Brewerpaul Posted February 23, 2021 Share #1 Posted February 23, 2021 I had the channels all in place on m Pride of Baltimore, but yesterday I accidentally put a bit of pressure on one, and it came off. I had cleared paint off the area where the channels attach, then glued the channel with CA glue. I'm glad it happened before I started rigging! How can I attach them better? I'm thinking of adding a piece of square stock to the wale where the channel rests on it for more glue surface. Maybe carpenter's glue? Pinning it would be great, but the channel is too thin for me to want to drill it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Seiler Posted February 23, 2021 Share #2 Posted February 23, 2021 How thin? I used very small ( 1 or 2 mm) bamboo pegs for my channels on SULTANA and it worked great. I use that on alot of the fragile deck furniture. Drill an appropriate sized hole using a micro drill bit. I believe I used #76. Using my Dremel as a lathe (kind of) and fine sand paper (220 or 400) I work a small piece of split bamboo BBQ skewer to the correct diameter, then glue in using wood glue. Test fit first. Bamboo is very strong for its size. mtaylor 1 Quote Chuck Seiler San Diego Ship Modelers Guild Nautical Research Guild Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, John Smith Shallop Completed: Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch 1/4 scale-Model Shipways plans) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allanyed Posted February 23, 2021 Share #3 Posted February 23, 2021 Paul, CA cannot take shear stress very well so is a bad choice (my opinion only - I know there are proponents of CA who swear by it where as I swear at it) You can drill and use brass rod for pins in addition to wood glue. Rods are available to 0.01 diameter and smaller. I would smear a bit of epoxy on the pins when inserting in the channel and the hull as it will give you working time and is incredibly strong. I would also use carpenters glue on the wood surfaces as it will cure quickly and hold everything tight while the epoxy cures. You mention the channels gluing to the wales. Channels do not typically get attached to the wales but rather would be just below or just above the wales. The photo below of the modern P of B shows that they are not attached to the wales. Allan Chuck Seiler and mtaylor 2 Quote PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series. Click on http://trafalgar.tv There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time. THANK YOU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Posted February 23, 2021 Share #4 Posted February 23, 2021 i made a policy a long time ago that anything i add to the side of a hull or mast to be pinned, never had a misshap since mtaylor, Chuck Seiler and allanyed 3 Quote Its all part of Kev's journey, bit like going to the dark side, but with the lights on All the best Kevin SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS. KEEP IT REAL! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ On the build table HMS Indefatigable 1794 by Kevin - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Feb 2023 HMHS Britannic by Kevin SD 14 - Marcle Models - 1/70 - March 2022 - Bluebell - Flower Class - Revel - 1/72 U552 German U Boat - Trumpeter - 1/48 Amerigo Vespucci 1/84 - Panart- HMS Enterprise -CAF - 1/48 Finished St-Nectan-Mountfleet-models-steam-trawler-1/32 - Completed June 2020 HMS Victory - Caldercraft/Jotika - 1/72 - Finished Dorade renamed Dora by Kevin - Amati - 1/20 - Completed March 2021 Stage Coach 1848 - Artesania Latina - 1/10 -Finished Lady Eleanor by Kevin - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1/64 - Fifie fishing boat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaager Posted February 23, 2021 Share #5 Posted February 23, 2021 Looking at Kevin's picture: I have always had a mistrust of being able to get the holes to exactly match up with the dowels. I just thought of a way to do it. Use a third piece of wood. One that is as wide as the channel is thick. Make it thick enough that a drill bit has to go in perpendicular. Site the dowel locations as holes in it. Use it as the gauge to drill the holes in the hull and in the channel.. I beg forgiveness of this is standard practice already. I just solves a long standing how-to-do-it for me. Ondras71, mtaylor and Chuck Seiler 3 Quote NRG member 45 years Current: HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing HMS Beagle 1831 refiit 10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842 Flying Fish 1838 pilot schooner - framed - ready for stern timbers Porpose II 1836 brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Vincennes 1825 Sloop-of-War - timbers assembled, need shaping Peacock 1828 Sloop-of -War - timbers ready for assembly Sea Gull 1838 pilot schooner - timbers ready for assembly Relief 1835 ship - timbers ready for assembly Other Portsmouth 1843 Sloop-of-War - timbers ready for assembly Le Commerce de Marseilles 1788 118 cannons - framed La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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