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HMS Beagle by Robp1025 - OcCre - 1:60


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So update because work has been a bit a rough so it's been slow working but it's been working alright. Got the deck fittings on 20210505_095416.thumb.jpg.6449ce45c1dd2f7175704f7e3858101a.jpg

 

Now onto the life boats which created my first "I really dont want to deal with moment" lol. 20210508_142541.thumb.jpg.2d32cfa88975106a9edc25f9804c41b4.jpg

 

Planking these guys were a pain truth be told just because not being able to tack them down I didn't have a good way to keep the planks in place once I wet them. I ended up glueing them while they were wet and just holding the planks in place with my fingers when my plastic clamps weren't staying in place. I got stuck only doing a couple planks per day because it was such a pain I had to take a break else i would rush and the glue wouldn't harden enough. But they are sanded and ok but not what I want. I'm gonna use filler on the one boat that is in the middle and do the paint job on it. 20210508_145208.thumb.jpg.599509aadf31a13f4ba4f90bf944f0f6.jpg

 

The other three I'm gonna double plank with the walnut to get it a cleaner look then varnish and next time im gonna make some jig to be able to let the planks fully bend then glue them on after.

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If you end up doing more projects like this, you might consider an inexpensive planking iron. These apply heat to planks, helping them bend easily and quickly. It speeds up the process quite a bit and can eliminate or lower the need for awkward clamping and waiting for drying. That being said, tiny boats are tricky no matter what and easily can be maddening.

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2 hours ago, Cathead said:

If you end up doing more projects like this, you might consider an inexpensive planking iron. These apply heat to planks, helping them bend easily and quickly. It speeds up the process quite a bit and can eliminate or lower the need for awkward clamping and waiting for drying. That being said, tiny boats are tricky no matter what and easily can be maddening.

I plan on doing many more ships. I really do find this extremely enjoyable. Like I said in my post, this is the first time I got to the "i dont want to deal with this" kind of attitude. It's been so enjoyable and so much better than video games I cant imagine why I didn't try it soon to be honest. 

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Same here. My problem is I'm always ready for the next adventure when I'm about 80% done with the current one. Look out for "I-don't-want-to-deal-with-this-itis" when that stage comes!

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1 hour ago, Robp1025 said:

run out of 1x3 tilo

 

Sorry Rob, I don't understand? 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

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6 hours ago, Robp1025 said:

So has anyone else that has done this kit run out of 1x3 tilo because I am having that issue atm and trying to see if it will look ok with something substituted in

Yes same here, I did not have enough 1x3 for the yards. But I had a lot of extra 1x5, so I ended up splitting it down the middle and used that. If you slope the knife when splitting it, at say a 30 to 40 degree angle, then it will lay better around the yards with less gaps.

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6 hours ago, Keith Black said:

 

Sorry Rob, I don't understand? 

So looks like the kit is notorious for being short on certain parts like the 1mm brass and now the 1mm by 3mm planks for the life boats. I'm gonna have to fashion the 2 mm by 4 mm I think to get enough materials because I have about 15 extra of those @Techtonic

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8 hours ago, Robp1025 said:

So looks like the kit is notorious for being short on certain parts like the 1mm brass and now the 1mm by 3mm planks for the life boats. I'm gonna have to fashion the 2 mm by 4 mm I think to get enough materials because I have about 15 extra of those @Techtonic

I would have a good look and see how much 1x5 limewood you have. It's mixed in with the 5mm sycamore veneer which makes it hard to spot. My kit came with three 2 foot lengths of it. The only place it is used is on the long cheeks of the fore and main masts (e.g. mt69), so you  actually only need less than a foot of it.

It would be much easier to split the 1x5 into two 1x2.5 than it would to try and trim down the 2x5 (I assume you meant 2x5 not 2x4) limewood that was used for the main hull first planking.

Talking of shortages, and since you will be coming on to the masts soon - be warned that there is only just enough of the 3mm, 4mm and 5mm dowels. I ended up with just a few very short offcuts of each of these leftover by the time I'd finished the masts/yards/booms. If you make any mistakes and have to scrap a piece then you may run out. There is, however, plenty of spare 6mm dowel. I ended up with two unused full rods of it. So I guess at a pinch you could whittle this down to whatever radius you need.

