Armed Launch by Sluicemaster - Panart - 1:16

[Sluicemaster]

Hello All

 

This is my first build log and is of my third model, the first two being "Phantom" by Model Shipways and "Le Renard" by Artesania Latina.  I purchased this kit 25 years ago, opened and looked at it,  then put it on the shelf.  I don't recall my thougts on it then - I'm 74 now so can plead a "senior issue" - but when I opened it in January to begin the build I thought "Holy Moly, what have I gotten myself into!"  The plans were all in Italian, there were some basic instrucions in English in the manual, and it's triple planked.  Yikes!

 

Since I am still fairly new at modeling I wasn't going to do a build log.  Perusing the logs of those accomplished modelers who have done this kit I decided to forge ahead with it.  Thank you to those who have shared your expreriences!  You have been inspirational and instructive!

 

Since this is my first post I'll only add a few pictures of the start and of the current status.  I started in January and as I write this the second layer of planking is complete.  I've promised myself not to go any further until I'd started the build log

The flate piece for the form is warped.

I added a stiffiner.
Interior view as the model is now.  Another piece has been added to the stiffener so that I can clamp it in my vise.

The second layer of planking complete.

 

I'll end this post now.  My computer has been sqirrely lately and restarts on a whim.  I'll begin my updates very soon.

 

 

[Sluicemaster]

The walnut planking supplied with the kit was not up to par so I decided to replace it.  I was unable to find any walnut in metric sizes of the proper length so I ordered cherry wood strips from Joe at Modeler’s Sawmill.  He provided excellent wood quickly and at great prices.

 

My only previous planking experience was on the “Le Renard” so with some hesitancy I started out following the unique illustration on the plans.  From the first plank onward, every plank has proven to be something of a new lesson and test.  The cherry wood is a bit stiffer than the kit wood and so added an extra challenge to applying it.

 

Since the first layer of planking would be visible on the inside, I didn’t want to have to deal with cleaning up excess glue so I slightly beveled the outside edges of the planks and applied glue on the outside seam after the planks were snugged up and secured with clamps.  As I would remove the clamps, I would apply the glue (Titebond) where the clamps were.
 

 

[Sluicemaster]

As I applied the planks using the supplied walnut strips they began pulling away from the bulkheads.  This was probably due to the glue shrinking as it dried since it was on the exterior of the planks and thus putting outward stress on the planks.  My solution was to push them down using rubber bands and wetting the wood throughout the day.  I did this for several days and it pretty much worked.  The rest of the first planking layer went pretty well.

 

[Sluicemaster]

Before I began the second layer of planks I discovered and watched Chuck Passaro’s video on “Planking the Bow of the Wincheslea”, made a bending jig patterned after his, and bought a small travel iron.  I also purchased a Micro-Make belt sander and benchtop holder from Micro-Mark.  These together greatly improved my plank forming.  I wish I’d known and done this on the first layer as it would have greatly eased my frustrations!

 

For this layer the only part of the Panart planking illustration that I followed was to use full width lumber for the first three planks.  The planks from there on were tapered and full length.  I tapered the planks according to the distance between the last full width plank and the keel at each bulkhead.  Ships curves were really helpful in properly tapering the planks.  I had a few issues using this scheme, so on the third and most crucial layer I will likely do something different.  Planking fans confuse me a bit but I’ll try to better understand them and attempt to incorporate the method.

 

I don’t plan to paint the hull, since third layer will be all cherry wood that I’ll stain.  I sure don’t want to make any mistakes so will go slower than my usually slow pace.

Up to a certain point I was able to use clamps to secure the planks as the Titebond glue dried, From there on I used super glue, which I prefer to use as little as possible.  I’ll probably keep using Titebond and apply finger pressure until it sets up significantly.  Since I’m retired I sure have the time.

 

Because I only applied glue to the outside edges of the planks on the first layer, the layer as a whole pulled away from the bulkheads a bit.  To attempt to remedy this I glued small blocks of wood to each bulkhead then used clamps to pull the shell inward as I applied the lime wood planks.  In the picture showing a lot of clamps, the small green clamps are being used for this purpose.

