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Jeff T

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About Jeff T

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    San Diego, CA, USA
  • Interests
    Plastic sailing ship models,16th-19th centuries.

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  1. My next project is working on the cannons. It seems like it would be fairly straightforward: the two halves of each cannon are cemented together and then the piece is mounted on the gun carriage. Unfortunately, since the molds for this kit are old (1970s, I think), the pieces sometimes do not fit together very precisely. So a lot of work is required to get rid of the mold lines. In my kit, one of the cannon halves was missing, and I lost another one. Fortunately, I remembered how Backer had used sprue to make cannons for his HMS Bounty, so I tried it out by making a couple of cannon halv
  2. 2) I also modified the stop cleats on the bowsprit. The photo below shows me holding a straight piece of white paper inserted through the grating in the beakhead floor, right behind the new gammoning hole (with repainting in progress). It means to demonstrate the trajectory of the gammoning, which will be right in front of where the strip is located. The uncompleted bowsprit is dry-fitted in place. The end of the lower stop cleat on this port side is marked black (follow green arrow): If I were to do the gammoning around the bowsp
  3. I made a couple more modifications: 1) On the kit's bowsprit, there are small stop cleats molded in place: Ideally, I would want the gammoning to abut the stop cleats, like this: However, as you can see with the (work in progress) bowsprit dry-fitted in place, the gammoning hole (goldenrod arrow) is a bit far forward in the knee of the head: So, if I did the gammoning through that hole, bringing it vertically upward, it would look something like this: The stop cleats are by themselves and f
  4. Very nice with the figures, Bill! Enjoyment not only for the grandkids, but also for people of all ages — it adds life and a “story” to the ship.
  5. Here is how the bowsprit and masts look with the cleats attached (from left to right: mizzenmast, bowsprit, mainmast, foremast): The square areas of exposed plastic within the reddish putty on the bowsprit in the photograph in my second post from November 14th were made to allow the solvent cement to make strong bonds with the polystyrene cleats. Eventually, after the topmasts are made and attached and after the spars are made, I will spray them all brown and then "weather" them. For rigging, my plan will be to belay the spritsail
  6. I made some cleats to mount on the foremast, mainmast and bowsprit. These will eventually be used to belay certain rigging lines. Since the kit is plastic, I used polystyrene strips to make the cleats, since there would be a good, strong bond between the cleat and the mast, which could handle some tension. fil I first filed down a strip with a round file so that the undersurface of the cleats would be concave. This helps it conform to the "roundness" of the mast or bowsprit: Here is how the undersurface appears after filing: Then
  7. Patrick, congratulations on this amazing build — you packed so much realistic detail into this small scale, and it has been an inspiration for my own plastic ship build. Your skill and precision are exemplary!
  8. There is a glue called Craftics Thickened Cement #33 that I have used for gluing small pieces of polycarbonate to styrene on my plastic model, and since it is not too thin, I think maybe one could mask the edges of the polycarbonate being joined to protect the surfaces from overflow and “spider web” strings from extruding glue, without the glue creeping under the tape. The surfaces would probably need to be masked on the inside and the outside of the seams. Here is a link: https://www.craftics.net/ShowItems.aspx?Category=80&ParentCategory=3 Craftics makes thin glu
  9. It’s great to see in your photos how the white glue works to stiffen the sails in a “billowed” shape by treating them over the plastic ones. This is coming along very nicely!
  10. In addition to the problem where the seams did not line up correctly, there were a lot of variations in the contour or "roundness" of the masts and bowsprit (although they really are not completely round anyway -- more like "oval"). I wanted to make them as consistent as possible, so this required a lot of work. I used a steel-filled epoxy (J-B Weld) and also Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty to smooth things out: The brass rods that you see protruding from them (glued in place with steel-filled epoxy) will later be shortened and used to hold the spars up to the masts a
  11. I decided to take a break from painting for a while, and looked ahead to the masts and spars. The plastic in this kit is a bit pliable, with an almost "waxy" texture to it when handled. (I remember styrene in kits that I built in my youth being more rigid, and maybe even brittle at times). Since this plastic bends, the spars and upper masts may be a little difficult to manage when rigging is applied with a little tension. Even the lower masts and bowsprit are thin and may bend. Other members on this forum have used wood on the inside to strengthen them. What I decided to do i
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