Bluenose by PopJack - Model Shipways - 1:64

[themadchemist]

If I recall correctly it seems I read somewhere on MSW that ME had a new person running the laser and so kits where cut with too high of heat. Set for thicker wood If I'm remembering right. I'd try contacting them on this. The thread also talked on the charred wood being an issue and the charring reducing the size from material loss.

It also makes sense that overheating could heat the adhesives in the ply and cause delamination.

 

Oh the frustrations we cause ourselves by attempting such tasks, but I'm with Floyd on the "more makes it easier". Its nice to have others building the same ship, so that you can bounce ideas off of them. MSW make an undoable task, not only doable but fun.

[Redbeard]

Hello PopJack!

 

Gonna follow your progress as I'm getting ready to start the bluenose myself. Placing my order tomorrow and hopefully get started on it in a few weeks. Good luck on your build and we'll see ya around.

 

John

[PopJack]

Partially installed the water ways and have started planking.  This is my first ship at this scale- geeh, there are a LOT of planks!

[Redbeard]

Hey PopJack! I just noticed your keel vise stand. Looks like it's pretty sturdy. Ive been looking around for one myself...nothing i like. Mind sharing where you got it?

 

Thanks

John

[PopJack]

Sure. It's called an Amati Keel Clamp.  I got mine from Hobbyworldinc.com, but I've seen them other place since then.

 

I really like the way I can swivel the ship around to work on different things.  It has a good enough grip to hold onto the false keels of the ships I have built so I use it all the way thought he rigging

[PopJack]

Well, I haven't posted anything in a while, so I thought I'd catch up a bit.

 

<BLAH BLAH>

 

I've whined enough for a lifetime about this simple little build.  I think most of the early stages of the build logs on this ship were lost in the great crash.  I couldn't find enough to help me get going.

 

After a lot of thought I went ahead and purchased Hunt's practicum.  It was a lot of coin and it hurt to do it, but frankly I found myself not enjoying the build.  I was considering just junking it.  Hunt's techniques are quite a bit different than the directions and so far much more understandable.  There are still a few issues with the kit, but I am a much happier camper than I had been.  I am back to enjoying myself, which is what this is all about.  So, was the cost of the practicum worth it?  For me, yes.

That said, I'm not following his instructions exactly.  This keeps me from feeling good about using his forum for advice (I think its only fair that if you ask questions about how to do things that you be  doing what he said to do), but I'm HAVING FUN!

 

I think I had overly high expectations for the quality of this kit.  I'm not saying its bad- just that I had expected quite a lot.  I had built a couple of  AS kits and thought by moving to this manufacturer that all of the wood inaccuracies, lack of consistency in stated thickness, bad laser cuts, were going to disappear.  I was wrong.

 

For those of you who have read other my other logs, you may be surprised that I actually did some re-work.  Amazing but true.  I found myself trying to cover up an error and then figured- heck "It's only wood!"

 

</BLAH BLAH>

 

So, the hull is planked.  This is the easiest of the three kits I have built to plank.  I only used a bender on maybe six planks and that was to induce an accurate twist.  The main deck is planked and I'm starting on the quarter deck. 

 

The decks are a fun challenge with the nibbing straits and the taper of planks on the quarter deck.  Fun, but not too hard.  I had intended to install tree nails, but the scale is so small I think they would look funny.  Still considering this.  Has anyone put in tree nails on this ship?

 

 

 

 

 

[popeye the sailor]

so good to see the progress on your build........the hull looks sweet!   from what I can see,  the hull looks nice and smooth......shape and contour is nice as well.   looking forward in seeing more progress 

[fnkershner]

I would agree that this is one of the easiest hulls to plank. I think I only tapered 1 plank! The deck was my first experience with a nibbing strake and I learned a lot. As to the quarterdeck. Well lets just say I am glad it was covered by lots of deck furniture. I too had the practicum. in hindsight I would say that I followed Bob too closely and for too long. And if I had known about this web site then I might not have bought it at all. I found the instructions that came with the kit almost useless. and without either this site or the practicum I would have abandoned the project.

 

I agree with you that the scale and size of the planks pretty much preclude treenailing. Instead of tree nailing have you considered installing the scuppers in the bulwarks? Take a look at Bob or Dave's build logs they did a wonderful job of this and it makes a difference. This is one thing I do regret not doing. You are almost to that point.

