Le Soleil Royal by Bill97 - FINISHED - Heller - 1/100

[Hubac's Historian]

It’s non-sensible what Heller drew, there, but part 162 is actually the fore-halliard knight for the forecastle deck on step 14.  I have no idea why they are showing it with the quarterdeck assembly.  I suppose it is the same forward-thinking that has you assembling the main deck long before necessary.

[Ian_Grant]

Bill, according to my older printed instructions English translation for page 5, there are six "large knightheads" formed from pairs of part #162 glued back to back, and twenty-four "small knightheads" formed from pairs of part #163 glued back to back.

 

These are scattered over the forecastle deck (9), the main deck (7 & 8), the quarterdeck (10), and the poop deck (11).

 

The forecastle deck (9) gets two of the 162 just in front of the fore mast, and eight of the 163 along the bulwarks.

 

The main deck gets four of the 163 knightheads two each side just behind the main mast.

 

The quarterdeck (10) gets four of the 162 near the mizzen mast, three of the 163 knightheads along the starboard bulwark, and another three of the 163 near the mizzen mast.

 

The poop deck (11) gets six of the 163 knightheads, two pair to port and one pair to starboard.

 

In my instructions Heller has multiple dotted lines running to the various deck locations for these parts. It's sometimes hard to see what goes where exactly, particularly around the mizzen mast on the quarter deck.

 

Later on (page 10 in my instructions) there is a large diagram showing the two boats floating above the decks of the ship assembly. This is labelled "Habillage des Ponts" translated "Dressing the Decks". This illustration includes all the various knightheads in place, and it is easier here to pick out the 162 "large" and 163 "small" ones. Note that a couple near the port bulwark are hidden from view in the drawing so don't let that confuse you.

 

Edited November 27, 2022 by Ian_Grant

[Ian_Grant]

37 minutes ago, Hubac's Historian said:

It’s non-sensible what Heller drew, there, but part 162 is actually the fore-halliard knight for the forecastle deck on step 14.  I have no idea why they are showing it with the quarterdeck assembly.  I suppose it is the same forward-thinking that has you assembling the main deck long before necessary.

Marc raises an interesting point. On my version of the page Bill showed there is no indication of the fore-halliard knight; it seemed to just appear magically on my page 10 "Dressing the Decks" diagram. But on closer inspection there it is on my page 9 in the  "Montage du Gaillard D-Avant" translated "Forward Quarter Deck Assembly". The fore-halliard knight is two parts #292 back-to-back.

 

Bill don't forget to trap and glue the main halliard knighthead (258 & 259) as you glue the main deck parts 7 and 8 together!!!!!!!!  This knighthead does not glue in afterward!!!!

[Bill97]

Ok Ian and Marc. Here is what I have matching the instructions, I think. Yes Ian I was guilty of forgetting to trap parts 258-259 between the deck halves. Luckily I noticed it while the glue was still wet and I was able to pry the halves apart in the center to get the part in then close it back up. I still need to add all the eyebolts, part # 343. I am making them from brass wire and blackening. Oddly enough the next page in the instructions has me put in the bottom deck, stern , and rudder which you seen in photos that I have accomplished. Then the next page has me preparing for the next deck coming up but includes step #26 which is gluing parts to the bottom of the main deck that I worked on in steps 6-14. It is almost like someone writing the instructions forgot a step and then when they remembered just stuck in it. 
 

Edited November 27, 2022 by Bill97

[Bill97]

Decided to go ahead and drill a pair of holes above each hatch for the cover halyards. I spaced them the same distance apart as the molded eyebolts on the hatch covers which is where later I will add actual eyebolts. I ean appropriate size thread through one hole an out the other and then added a spot of glue on the inside of the hull over it he thread which I hope will prevent me from accidentally pulling it out before I need them. Once I put the next deck in my hey will no longer be accessible. Also added the anchor rope through the hawser hole. 

[popeye2sea]

Part #162 are the four large knight heads that go in a square pattern around the mizzen mast.  There will be three smaller knight heads (163?) that go in a triangle pattern around the mizzen. One centered in front of the mast and the other two in the holes outboard of the larger knight heads.