 

After finishing the first layer, I tried to sand the lines of Titebond glue that were thick.  I was amazed at how hard that was.  Never again will I apply it in such a way that I would have to sand it after drying.  During a time that I was using a music wire stopper for my glue dispenser the glue turned black.  Odd!!  I stopped that practice and just used a cap over the tip.

[Sluicemaster]

The third layer of planking is going well.  I’m at the limit of the reach of my longest clamps, so will probably use finger pressure to keep the planks in place until the Titebond glue sets.  I think the heat from my fingers speeds the drying somewhat.  I don’t want to use super glue as I did on the second layer because I fear causing a mishap with the cherry wood planks.  The model will be stained instead of painted, so errant super glue would be noticeable.

[CiscoH]

looks great Sluicemaster!  I don’t fully understand why a kit would have you plank 3 layers.  My Armed Virginia Sloop has 2 layers and it has been helpful learning how to (and how not to) plank on the first layer but in the future I really only want one layer.

Chuck’s planking videos were a game changer for me too

keep up the great work

[Sluicemaster]

Thanks CiscoH;

 

Most of the bulkheads used in planking the Armed Launch are removed after the third layer of planking is complete.  The inner layer is visible on the completed model as well as the third layer.  The kit supplies walnut for those layers, and lime wood for the middle layer.  Additionally, three layers provide rigidity.  The walnut that came with my kit was not at all to my liking so I replaced it  I couldn't find walnut of the proper length so I got cherry wood from Modeler's Sawmill.  I'm not going to paint the hull and instead will stain it since the cherry wood is to nice to cover up.

 

The Arned Virginia Sloop is waiting for me to start when I finish this model.  I boought it in the mid 1990's along with many others including the Constitution, Le Renard, Endeavor, and Puritan.  I sold all but the Armed Virginia Sloop due to vision and "essential tremor" issues.  Those made rigging Le Renard difficult.  I believe that the rigging on the sloop will be doable for me.  I'm already kit-bashing it before even starting and replaced all the rigging supplies with rope and blocks from Syren Ship Model Company and Model Expo.  The rope has cost far more than the model did but is vastly superior the what was supplied with the kit - or any kit for that matter.

 

I've kept a lot of tutorial info' for the sloop including a series of articles from Model Shipways, and have considered getting the practicums that are available.  I really look forward to doing it!

 

Do you have a log in progress?

[CiscoH]

I do have a log, not yet updated this month.  at present i think its the only one for the AVS currently active on this website, but there are at least 15? or so that have been done here in the past.  i got the practicum which is helpful, too

Edited July 3, 2022 by CiscoH

[mikiek]

Working on this same build - just slightly ahead of you. I concur on the walnut. Worst wood I have ever seen in a kit, however I am using it. I've had misgivings about this kit since I started it and didn't want to waste a lot of good wood if I decided to toss the whole thing (which I have thought about more than once).

 

I think the 3 layers is an attempt to get the dimensions of the strakes to scale. Can you imagine trying to use 1 stick that was the thickness of 3? Virtually impossible to work with.

[Sluicemaster]

Hello mikiek - I agree with your theory about scale.  This kit has been a planking extravaganza!!  My only planking experience was on the Le Renard, so when I opened this kit and saw that there were three layers I darn near broke out in a sweat.  The second layer was kind of a "forgiveness layer" for me as I was able to atone for mistakes in the first.  I started the kit in January, hoping to be done with planking by now., however "Murphy" skewed my plans several times, and I took some breaks due to plank burnout.  Now I hope to be done by the end of July.  After I saw the horrible planking wood I went ahead and ordered wood from Modeler's Sawmill to replace most of the kit wood.

[allanyed]

Very neatly done planking! Just as an FYI for the future for ship's boats, launches, etc, W.E. May's book is a treasure trove of details that will help avoid the myriad of kit mistakes.  One example from one of his pages of scantlings: A 30 or 32 foot launch would have 10" wide planks.  Scaling your photo in a CAD program, the planks look to be about half that size.

 

There are great contemporary plans available for free that allow anyone to scratch build a boat and hand tools are the only thing needed, although a scroll saw is a plus.  There are 25 high resolution contemporary plans of gun boats on the Wiki Commons site on page 10   https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Ship_plans_of_the_Royal_Museums_Greenwich  Even if building a kit, the drawings could be useful in showing what these boats really looked like.

