Golden Hind 1575 by bosco72 - Airfix Classic - 1:72 - first ever model build

[bosco72]

[Bill Morrison]

Your paint job is spectacular!  I have read of techniques like yours but have never seen it in photos.  I will follow from hear!

Bill

 

[bosco72]

2 hours ago, Bill Morrison said:

Your paint job is spectacular!  I have read of techniques like yours but have never seen it in photos.  I will follow from hear!

Bill

 

Thank you so much for your kind words. Its very much appreciated. Learning as I go. 

[bosco72]

Removed the gun door ropes and hoops, unfortunately caused a little damaged. decided that I could do a bit better. Instead of using a hoop facing forward. I thought of using a half moon on the verticle an thicker thread so it would be more visable

Edited November 15, 2020 by bosco72

[bosco72]

[bosco72]

Took out some of the banister added a ladder, I think it flows better

Edited November 15, 2020 by bosco72

[bosco72]

Just started reading this, some very clear pictures not sure if I'm going to go to this detail in this build, maybe the next one. 

 

 

[bosco72]

More progress, I'm happy with adding the inner handrail detail, just need to build and paint the rest and weather them. 

[bosco72]

Decided after being happy with the main deck handrail addition, I decided I wasn't. It too was lacking deltail. So I'm attempting to add further depth, not sure I'll do this to every deck. The hand rail has an added strip as to the spindles. 

Edited November 18, 2020 by bosco72

[bosco72]

Also not happy with the brass/copper loop on each gun door, I think it should be two, with two single ropes. Have ordered 1mm wire to see if this is good. Happy to take feed back on how this looks. 

Edited November 18, 2020 by bosco72

[Baker]

In this period they only used 1 single rope / gun door

[bosco72]

2 hours ago, Backer said:

In this period they only used 1 single rope / gun door

This info is much appreciated. Thankful you are helping, and thankful it solves this particular dilemma. Thank you. 

[bosco72]

Got some good lighting today, you can really see the colours now, as apposed to the strange orange that the overhead gu10s give off. 

[bosco72]

Looking to add some belay points, timberheads or cleats? Had a Google but can't find anything definative, (will update this if I do). Thanks. 

[bosco72]

Started knotting instead of CA ing. I'm not very good at it, will stick with it and buy some decent full size rope to practice. 

[bosco72]

Progress, needed a step. Added a step. Also you can see in the background the depth and detail the internal banisters give. 

Edited November 22, 2020 by bosco72

[bosco72]

Internal banisters, they give more detail and will allow for timberheads a little further down the line. Also you can see unweathered gun door rope next to a weathered one. 

Edited November 22, 2020 by bosco72

[bosco72]

Decided that I'm not happy with the cotton rigging, going to start the process of removing it. There will be damage. Will keep the dark rope for standing and add a lighter shade rope for the rest. Also started to look a seizing the ropes this time around. 

[bosco72]

Wish list:

netting and ropes to hold down cargo. 

Open up the cargo covers. 

Barrels, buckets and lanterns to scale.

Drill out ends of the guns.

[bosco72]

Had to remove gun door ropes, placed them too high up, damage and then sanding, also working on the stays. 

[rkwz]

Hi Bosco, I might suggest to rig the ratlines first as the stays could pull the masts out of alignment?

 

Just speaking from experience... 

 

Cheers,

 

Ron

[bosco72]

57 minutes ago, rkwz said:

Hi Bosco, I might suggest to rig the ratlines first as the stays could pull the masts out of alignment?

 

Just speaking from experience... 

 

Cheers,

 

Ron

Hey thanks for the heads up. I've watched a lot of builds a many advise the other way around. Do you mean get the shroud lines in first? Or both, shrouds and ratlines? The advice I'm seeing a lot with rigging order is this - work from the back to the front, bottom to top and center outwards, which makes sense to me, apogies if that explanation is a little confusing as it works more on a visual level. That said I'm always open for all the advice I can soak up. So thank you again. 

[rkwz]

1 hour ago, bosco72 said:

Hey thanks for the heads up. I've watched a lot of builds a many advise the other way around. Do you mean get the shroud lines in first? Or both, shrouds and ratlines? The advice I'm seeing a lot with rigging order is this - work from the back to the front, bottom to top and center outwards, which makes sense to me, apogies if that explanation is a little confusing as it works more on a visual level. That said I'm always open for all the advice I can soak up. So thank you again. 