[bhermann]

The Hunt practicum was very useful to me as a first time builder for getting the hull and deck planked.  I think I also used the method there for building the transom.  I started moving away from it when it cam to deck furniture and the painting scheme.  I think Mr. Hunt misinterpreted the plans when it came to how the rails and upper sides of the hull were colored.  As Floyd said, if I'd been aware of MSW at the time, I might not have purchased the practicum at all, but having a detailed plan for planking the specific model I was building was a BIG help.  I didn't consider tree-nails or scale length planks at the time, I don't know that I would do one without the other.

 

It looks like you have a nicely shaped hull going.  Great job on that!

 

Bob

[popeye the sailor]

it's good to come away from them with ideas.......but I don't follow them,  as a rule.  I feel that it would take away from my own creativity,  if I used them too much.   I get a lot of technical ideas here as well..........it more than makes up for it.

[PopJack]

completed decking the quarterdeck today.  I did not leave cutouts for the cabins, which will be just shortened and placed on top of the deck boards. 

 

Started some rough sanding and managed to hit and break off a couple of the fame members with my sanding block.  I kept the pieces in case I decide to try and glue them back on.  I did give up sanding for the day though. 

 

I made a micro-sander out of an electric toothbrush.  Works, but is slow.  I'm thinking about getting a unit from Micromark.  Would appreciate any thoughts.

 

 

I put some scrap under the nibbing strake so that when I get around to filling the space the pieces won't be falling through. 

 

Obviously a lot more cleanup and sanding to do.

[popeye the sailor]

nice bit of progress PopJack...the deck looks great! 

[fnkershner]

Popjack - I would hold off doing the finish sanding on the hull until you plank the bulwarks. This will help keep you from breaking off the frame extensions and blend the hull together. Have you decided whether you are going to add the scuppers?

[PopJack]

I like the idea of the scuppers.  I skimmed one post about doing them, but came away without really understanding it.  I'm going to go back and re-read before I do any work on the bulwarks.  I thing they look good and need to be there. 

 

BTW, if I was doing another one of these, I would get a different wood for the deck.  The inherent color changes in the supplied bass distract from the boat.  I thought about doing "book match" and actually started to, then decided I was making a problem area even worse.  I've heard of people using other woods- is it Lime wood that preferred?

Edited October 21, 2013 by PopJack

[alabama498]

PopJack

 

 Looking great so far. I would agree with Floyd on waiting to sand the hull until you plank up to the rail line. I was concerned about the scuppers until I did them and they add a lot to the look. I used a flat file from a testors needle file kit, it was the perfect width. I marked out the spacing of the frame members on a plank and then filed notches into the plank to a uniform depth, than after I  finished planking up to where the top rail goes I glued the stanchions between the scuppers. If I didn't have such a hard time putting pictures on here I would take a picture and post it.

 

Brad

[PopJack]

Scupper Question:

As best I can figure, the scuppers in the excellent build logs were cut by combining a 1/16" X 1/16" and a 1/16" X 1/8"  strip of basswood to make the 1/16"X3/16" size that matched the hull planking.  (The scuppers being cut on one edge of the 1/16"X 1/8" strip with the other strip glued either to the top or bottom.)

 

Question: Was this wood taken from wood that came with the kit?  (If so, was it missed later) or was it purchased from a supplier.  I'm a bit nervous about running out of wood in various sizes later on.

 

Thanks.

[bhermann]

Scupper Question:

 

Question: Was this wood taken from wood that came with the kit?  (If so, was it missed later) or was it purchased from a supplier.  I'm a bit nervous about running out of wood in various sizes later on.

 

In my case, I believe I picked up 2 1/8x1/8X36" pieces (balsa, that's what they had) at my LHS - the 1/16 x 1/8 was kit stock.   It was 6 years ago so my memory may be a bit fuzzy About running out of wood, my kit was short on the number of 1/8 x 1/16 strips supplied.  It contained 64 instead of the 70 in the parts list, but I didn't run out of that size (or any other up to this point).  These are details that were lost with MSW1, but that is my best recollection.

 

The only kit-supplied part I have tossed was one of the mast dowels.  It was just too warped for use.  I bought a replacement at Home Depot for that piece.

