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USS Ranger 1823 by Colin_C - Corel - 1:64 - first build


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My Corel Ranger arrived in the post a couple of days ago, and this is my first build. I bought this kit because it was listed as a beginner kit by the online supplier, and I liked the look of it. That was basically it, and I didn't join MSW till after I'd placed the order.

 

So now I know @Cathead, @mattsayers148, @trippwj, @Woodmiester12, @Small Stuff all have tackled this before me (hope I've not not missed anyone) and I've also found https://modelshipworld.com/topic/18657-new-to-ship-modelling-but-what-do-you-build-first/ which suggests Corel might not have been the best choice for a complete newbie. I did consider getting something simpler, but since the kit arrived and I've opened it up, I've decided to crack on. What could possibly go wrong? I figure I can always park it if it gets too much.

 

So this log will be from the perspective of a complete beginner, hopefully it will help someone as inexperienced as I.

 

Step one: open the box. My first impression was was that there were fewer 'bits' than I expected, but there is no parts list. And most of them aren't numbered. The very first sentence in the instruction manual has set the scene, "Glue lath 13 to the bottom of the keel 12". I guess we're not in Ikea anymore.

 

It seems  that this is a fictional ship, and is only based on cutters of the period. I think this is probably good news for me. This is more of a learning experience for me than anything else, so I don't have to be too faithful to any particular vessel. I also see that the box and instruction manual say the scale is 1:50, while the plans say 1:64. From other build logs, it seems 1:64 is correct. Not sure yet exactly what challenges this is going to throw up. A bit of arithmetic, presumably

 

I've not attempted any building yet, still just getting a feel for what the kit comprises, going through the instructions and reading up on the build logs here. This might take a while, but that's fine by me. I'm in no rush.

 

By pure coincidence, the same day my Corel Ranger arrived my 12 year old daughter brought home her first ever project from her Technical Studies class at school. She's very pleased with it and I shall keep it beside me for inspiration...

1096006679_20201122_1808001.thumb.jpg.9dd04db569156e8f826f64b6f0cd0c29.jpg

 

 

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You've definitely chosen a challenge, but I'm so glad you joined MSW and started a build log. We'll do our best to help you along the way and are looking forward to seeing how you make this kit your own. Poor instructions are just one of many pitfalls Corel will place before you, but you're doing the right thing by looking at what others have done, taking your time, and not taking yourself too seriously! After all, the core point is to have fun.

 

I don't have my instructions to hand, but there may be a parts list in the back of the booklet that you can use to compare with your kit contents and figure out what's meant to be used for what.

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Well, I've made a start.

 

My first problem of identifying lath 13 was solved. The instructions describe this piece as being 3x3mm, and my only decision was which piece to use. I have 2 identical laths of these dimensions, just a slight difference in colour. Throughout the instructions there is only reference to "walnut" and "lime", so I took a punt and used the slightly darker one, "a bit more walnutty than the other walnut one".Lath_13.png.23425a779bfc08677fea4ba3fa311f31.png"

 

 

Since then I've mostly been sanding and filing. All the slots in the keel and frames needed widening to allow them to fit together. I also had to make the slots deeper to the top of the frames would sit true with the keel (instructions did note this would be required). And I evened out the camber on some of the frames as they were clearly not symmetrical.

Uneven_Frames.png.8b9e0d0f7e59f916ab67e157527f517a.png

 

A lesson learned here was that my filing "style" must have been at a bit of an angle, because I wasn't filing evenly. This meant a couple of the frames didn't sit naturally square on the keel. There was enough wiggle to make them sit square, but I was concerned about twisting the keel a little by forcing it. So I tidied these up to get them to sit better.

Squnt_Frame_7.png.bd8e9bfe3a377ae1dc393e043b1f8f43.png

 

 

Frames 8 and 10 stick through the deck, but these were too both too wide and needed filed down to make them fit.

Frame_10_Poor_Fit.png.85c5576f94e93704de68c9ae9660afad.png

 

Next, the holes in the deck and slots in the keel for the masts are too small and needed opening up a bit.

Mast_Fitting.png.f7228c8f2b8d1c83548bf5b095e836f8.png

 

So far, much the same as @Cathead's experience. There's a little fine tuning to do, but it looks like the frames all fit well and the deck will sit okay on top of them. When I glue them in I'll make sure they are all perfectly square.

Unglued_Frames.png.87cda9eecaecdd549e21f598f2304c4e.png

 

Now, this is where it gets interesting. Maybe.

 

I found this YouTube video (seems top be part 1 of three). An Italian friend has kindly translated if for me and I've attached the translation at the end of this post. If it's useful, I'll ask her to translate the other two.

 

About 2:40 in he starts creating a rabbet. First off, when I lay my keel over the plans, nothing lines up properly. I'm guessing this is something to do with the 1:50 / 1:64 scale discrepancy, but it makes the plans a bit useless as a template. Also, this looks like something that could go horribly wrong for a man of my limited experience, and I notice that @Cathead@mattsayers148, and @Woodmiester12 didn't do it in their builds. @trippwj had got got passed this before starting his log. The instructions don't suggest doing it. So I think I'll give that bit a miss.

 

At 5:57 he cuts the deck in half to make it easier to fit the curvature of the frames. I can see sense in that (and the risks), but am wondering is it really worth doing? Again, it's not in the instructions and I don't think anyone else here did it that way. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

I'll glue the bulkhead frames in over the next couple of days. My first bit of serious action. Should I do them all in one sitting, or one at a time? I was planning to use lego bricks to ensure they were perfectly square, but only doing them one at a time will really allow for that. And PVA or superglue?