 

Regards,

Henry

 

I replied before I read the further posts.  This has already been answered. Oops!!

Edited November 28, 2022 by popeye2sea

[Bill97]

That’s ok Henry.  From what you say I am guessing later in the instructions I will add the  #162 around the mizzenmast. 

[Bill97]

Getting close to next deck being added. Any thoughts or recommendations before I do?  
 

 

[Hubac's Historian]

Just a general thought - you seem to be tearing through the project at a record pace.  I realize you are at a place in life where you have more time available to you, but I wonder whether you are enjoying the journey that making this model entails.  If so, then by all means rip-away at it.  Don’t hesitate, though, to take extra time on the more detailed aspects of the build that are coming up, such as the upper bulwarks.  A little extra time spent, here, pays enormous dividends at the end.

[Bill97]

Oh I agree Marc. Very food conversation I was even thinking about just last night. It did seem to me that this was going much faster than my Victory, which did concern me. Like you I do very much enjoy the journey and do not want this to come to completion to quickly. On one hand I do not want to limit the amount of time I allow myself to work on it because I do enjoy it so much and on the other I am accomplishing a lot maybe too quickly. I looked back at my Victory blog to see where I was in the similar amount of time. Of course on the Victory there was much more time spent on the detail of the hull with the painting of the stripes and the incredible stern, and adding Daniel’s etched pieces over each of the cannon hatches.  I am further along on my SR at the same amount of time. Part of that is due to what I learned from my Victory. I knew I was going to add the Evergreen around the hatches so I had that on hand and just did it. Where as on the Victory I had to learn about it, find it, and study how to do it. I expect the knowledge I gained on building the Victory will speed my process at various times along the way on my SR.  Other than adding the Evergreen to the hatches and the detail I tried to add to the paint job (nail heads, weathering, etc) there was not much other bashing I could do. That is when I decided to ask you guys for advice as to things you recommend I do before moving to the next big step. The upper bulwarks will be very time consuming. I will be doing gold leaf against a blue background on all the ornamentation. I expect this will take days and days. I also expect rigging of the visible cannons will be time consuming and tedious. Which reminds me I need to get some 2 or 2.5 mm blocks before that time comes. Looking ahead in the instructions it appears I will soon be getting to the bowsprit which will need various blocks attached to it. On my Victory I used a combination of wood and plastic blocks. On the SR I am aiming to go all wood blocks and deadeyes if I can find the sizes I need. I do have a great supply of plastic blocks I got from Kevin and the Heller blocks that came with the kit surprisingly do not look to bad. The deadeyes not so much!  I don’t know if Heller improved their blocks mold. Will have to send photo. So there are some decisions I need to make soon and shipping times to be accepted. That can all take place while I work on the he upper bulwarks on the side. On top of all that it does seem to me that at least 3/4 of my Victory build time was once I started adding the mast and rigging. I constantly read through other builds looking for any “oh I should do that”s. 

[Bill97]

Do these look like the same block you guys got with your kits?

[Hubac's Historian]

Yup, that is as the blocks have always been.  What I don’t like about them is that there’s no channel to properly attach and seize the line to.

[Bill97]

Yeah that is the same with me. When I used them particularly on my he Victory I had to use my knife to cut a groove on each side. 
Let me ask you this Marc. Blocks are usually oval shape. When it says a block is 3mm, 4mm, or whatever, is that the length or width of the oval? What would this block be considered? A 4mm block?

[Hubac's Historian]

I believe those are length dimensions, although I have yet to buy replacement wooden blocks.

[Bill97]

I am making out my Christmas list for the family. This year it will include my future needed wooden blocks and deadeyes for the SR. It will be a long time before I need them but might as well get them in my stash as a gift. Mikael says 5, 4, 3.5, and 2.5mm deadeyes will cover what I will need. I am attempting to measure and match the size, count, and types (sheave count) of the molded Heller blocks to see what to put on my list. What I think I am measuring is 3mm single sheave, 5mm single, double, and triple sheave, 7mm single sheave, and 8mm and 6mm pear shape blocks. 3mm single sheave is the vast majority at almost 400. 

