Flying Fish by MikeR - 1:64 (3/16" to 1 Foot) - from Model Shipways plans

[MikeR]

Hello all

In the early 2000's, I got the model Flying Fish and last December 13, 2021  I started the build.  I enlarged the plans 50% to 1:64 (3/16 scale ) to keep it the same scale as my other models.

I used rubber cement to glue the patterns to 1/4" plywood.  I then separated them with a scroll saw and proceeded to cut them out.  I tapered the bulkheads and  then attached them to the center keel piece.

 

[MikeR]

After the bulkheads, bracing and support pieces for the bits were installed I covered the deck area with a thin layer of wood, to make it a lot easier to install the deck planking. Then I added the waterways and planksheers. 

The types of wood that I will be using are cherry for the hull planking under the copper plates. Dogwood for the rest of the hull , deck planking, and the masts, from trees that died in my yard from a disease that went through our area years ago.  Bloodwood for the structure trim and ebony for the timberheads and railings. For the yards I will be using cocobolo.

[MikeR]

My next step was to install the timberheads and vent pipes.

[MikeR]

To keep the vent pipe spacing even I  made a simple jig for the hole positions. Push the jig to the right and mark the hole then push to the left and mark that hole. I then drilled the holes and enlarged them to .032" for the vent pipes.

[MikeR]

[rwiederrich]

Great job.  I take it that second external line on each forward and aft bulkhead is the chamfer line that when using the proper thickness plywood gives you the proper chamfer for that bulkhead?

 

I noticed the line was absent on the final cut bulkheads.

 

Sweet job.....glad to follow along.

 

Rob

[TBlack]

Your ability with the scroll saw is most remarkable. Those bulkheads are works of art in themselves.

Tom

[rwiederrich]

I love the use of that old friction grip belt driven dental handpiece. 

 

Rob

[MikeR]

Rob, the picture of the cut out bulkheads have all ready been tapered.  I used 1/4 plywood and the taper needed very little sanding before planking the hull.

Tom, I have been using a scroll saw for many years, I use to do arts and crafts shows.

[MikeR]

I'm getting close to the end installing the timber heads, and I  started planking the bulwarks.

[MikeR]

I started to run planks around the stern and did not like the way they went on.  I removed them and made a form to shape the 1/16" thick planks, I liked the way they turned out.

[MikeR]

I have finished installing the bulwarks,  bulwark ceilings, and the knightheads.  I started to install the hatch and deckhouse coamings.

[MikeR]

I started laying the deck planking under the forecastle and temporarily added the forecastle bitts.

[MikeR]

Very carefully I drilled the hawse holes, first with a 1/16" bit, then a 1/8" bit and finished up with a 1/8"bit.

[MikeR]

After adding a few planks to the bow I used the 3/16" bit to finish the hawse hole.  Then I used 3/16" tubing for the hawse pipe.

[MikeR]

The planks I am using for the upper hull are dogwood.  They started out as a 6" X 24" log cut many years ago.  I cut the logs into 1" boards with a band saw, then ran them through a planer.  Using a Byrnes table saw I cut the boards into slightly over sized planks and then ran them through a drum sander.

[rwiederrich]

Beautiful wood.  It will look nice.

 

Rob

[MikeR]

Rob,  I really like working with dogwood, it is a hardwood with a very fine grain.  It cuts and sands well and produces very sharp edges.  It is also great for turning on a lathe.

 

I have been planking both the deck and hull.

 

[MikeR]

While waiting for the glue to dry for the planking,  I have been working on the windlass, chain stoppers and mangers

[MikeR]

[MikeR]

Here I'm starting to drill the holes for the windows in the aft cabin.  Then I'm using my scroll saw to cut them out.  The next step was to drill the holes for the window bars, and install them.

[MikeR]

[MikeR]

[rwiederrich]

Good work....    I didn't realize the Flying Fish had bared windows.  Being a McKay extreme clipper, I would have expected her to have similar window treatments as his other clippers. 

 

The end result is clean and well executed.

 

Rob

[MikeR]

I am still working on the aft cabin and I finished planking the hull.  I  added a few rows of copper plates well copper tape really, until I  ran out. I tried to find brass tape and the suppliers that handled it were out of stock, so I ordered copper. The Flying Fish had yellow metal plated instead of copper.

[MikeR]

I started to work on the skylights for the aft cabin.  I was thinking how am I going to drill the 10 boards that hold the bars so that the holes all line up.  So this is what I came up with.  I glued 6 boards together and after they were dry,  I used an indexing table to drill even spaced holes.  I made a few extra in case of mistakes.

They were then cut apart, sanded, and wire passed through the holes while the boards were still glued together. Then I soaked them in alcohol for 10 to 15 minutes.  They came apart without much trouble.  I inspected the boards and removed one since I only needed 5 boards per side for the skylight.

[MikeR]

During the last month I started to install the main rail which I am making out of ebony.  While the glue was drying I started on the masts. After they were glued up I turned them on a lathe.  I'm not sure if I like the finished masts.  I will decide after I install the iron bands on them.

[rwiederrich]

I see what you’re saying.   The taper removes the chapeling . 
 

Rob

[gak1965]

On 3/30/2022 at 6:31 PM, rwiederrich said:

I see what you’re saying.   The taper removes the chapeling . 
 

Rob

 

I had the same problem in the beginning with the MSW kit. The problem (I think) was that I misread the MSW plans. I concluded that the core of the main and fore masts were 24 inches (1/4" at scale), which was also the size of the square top of the lower masts. However, more careful reading of the plans suggested that the square top of the main (at 1:96) should have been 1/4", the square top of the fore 3/16", and the core on both the masts should be 3/16". Once I built the masts up on a 3/16 core, the tapering didn't remove the chapeling and the masts looked right. I had to then build up the square top on the main by sheathing it with some 1/32" wood, but it was a minor issue relatively speaking to resolve.

 

This may not be what is happening in your case but it's something to maybe think about.

 

Looking awesome, BTW. I loved how you put the bars on the carriage house windows. I put some on my Fish, but they were nowhere near as clean as the ones you made.

 

Regards,

George K.

Edited April 7, 2022 by gak1965

[MikeR]

Rob & George     This is my second attempt to make the main and foremast.  I used 1/4" stock to glue up the masts and I will add thin pieces of wood to the head and base to bring them to the proper size.  I turned the foremast first and it turned out OK.