R/C ...WHAT TYPE OF GLUE SHOULD BE USED???

[Cap'n Rat Fink]

HI ALL,

   I AM PREPPING FOR MY FIRST EVER R/C SCRATCH BUILD. I PLAN ON USING ELMER WOOD GLUE FOR THE BUILD. I WOULD THINK THIS WOULD BE OK FOR BUILDING MY NEW BOAT. JUST AS LONG AS THE MODEL IS SEALED PROPERLY (AKA WATER SEALED).

 

TO YOU ALL EXPERIENCE R/C BUILDERS WOULD THIS BE OK OR SHOULD I USE A DIFFERENT TYPE OF GLUE???

 

I HAVE NO EXPERIENCE WITH R/C'n SO I WILL BE ASKING A LOT OF QUESTIONS AS I PROGRESS ALONG. MAINLY ON HOW TO PUT THE RUNNING GEAR TOGETHER, BUT THAT IS A BIT DOWN THE ROAD AS OF YET.

 

RIGHT NOW ALL I NEED IS THE GLUE SITUATION SETTLED. THANKS YOU ALL FOR LOOKING IN ON MY QUESTION......

 

[qwerty2008]

I use whatever glue that I would use on a static model but I make sure that I coat the entire hull in fiberglass resin to seal it.

Also the bigger the model the easier to RC. I built the HMS Sovereign of the Seas in 1/100 scale now I Know that was way to small hence why I stopped working on it and started on the much larger 1/20 scale Byzantium.

 

Lextin.

Edited July 22, 2013 by qwerty2008

[JerryTodd]

I use Tightbond III for wood-to-wood joints, and epoxy everywhere else.

[Nirvana]

I have also used the Titebond III building a deck hatch for my T37, once all was dried I went over it with Z-span varnish from West Marine.

Put it the sink submerged for 24 hours, took it out had it air dry. No peeling and all was good.

 

Much easier and less messy than epoxy.

However, I think I still make sure to join all the wood parts for hull with epoxy.

Water and some glues doesn't work together. Experiment with other pieces first before building the hull.

Have fun and show us picture of your build.

[Cap'n Rat Fink]

THANK YOU ALL FOR THE INPUT. I HAVE PLENTY MORE QUESTION TO COME. SINCE I KNOW NOTHING OF R/C'n.....

[FreekS]

The glue is not the only thing that's important. The hull, when wood, needs to be sealed as otherwise a scratch in the paint can lead to swelling of the hull. Epoxy or polyurethane resins are commonly used for that. Both will need final coatings to prevent discolouration due to UV light.

 

Freek

[Bernhard]

Question do you also varnish the inside of the boat, or is this to difficult?

[captainbob]

Mix epoxy or polyester resin 50/50 with alcohol and paint the inside with that.  When the alcohol evaporates it will leave a thin layer of the epoxy which is more durable then varnish.

 

Bob

[Mike40]

Has anyone used hot hide glue on their models?

[AndrewNaylor]

"Git Rot"  (Hardware stores) is my go to. Fiberglass resin is quite thick where as GR is much thinner and socks right through the layers bonding every thing together forming a solid waterproof unit.

Andy

[cdnfurball]

I also use tite- Bond as well..   then use 3/4 oz fiberglass brushed on with a 2 part epoxy on the exterior of the hull.  I do seal the inside as well with the 2 part epoxy.      One quick lil suggestion, paint the inside of the hull in a flat finish paint. If you get a " shiny " spot....    chances are, it's a water issue.

[FoxtrotHotel]

On 7/22/2013 at 3:44 PM, qwerty2008 said:

but I make sure that I coat the entire hull in fiberglass resin to seal it.

 

Lextin.

That would definitely seal it, but doesn't fiberglass resin add a ton of bulk that loses detail and drastically change the color of the wood? I watched an application video for Bondo's fiberglass resin on Youtube and after curing it requires heavy sanding to get it smooth, and even then it's not clear but some sort of brown/orange color. Couldn't you use a generic acrylic clear coat designed for wood?