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Jeff T

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  • Location
    San Diego, CA, USA
  • Interests
    Plastic sailing ship models,16th-19th centuries.

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  1. I am currently building the Revell 1/96 (really 1/64) Spanish Galleon, with a lot of modifications. I built a few model sailing ships and aircraft carriers and battleships when I was a child and teenager — I kept two of them: Revell Cutty Sark and USS Constitution (neither one of them was the larger 1/96 scale).
  2. Thanks, Michael! I will post when I have the cannons painted. My pace is slow, but my interest is kept up when I complete steps along the way as well as when I think about how I can tackle future steps.
  3. I figured that 30 minute epoxy would make a reasonable bond to keep each trunnion in place within the cannon barrel. I applied epoxy within the divot, with a little of it welling up above the surface, and then slid the trunnion through the hole in the barrel, cleaned up a little epoxy that may have extruded, and then flipped the cannon over to let the epoxy cure. The purpose of the divot was to allow enough epoxy to be placed to hopefully make a stronger bond. And this is the result:
  4. I made the styrene trunnions for the brass cannons. I could find round styrene rods in diameters of 1.2 mm and 1.6 mm, but the 1.2 mm diameter was too small, and the 1.6 mm diameter was too big. I purchased the 1.6 mm diameter rods, with the intent of reducing the diameter to the correct size. I do not have a lathe, so I shortened the rod and secured it into my hand drill, which was held in place in my vise. I spun the rod in the drill while holding it against sandpaper, applying pressure with my thumb, moving the thumb and paper
  5. The gun carriages have been varnished and they are basically finished (except that after the cannons are mounted in them, I will add capsquares over the trunnions).
  6. I agree — and what a wonderful art object it is! Such amazing detail — it looks real, even though it could not be real.
  7. The brass cannons arrived! They came with trunnions (in the plastic bag), which appear to be of high quality, but it may be a bit difficult to get a strong bond between the brass trunnions and the styrene gun carriages. Since I will be painting the cannons anyway, I decided that I will make trunnions out of styrene. The styrene trunnion will fit through the barrel and be cemented on either site to the styrene carriage using liquid cement, making a molten bond rather than a surface bond. I am also still working on the gun carriages -- some difficulty with
  8. Bill, I love the way you weather your decks. True, you could go back and make it look newer here, but an argument may be had for “what if” the proud Wasa had survived and functioned over the years as the flagship of the Swedish navy. (Also, I’ve learned that it can be difficult to make a plastic deck look realistic without weathering it to a degree.)
  9. Can you do something like this? I’ve seen this kind of arrangement before. Here’s a photo of a gunport on the HMS Surprise replica in San Diego: I think that this way, you would only need half as many entry points into the hull.
  10. I was thinking more about the above scheme and realized that the rigging line cannot be tied to the breech, because the length of line between the gunport door and the cannon actually has to shorten as you pull the line in order for the door (lid) to open as the cannon moves forward. In order to do this, it may be better to drill a hole in the metal cannon somewhere in the rear of the cannon, vertically (top to bottom) so that you can feed the line through it. When you pull on the line below the gunport, the line will then slide through the cannon, moving it forward as the door opens.
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