HMS Bounty by DaveBaxt - FINISHED - Amati - 1:60

[DaveBaxt]

2 hours ago, Jerry said:

Wow, Dave!  The planking looks terrific.  You don't need any advice any longer.  You've got the job down pat.  Your work on this phase is as good as any I've seen.  I know that about this time you're probably thinking how nice it'll be to do some other kind of operation on the ship than planking.  You're well on your way now and i compliment you on a job well done.

Best,

Jerry

Thanks for you very kind words Jerry. However I still feel I have lots to learn especially when it comes to the rigging. It is a bit monotonous doing the second planking straight after the first planking and sometimes think I would like to do something else on the model. However I think I will stick with it while I have the hang of it and I have a bit of a routine going . Hopefully I can continue with the same progress and hopefully I don,t make too many mistakes. Shortly after the Wales followed by the deck planking.More planking to do. A question regarding the wales. Do fit the wales before or after applying the sand and sealer.? Thank you again for you input Jerry,best regards Dave

[Baker]

This is indeed a very neat planking  👍

[Jerry]

I did the wales after sealing and sanding.  There's too much chance of nipping the wales while sanding if they are in place.  Don't worry about the rigging and I believe you'll eventually find that to be the most enjoyable part of building the ship.  Just make sure you install your masts and booms soundly as they are the foundation for your rigging.  As  for the deck planking, I have attached a picture of how I do my decks.  Notice that the planks repeat position every four planks.  I hope you understand what I mean.

 

Best,

Jerry

[DaveBaxt]

11 hours ago, Jerry said:

I did the wales after sealing and sanding.  There's too much chance of nipping the wales while sanding if they are in place.  Don't worry about the rigging and I believe you'll eventually find that to be the most enjoyable part of building the ship.  Just make sure you install your masts and booms soundly as they are the foundation for your rigging.  As  for the deck planking, I have attached a picture of how I do my decks.  Notice that the planks repeat position every four planks.  I hope you understand what I mean.

 

Best,

Jerry

Looks like really nice deck planking. I know what you mean about every 4 planks.there is a really good artical on deck planking on this website and shows each step including how to mark it off and the sequence for laying the planks. and for different patterns, so thanks for that. 

Regarding the wales, what did you use for the 4th & 5th wales down? The instructions say 2x2mm however on the scale drawing they are clearly much wider. The guy on the Amati video uses 2 pieces of the first planking which as you know is 1.5 x 6 mm.

        Thanks again for your input it is very much appreciated and I am really looking forward to the challenge of the rigging.Best regards Dave

Edited January 10, 2021 by DaveBaxt

[DaveBaxt]

12 hours ago, Backer said:

This is indeed a very neat planking  👍

Thank you for you kind remark and your input is welcome.

[Jerry]

Sorry, Dave but unless my good eye is failing me, I only count 3 wales on my model.  It's possible that there are more but I don't see them.  Check page 3 of my Bounty log and tell me what you think.  Now, regarding the deck planking:  I ran a black marker along one edge of every piece of planking which gave the deck the illusion that there was material between each strip.  Do you understand what I'm talking about?  I can't remember what this material was called but it was some type of insulation. Make sure you mark one end and one edge only or the coloring will be too dark.  Good luck and keep going on your very nice job.

Best,

Jerry

[Baker]

I also count only 3 wales with the Bounty models
2 smaller and 1 wide
My Bounty model was just a plastic model but quite a challenge
In post 1 you will find a link of drawings from the original model

[DaveBaxt]

Here is a photo copied from the  instructions regarding the wales. Hopefully you can see clearly.how many there are. What is not clear is wales 4 & 5 . Here is a link to Amati video showing how the guy got around this problem.Look at just over 5.2 mins into the video. Perhaps Jerry when you counted 4 perhaps 4 & 5 looked like one? I think your photos show this is probably the case.I have listed the numbers of the wales which I got from the parts list. But 4 & 5 are clearly not 2 x2. Thanks for your input on the wales guys and think I will go for the 2 x 6 mm planking for wales 4 & 5. Also Jerry thanks for the input regarding the deck planking. I have a few permanent marker pens which I can test out and I get exactly what you mean. So once again thanks for your input which is much appreciated. Now for the interesting part of the second planking. I am not sure to go with trying to fit stealers or just go with wedges as I did in my first planking. 