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45 minutes ago, Techtonic said:

I would have a good look and see how much 1x5 limewood you have. It's mixed in with the 5mm sycamore veneer which makes it hard to spot. My kit came with three 2 foot lengths of it. The only place it is used is on the long cheeks of the fore and main masts (e.g. mt69), so you  actually only need less than a foot of it.

It would be much easier to split the 1x5 into two 1x2.5 than it would to try and trim down the 2x5 (I assume you meant 2x5 not 2x4) limewood that was used for the main hull first planking.

Talking of shortages, and since you will be coming on to the masts soon - be warned that there is only just enough of the 3mm, 4mm and 5mm dowels. I ended up with just a few very short offcuts of each of these leftover by the time I'd finished the masts/yards/booms. If you make any mistakes and have to scrap a piece then you may run out. There is, however, plenty of spare 6mm dowel. I ended up with two unused full rods of it. So I guess at a pinch you could whittle this down to whatever radius you need.

I actually purchase spare 3 4 and 5mm dowels already in anticipation of this because wether I had enough or not I knew I would make mistakes. I think I might have enough if it's only needing a foot worth of the 1x5. Thank for the heads up I really do appreciate it!

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So I decided to put the life boats down and get some of the rest of the decorations done so got these all done and finished the life boat in the center.

20210511_221449.thumb.jpg.3db45dc24b57cc54f227df4dab091c1c.jpg

 

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This is really quite an enjoyable build tbh. I'm for sure happy with the way the rope that is tieing down the life boat came out. 

 

20210511_235952.thumb.jpg.3d252be225cc746c48d9b3f9ca7efa24.jpg

 

Once that was done I broke my first part of the ship....

 

20210512_012913.thumb.jpg.e3d73a7fb1f5e4c3fa6f1dabb475a288.jpg

 

Patched it pretty quick but I need to finish the outfittings here then I'll touch the paint up. 20210512_021450.thumb.jpg.2d48170d1dfd5636639d29639186f1a4.jpg

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Pedantic alert, those aren't really lifeboats, but rather work boats. Their primary purpose wasn't lifesaving or safety, but rather as auxiliary craft for all sorts of everyday needs. For example, a research paper on Beagle's boats (delightfully titled "The Beagle's Pups") notes that she "carried seven open boats of varying types, which were employed in surveys of waters which the ship could not reach." Other uses would have included carrying water casks to and from shore (along with other provisions), towing the ship during calms, allowing harbor access when quays weren't available, and so on.

 

Just mentioning this as you've expressed an interest in learning as you go. 

 

You're continuing to make great progress!

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Looking great, I wouldn"t worry to much on the damages , they seem to happen every so often. I think when we work in the confininggarea of a model it just lends itself to bumping  etc. Just the other day I realised I should not be wearing my watch as it seems to snag on all the rigging etc

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@Cathead I love the knowledge snippet!! I had my suspicions but I was so busy recently I haven't done much research and went with my best description. 

 

@Pete D that for sure is something I'm concerned about when it comes to rigging. I know damage will come and it isn't too hard to fix I would say. As long as I dont drop it and cause a huge issue...*knocks on wood profusely*

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 Rob, the mast holes are already drilled aren't they? Making the mast is a fun task, I hope you enjoy it.   

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

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1 hour ago, Keith Black said:

 Rob, the mast holes are already drilled aren't they? Making the mast is a fun task, I hope you enjoy it.   

For mounting the bowsprit it's not atleast when I was building I didn't see any but maybe I was suppose to leave something?? I'm not sure but either way. 

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 Sorry, Rob. If I only knew how to read ...... "So starting on the bowsprit gonna see how this goes because I never made this big of a hole in the hull before"

 You have to drill the hole for the bowsprit. Start with a tiny hole and work your way up to the finished hole size. 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

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3 hours ago, Robp1025 said:

For mounting the bowsprit it's not atleast when I was building I didn't see any but maybe I was suppose to leave something?? I'm not sure but either way. 

