Any other Glowforge laser cutter/etcher users?

[Tim Holt]

Anyone else using one of these? 

 

I have access to a Glowforge via a Makerspace at work (large tech company), and lately have been experimenting with various hardwoods in it.   Like probably anyone using a laser cutter, char (burnt) edges is a common issue.  But then so is not cutting all the way through, which means a part can't be separated out.

 

One thing I've sort of learned through trial and error is that sometimes the answer is to turn down the power of the laser rather than speed up the cutting.  Initially I kept just pushing up the cut speed, but it proved to be more effective for the wood I have to use a lower power on the laser (from 100%) instead.  Still experimenting, though getting closer to a good cut setting for thin (1.6mm) hard maple.

 

 

[Charter33]

Hi,

I used to also have access to a laser cutter at work - and really miss it now!

One way that I found to reduce char was to drop the power level and then repeat the cut several times until separation was achieved. It didn't stop the charring completely, but did reduce it considerably.

Good luck!

Graham.

[Gregory]

Does Glowforge have air assist?   It will reduce charring somewhat.

 

I have found the amount of charring has the most to do with the type of wood and how seasoned it is.

 

 

 

[mtaylor]

I'm not a Glowforge user but I do have a laser.    I've found the slow and low seems to work best though there are happy spots with high speeds and higher power.  Also, after firing up the laser and before trying to cut, I run a test piece of the same wood and thickness through just cutting some straight lines and dial in from there.   

 

As for multiple passes, I don't recommend them as a laser isn't an entirely straight cut.  If you look close, it's a "V" and the "V" gets wider with the more passes one makes.

 

The times I've had where the laser didn't cut all the way through I've been able to salvage the part with a scroll saw and a very thin blade.

 

Depending on the laser and the amount of use, I find it wise to check the mirrors for smoke residue.  Periodically, they do need re-aligning which again depends on use. 

[Gregory]

4 minutes ago, mtaylor said:

The times I've had where the laser didn't cut all the way through I've been able to salvage the part with a scroll saw and a very thin blade.

 

Before I had my 40w C02, I used a low power laser for scoring on anything thicker than 1/32, followed up with a scroll saw, which tended to follow the scoring.

[mtaylor]

3 minutes ago, Gregory said:

 

Before I had my 40w C02, I used a low power laser for scoring on anything thicker than 1/32, followed up with a scroll saw, which tended to follow the scoring.

I did that myself intentionally for my Belle Poule carvings. They're so tiny that the char was leaving next to nothing to carve.

[Tim Holt]

Experimentation definitely does pay off. 

9 hours ago, Gregory said:

Does Glowforge have air assist?   It will reduce charring somewhat.

 

No direct air assist but it does have an integrated exhaust fan as it's a closed case.  We have it hooked up to an air exhaust system at work to pull the smoke out.  It's pretty aggressive at pulling the smoke off, but doesn't blow directly onto the cut.  The cutting bed is a raised metal honeycomb and the air pulls down from below, which means plenty of smoke until the cut is all the way through.

 

Just doing some reading and it seems some people are making mods to their Glowforges to add air assist.  I may have to look into this!

 

 

[Gregory]

Something to keep in mind:

 

I rarely include tabs  on my parts to be cut after the laser is done.  With no tabs, air assist can blow small parts around, to end up in the exhaust or in the path of the laser down range. 

 

Air assist is more useful for me on thicker stock, greater than 1/16..