 

Edited January 11, 2021 by DaveBaxt

[Jerry]

Hello Dave,

Upon further examination of my Bounty I now believe you're correct. On my model, wales 4 and 5  (49 & 50 on the diagram) are painted Navy Blue ( or black) and are 1x6mm.  I have attached a picture.  I hope this helps and the mystery is solved.  Take care,

Jerry

[DaveBaxt]

1 hour ago, Jerry said:

Hello Dave,

Upon further examination of my Bounty I now believe you're correct. On my model, wales 4 and 5  (49 & 50 on the diagram) are painted Navy Blue ( or black) and are 1x6mm.  I have attached a picture.  I hope this helps and the mystery is solved.  Take care,

Jerry

 

1 hour ago, Jerry said:

Hello Dave,

Upon further examination of my Bounty I now believe you're correct. On my model, wales 4 and 5  (49 & 50 on the diagram) are painted Navy Blue ( or black) and are 1x6mm.  I have attached a picture.  I hope this helps and the mystery is solved.  Take care,

Jerry

Thanks for clearing that up for me Jerry. By the way great picture of the how the shroud are attached to the vessel via the dead eyes and channels. The wire loops that go around the dead eyes then to links nailed to the hull, do they require soldering . The reason I ask is at the moment I do not possess such equipment. Is this necessary or will CA glue hold it?Just wondering if I need to get myself a soldering Iron and solder etc.Best Regards Dave

 

Edited January 11, 2021 by DaveBaxt

[Jerry]

No need to buy a soldering gun; you won't need one for this build.  

jerry

[DaveBaxt]

2 hours ago, Jerry said:

No need to buy a soldering gun; you won't need one for this build.  

jerry

Cheers Jerry you just save me some money,at least for the time being. I have just checked the width of the wales 4 & 5 and for two of them I make it 11 mm. I could use the 1x 5 which comes with the kit (4 lengths) but it is also needed for the hand rail around the bulwarks and the racks for the belaying pins but still think I will have enough. The 1 x 5 will be easier to fit than the 1.5 x 6 mm which I have lots left over from the first planking..I could not find any 1 x 6mm with the kit. Best regards Dave

Edited January 11, 2021 by DaveBaxt

[DaveBaxt]

Phew! second layer of planking complete. Unfortuately It did not turn out as well as it should the main problem was where the planks lay next to the rudder post . Perhaps I should have spent more time preparing the first planking in this area to ensure the planks lay flat . However as this area will be painted hopefully with some small pieces of filler I can salvage it. Also I struggled with some of the planks being as tight as I would have liked, esppecially  at the bow section where the hull slopes in both direction. Here are a few examples of the finished planking

[Jerry]

Dave, you are too hard on yourself; from what I can see your planking is more than adequate.  To each his own, if it were me, I wouldn't spend the money for the "slip."  There are so many good and cheaper hull holders on the market.   So keep going the way you are.

Best,

Jerry

[DaveBaxt]

55 minutes ago, Jerry said:

Dave, you are too hard on yourself; from what I can see your planking is more than adequate.  To each his own, if it were me, I wouldn't spend the money for the "slip."  There are so many good and cheaper hull holders on the market.   So keep going the way you are.

Best,

Jerry

Thanks Jerry you have saved me more money I will have to send you some commission, only joking. I will heed your advice for the time being. The problem with the equipment I am using I have damaged the decking at one of the openings ( It will repair easy enough but its a bit annoying) Thanks for that regarding the planking. So the next step will be to fill any small gaps and to lightly sand. Then its onto the wales. Once those are complete I need to seal the hull. There is a product here in the uk called sand and sealer which is what the guy uses  prior to painting in the Amati video . Is this the same stuff you mentioned earlier as if so I already have some. So I may as well try it. If not let me know what you use for next time and I will try and get some. Thanks again for helping me out .Best regards Dave

[Thunder]

Considering the shape of Bounty's bow that planking is excellent. I hope I do that well when I get to build her.

[DaveBaxt]

16 minutes ago, Thunder said:

Considering the shape of Bounty's bow that planking is excellent. I hope I do that well when I get to build her.

Thanks Thunder for your input and kind words. It became increasingly difficult to keep the planks tight at the bow as I progressed and no matter how I tried, one or two gaps appeared especially where the planks were bent in two directions.However as I will be painting the lower half of the hull I think I can cheat a little bit and use some wood filler. If I was varnishing the hull I would try and use some saw dust and pva glue. Best regards Dave

[Jerry]

Hey Dave,

 

The sand and seal product you mentioned sounds fine but different from the wood filler I always use.  I use Minwax wood filler.  I use it because it is water soluble so it works well with my procedure of wood filling.  The way I treat the hull is probably more radical than the 'normal" way of just filling in gaps and seams, etc. and then sanding the surface.  I actually apply a fairly thick coat of the Mini Wax product over the entire hull.  That's right, the entire hull.  I then wipe and the hull with a wet cloth which thins the filler and cleans the surface where filler is not needed.  This results in a smooth hull of its original color.  Any large gaps will of course carry the color of the filler whose color is neutral.  In some cases you may need to apply additional filler in deep gaps. and wet wipe again.  This method was shown to me b y someone with years of experience who believe it or not, is older than I am.  Hope this doesn't drive you nuts.

