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Posted

This HMS Terror will be my second build, first build was the Golden Hind by OcCre (DanielD Golden Hind) which I just finished 10/2020.

 

I chose the HMS Terror by OcCre because I was pleased with the Golden Hind by OcCre, which was a level 2, entry level project for someone new to wood modeling. The HMS Terror is a level 3 model requiring more skills in that there are fewer pre-made parts and more rigging. I’m excited to start this project.

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Posted

The first thing I noticed is that there are fewer pre-made parts than the OcCre Golden Hind. The parts that are present are nicely laser cut and easy to identify with the nearly 100% pictorial assembly instructions.

 

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Posted

The deck so far...I changed up the deck planking as suggested by the instructions to individual boards using artist charcoal to define the individual planks. I’m also attempting to make the planks look old, will see how that turns out.

 

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Posted

Finished the deck. Thinking about drilling the holes in the deck out of order based on the instructions as is easy to do now rather than after glued to the hull.

 

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Posted

This looks great so far. Your deck planking is exceptional... I especially like the treenails. They look very orderly and neat. Those "grommets" are called "Illuminators" and were like a prism for letting light onto the gun deck and officers quarters. On mine, I filed them flat on top and filled them with glue to look like lenses. Unfortunately mine are not as straight as yours, but if you haven't glued them in yet it might look nice to make "lenses" for them. Also, those two that are close together in the centre of the deck- that's an error in the plans. Those holes are actually meant for a pair of pumps. 

 

 

Posted
11 minutes ago, Keith S said:

This looks great so far. Your deck planking is exceptional... I especially like the treenails. They look very orderly and neat. Those "grommets" are called "Illuminators" and were like a prism for letting light onto the gun deck and officers quarters. On mine, I filed them flat on top and filled them with glue to look like lenses. Unfortunately mine are not as straight as yours, but if you haven't glued them in yet it might look nice to make "lenses" for them. Also, those two that are close together in the centre of the deck- that's an error in the plans. Those holes are actually meant for a pair of pumps. 

 

 


Thanks for the info Keith! Sadly I have the “illuminators” glued in, but I’ll think of something, maybe a clear polished dowel that slides in to make a lens... The two in the center for the pumps, do you have any info on them? Like what they looked like or what popped through the deck? While My main goal is to build a good representation of the Terror and know that I won’t be exact (this is only my second wood model), but, I will make an attempt to adjust when I learn something new, like the “illuminators.”

 

Thanks again for the kind comments about the deck!

 

Daniel

Posted

Hi Daniel, if you look at my model or Clearway's model, just aft of the forward companionway here are a pair of "elmtree" pumps, that look just like an old-fashioned hand-powered water pump you might see on a farm or something. These are to supplement the giant flywheel pumps that are located on either side of the main mast. Occre's plans incorrectly identify them as additional illuminators. Unfortunately if you wish to include them, you'll have to make them yourself. I made mine from bits and pieces and I believe Clearway found a kit for them. 

Posted

What the other keith said daniel😉, i found some elm tree pumps as fittings from either amati or artesania latina (cant remember which now). You can see from keith s and my model you will need to alter occre kit a lot regards fife rails, pumps, masts etc if more realism is your aim (not as hard as it looks at first though).

 

Keith

Posted
On 10/9/2020 at 8:12 PM, Keith S said:

Those "grommets" are called "Illuminators" and were like a prism for letting light onto the gun deck and officers quarters. On mine, I filed them flat on top and filled them with glue to look like lenses. Unfortunately mine are not as straight as yours, but if you haven't glued them in yet it might look nice to make "lenses" for them.


Well Keith, I’m not sure if I should thank you or curse you 😉, but I looked at both your and clearway (the other Keith’s) build logs as well as looked over the research Matthew Betts has been doing, and well, I need to make some changes. To start with, I ordered a 10 point wheel and hand pump kit. I also took your advise and filled the grommet holes with hot glue and when I cut the excess off with a sharp blade, I achieved a frosted lens look, similar to what was recovered from the Terror a few years ago. I attempted to add the bolt pattern to the grommets with the hopes of adding some detail. While I could not get 24 bolts in my scale, I did get 12. 
 

I’m fairly happy with the result, I just had to repeat the process 32 times 😬!

 

Thank you for pointing me in the right direction, Daniel.
 

