HMS Spartiate by Admiral Beez - Heller - 1/150 - PLASTIC - kit-bashing the Heller Le Superbe

[TomRigg]

If there were more 1/150 scale Napoleonic ships around I'd get them.

Then all I'd need is a gymnasium floor and a worthy opponent

Tom

[Admiral Beez]

8 hours ago, TomRigg said:

If there were more 1/150 scale Napoleonic ships around I'd get them.

Then all I'd need is a gymnasium floor and a worthy opponent

Tom

We’re truly bereft of plastic kits at any scale of the Royal Navy’s Napoleonic-era warships.   There’s at least four plastic kits of HMS Victory:

 

https://uk.airfix.com/products/hms-victory-a09252v

https://www.heller.fr/en/80897-hms-victory-1000808970

https://www.revell.de/en/products/modelmaking/ships/sailings-ships/h-m-s-victory.html

https://www.revell.de/en/products/modelmaking/ships/sailings-ships/hms-victory.html

 

And that’s it. No frigates or other ships of the line.   I suppose we have HMS Bounty, but that’s no warship.  Which of course is why Heller’s Le Superbe of the France’s Téméraire-class stands in for HMS Spartiate.  It’s a good thing that the Royal Navy captured so many of her sisters.  

 

Edited October 2, 2023 by Admiral Beez

[Admiral Beez]

Masts coming together.  

 

[Admiral Beez]

I used my Dremel and a scribe tool to create a channel in the mizzenmast to hold a 1mm carbon fibre rod.  It’s much too bendy without it.   I can’t safely cut a channel into the topmasts and topgallant masts for adding carbon fibre rods, so I’ll just make sure that the standing rigging pulls evenly.  I will hide a carbon fibre rod underneath each yard.

These cheap mini clamps are a great help. 

Edited November 10, 2023 by Admiral Beez

[Admiral Beez]

This kit is frustratingly poorly made.  The holes in the deck for the fore and mainmasts are too big, and too small for the mizzenmast.  I guess I was supposed to install the mizzenmast before I affixed the poopdeck, but that’s no where in the instructions.

 

 

Edited November 10, 2023 by Admiral Beez

[greenskin]

Hi Admiral Beez,

I know the frustration - I'm about to fix masts on my Le Superbe soon and noticed the same thing.

[Admiral Beez]

I used my Dremel's cone bit to widen the hole for the mizzenmast.   I have also used CA (Cyanoacrylate) super glue to attach 0.5 mm carbon fibre rods to the fore, main and mizzen topmasts and topgallant masts.   I think once I fill, sand, prime and paint the masts the rods will not be very visible, and will give a little resistance to the rigging.  I will be affixing 1.0 mm rods under each yard, as they are less visible.

   

Edited November 8, 2023 by Admiral Beez

[Admiral Beez]

On 11/6/2023 at 8:59 AM, greenskin said:

Hi Admiral Beez,

I know the frustration - I'm about to fix masts on my Le Superbe soon and noticed the same thing.

There must be sufficient demand in the modeling community for a Napoleonic War 74 gun ship of the line for a company to supply a better plastic kit.    But no.... it's Superbe (and its clone https://www.heller.fr/en/80889-le-glorieux-1000808890) or nothing.

Edited November 8, 2023 by Admiral Beez

[greenskin]

Yup, it's sad, that in this price range there are only two of them and they are clones. It's my first attempt of assembling model of a ship, so I don't have comparison, but I love it. It gives me a lot of fun. Unfortunately, I don't have conditions to build a wooden kit, so I take what's out there with gratitude. I think that my next project will be Cutty Sark from Revell and then HMS Victory from Heller. As with my current build (Le Superbe), I plan to make the rigging and sails on the Cutty Sark more detailed, than the manufacturer designed.

[Admiral Beez]

17 hours ago, greenskin said:

Yup, it's sad, that in this price range there are only two of them and they are clones. It's my first attempt of assembling model of a ship, so I don't have comparison, but I love it.