Best,

Jerry

[DaveBaxt]

21 minutes ago, Jerry said:

Hey Dave,

 

The sand and seal product you mentioned sounds fine but different from the wood filler I always use.  I use Minwax wood filler.  I use it because it is water soluble so it works well with my procedure of wood filling.  The way I treat the hull is probably more radical than the 'normal" way of just filling in gaps and seams, etc. and then sanding the surface.  I actually apply a fairly thick coat of the Mini Wax product over the entire hull.  That's right, the entire hull.  I then wipe and the hull with a wet cloth which thins the filler and cleans the surface where filler is not needed.  This results in a smooth hull of its original color.  Any large gaps will of course carry the color of the filler whose color is neutral.  In some cases you may need to apply additional filler in deep gaps. and wet wipe again.  This method was shown to me b y someone with years of experience who believe it or not, is older than I am.  Hope this doesn't drive you nuts.

Best,

Jerry

Jerry thanks for that. I pretty much did the what you you have just explained to the hull of my first model,however I did not wipe it off but allowed it to dry and then sanded it smooth. However it was not Minwax but a white modelling filler. The paint took ok but unfortunately the hull was to easly marked and when I used the masking tape for marking the water line and then removed the tape it brought off some of the paint and the filler. I will see if I can source the Minwax  in the Uk and perhaps try this on my next model. This hobby can be very frustrating as there seems to be several different ways of doing just about every that we do. So thanks again Jerry and look forward to your input once again. Best regards Dave

[DaveBaxt]

Slot cut and files to take rudder and hull sanded ready for wales ( rubbing strakes)  Commence fitting of wales. 3 on each side fitted then soaking wales 4 & 5  (1.5 mm x 6 mm)  ready for bending tomorrow. Also fitted gun ports and attempted to get them square with each other. before fitting the wales.

 

 

 

Fortunately I used the main drawing to get the distances between the wales as I just happen to be looking at the channels and where the go in relation to the wales and as far as I can see the channels are glued onto the second wale down and the brackets for the channels fit inbetween the first and second wales. At least thats what I hope. Phew just checked to see if the brackes can fit there and I have got away with that one.I needed a bit of luck.

Edited January 14, 2021 by DaveBaxt

[Jerry]

It's morning here so good morning, Dave.

Well it certainly appears that you know what you're doing because from what I can see your planking looks as good as any I've seen.  I also like the straight lines of your wales and the crisp shape of the rudder slot.  All in all, you are doing one hell of a good job and you should be proud of yourself.  I'm looking forward to see your decking and especially the rigging.  Keep me posted.

Best regards,

Jerry

[DaveBaxt]

2 hours ago, Jerry said:

It's morning here so good morning, Dave.

Well it certainly appears that you know what you're doing because from what I can see your planking looks as good as any I've seen.  I also like the straight lines of your wales and the crisp shape of the rudder slot.  All in all, you are doing one hell of a good job and you should be proud of yourself.  I'm looking forward to see your decking and especially the rigging.  Keep me posted.

Best regards,

Jerry

Jerry Thanks for that it has just taken me all day to put on 8 wales. For some reason the last one gave me no end of trouble perhaps I should have left it for another day and quit while i am ahead.. However I have learnt a valuable lesson and that is CA and PVA don,t mix. Just wondering do you use CA on the wales and if so so you just do an inch at a time. Are you confident that the hold id strong enough. I am not sure what I am doing wrong but CA does not seem to work for me. I am wondering why. 

Apart from that snag all is on track for wales 4 & 5 tomorrow. Also I still need to maybe fill one or two larger gaps at the bottom of the stern post before using the sand and sealer. Your comments are much appreciated and I will keep you posted.

Edited January 14, 2021 by DaveBaxt

[Jerry]

Hello again , Dave...

Yes, I used CA glue and an accelerator on all the wales.  The accelerator will cause the glue to set instantly and you should have no problem having the wales adhere to the hull.  Your photos show your wales in place so you must have done something right to get them to "stick."  I began at the bow and slowly worked my way aft.  You are correct, white glue and CA don't mix.  I didn't see any gaps in the stern of your model and as a matter of fact I think you did a great job on the stern planking and that's a shame because you won't see it at the end of the build.  The stern will be covered with window paraphernalia.  (I'm kidding you)  I hope this helps you.

Best,

Jerry

[DaveBaxt]

1 hour ago, Jerry said:

Hello again , Dave...

Yes, I used CA glue and an accelerator on all the wales.  The accelerator will cause the glue to set instantly and you should have no problem having the wales adhere to the hull.  Your photos show your wales in place so you must have done something right to get them to "stick."  I began at the bow and slowly worked my way aft.  You are correct, white glue and CA don't mix.  I didn't see any gaps in the stern of your model and as a matter of fact I think you did a great job on the stern planking and that's a shame because you won't see it at the end of the build.  The stern will be covered with window paraphernalia.  (I'm kidding you)  I hope this helps you.

