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Flying Fish by MikeR - 1:64 (3/16" to 1 Foot)

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Hello all

In the early 2000's, I got the model Flying Fish and last December 13, 2021  I started the build.  I enlarged the plans 50% to 1:64 (3/16 scale ) to keep it the same scale as my other models.

I used rubber cement to glue the patterns to 1/4" plywood.  I then separated them with a scroll saw and proceeded to cut them out.  I tapered the bulkheads and  then attached them to the center keel piece.


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After the bulkheads, bracing and support pieces for the bits were installed I covered the deck area with a thin layer of wood, to make it a lot easier to install the deck planking. Then I added the waterways and planksheers. 

The types of wood that I will be using are cherry for the hull planking under the copper plates. Dogwood for the rest of the hull , deck planking, and the masts, from trees that died in my yard from a disease that went through our area years ago.  Bloodwood for the structure trim and ebony for the timberheads and railings. For the yards I will be using cocobolo.

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To keep the vent pipe spacing even I  made a simple jig for the hole positions. Push the jig to the right and mark the hole then push to the left and mark that hole. I then drilled the holes and enlarged them to .032" for the vent pipes.




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Great job.  I take it that second external line on each forward and aft bulkhead is the chamfer line that when using the proper thickness plywood gives you the proper chamfer for that bulkhead?


I noticed the line was absent on the final cut bulkheads.


Sweet job.....glad to follow along.



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  • 2 weeks later...

I am still working on the aft cabin and I finished planking the hull.  I  added a few rows of copper plates well copper tape really, until I  ran out. I tried to find brass tape and the suppliers that handled it were out of stock, so I ordered copper. The Flying Fish had yellow metal plated instead of copper.











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I started to work on the skylights for the aft cabin.  I was thinking how am I going to drill the 10 boards that hold the bars so that the holes all line up.  So this is what I came up with.  I glued 6 boards together and after they were dry,  I used an indexing table to drill even spaced holes.  I made a few extra in case of mistakes.

They were then cut apart, sanded, and wire passed through the holes while the boards were still glued together. Then I soaked them in alcohol for 10 to 15 minutes.  They came apart without much trouble.  I inspected the boards and removed one since I only needed 5 boards per side for the skylight.










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  • 1 month later...
On 3/30/2022 at 6:31 PM, rwiederrich said:

I see what you’re saying.   The taper removes the chapeling . 



I had the same problem in the beginning with the MSW kit. The problem (I think) was that I misread the MSW plans. I concluded that the core of the main and fore masts were 24 inches (1/4" at scale), which was also the size of the square top of the lower masts. However, more careful reading of the plans suggested that the square top of the main (at 1:96) should have been 1/4", the square top of the fore 3/16", and the core on both the masts should be 3/16". Once I built the masts up on a 3/16 core, the tapering didn't remove the chapeling and the masts looked right. I had to then build up the square top on the main by sheathing it with some 1/32" wood, but it was a minor issue relatively speaking to resolve.


This may not be what is happening in your case but it's something to maybe think about.


Looking awesome, BTW. I loved how you put the bars on the carriage house windows. I put some on my Fish, but they were nowhere near as clean as the ones you made.



George K.

Edited by gak1965
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