I think this is the last plastic sailing ship I'm going to make.   The masts and yards are just too bendy.  Heller should have cast these parts in resin or something more rigid.   I'll still make plastic ships, but no more sailing craft.    Mind you, it's taken me three years to get to this point.... so we'll see.

Edited November 9, 2023 by Admiral Beez

[greenskin]

Plastic is bendy indeed, but resin is no good either. I have some experience with painting resin cast minis and can assure you that yards with this thickness cast in resin will brake in first 5 minutes after taking out of the box.

If they invested in better plastic, I think it would be greater improvement.

[Admiral Beez]

@greenskin true points.  Several builders swap out the masts and yards for wooden ones.   But that's beyond my level of commitment and skill.    

 

I've just finished priming the carbon fibre reinforced masts.    Always make sure to wear a ventilator and work in a room with an extraction fan, like a small bathroom.  Work continues....

 

 

Edited November 9, 2023 by Admiral Beez

[TomRigg]

Would 3D printing work?

Not that I know how (or know anyone who could) 

Tom

[Admiral Beez]

I don't think so, the masts would be even weaker than plastic.  I'm probably over thinking it, and my ship would have looked fine with the masts as is.   But this is my experimental or training project,  so I am trying different ideas. 

 

Masts now primed.   The mizzen topmast and topgallant masts are crooked, but I'll see what I can do with rigging to make it straight.

 

Edited November 13, 2023 by Admiral Beez

[Admiral Beez]

On 11/9/2023 at 10:35 AM, greenskin said:

Plastic is bendy indeed, but resin is no good either. I have some experience with painting resin cast minis and can assure you that yards with this thickness cast in resin will brake in first 5 minutes after taking out of the box.

If they invested in better plastic, I think it would be greater improvement.

I like how someone created wooden decks for this plastic model.

 

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/223990286973

[Admiral Beez]

Making progress.  Masts and iron hoops painted.    I still need to add the black hoops to the mizzenmast and add patina to the upper masts so they more resemble the deck colour.

Edited November 16, 2023 by Admiral Beez

[Admiral Beez]

Was removing the tape on my newly painted mizzenmast, and snap!  I guess hollowing out the mast and then inserting a carbon rod left a cavity at top that severed. I’ll insert another carbon rod to fill the gap and serve as a guide to align the two pieces.

Edited December 5, 2023 by Admiral Beez

[Admiral Beez]

I wanted some ideas on how to get a more varnished wood colour for the upper masts.  So, I asked ChatGPT.

 

Q: What model paint colours can I mix to make paint that looks like vanished wood?
 

A: To create a paint that mimics the look of varnished wood, you can mix various brown tones and incorporate a glossy medium to simulate the shine of varnish. Experiment with mixing brown, sienna, and ochre hues, adding a touch of red or orange for warmth. Additionally, blending in a gloss or varnish medium will enhance the finish. Adjust the ratios until you achieve the desired wood-like color and sheen.

 

I’m happy with how it turned out.  The upper masts and outer bowsprit look like varnished wood to me now, rather than the raw wood look I’ve used on the decks.  Two coats of custom paint.  Now, I had already clear coated the masts, so admittedly I’m painting without a primer, but I will clear coat it again tomorrow morning (after I touch up the black) to seal it all in.  You can also see my repaired mizzen mast below.

Edited December 5, 2023 by Admiral Beez

[Admiral Beez]

I’ve got a donated Roman Centurion to stand in for the Spartan figurehead.   See Spartan below.  I need to add the eyes, the Greek A onto the shield and perhaps darken the sword.  I may also paint the figure’s nose gold to better model the Spartan helmet.

 

 

 

 

Edited December 5, 2023 by Admiral Beez

[Ian_Grant]

On 11/9/2023 at 12:48 PM, TomRigg said:

Would 3D printing work?