Allan

Edited July 1, 2022 by allanyed

[Sluicemaster]

Hello allanyed.  One would hope, especially a newbie like myself, that a kit - a good kit - would have true to scale planking.  This kit supplied 1mm x 6mm planks for the outside layer, and 1mm x 7mm planks for the inside layer  Thank you for great historical and reference data.  I will check it out.  I used full length planks on this, and nowhere did they taper to less than one half plank width.  I'd like to add detail showing some sort of realistic plank joints or butt ends on the model, and perhaps even simulate nails or tree nails using a ponce wheel before I stain it.  I really appreciate any and all input.

[allanyed]

The boat kits from Syren are perhaps the very best available.  In any case do yourself a favor and check the logs here at MSW before buying any other boat kit as the majority are lacking in many aspects.  There is always scratch building 😀  For small boats, power tools are a nicety but not necessary.  

Allan 

 

[Sluicemaster]

I have purchased blocks, cleats, and rope from Syren for this model, and the next two in my inventory - the Armed Virginia Sloop and the New Bedford Whaleboat, both from Model Shipways, which I purchased 25 years ago.  The Winchelsea looks to be a wonderful kit to build, though I would probably start with the Medway Longboat.  I've also purchased the serving machine to use when I do the AVS.  Chuck certainly provides the best quality model supplies!!!  I am contemplating two sctartch build projects.  One is the "Pastime" a tourist boat that plyed Lake Manitou at Rochester, Indiana in the early 1900's.  I was born there many, many moons ago.  I have a lot of pictures of it, mostly from postcards, and a little bit of historical data.  I thought it might be an intersting project to work on along side whatever kit I'm working on.  I'll keep my other possible scratch build a closely guarded secret for a while.  LOL.  I notice that many modelers have several projects going at once, perhaps to avoid burnout.

[Sluicemaster]

I've reached a point where I can no longer use clamps to secure the planks after gluing.  I now use finger pressure and rubber bands.  I use Titebond Ultimate glue.  I apply glue to the first inch or so of the plank and hold it in place with my fingers for about ten minutes or until the glue has pretty well set.  The plank stays like that, going off into the air, for eight hours at which point I apply glue for the remaining length and secure it with rubber bands.  The aft end has to be manually held for a short period.  The green clamps on the large paper clips keep them from opening due to rubber band pressure.

[Sluicemaster]

At this point I'm fairly happy with how the planking is progressing.  The are some "glitches", mainly some splaying where I didn't properly bend a few planks, and where the plank meets the keel piece at the bow.   The splaying is minor and has occured lower down on the hull, so I don't think it will be noticable when the model is upright.   Since I didn't cut a rabbet - I couldn't figure out how to, especially on the cheap plywood the keel was made from - I beveled the planks and butted them to the prow.  I hope I can carefuuly clean up the irregularities.

[allanyed]

Sluicemaster

Bravo on the third layer of planking!!! It is a delight to see planking done properly.

On 6/29/2022 at 11:08 PM, mikiek said:

I think the 3 layers is an attempt to get the dimensions of the strakes to scale. Can you imagine trying to use 1 stick that was the thickness of 3? Virtually impossible to work with.

Mike, I have spiled castello and other hard woods that are as much as 0.17" thick with no problems at all.  Using the method in the articles data base here at MSW on spiling planking and/or using the methods in the videos prepared by Chuck Passaro on You Tube work like a charm. 

 

Allan

 

[Sluicemaster]

Finally finished the third layer of planking on the starboard side.  Over all I’m pretty happy with the way it went.  Although there are some minor issues with spiling and gap width, I feel that once I’ve stained and lightly applied polyurethane to the hull, it should display fairly well.  The port side will be done better, so that will probably be the “show” side.

 

I didn’t use a fan guide to shape the planks, but rather, at each bulkhead, measured the distance from the keel to the bottom edge of the first plank.  There was no way that I would end up with a whole number of planks, and knew a that at some point I’d have to use a partial. I re-calculated half way up the side.

 

The garboard plank was the second to the last and was a bit difficult to form.  I soaked it in hot water, then clamped it to the keel and hull for several days, re-soaking it after a full day.  It is a 7mm width, as is the first plank under the cap rail.  I did that so that the cherry wood planks would overlap the 6mm lime wood planks to add a bit of extra strength.  If they had both been 6mm them perhaps I’d have had a full number of planks.

