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Posted

Hi all, 

I'm getting to the exciting part of building my first model H.M. Pickle

After a little fine sanding on deck, I was able to seat the main mast and it sits firm and true. However, I've just made a start on the foremast and although it sits at the correct angle (bow to stern) and is deep enough according to the plans, it is not sitting in anything and is easy to move around, especially port to starboard.

I know that the rigging will tighten the mast up and stabilise it, but has anyone any other advise?

I've seen other modellers making chocks for their masts but don't really want to start that if I can help it.....

 

Thanks 

Posted (edited)

I don't know about the Pickle specifically, but typically the mast rests on the false keel. If so just glue the mast to the false keel to keep it in position. As you probably have figured out, for a next build it is always a good idea to address the positioning of masts before you start planking the hull by building a receptacle. Often same extra wood on either side of the false keel will do.

Edited by PietFriet

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Posted
On 3/23/2021 at 7:25 PM, PietFriet said:

I don't know about the Pickle specifically, but typically the mast rests on the false keel. If so just glue the mast to the false keel to keep it in position. As you probably have figured out, for a next build it is always a good idea to address the positioning of masts before you start planking the hull by building a receptacle. Often same extra wood on either side of the false keel will do.

Thanks for your reply. I like your suggestion about checking the mast before decking and planking which is what I thought I had done!

As mentioned, the mainmast slots in perfectly. I can feel it being held on all sides but for some reason the foremast just doesn't want to sit as it should - and I'm not about to cut a hole in the deck to find out what is wrong!!!

I have a couple of ideas to see if I can pack the hole below but it won't be easy! 

Posted

You could get a tight fitting mast coat, secure it to the upper deck and then hold in place with shrouds.

 

Regards,

Jim Rogers

 

Damn the Torpedoes , Full speed ahead.   Adm David Farragut.

Posted

An old method is to use a cutoff sharp end of a nail.  Drill a hole in the bottom end of the mast. Insert the cut end of the nail into the hole and have just enough of the point sticking out to seat into the "deadwood".  If you had cut the slot for the mast too deep, a longer piece of nail can be used to raise the mast a bit.

The size of the nail depends on how large of a hole is drilled into the end of the mast.

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Posted

Similar to Jaager, I used a cut-off brad inserted into the bottom of the mast, and drilled a matching hole in a block at the keel. On my Victory cross-section, right from the beginning, I glued a piece of 1/16" walnut sheet across the top, from one side of the hull to the other, with a matching hole for the mast. In all stages of construction, from when I first started the hull until the net to last deck went on, I've simply slid the mast in place and used it as a guide to placing of support members and openings on all decks. By the time I got to the upper gun deck, the mast was held securely and accurately in place by the pin a the decks above it, so could remove the walnut piece.

Posted
On 3/25/2021 at 10:18 AM, Jaager said:

An old method is to use a cutoff sharp end of a nail.  Drill a hole in the bottom end of the mast. Insert the cut end of the nail into the hole and have just enough of the point sticking out to seat into the "deadwood".  If you had cut the slot for the mast too deep, a longer piece of nail can be used to raise the mast a bit.

The size of the nail depends on how large of a hole is drilled into the end of the mast.

I use the pin method for securing yards to the masts. It never occurred to me to set the mast with a pin. Thanks for the tip.

Posted

Many thanks for all your responses. I certainly like the idea of a pin/nail in the foot of the mast. It does seem to be the best solution.

 

End of term report "The pupil must pay more attention to the details of his work. He shows promise but there is a long way to go".!!!

 

 

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