84-san-fransisco-ii-by-robbyn-artesania-latina-wood/

 

Thank you for your help in advance.

Robbyn

If you risk nothing, you risk everything!

 

Current builds

Syren (Model Shipways) version 2.0

AL San Francisco II

Mordaunt (Euro Model)

Completed Builds

18th Century Longboat designed by Chuck Passaro
 

In the closet

Battle Station

Al Charles Morgan (1980s version)

 

Posted

Robbyn,

 

Do you want your final planking to be like kit instructions, or like an actual ship, as in the photo below of the Endeavour replica under construction?

 

The final result you want will greatly affect how you go about it.

 

John

Posted

John,

The pic didn't come through. You might have to click the "post image" (I think that's the wording) after it's uploaded.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Posted

There's also this article from the Database (see top of page menu for browsing): http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/plankingprojectbeginners.pdf

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Posted (edited)

That is exactly what I was looking for Jim! I love that big picture, makes it much easier to visualize. That also gives me a much better picture of how exactly the stealers work; better than the drawing in the beginners planking guide as well perhaps because of the size.

 

Michiel, that log looks great too! Thank you for giving me the link, I will be referig back often to look at your pics.

 

Mark, thank you I have the planking guide printed off...that is what I tried to follow for this first layer, and am hoping I did it justice and can just repeat (with fewer errors) my first layer with my second.

 

I can't tell from your photos Michiel, did you use any stealers?

 

I did use a couple on each side on my first layer, but was not particularly succesful with them, they seem to be the areas where I eaither had a bulge, or a sink hole. Good thing wood filler and sandpaper take those out, but I don't want to make those mistakes on this next layer, My mahogany strips are only 1/32" thick so there will not be much forgiveness for any sort of heavy sanding.

Edited by Shazmira

Robbyn

If you risk nothing, you risk everything!

 

Current builds

Syren (Model Shipways) version 2.0

AL San Francisco II

Mordaunt (Euro Model)

Completed Builds

18th Century Longboat designed by Chuck Passaro
 

In the closet

Battle Station

Al Charles Morgan (1980s version)

 

Posted

Robbyn,

 

Remember that this is the Endeavour, which has a particulary bluff bow and hence the need for lots of stealers.  Try to work your stakes of planking so that you use the minimum number of stealers.

 

John

Posted (edited)

I don't see any staelers in that build (its not mine), So you may not necessarily need them

 

I just finished my second layer without:

(but that's the Dutch way of planking; the wales do actually meet 180 degrees this picture is just not taken straight on)

 

hull16c.jpg

 

I did put some at the stern though..

 

 

Here's one of those other pictures you could find on this site before the crash:

wmplanking010.jpg

Edited by Michiel

Finished models: Botter, President

Current:

Prins Willem by the book of Ketting,

HMS Beagle - OcCre

restauration of a Statenjacht

Posted

Michael,

 

Did you use the spilling technique on that hull?

 

Aaron

“The World is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page.” - Augustine

 

Current Build:

 

Artesania Latina San Francisco II 1:90 Scale

 

On the Shelf:

 

Model Shipways Armed Virginia Sloop 1:48 Scale

Posted

The San Fran does have a very Buff bow. On the first layer I only used stealers in the stern, but I had a few places on the bow that bulged. I left them because I knew I could sand it down.

I think this time for the second layer I will go slower, I am thinking that since I have a solid base to work with now it will actually make laying out the top layer easier...I hope I am not wrong in that thinking.

I am going to try using some tracing paper to acurately lay on my hull so that I have a flat version of it, that I can then use to measure and shape my stealers. I have never tried to do do that, but my mind says it should work...now to figure out how to make it work in practice ;)

Robbyn

If you risk nothing, you risk everything!

 

Current builds

Syren (Model Shipways) version 2.0

AL San Francisco II

Mordaunt (Euro Model)

Completed Builds

18th Century Longboat designed by Chuck Passaro
 

In the closet

Battle Station

Al Charles Morgan (1980s version)

 

Posted

Aaron,

 

I'm building the Prins Willem, she actually has a much less round bow below the lowest wale. There the technique shown in the diagram called "Hollandisch" works perfectly fine. You don't need to go to less than half the plank width to work it out completely without stealers.

 

(Hope that answers you question :) )

 

 

Best,

Michiel

Finished models: Botter, President

Current:

Prins Willem by the book of Ketting,

HMS Beagle - OcCre

restauration of a Statenjacht

Posted (edited)

Hi Robbyn,

 

It is also worth considering the overlap/alignment of the first and second layers.  If it is possible, it is preferable to overlap the first and second layer longitudinal joints (that is, not have them coincident).  This provides additional strength and assists in stopping the hull joints opening if for any rreason they become wet (just ask a couple of members hows their models were accidently saturated by water leaks and the like) or in humid.hot climates.

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited by BANYAN

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Posted

Thank you banyan, I had not considered that possiblity, my plan was to follow the same lines as the first layer, but you are correct, that would make way for a future gap; something I surely do not want. Thanks again for throwing some common sense my way.

Robbyn

If you risk nothing, you risk everything!

 

Current builds

Syren (Model Shipways) version 2.0

AL San Francisco II

Mordaunt (Euro Model)

Completed Builds

18th Century Longboat designed by Chuck Passaro
 

In the closet

Battle Station

Al Charles Morgan (1980s version)

 

Posted (edited)

One of the major points you should tackle: the sheer of the planking towards the aft end of the ship is not correct:

you have your planks almost horizontal. In 'real life' it should more or less follow (or even be stronger) than the

upward curvature of the decks.

It should more or less follow the direction of the railing, and not that of the waterline.

 

 

Jan

Edited by amateur
  • 5 months later...
Posted (edited)

I was also discussing the pattern of planking with some friends and wonder if the way of planking of the replica of Endeavour is correct.

This pattern looks like the way of the Dutch practice mentioned here.

But I have doubts.

Is it correct that an English ship (Endeavour replica) has a pattern of planking of Dutch practice. 

This Dutch practice seems dubious to me as the planks are running directly into the wales with steep angles at the bow. Is that the real the Dutch practice or is the Dutch practice the one which Mondfeld describes.
Are there any other examples of the Dutch practice or any other readings, books about this. 
 

Attached a picture of Anatomy of the ship-Endeavour

 

Ilhan 
 

post-207-0-40239600-1377070549.jpg

Edited by Ilhan Gokcay
Posted

Ilhan,

 

I would say that is actually the English practice, although it may not look it due the differing angles between the photo and the drawing.

 

Plans of the actual ship from the NMM in Greenwich plus their own expertise were, I believe, used during Endeavour's construction – and she was said to be the most accurate replica. I therefore can't imagine they would adopt Dutch shipbuilding practices.

Kester

 

Current builds: Sherbourne (Caldercraft) scale – 1/64th;

 

Statsraad Lehmkuhl (half model) 1/8th" – 1'.

 

Victory Bow Section (Panart/Mantua) scale – 1/78th  (on hold).

 

Previous build: Bluenose ll (Billings) scale – 1/100th.

Posted

Hi Kester, thanks for reply.

 

Some of my friends are telling that this Endeavour replica has a planking of Dutch practice but this also not exactly.
I also always thought that the planks should run parallel to the wales as possible and stealers are used where necessary. This achieved by reducing the widht of the planks (max%50).

Regards

Ilhan

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