Best,

Jerry

Thanks Jerry. Is the eccelerator already mixed with the CA glue. The CA glue I use is 10 to 15 seconds and goes off OK. I never seem to get the right amount and I always seem to get it in areas I don,t want it and worry about staining surrounding areas. Can you just sand out areas rhat get stained. I do manage to get the wales to stick using PVA glue ,however I am finding much more difficult than the planking as there is nothing to butt the edge too and hold the plank in place. I may have to persevere with what I am doing, but would still like to get the hang of CA if I can, as I am sure it would be needed for other parts of the model later on in the build. Once again thank you for your help as it is really helpful to know I am doing ok. Best regards Dave

[Jerry]

Dave

Hope this catches you before you get to bed.  Look, the accelerator comes in its own  spray bottle.  It's a bottle about the same size as the CA bottle.  15 second CA is OK.  You apply the CA and then spray the area with the accelerator.  As soon as the accelerator hits the glue, the glue sets immediately.  And then your wale is in place permanently.  Get a good night's sleep because your problem will definitely be solved with the use of the accelerator.  Evert decent hobby shop that sells CA should have the accelerator available.

 

Tata.

Jerry

[DaveBaxt]

7 hours ago, Jerry said:

Dave

Hope this catches you before you get to bed.  Look, the accelerator comes in its own  spray bottle.  It's a bottle about the same size as the CA bottle.  15 second CA is OK.  You apply the CA and then spray the area with the accelerator.  As soon as the accelerator hits the glue, the glue sets immediately.  And then your wale is in place permanently.  Get a good night's sleep because your problem will definitely be solved with the use of the accelerator.  Evert decent hobby shop that sells CA should have the accelerator available.

 

Tata.

Jerry

Good morning Jerry. You just missed me before I went to bed but no problem early to bed early to rise. It must have been something to do with spending a life time as a sea going engineer . Anyway the accelerator sounds like just what I need. Unfortunately here in the uk we are in almost total lock down due to Covid 19 virus and all non assensial shops are closed . So it looks like ebay or Amazon. I should be able to get some pronto. I still think I need some practice in getting the right amount on. On my last model I used CA on anything fiddly and metal parts but again put on too much. However practice makes perfect so will persevere . Best regards Dave.

[Jerry]

Good morning, Dave...A quick reply..

I don't put the CA on the entire strip (planking, wales, decking, etc.).  I spot glue or I apply the CA about every 5mm.  As I said, when the spray (accelerator) hits the glue...BINGO! it's set.  Accelerator is available at Amazon.  Have a great day,

Your friend,

Jerry

[DaveBaxt]

5 minutes ago, Jerry said:

Good morning, Dave...A quick reply..

I don't put the CA on the entire strip (planking, wales, decking, etc.).  I spot glue or I apply the CA about every 5mm.  As I said, when the spray (accelerator) hits the glue...BINGO! it's set.  Accelerator is available at Amazon.  Have a great day,

Your friend,

Jerry

Good morning Jerry.I have ordered some accelerator which should be with me in a couple of days. I did manage to complete the rest of the wales this morning using CA glue and just had to be patient. I found trying to do the larger wales 1.5 x 6 mm too difficult when using PVA glue and trying to keep them the correct distance from the other wales. I am now in the process of making a JIg for cutting 120mm strips for my decking. basically I have just modified my guillotine so I can quickly cut a lot of strips. I was thinking of trying to keep the colour uniform and using the lighter strips. I was also thinking of using the sand and sealer on the deck planks too. I might may some scap bits of decking strips and try the permanent marker on the edges and check it does not react with the sand & sealer before going with the model. Once the deck planking is complete I will then use the sand and sealer on everything before proceeding. I too have decided to go for the 4132 configuration. I will add some more photos when I get a chance. Best regards Dave

[Gregory]

FWIW I have used a homemade accelerator that works pretty good.  1/2 Teaspoon of baking soda in 1/4 cup of purified or distilled water. Brush it on where needed.

 

More baking soda makes it faster..

[DaveBaxt]

1 hour ago, Gregory said:

FWIW I have used a homemade accelerator that works pretty good.  1/2 Teaspoon of baking soda in 1/4 cup of purified or distilled water. Brush it on where needed.

 

More baking soda makes it faster..

Gregory Thank you for your input and that sounds like an idea I could use . I might give it a go as I have some sodium bicarbonate somewhere, not sure about the distilled water but easy enough to get my hand on some.Just for the record Gregory are you an advocate of CA glue for most jobs? best regards Dave