 

Bob

[fnkershner]

Popjack - I wouldn't worry about running out of wood. Remember the Guarantee from ME. I think I mentioned that when I built the Bluenose I replaced almost everything at least once. I don't to be your authority since I didn't do the scuppers. But I would suggest that if you were to take the first strake of bulwarks at the waterway and cut notches into the bottom of that piece with a small file and then just assemble your bulwarks. It should be all you need to do and it doesn't require additional lumber.

 

Also as Bob mentions above, I had to replaces all my mast sections twice. the first time I requested them from ME. They were just as warped as the first set. So like Bob I bought mine and the Hardware store.

[Elia]

PopJack,

 

I've followed along in silence and have been enjoying watching your build progress.  You're doing an outstanding job on Blue. 

 

Regarding the scuppers there are several approaches to incorporating them.  As you mentioned you could glue smaller square cross section strips onto the lower edge of a waist plank in order to form them.  You could cut the scuppers into the lower waist plank.  You could form them by using or fabricating a chisel-like device to cut them into a waist plank already glued onto the hull.  Or you could indent the scupper with a tool of the correct length and width, without fully cutting the material away.  In the Smuggler instruction manual they show this as an option.

 

If I recall correctly on my Arethusa hull the waist was made up of 2 x 3/32" wide planks.  Whether the scuppers are on the main deck or the fore deck dictated which of the two waist planks the scuppers were cut in.  I found it pretty easy to cut them out using the following technique.  My stanchions were already installed when I formed the scuppers so I had to mark where the stanchion edges were in order to cut the scuppers in the right stops and not have a scupper blocked by a stanchion.  I used a number 11 blade and knife to cut a small notch in the lower edge of the plank, with the blade edge facing upward, right next to the stanchion.  I then removed the plank, marked the length of the scupper, and cut another notch at the scupper's second end.  I then used the same blade to gently carve the scupper out of the plank.  I had to be consistent with re-placing the waist plank a lot of times but it worked out reasonably.  I have also used a fine square cross section file to file the scupper shape into the plank; the only down side of this is the fuzzies which result.  When cutting the scuppers with the no. 11 blade you won't get any fuzzies.

 

Hope this helps and stirs some thought on an approach.

 

All the best,

 

Elia

[DBorgens]

 

I filed the scuppers in a 3/16 x 1/16 plank. If you have the step correct you should file the quarterdeck scuppers into the "upper" edge of the plank and the foredeck on the lower edge. I believe I learned this method from Bob Hermann's post on Bob Hunt's forum and it made sense. Check the deck "step" height before you start. Mine is only 1/16 high, probably from earlier mistake. Measure the spacing carefully as little errors become apparent later, at least to the builder. Mine turned out pretty close to the stanchion spacing and I was pleased with the outcome for a first build. Check the depth of the scuppers against the deck as you start so you get that correct. I did scrap one or two planks in the process but did not run out of planks.

 

Don't worry about the overall height since you will sand down the hull to the correct rail height (again from Bob Hunt's practicum). The picture shows foredeck scuppers after I sanded the rail height. Scorch marks from the Dremmel drum, which went quick but plunged a little in a few spots (minor repair opportunity). I placed the false stanchions using a short stick for spacer gage so rather than align with the scuppers. Uneven stanchions would be more evident on the model.

 

Whichever method you choose, give it a try and experiment on some short lengths of planking. At worst you might have to buy a few more sticks.

 

Dave B

[Richard Griffith]

Hi Popjack, nice work on this most beautiful of schooners!  I also started this one but put it on hold when I got to the hull planking stage  The reason is that I need to finish Le Soliel Royal (Heller kit with many upgrades) which has a deadline. 

 

Whenever I get plywood that delaminates, I soak the edges with thin CA and place the plywood under weights.

 

Warped masts must be replaced as prior posts advised.  If you are handy with a wood plane, making them out of hard wood is one ot the best methods.  Dowels are usually made from ramin which needs careful filling of the grain.  Be careful of the dust as ramin has a health risk to our breathing.

 

Stay the course and keep us posted on your progress~!

 

Duffer

[PopJack]

Guys: Thanks for all the excellent advise.  I really appreciate the input.

I haven't looked at the dowels yet, but I'll be extra careful.  I also haven't decided how to do the scuppers.  With any luck I'll get home this weekend and get to give it a try.