[Hubac's Historian]

Yeah, it’s a crazy amount of blocks.

[popeye2sea]

I have 3, 4, and 5mm dead eyes for my build.  I used 2mm blocks for all the cannon rigging.  I plan on 2.5mm for the smallest jewel blocks and the like while the majority of the rigging will be 3, 4, and 5mm up to 6 and 7mm for the very largest of the blocks (main stay, top ropes, and mast tackle pendants).  I purchased most of what I will need already from Syren.  The dimension of blocks usually refers to the overall length.  

 

I find the molded Heller blocks to be very unrealistic. I will not use them.

 

Take a look at what I did to move the fore halyard knight head.  It should not be directly behind the fore mast.  If left there the main stay will foul the halyard tackle.  I shifted the knight head to starboard.

 

Regards,

Henry

[Bill97]

Oh that’s right Henry. I remember reading about that in your build. Will look back at it. I already have it glued in place but maybe I can move it with out to much damage I can’t fix. 

[Kevin-the-lubber]

Bill, you’re getting through this at such pace! I can see all that learning on the Victory paying off here and it’ll be interesting to see how that plays out with the rigging. I’ve always assumed the SR would take ages. I love the paintwork by the way, both on the hull and decks. You’ve really nailed that.

[Bill97]

Thanks Kevin. I really appreciate that. Gotta study this bash Henry recommends. I got that  part in solid and looking great with the paint on and around it. It is the big knight head that is pinched between the two deck halves. Yuck!!!

[popeye2sea]

NO!  It is the knight head at the fore mast on the forecastle deck.  The large one aft of the main mast can stay where it is! 

 

Regards,

Henry

 

Edited November 29, 2022 by popeye2sea

[Bill97]

Whew!  Thank you for stopping me before I screwed up. It does not appear I have even installed that yet. That comes long time from now at step #61. 

Edited November 29, 2022 by Bill97

[Ian_Grant]

On 11/28/2022 at 12:34 PM, Hubac's Historian said:

Yup, that is as the blocks have always been.  What I don’t like about them is that there’s no channel to properly attach and seize the line to.

Looking at Bill's pictures, and recalling my unused Heller Victory blocks, I wonder if those little stubbies sticking out of the sides were meant to prevent the strop thread from slipping off, if one passed the strop to left-right-left-right of the stubbies? I think one would be better just to file a notch at each end of each side no need to groove all the way along. Wonder if I will follow this advice if/when I get to my SR?

[Ian_Grant]

14 hours ago, Kevin-the-lubber said:

Bill, you’re getting through this at such pace! I can see all that learning on the Victory paying off here and it’ll be interesting to see how that plays out with the rigging. I’ve always assumed the SR would take ages. I love the paintwork by the way, both on the hull and decks. You’ve really nailed that.

Bill is striving to complete his SR build so he can move on to a Heller Preussen kit. A kit which builds into another impressive model. Even though I paused mine, too chicken to do the ratlines.

[Hubac's Historian]

That’s an interesting thought on the block nubbies, Ian.

[Bill97]

What’s that Ian? Heller Preussen?  Is that a kit I need to look at for maybe starting in 2025? 😀

[Bill97]

Ian I am reading through your Heller Preussen build now. 

[Ian_Grant]

Seriously, it is a very nice kit of a totally impressive ship. As a bonus she had no cannons to rig.

 

A good FUTURE project.

[Bill97]

Thanks my friend. I will consider it. I really enjoy when we all seem to be on MSW at the same time. Kind of cool. 

[Bill97]

That is an interesting thought about the nubbies. For the Heller blocks I used on the Victory I did clip them off and file a groove. Thankfully I got some blocks from Kevin that he had 3D printed with a groove. The other issue with the Heller blocks is painting them to look authentic!  Even if painted while still mounted in the spruel the job is tedious. You can airbrush a base color but still have to hit a couple weathering colors on each by tiny brush. I have ordered all new wood blocks and deadeyes for my future use. Will use my supply of resin blocks for backup if I run short on a particular size. Not sure what to do with these 4 spruels of blocks in the Heller kit. Hate to toss them in the trash.