 

The last plank was a sort of hourglass shape.  I don't know if it would have been done historically, but it had to be.  The line of the hull along the keel is a bit out of natural flow at the stern and is the result of error from the first layer progressing upward.  The garboard plank pulled away from the keel near the stern while the glue was drying.  To be honest, I dropped the ball there.  Dang!!  The port side will be better.  The planking is a bit awkward and off the line at the bow, but I may be able to clean it up.

 

Since the hull would not be painted, I had to stain the keel before starting planking.  It did not go well and looks a bit rough.  I'm thinking that whatever light stain I use on the hull, that I will overstain the keel. 

 

Planking this model has been a real adventure and is probably turning my gray hair even grayer.  Chuck’s plank bending tutorials were invaluable, and the MicroMark belt sander was the best tool in the house.  I found that a plank cannot just fit OK, rather it must fit perfectly before being glued.  The cherry wood added its own challenges, but should look pretty good when the model is complete.

 

Whew – only one side and the stern left to plank.

 

 

Forming the garboard plank.

 

Forming the garboard plank at the stern.

[CiscoH]

that looks great!

and yes the last plank is always a funky hourglass shape

[Sluicemaster]

In my last post I mistakenly said that I used a 7mm wide plank below the cap rail..  I did not, alhough I thought briefly about it, then nixed it.  That one different plank would have been a bad mistake.  I've started planking the port side.  The first six planks are a delight because they are so easy to clamp for glueing.

[mikiek]

A few thoughts - IMO the garboard should be one of the first sticks to be laid. If you you get that one correct it should eliminate a lot of shaping on the strakes above it. Maybe I should rephrase - there will still be the usual tapering of sticks at the stem and possibly at the stern, but not the wonky kind of thin, thick, thin, thick of a single stick. You can hide some of those "last strake" weird shapings by where you finish the planking. Obviously, if you finished on the top 1/3 of the hull (never recommended), any odd shaping is going to be in plain view. It is better to try to finish where the hull is curving inwards - usually about 60-70% down from the wales. Even if you end up with a really funky "last stick", it will not be totally visible due to the angle that it is laid. Of course this will vary per build but there is almost always a section of the hull that is barely visible when viewing from the side.

 

Regarding your staining concerns, consider a natural stain. Minwax makes one that is decent. There is no actual coloring, it just gives your wood kind of a wet look. Particularly since you upgraded to some decent wood, I would suggest that you play around with it some. If I don't paint, I use the Natural stain.

 

On a related note, your wood upgrade looks great. Makes me wish I had done the same.

[Sluicemaster]

Thanks mikiek!   I appreciate your input amd suggestions.  Planking this model has been quite the experience, with every plank adding its own unique challenges.  The planking instructions on the plans were bewildering to say the least   I did the first layer like that, but abandoned it quickly after that layer.  On the next layers I learned a lot of what to, and not to do.  The hull will be stained soon after the bulkehead form is removed.  It needs to dry before I can begin any gluing.  At the moment I'm taking a break to get necessary house and yard chores done.  It'll be a relief to get back to model making!!

[mikiek]

I hear ya - with the heat wave in TX (and elsewhere) my workshop runs about 82-84 degrees even with the portable A/C unit running so I have not been in a hurry to get out there right now.

 

I gave up the planking instructions early on. They just seemed to contradict most of what I have learned. Instead, I went with what I know will work - which included a rabbit big enough to accept 3 layers of planking.

 

Stay with it......

[Sluicemaster]

It’s been a while since my last post.  I took a bit of time off due to a bit of “planking burnout.”  I took much more time for a short vacation, and to do a lot of house and yard chores before upcoming back surgery which will put me on limited duty for some time.

 

The third layer of planking is almost done, and I’m fairly pleased with it.  Planking the stern and keel as per the instructions will be a joy since I won’t have to do any bending.