The instructions on this one lack a bit of foresight. It would be easier to have cut the planking to leave a hole, which could then be widened to allow the bowsprit to fit in. There is a hole in the false keel where it is supposed to go. They don't really tell you that though. Good luck! The bowsprit on the Beagle is quite impressive and will add a lot

 

Previous builds: HMS Bounty's Launch (Model Shipways), USS Albatros (OcCre)

 

Current build: HMS Beagle (OcCre)

 

Future builds: HMB Endeavour (Caldercraft), De Zeven Provinciën (Kolderstok), HMS Victory (Caldercraft/De Agostini/Artesania Latina/Corel)

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5 hours ago, LucienL said:

The instructions on this one lack a bit of foresight. It would be easier to have cut the planking to leave a hole, which could then be widened to allow the bowsprit to fit in. There is a hole in the false keel where it is supposed to go. They don't really tell you that though. Good luck! The bowsprit on the Beagle is quite impressive and will add a lot

I'm excited for this part. It for sure will be interesting to say the least. I cant wait to see the true size of this ship!!

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8 hours ago, Keith Black said:

 Sorry, Rob. If I only knew how to read ...... "So starting on the bowsprit gonna see how this goes because I never made this big of a hole in the hull before"

 You have to drill the hole for the bowsprit. Start with a tiny hole and work your way up to the finished hole size. 

Yea that's my going plan. Will take it nice and slow that is for sure

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Alright so I made some good progress today.

 

So found a darker stain that I liked and will be going with this for the masts and bowsprit and all. After that got all the tieing done on the blocks which came out great.

 

20210519_173513.thumb.jpg.a0bb356990f32cfb1afbcb7949d8993e.jpg20210519_173505.thumb.jpg.a425a31c629d0f24568a6455e945f362.jpg

Got some of the final details checked and double checked with the diagram. 

20210519_204815.thumb.jpg.3baf745b224e2c0e6c067cf9a80b4247.jpg20210519_204843.thumb.jpg.252b2b963946e1070f794a1dfe73c6e6.jpg

 

then I used my trusty old dremel to help get the hole drilled after I started it. Turns out the I did leave the opening for the bowsprit without even knowing lol. I didn't get a picture because I'm stupid but yea I have dry fitting pictures and also pictures of the final glued insert.

20210519_215706.thumb.jpg.ee66a79c1dc107270187e96fc1f5908d.jpg20210519_223948.thumb.jpg.58d4189b03894da0f89422c1a25213f2.jpg20210519_224004.thumb.jpg.1e803a0730b460f463257ef1dcd8e956.jpg20210519_223957.thumb.jpg.9413e75e9ee68a450562a7e863649c14.jpg

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 Rob, they attach just to the rear of the martingale/dolphin striker as seen below. They might be optional but if they were you would think they wouldn't show them in their finished model literature. 

 

image.png

Edited by Keith Black

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

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55 minutes ago, Robp1025 said:

Also someone want to tell me where these are in the build because I searched the whole instruction manual and I saw it no where.

 

20210519_232548.jpg

Those are the spreaders I think. They point out from the bowsprit

image.png.4dc890d34f5212f43598e3bb6a9374b7.png

It looks like they should be able to hook on some eyebolts on the bowsprit, it seems like the rigging diagrams are a little tricky to follow though

 

Previous builds: HMS Bounty's Launch (Model Shipways), USS Albatros (OcCre)

 

Current build: HMS Beagle (OcCre)

 

Future builds: HMB Endeavour (Caldercraft), De Zeven Provinciën (Kolderstok), HMS Victory (Caldercraft/De Agostini/Artesania Latina/Corel)

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Ah whoops, @Keith Black's response must not have loaded for me

 

Previous builds: HMS Bounty's Launch (Model Shipways), USS Albatros (OcCre)

 

Current build: HMS Beagle (OcCre)

 

Future builds: HMB Endeavour (Caldercraft), De Zeven Provinciën (Kolderstok), HMS Victory (Caldercraft/De Agostini/Artesania Latina/Corel)

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