 

Oh I see, I followed the advice of some helpful forum members earlier and did the rigging based on Noel Hackney's guide to classic ships (copies can be found online but only hardcopy books). The manual sets out the rigging in a step by step manner which simplifies everything tremendously.

 

I did find having the shrouds (sorry I meant shrouds and ratlines in my earlier post) in place first provided much needed downward pressure to stabilise the masts, especially the upper mast shrouds which will prevent the topmasts from pulling too far forward or back. Especially so since I had snapped the main mast when I dropped the model... 

 

You may find the plastic spars are quite bendy as well ... In hindsight and based on the suggestion of others, I would have used bamboo skewers instead (with a little tapering).

 

I'm not suggesting this is the best method, only that it works for me! 😉

[bosco72]

37 minutes ago, rkwz said:

 

Oh I see, I followed the advice of some helpful forum members earlier and did the rigging based on Noel Hackney's guide to classic ships (copies can be found online but only hardcopy books). The manual sets out the rigging in a step by step manner which simplifies everything tremendously.

 

I did find having the shrouds (sorry I meant shrouds and ratlines in my earlier post) in place first provided much needed downward pressure to stabilise the masts, especially the upper mast shrouds which will prevent the topmasts from pulling too far forward or back. Especially so since I had snapped the main mast when I dropped the model... 

 

You may find the plastic spars are quite bendy as well ... In hindsight and based on the suggestion of others, I would have used bamboo skewers instead (with a little tapering).

 

I'm not suggesting this is the best method, only that it works for me! 😉

Wow, they are 40 year old books. Which ones do you have, I think he did three in the series, if there are more I have never read them. I've read the, Victory, Sark and Mayflower. I currently have the Victory no.1, as that will at some point in the future be a build that I will do.

 

They are very rare/costly books now. At some point I have every intention of digitising my copy and sharing it, as they are out of print now and eventually will be impossible to get, and that would be a shame for future generations. 

Edited November 23, 2020 by bosco72

[rkwz]

Hi bosco,

 

Depending how hard you look, you can pick them up quite cheaply (not sure why some people are selling them for over $100). I got 2 out of 3 so far, Victory and Mayflower. Victory cost me about 5 pounds (shipped from the UK), and Mayflower about $17 AUD (local reseller).

 

I think the Mayflower rig would be better suited to the Golden Hind (keeping in mind it won't be exactly the same), and I can see you have Lennarth Petersons manual too which should help visualise certain steps. Happy reading!

 

 

[Baker]

If you want to drill out the barrel of the cannons. Usually these were 6 pounders with a bore diameter of about 76mm (on this scale 1 mm looks ok).

I think you have a rigging plan a few hundred years later than the GH, 16th century rigging is different from your drawings.

And yes, normally first the shrouds,  and then the yards

[bosco72]

On 11/23/2020 at 3:47 AM, rkwz said:

Hi bosco,

 

Depending how hard you look, you can pick them up quite cheaply (not sure why some people are selling them for over $100). I got 2 out of 3 so far, Victory and Mayflower. Victory cost me about 5 pounds (shipped from the UK), and Mayflower about $17 AUD (local reseller).

 

I think the Mayflower rig would be better suited to the Golden Hind (keeping in mind it won't be exactly the same), and I can see you have Lennarth Petersons manual too which should help visualise certain steps. Happy reading!

 

 

I think I have the Revell kit of the Mayflower, I could take a look how the instructions say to rig that. 

[bosco72]

Belay pins, timberheads or cleats? Unsure at this point, added some timberheads as a work in progress. 

[bosco72]

Added more hand rails, they needed sanding (middle deck). Working on rope seizing and trying to find colours that I like. Thinking of adding newls to the balcony at the back, to give it a little more substance.

Edited November 29, 2020 by bosco72

[bosco72]

When seizing the rope, I find the cotton continually unravels. I've tried different glues, too messy. Are there other things I could try? Seizing away from the model is a little easier, but there are several ropes that require being in place before hand. Thanks in advance.

Edited November 29, 2020 by bosco72