Whenever I get plywood that delaminates, I soak the edges with thin CA and place the plywood under weights.

Great idea. I should have done that.  Next time I'll know.
 

[fnkershner]

There is a simple trick on the mast sections. Lay them on a flat table and let them roll. If they don't roll they need to be replaced.

[PopJack]

I've ordered a needle file small enough to cut scuppers.  I've decided on a technique- we'll see what happens.

 

I notice that the strake than contains the scuppers also has a cove cut into it.  I am assuming that this is best cut with a scraper, probably fashioned from a razor blade.  Any thoughts on that are appreciated.

[themadchemist]

I used a hand drill and needle file on the scuppers on the DSotM and it worked fine. You actually did a move aggressive scupper addition to your swift then I did by cutting them into the inner waterways. I always liked that part of your build as it made better mechanical sense for water removal. I assumed that would be how you would attack the bluenoses. Needle files are great, I couldn't have gotten to where I am without them

 

I'm not sure about the cove but scrapers are another handy item and single blade razor blades are great for scaping down molding. I've also seen somewhere on MSW where hacksaw blades were used to create scrapers.

 

She coming along nicely PopJack.

[Elia]

Popjack,

 

There are modelers here who've done amazing profiles cut into strip stock with scrapers here on MSW. I am definitely not one of them.  I had a dreadful experience with trying to make the cove on my schooner with a scraper made from a single edge razor blade.  My cove wandered a bit, which in natural wood didn't look too bad.  But putting some thin width masking tape into the wandering cove resulted in very wandering cove stripe.  I ended up cutting the offending strip of wood off and replaced it with a solid piece, and solely used the masking tape to created the yellow cove stripe.  It is now clearly better - but not perfect.  I used 1/64" wide tape and found it was very difficult to control how it layed down onto the waist planking.

 

Elia

[PopJack]

I made a scraper out of a single edged razor blade using the cut off wheel and a dremmel.

 

I paid very close attention to THEMADCHEMIST remarks about the groove in the razor blade fitting the wood exactly.  The first one had too big a groove and made a bad line.  The second made a great line- straight as an arrow, in maybe six passes.  I'm not celebrating yet because when I glued the piece on it became apparent there will be a lot of sanding- which will unfortunately make the depth of the groove uneven.

 

I'm leaving town on business for a while, so I will be back on it in a week or so.

[PopJack]

Short version: Built some deck furniture.  Started painting the hull.

 

LONG VERSION:

 

Well it was a "bad paint day."  (But at least my hair looked good).

 

Over the last couple of days, I have shot the hull with grey primer (AlClAD II) from my air brush.  I sanded between coats and have ... oh... maybe four full coats.  Today, I decided to shoot a strip of white about where the white stripe will go.  I thinned the Model Expo white with alcohol and put on a nice coat.  I let it set a bit (30 minutes) and then re-coated.

 

Yesterday I picked up some stuff called "air brush cleaner" from a big box hobby store because it was cheaper than the ALCLAD stuff.   It claimed to be good for "water base" paints.   I dumped the remainder of the white paint and filled the bottle with this cleaner.  I then started just washing the fluid through the brush preparatory to taking it apart..  It was about that time that I noticed that there were white cheese curds in my glass paint bottle on the gun.  I pulled the gun out of the device into which I spray it to clean it and there was NO SPRAY coming out at all.

 

Taking the little gun apart I discovered that the "air brush cleaner" had solidified the pigment into the consistency of cheese curds which had then immediately clogged up the gun. 

 

It took nearly two hours to get the gun clean using a combination of lacquer thinner, mineral spirits and alcohol.  The gun seems to be working well now.  I'm not sure why this "cleaner" did this to my gun.  When I smelled the stuff, it smells like maybe alcohol diluted with water-- not sure.

 

Anyway I set everything aside to dry and made the front hatch and started the ventilator. light.  I just went back to look at it.  The white paint has allowed the primer to bleed through and now I have a nice "battleship grey" boat.

Maybe I'll install some cannons and call it good.

[popeye the sailor]

it's probably just 'ghosting'  popjack......best thing to do in this case is to let it dry for a day or so,  and then hit it with another coat of white.  don't thin it out as much,  and you should be fine.   white is a terrible color to paint

[PopJack]

Thanks Popeye, will do.