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Posted

Maybe a little inventory help if any one knows. 
I did an inventory of all the remaining parts in the kit and pinpointed where almost everything remaining goes. Not a lot left in the box. 
I have two matching pieces that I cannot locate in the instructions or in Longridge’s book. If any of you guys could give me a hint I would greatly appreciate it. 
I have two pieces numbered #56. In the instructions part list they are named Foresail boom. However I find no where on the instructions where I am to use them. 

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Posted

No sign of them on the IMAI instructions either. A design change as they went along, meaning now surplus to requirements?

Kevin

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/ktl_model_shop

 

Current projects:

HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller / Scratch, kind of active, depending on the alignment of the planets)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

Cutty Sark 1:96 (More scratch than Revell, parked for now)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Soleil Royal 1:100 (Heller..... and probably some bashing. The one I'm not supposed to be working on yet)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36944-le-soleil-royal-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic/

 

Posted (edited)

Hi Bill, those are actually misnamed booms for the main lower studding sails.  They attach to the eye and crutch on the main channels as shown in step 28 "Various Assembly" (also shows the boat davits).

 

There should also be booms for the fore lower studding sails however Heller omitted them. They don't seem to attach permanently to the fore channels, probably because attempts to stow them swung back like the main booms would be obstructed by the sheet anchors. I presume they were rigged when needed. I made two (lengths are in Longridge) and lashed them down between the boat skid beams.

Edited by Ian_Grant
Posted

Finished all the lower shrouds on the 3 masts. As I mentioned earlier I am going to wait until much later to do the ratlines so as to improve access for other rigging. I can’t decide if I am confident enough to go ahead and permanently tie off the lanyards. Not sure if the standing rigging stays will cause the shrouds to get a little slack and have to be tightened with the lanyards. 

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Posted

Looking good Bill, fabulous in fact - very busy in there. Step 28... completely missed that too. But I did manage to download a much, much cleaner copy of the Heller instructions along the way

 

The shrouds look fantastic from an end view, very in keeping scale wise etc.

Kevin

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/ktl_model_shop

 

Current projects:

HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller / Scratch, kind of active, depending on the alignment of the planets)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

Cutty Sark 1:96 (More scratch than Revell, parked for now)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Soleil Royal 1:100 (Heller..... and probably some bashing. The one I'm not supposed to be working on yet)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36944-le-soleil-royal-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic/

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Been away from the shipyard for a few days but finally back at it. Worked on the main stay and the main preventer stay and also the fore stay and fore preventer stay. Don’t tell anyone but I gave up on trying to make a mouse for each stay and settled for simply using a black seed bead. I am satisfied with it. As with the shrouds I am leaving the lanyards loose for now per chance I need to tighten later. Still need to add the snaking. 

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Posted (edited)

Ian I made a few day trip down to Florida to see family, a little warm weather, and the ocean (actually Gulf of Mexico). 

Thought about wrapping the beads in thread. May still do that. 

Progress seems slow now. All my work today was used up seizing four stays, attaching seed beads, making closed hearts, and rigging it up to the Main and Fore mast. 

Edited by Bill97
Posted

I guess it’s probably a bit of a grind at times, doing this day after day Bill. But it’s coming along nicely from where I’m sat.

Kevin

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/ktl_model_shop

 

Current projects:

HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller / Scratch, kind of active, depending on the alignment of the planets)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

Cutty Sark 1:96 (More scratch than Revell, parked for now)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Soleil Royal 1:100 (Heller..... and probably some bashing. The one I'm not supposed to be working on yet)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36944-le-soleil-royal-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic/

 

Posted

I plan to use the idea you guys shared about using a pin in the back of the yards to invisibly attach them to the masts and then add the parrals and other rigging attachments. I realized before I get to far into adding the stays and preventer stays I need to drill the corresponding holes in the masts to go with the pins in the yards. If I waited to long I would not be able to get the drill lined up correctly. So I am pausing on the stays until I get all the yard mounting pins and holes set up complete. I will then put the yards aside and get back to the stays. 