 

Cheers

Colin

 

 

Video_Translation_1.rtf

Edited by Colin_C
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Colin, good to see your build log getting underway. Looking good!

 

Bruce

🌻

STAY SAFE

 

A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin

current builds:

HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style

Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild 

French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold

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Although my log doesn't document it (shame on me), I think I did my frames one at a time, using metal squares clamped to the keel and hull. That ensured they were correct, and didn't take that long as wood glue sets fairly quickly in a tight joint. Definitely use wood glue for all wood-wood joints.

 

As for the deck, I can't see any benefit to cutting the deck in half, it takes the curve just fine. However, if you haven't read ahead in my log yet, check how I did it, because I'm not a fan of how the instructions tell you to do it and worked out a different way that's a lot more reliable.  

 

In short, the instructions will have you glue little wooden laths on the underside of the deck, based on the plans, that will help it line up with the frames. You can't trust the plans to be accurate enough for that. Instead, clamp the deck in place where you want it, THEN glue the laths onto the deck as guides. When they dry, you'll have accurate guides for seating the deck in its final position with glue.

 

As for the rabbet, I'm not sure it's necessary. Especially with a double-planked hull, it could be hard to get just right, and the planks seat against the keel fine if you camber their edge. I think it's best to learn how to do rabbets right with a kit that has specific and accurate guidance for how to do it. If you keep reading ahead in logs, you'll also find that the kit's planking instructions are crap (just a heads-up).

 

You're doing a great job thinking through what you're doing, keep it up. You'll have a nice final product.

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  • 1 month later...
On 11/25/2020 at 7:16 PM, Colin_C said:

Well, I've made a start.

 

My first problem of identifying lath 13 was solved. The instructions describe this piece as being 3x3mm, and my only decision was which piece to use. I have 2 identical laths of these dimensions, just a slight difference in colour. Throughout the instructions there is only reference to "walnut" and "lime", so I took a punt and used the slightly darker one, "a bit more walnutty than the other walnut one".Lath_13.png.23425a779bfc08677fea4ba3fa311f31.png"

 

 

Since then I've mostly been sanding and filing. All the slots in the keel and frames needed widening to allow them to fit together. I also had to make the slots deeper to the top of the frames would sit true with the keel (instructions did note this would be required). And I evened out the camber on some of the frames as they were clearly not symmetrical.

Uneven_Frames.png.8b9e0d0f7e59f916ab67e157527f517a.png

 

A lesson learned here was that my filing "style" must have been at a bit of an angle, because I wasn't filing evenly. This meant a couple of the frames didn't sit naturally square on the keel. There was enough wiggle to make them sit square, but I was concerned about twisting the keel a little by forcing it. So I tidied these up to get them to sit better.

Squnt_Frame_7.png.bd8e9bfe3a377ae1dc393e043b1f8f43.png

 

 

Frames 8 and 10 stick through the deck, but these were too both too wide and needed filed down to make them fit.

Frame_10_Poor_Fit.png.85c5576f94e93704de68c9ae9660afad.png

 

Next, the holes in the deck and slots in the keel for the masts are too small and needed opening up a bit.

Mast_Fitting.png.f7228c8f2b8d1c83548bf5b095e836f8.png

 

So far, much the same as @Cathead's experience. There's a little fine tuning to do, but it looks like the frames all fit well and the deck will sit okay on top of them. When I glue them in I'll make sure they are all perfectly square.

Unglued_Frames.png.87cda9eecaecdd549e21f598f2304c4e.png

 

Now, this is where it gets interesting. Maybe.

 

I found this YouTube video (seems top be part 1 of three). An Italian friend has kindly translated if for me and I've attached the translation at the end of this post. If it's useful, I'll ask her to translate the other two.

 

About 2:40 in he starts creating a rabbet. First off, when I lay my keel over the plans, nothing lines up properly. I'm guessing this is something to do with the 1:50 / 1:64 scale discrepancy, but it makes the plans a bit useless as a template. Also, this looks like something that could go horribly wrong for a man of my limited experience, and I notice that @Cathead@mattsayers148, and @Woodmiester12 didn't do it in their builds. @trippwj had got got passed this before starting his log. The instructions don't suggest doing it. So I think I'll give that bit a miss.

 

At 5:57 he cuts the deck in half to make it easier to fit the curvature of the frames. I can see sense in that (and the risks), but am wondering is it really worth doing? Again, it's not in the instructions and I don't think anyone else here did it that way. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

I'll glue the bulkhead frames in over the next couple of days. My first bit of serious action. Should I do them all in one sitting, or one at a time? I was planning to use lego bricks to ensure they were perfectly square, but only doing them one at a time will really allow for that. And PVA or superglue?

 

Cheers

Colin

 

 

Video_Translation_1.rtf 6.9 kB · 1 download

I will recommend one at a time as this is your first. This is one one of the key critical keystone blocks to ensure a correctly aligned frame upon which to build!

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Colin:  I thought that I would mention that Ranger by Corel was also my first attempt.  It was challenging and I went slowly and methodically, sometimes changing tack in my approach to some difficult aspect.  But it turned out well and I think if you keep at it, you will also be surprised at the result. 

Take it slow, think things through.  Yes there are instructions that seem confusing.  I found that I referred to the parts list quite often.  Keep good sharp knives handy.  You can't have too many tweezers.  Use small brushes for applying the glue. I found the 1/8" square "hobby sanding twigs" worked the best for much of the sanding needed.

Best of luck.

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