HMS Victory by kostas_gr - Corel - 1:98

[kostas_gr]

Along with victory cross section, that is almost done, the time has come to start HMS Victory.

Corel's kit is a bit old (at least the one I have) and probably I will have to make a lot of improvements/modifications

 

while building the hull, I have noticed that many parts did not fit very well, hull beams are looking quite old and  dry

 

 

 

 

I had to fill the gaps almost in every hull beam

[kostas_gr]

deck planks were cut in 10 cm each and the caulking was made with soft black pencil.

 I have marked the deck with parallel squares just to ensure the right positioning of the deck planks. In some occasions I have to make micro adjustments to keep them in a straight line

 

always planking from center toward sides

 

Half done

 

need some sanding, caulking looking good for this scale (1:98) will be darker when oil is applied

 

with half deck oiled the difference is obvious!!!

 

[kostas_gr]

for deck planking I have choosen the "rule of 4", using 10cm planks. But unfortunately I couldnt avoid mistakesand had to redo some planks

 

 

 

 

almost done, the new planks are few tones brighter than the old ones, I guess I ll have to wait to see how are they look after oiling

[kostas_gr]

crates are in place, worinkg on upper deck

[kostas_gr]

in order to make sure that all planks are aligned, I am drawing a grid and trying to align deck planks

 

after few hours the deck is comming nicelly

[kostas_gr]

 

I have to remove these blocks before finishing upper deck. Is not written into instructions but I am pretty sure are useless

Actually I had to work on third block too, I didnt do it in time, so in later step I have to make corrections

[allanyed]

Kostas, I agree with you that you were better off to remove the stubs of the bulkheads.  The moulded dimension of the top of the top timbers of the Victory  is about 5.5" to 7" depending if at the waist, QD, or FC so about 0.06" (1.5mm) at your scale.     

 

I love that you are not trying to show treenails on the deck planking as they would have to be 0.008", nearly impossible to make and look good.

 

Your gratings look far better than seen in the majority of other kit builds. Did you make these are they from the kit?    It is hard to tell from the photos, but the openings would be about 0.03" (0.8mm) or less at your scale.  These look to be maybe a little large, but hard to tell from the photos.  

 

Will you be following the planking tutorials here at MSW when you plank the hull?

 

I look forward to your next progress posting.

Allan

[kostas_gr]

Thank you for your remarks.

I have tried treenails in lower deck .... disaster!!!!

Gratings are made from kit, but the frames I used darker timber and I have trimmed the top of the frames becouse I didnt liked them to look perfect square.

I have used different methods in my 2 previous builds, I am not sure which one I will follow. Actually I am not thinking of using brass plates in lower hull.

I have already finished first layer, I will post pictures soon.

I am monitoring 3-4 build logs at MSW for HMS Victory, but I have to decide which steps I will follow, some of them are quite complicated for me

[kostas_gr]

Working on first layer planking hull

 

After the first basic plank, I will place 2 more.

The first 3 rows are placed in full length/height from bow to stern

 

 

[kostas_gr]

first layer of the left side almost done

 

[kostas_gr]

 

I have decided to make stern planking in two steps

[kostas_gr]

working on quarter deck details from scratch

[kostas_gr]

first layer of hull planking is almost finished. I have marked with pencil the gunholes just before start drilling

[kostas_gr]

First hole to be drilled have to be in the center of portholes, in order to be used for the cannon barels

next step, maiking several holes around frame to make easier the opening ports

In many portholes there was a missmatch with the wooden axis for the gun barrels, so I had to check and fix all the portholes

Next step was to attach the frames, in this step it was the rigth moment to measure and correct the size and the position of the portholes

[kostas_gr]

Corel's Stern galleries are outdated or poor, so I will try to apply some fixes before painting

Starting with windows...

 

Corel's kit is providing a yellowish trasnparent sheet with the windows rails printed, so I decided to install new ones.

 

After many hours, finally all windows rails in place.

Next step will be the fisrt coat of painting using airbrush, in order to aply the less (thinner) paint as possible for the Gallery carvings

[kostas_gr]

 

On the  the right gallery, I have placed frames around windows, now they are looking more realistic.