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Posted

Opinion as to when OK to fully tighten and touch a little glue on shroud and stay lanyards?  I now have all the lower shrouds installed on all 3 masts and the lower stays and preventer stays installed on 3 masts. I am thinking at this point it should be appropriate to meticulously tighten all the lanyards to this point to lock down the lower portion of the masts. All the remaining stays are above this point and should be based on a solid lower masts. Am I correct?  Any reason to postpone final tightening of these lower lanyards?

Posted

Not in photos, but if you have rigged the mizzen stay and preventer the only other things I can think of at the moment are the main topmast stays which attach to deck behind foremast. Might be easier to get in there with loose/detachable shrouds.

Posted
Posted

Put on all the top mast shrouds. Decided I needed to do this before attaching the top mast stays and preventer stays since their upper ends loop around and over the shroud tops. As with the lower shrouds, I served the center portion of each shroud pair where it wraps around the mast. Ian based on your spread sheet I used .35mm thread for the mizzen top mast shrouds. I served them as well but found that to be a bit of a challenge because the thread is so small. They came out all right but maybe not perfect. I coated the top mast pendants with diluted white glue and hung weight on them to get them to hang more naturally when dry. I have to decide next to move on to attaching the shrouds to the deadeyes or continue now working on all the stays. 

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Posted

Looks eminently suitable, Bill. And it remains fascinating to see you working through this, bit by bit. The sheer amount of labour required for rigging gets completely lost from view when someone simply does a “ta-da” reveal and for beginners like me the step by step coverage is going to be invaluable.

Kevin

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/ktl_model_shop

 

Current projects:

HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller / Scratch, kind of active, depending on the alignment of the planets)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

Cutty Sark 1:96 (More scratch than Revell, parked for now)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Soleil Royal 1:100 (Heller..... and probably some bashing. The one I'm not supposed to be working on yet)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36944-le-soleil-royal-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic/

 

Posted

Thank you Kevin. Your compliments are very much appreciated. I would have to say you are very far past being a beginner!  I am following your CS build and find your work fascinating. The wood and pins little set up I have in the photo is the result of numerous experiments along the way. This method seems to work the best for me. I use clips and pins in the lower deadeyes to lock the piece of wood in position and then stretch a shroud across the face of each lower deadeye and mark the wood between the two drawn lines (predawn for the distance I want the deadeyes spaced). This establishes the correct angle of the upper and lower deadeyes. Once marked I then pin the upper deadeyes to the wood at the mark between the lines. Now I just go back and tie each shroud to the appropriate upper deadeye. The pins hold everything tight so I can snug the shrouds up taut. I rotate back and forth between port and SB doing each pair instead of doing all on one side first. This helps me keep the mast vertical. Sometimes I have to use two pins in an upper deadeye to keep the 3 little holes correctly lined up. I also use a little piece of tape to number each shroud. Once I pull the pins and the wood all the shrouds hang loose until I do the lanyards. 

Posted

The the top mast shrouds for the main mast are complete with the lanyards left loose similar to the lanyards on the lower shrouds. I think I am going to complete the main mast standing rigging before moving to the foremast and mizzenmast. So I am about to undertake something I have never been before. I have to attach futtock staves on the lower and top mast shrouds. I have to do the futtock shrouds and the catherpins. And then finally the main top gallant shrouds. I will probably still postpone the ratlines to closer to finish. 

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Posted

Bill I'm not sure if you're implying that the lower shrouds are not fully tightened yet, but they need to be before you add futtocks and catharpins.

 

She's looking great!

Posted

In #948 I only meant it might be easier for you to attach things that attach near the feet of the masts before final shroud tightening. Once you are happy with whatever is left to reach in at, shrouds should be tightened. Definitely before catharpins and futtocks. Good luck! 😉

Posted

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