 

I’m considering scribing butt joints on the planks in order to create a more realist look to the strakes.  Some tests I’ve done show good promise, so now I need to research what length planks would have been done on a vessel this size.  It seems the vessel would be about 30 feet long, so my gut guess is that the planks would be about ten feet long.  I’m going to check out a Wikipedia site mentioned by “allanyed.“  Planking Techniques for Model Ship Builders” has great information.  I welcome any comment or advice on doing this.  I briefly thought about simulating nails or pegs, but am not willing to devote the time that it would consume.

 

My wonderful wife got me the best birthday present ever – a Proxxon DB-250 lathe and attachments from Model Expo.  Yeehaaa!!!  Now I won’t have to shape masts and spars by hand and hope they come out somewhat proper.  She asked what I would use it for when not doing masts, spars and other ship items.  I told her that I’d make miniature Nutcracker figures.  She hates them and threatened to take the lathe back!  Not!!!

 

 

Since I’m doing a bit of kit-bashing on this project I decided that I didn’t want to do the cap rail as instructed.  I’ve gotten fond of cherry wood, and decided that I wanted to use it for the rail.  Soooo – I ordered 3mm x 10mm strips and a 3mm thick sheet from Modeler’s Sawmill.  I’ve kind of gotten into testing different stains on a variety of wood, so I also ordered the same sizes in Alaskan cedar and pear.  I’m going to do very little painting.

 

Although I knew it was a very long shot to succeed in bending the cherry wood, I had to try.  Long story short – it did not work.  Oh well, it was fun trying.  The next photos show it.  Since I have a lot of time before I attach the rail, I may try bending it in small sections, or I will cut the rail from sheet stock.

 

[CiscoH]

Are you using heat (small travel iron or a hairdryer) while bending?  you can get away with a lot more stretching than with water alone.

having said that i think youd have to join several sections to make it look realistic

and i like your bending jig

[Sluicemaster]

Thanks ciscoH.  I tried the iron a bit, but since the water didn't soak in much it wasn't working, though it sure works well with the thinner planks.  I am going to do the raili in sections and soak the wood for several days instead of over night.  That project is now a bit down the road.  I hope to finish the planling in the next week.

[mikiek]

You will need to do some scarphing to get wood that thick to curve that much. I hate to see you waste all that good wood. I ended up cutting various rhombus like shapes. It's kind of like figuring out a puzzle except you make the pieces as you go. You can then sand the inner and outer edge to round it off.

 

[allanyed]

Soaking and bending works,,,,,, to a point, but it does have limits depending on the thickness, radius, and species.   For the forward third or so you can make a template then mark out the shape on sheet stock of the appropriate thickness and cut out that portion with the tightest radius.  The joint with the remainder of the rail can then be a scarph.   

Allan

[Sluicemaster]

Thank you mikiek and allanyed for your helpful and informative comments.  The cap rail will be one of the last items attached to the hull.  I'll probably start forming the rail pieces in a month or two.  I look forward to doing it, and will use the existing jig which I've already modified..  

[Sluicemaster]

At Last!  The planking is done!  I started planking in January, hoping to be done by April or May.  Boy, was I dreaming.  Every plank on each layer was its own lesson in planking.  All but nine required shaping.  I certainly didn’t plank full time, and took many longish breaks due to plank “burnout.”

 

Overall, I’m pleased with how the planking turned out.  There are glitches, awkward areas, and “oops” that shouldn’t be too apparent when the model is finished.  This is only the second model I’ve planked and learned one heck of a lot!  I started out following the weird planking diagram in the instructions, then totally disregarded it for the second and third layers.  Using cherrywood for most of the interior and all of the exterior presented its own challenges due to its hardness.  I used Titebond Ultimate glue as much as possible.  Super glue was used very sparingly. 

 

The inner planks that will be visible when the model is complete are of cherry, while the planks that are under the deck are of the sub-par walnut supplied with the kit.  They will be stained the same as the exterior.  The sub-par walnut plywood supplied for the keel didn't take stain well at all, so I'm not too pleased with it.  Sooo - it is what it is.  When the model is complete it may not be so noticeable.
 

Since I’m not painting the hull, I stained the whole thing with MinWax Special Walnut stain.  The interior planking will be the same. 

 

In several weeks I’ll be having back surgery, and will be on limited duty for quite some time.  Not having to rake leaves, snow blow, and do other back-stressing chores will free up a lot of time to work on the model, so I hope to make good progress through the fall and winter.