I have already paint gallery parts  yellowish before installing the frames, So I will have to repaint them

 

The carvings on the side galleries (red arrows) are not present on the HMS Victory, so I have to remove them

Edited January 6, 2023 by kostas_gr

[kostas_gr]

Stern gallerie after painting, I need to correct some spots... I will fix them once is placed on hull

 

after the removal of the carvings, I have to redo the outside frames to match with the rest

[kostas_gr]

I am starting planking placing with wales first. The position is marked on hull, to avoid missplacing. (red arrrows)

 

I had to use bamboo sticks, to stabilize the upper side deck, couse I got tired to repair it again n again. (green arrows)

[kostas_gr]

[allanyed]

Hi Kostas

Thank you for sharing your build, it is a pleasure to follow your nice work.

Are the stern and gallery lights (windows) from the kit?   The reason I ask is that the stern lights have nine panes in each light rather than the six shown in post #17 and I believe the gallery lights have two rows with six panes and the lower row with nine panes.   I realize this may be a kit design error.

 

Allan

 

Edited January 19, 2023 by allanyed

[kostas_gr]

Hi Allan.

The kit is outdated with many errors. There where no panels for the windows, the kit had a yellowish transparent film, with the panels painted in black

***the pictures are taken from Sheerline's post  

I wasnt pleased with the outcome (using kit instructions), so I tried to scratch build them.

When I tried to create 9 panels (like in the original ship) it was almost impossible, maybe I should have tried a different technique..., so I did 6 panels per window and looked not tha bad.

The kit has a lot of outdated (or wrong) details and I knew I couldnt fix them all.

 

 

[allanyed]

Yes, making the framing for the lights is a challenge at any scale from about 1:48 and smaller.   I have even used wire for an experiment at 1:196.  At 1:98 the frame parts would be something like 0.01X0.015 so can be done with a good hard wood like box or someother tight grained hard wood.  For the future, maybe consider plastic frames.  There are styrene strips available at 0.010" X 0.02" that might work for you.   It can be mortised with out breaking for a good fit of the parts.   I like to make a template for each light then make and assemble the muntons and stiles on the template.  Once the framework is complete you can glue a clear plastic piece to the inboard side of the finished unit then glue the entire assembly in place.  Just be sure to have a ledge of some sort in the light opening to support the assembly when it is placed and glued in place.  It is a challenge to be sure, but they are a very visible and noticeable part of any model so worth the time and effort to make them as neatly as possible for many folks.

Allan

 

[kostas_gr]

Thank you for your valid points, to be honest I should have tried styrene strips or even better to ask from a friend for a 3d printing....

I have started the second layer of planking, so new challenges ahead

 

 

[kostas_gr]

Planking the hull using 9cm walnut planks, using the "rule of three" ( 9cm : 3 =3cm space from row to row).

for the wales I have used 15cm planks (with rule of three)

 

there is color differences among the planks, especialy from the wales and above, sometimes becouse of the wood itself, sometimes becouse I have used more heat (using iron heater) than needed in order to bend them.

I will paint them black-yellow later, so it doesnt matter, but from the wales and below I will keep the nature wooden color so I choose walnut stripes that are similar (colorwise)

 

[kostas_gr]

working on second layer of hull planking

some gunports arent finished, so may look smaller. Stern galleries will need some repairs and definately a repaint (scheduled with hull painting)

 

 

[Katsumoto]

Hi Kostas!

You're working on a great model and doing a wonderful job on this Corel kit. Keep up the great work and don't mind the color difference between the planks it will pass in time due UV light.

 

regards,
Peter

[kostas_gr]

On 2/17/2023 at 10:40 AM, Katsumoto said:

Hi Kostas!

You're working on a great model and doing a wonderful job on this Corel kit. Keep up the great work and don't mind the color difference between the planks it will pass in time due UV light.

 

regards,
Peter

I have used some extra walnut strips for wales and the color is a bit darker, so I hope UV light will do the work. The hull section above waterline will be painted, so I dont really mind.

[kostas_gr]

hull planking in progress... almost half way done

 

[kostas_gr]

close pictures for the bow & stern

[allanyed]

Your planking is exemplary.  It is a pleasure to see planking done as was done in actual practice rather than the fantasy planking seen so often.

 

Regarding the wales, they were commonly black, so yours being darker is probably a good thing.

 

Allan

Edited March 24, 2023 by allanyed