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Posted

After some thought, I have decided to show off some of the Terror’s unique features. Specifically I am going to install flickering LED’s under the deck (so the light flicker will show through the illuminators) and in areas with windows (captains cabin, and two deck buildings). Also I plan to install a slow turning DC motor to turn the propeller when I turn the lights on. This will all run off a 9v battery that will be hidden blow deck under a removable deck building. I’m considering where to put a switch to turn on/off the lights, my first idea is to make one of the hand pumps I just ordered into a switch, lift up on the handle and things turn on, push down on handle and everything turns off. So, more planning before I close up the hull...

 

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Posted

interesting idea, you could make the section where the philips capstan is on a slightly raised deck and the accommodation hatch removable (though there will be the skids for the boats on stilts there).

 

Keith

Posted

In today’s shipyard, I started with the rough changes to accommodate the motor to spin the propeller. Also, I drilled through the hull for the shaft as well as modified the propeller to accept the shaft. It was tricky to get the hole centered on the propeller and just the correct size to make a snug fit on the shaft. So far, all looking good. Next I have to wait for the motor to arrive later this week to finish this install. Now to find a good location to hide the 9v battery and allow for replacement.

 

Does anyone know what direction the propeller spins for forward operation? I need to know in order to wire the motor and install the propeller correctly.

 

Thanks, Daniel

 

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Posted

More work on the propeller. Added the hole on one side as depicted in the research by Matthew Betts, and cleaned up the piece a bit. My plan is to chemically blacken all these parts, which I hope works as I’ve never done this before. Chemicals will be in later this week.


I also want to polish this up a bit but my first attempt has only made it shiny, not smooth.

 

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Posted

Here is proof of concept: my goal - to make the screw/propeller turn in the correct direction (counter clockwise) at a generally slow speed, in my case 30 RPMs.

 

My first attempt used a steel rod as the drive shaft, but this put too much bind on the motor to work effectively. My final solution was to use a short section of weed whacker string, flexible and about the correct size for my needs. The fiber string I used had a cross section of a star, which would work great on the motor side but not such a good fit in the small hole on the propeller. After a few minutes of sanding the string, while being turned in the dremel tool, the shaft was round and the correct size for the propeller. In the end I used a piece of shrink wrap to act as a transmission between the D shaft of the motor and the star section of the fiber rod. The final result is in the video below.
 

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Posted
8 hours ago, clearway said:

to play devils advocate- you could find a smoke generator out of a model railroad locomotive for the funnel 😉. Though how you would recharge the smoke fluid could be a problem.

 

Keith


Very funny! How I originally read your message was “I dare you to...” I have such a device in my collection of stuff, but the one I have is 12v and I’m rigging this ship to run on only 9v. Besides, the smoke oil is kind of messy and with the wood of the model, I’m going to pass on this wonderful suggestion. 
 

On a separate note, my LEDs arrived yesterday and they work great, kind of flicker when on, so the illusion of lantern light. I hope to start installing these later tonight.

Posted
On 10/14/2020 at 1:29 AM, clearway said:

to play devils advocate- you could find a smoke generator out of a model railroad locomotive for the funnel 😉. Though how you would recharge the smoke fluid could be a problem.

 

Keith

 

Easy! ...he could also install the safety-valve extension that penetrated the deck on the other side of the companionway, if all he needs is a tube to pour the smoke solution down into. Alternatively, the aft companionway is basically right over the "engine room".. just make it so it lifts off and exposes the works underneath. 

 

I had the same idea about the smoke machine. I'm glad I'm not the only one who is mad enough to suggest it. 
 

Posted

More work in the shipyard tonight. I wired up the flicker LEDs in each compartment under the deck so the light will shine through the Illuminators. My hope is the the light will flicker, similar to an old fashion lantern. I have two LEDs on the deck that will be under the two deck structures with windows.

 

The LEDs run on 9v while the motor is 6v. Thus the need for the voltage regulator. All wired up and working with a little more work to do on the stern so that the cabin windows can be clear and allow the lantern light to show through.

 

I also updated the transmission between the motor D shaft and the flexible propeller drive train because I was concerned that over time the shrink wrap I originally used would get hard and eventually fail. All this in an area of the ship that once I close it up will be inaccessible.

 

 

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