Not that I know how (or know anyone who could) 

Tom

Check out Kevin the Lubber's  Cutty Sark build for 3D printed masts etc.

[robdurant]

21 hours ago, Admiral Beez said:

the Greek A

Looking great... the character is in fact a Greek capital lambda (L) (the following image is public domain from wiki images)

The Lambda represented Lacedaemon which was the Greek for Sparta.

[Admiral Beez]

Spartan/Roman figurehead now installed.  Masts completed.  Next step I need to fabricate the three stern lanterns the British used rather than the single large lantern that comes with the kit.

 

 

 

Edited December 5, 2023 by Admiral Beez

[Admiral Beez]

The single large stern lantern that comes with the kit will not do for the Royal Navy, where three lanterns are the norm.  So I have raided my wife's collection of plastic beads to see what works.   There are larger oval shapes, smaller ball shapes and medium sized diamond shaped beads.    I think I'll go with the latter, which I can paint black or ochre on top and put verticals lines below to suggest the framing for the glass panes.    

Here's HMS Victory for reference.   The middle lantern is supposed to be larger like below, but I think the three equal-sized beads I've chosen will work best, as the smaller ones I have a round balls and would look inconsistent with the diamond shaped middle lantern. 

Edited December 5, 2023 by Admiral Beez

[Admiral Beez]

The topsail and topgallant sail yards are very flimsy.  Also, the kit does not include studding sail yards, as shown on this model…

So, I have a solution to both strengthen the yards and address this omission; carbon fibre rods cut in the middle and affixed to the yards.

 

Edited December 6, 2023 by Admiral Beez

[Admiral Beez]

Merry Christmas everyone.  I hope you’re having a safe and happy day.

 

I’m pleased with the latest progress.  I bought a pack of nylon washers and used different sizes to serve as the ring deck seal around the masts.  I used a cone bit on my Dremel to enlarge the hole size to fit each mast.  For the stern lights that I fabricated using my wife’s plastic beads, I cut additional nylon washers to serve as the mounts.  I still need to touch up the paint on the stern.

 

 

 

Edited December 27, 2023 by Admiral Beez

[Admiral Beez]

The box of assorted nylon washers has proven to be very useful.  Since this kit does not include studdingsail booms, I used nylon washers to add rings to the end of the lower yards.  I’ll then use spare carbon fibre rods, originally bought for reinforcing the masts, to serve as studdingsail booms.

 

Edited January 4 by Admiral Beez

[Admiral Beez]

The ship build is now complete, except the the rigging.  I’m a little trepidation about using the shroud loom (click here for how to video), but we’ll give it a go.  Next steps is collect the various gauge black and tan threads for standing and running rigging.  I’m going to attempt to install the yards with only rope, no glue, but we’ll see.

Edited January 11 by Admiral Beez

[Admiral Beez]

I was having difficultly understanding the shroud tool so I sent an inquiry to Heller in France.  They replied with a new set of assembly instructions, see https://www.heller.fr/downloads/1000808950_MA_Building_Instructions.pdf  These are MUCH better!

Edited February 14 by Admiral Beez

[Admiral Beez]

We’re moving along nicely now.  I brushed white craft glue onto the tips of the threads and micro drilled by hand the holes to facilitate inserting the stays.  Below you can see the micro drills and threads awaiting glue drying.  I also CA glued each knot and then trimmed away the extra thread past the knots.  

CA glue the knots first!  Only then trim the knots!

Edited February 13 by Admiral Beez

[Admiral Beez]

Rigging underway.  0.4 mm for the vertical lines, 0.25 mm for the horizontal lines.  This shroud tool seems useful.  I’ll paint the lines a taupe colour where they’re glued to the backside of the plastic deadeyes.

 

Shrouds just placed for show.  I still need to trim the sides and adjust the bottom so to align with the plastic deadeye pieces.

Edited February 29 by Admiral Beez