Le Soleil Royal by Bill97 - FINISHED - Heller - 1/100

[popeye2sea]

The drift between the upper and lower deadeyes should be 2 times, or slightly more, of the diameter of the deadeyes.

 

Regards,

 

Henry

[Bill97]

Thanks Henry. I had just fond this online. Gary M replied the distance was anywhere between 3 and 5 times the diameter of the deadeye, with 4 times the diameter being the most common. I held up a test of 5 times and thought that looked way to wide. I was looking more at something between 2and 3 times the diameter which is more in line with your trusted opinion. 

Edited July 14, 2023 by Bill97

[Bill97]

Lower shrouds for fore mast served, hung, and numbered. Ready for rigging the deadeyes and lanyards. 

[Bill97]

I have the lower shrouds on the fore and main mast served hung and numbered. I also have the main mast deadeyes set up for rigging using the method I have long used that works great for me. I take a thin piece of craft wood about the length of the channel and a bit wider than what I expect the deadeye spacing to be. I then fit this piece of wood on the channel behind the lower deadeyes. If there is any obstruction like the little knees on the SR I just notch them out for a flush fit. I make a mark above a deadeye then remove the piece of wood. I am using 5mm deadeyes for my mainmast so I expect the mark to be close to 5mm from the edge. I then draw a line using this mark parallel to the bottom edge of the wood. This line represents the top of all my lower deadeyes. I then determine the distance I want between my upper and lower deadeyes. I like between 2 and 3 times the diameter of the deadeye I am using. So in this situation I am going with 13mm between my upper and lower deadeye. I draw a line on the piece of wood parallel to the bottom line and 13mm apart. This new line represents the bottom of my upper deadeyes. I then place the piece of wood back on the channel behind the deadeyes and use several push pins through the holes in the lower deadeyes to lock it in place. To determine the proper position of the upper deadeyes I stretch out the numbered shrouds over the appropriate lower deadeye and mark the top line where the shrouds cross it. This mark now represents the bottom of each upper deadeye. Again using push pins I simply pin the upper deadeye at the mark insuring the center hole of the deadeye is up. Sometimes a second pin the the deadeye is necessary to keep it from turning. Once all of the deadeyes are pinned in place they are locked in the desired parallel position I will want. Now it is just a matter of rigging each deadeye to it’s shroud. I have a matching arrangement on the opposite side as well. So as I rig the deadeyes I can work side to side to insure the lower mast stays vertical. With the wood reinforcement in the mast it really does not move and the pins hold the deadeye tight enough that I can put as much tension on the shroud as I want. Once a shroud is rigged I can remove the pin and set it free if necessary. It is very important to maintain numbers on the finished shrouds. Once all are rigged the pins are removed and the piece of wood is removed. The shrouds are now ready for the laniards. The final result will be the deadeyes lined up just as they were on the piece of wood. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 17, 2023 by Bill97

[Bill97]

Process underway. Arrow is to remind me which direction ends lay

[Bill97]

Lower shrouds for mainmast rigged to deadeyes. Leaving laniard ends long until all adjustments in the future are complete. Then I will clip and add a spot of glue. Will wait until further into the rigging to add the ratlines. I am satisfied with the pretty straight line of the upper deadeyes. Now on to the foremast. 

[Bill97]

Foremast lower shrouds rigged. Again, as with the mainmast, I am waiting to do the final tie off of the laniards and add the ratline until later in the rigging process. Would any of you guys know how to keep the deadeye on the end of the shroud from turning?  Most of mine on both the fore and main mast are turned about 10 to 15 degrees off parallel to the channel. I rigged the deadeyes to where the shroud ends lay forward on one side and aft on the other. Just curious if this small amount of turning is OK?  I know during this time period a bar would not have been used/added above these deadeyes. 

Edited July 20, 2023 by Bill97

[Bill97]

Mizzenmast lower shrouds now rigged. Never know if I should go ahead and tackle the ratlines or wait until after more rigging is complete. My curiosity is the instructions show a number of blocks tied to the shrouds for future rigging. Their placement seems to be very in specific locations on the shrouds that are determined by where the ratlines are. I suppose there is not a reason to tie all the blocks on now. I can just add them as I am rigging each line but that still makes me curious as to when to add the he ratlines.

 

 

[Ian_Grant]

Really like your stand, Bill. And the ship, of course!

[Hubac's Historian]

To answer that question, Bill, I would reference builds by some of the more experienced builders to see how they sequence the rigging.  Because it is of the period and very present in my mind, here is an extraordinary model of the HMS Sussex:

 

 

Of course, there is also Marsalv’s Gros Ventre and Archjofo’s La Creole - two of the most exactingly rigged models on the forum, IMO.

 

 

[Bill97]

Thanks Ian. Appreciate the comment. I saw the design for the stand somewhere on the internet. Used mahogany to make it to go along with the mahogany paint I used on the different areas of the ship. 

 

Marc I waited until I was almost finished rigging my Victory before I did the ratlines. I planned to do the same on my SR until I saw the number of blocks to be tied to he shrouds around he ratlines. That is what gave me pause for my plan. Will look through KarenM’s build. Enjoy your vacation. 

[Bill97]

This is the issue that has me. The attached photo shows the shroud/ratline sets and the blocks to be attached. I almost have to tie the ratlines in order to determine the block placements. 

[Baker]

On 7/21/2023 at 11:36 PM, Bill97 said:

should go ahead and tackle the ratlines or wait

ratlines.
getting started is always an exciting experience.
But after a while it can get boring.
I would start already, then you can do something else in between if you get tired of it 😉

[Bill97]

Yeah Patrick you’re probably right. I just sometimes think when I am rigging “gosh if those ratlines were not in the way it would be so much easier to get to that…..”. I think I love me your idea to alternate between doing ratlines and other things. Mainmast lower shrouds ratlines underway!  

[Bill97]

Before I get heavy into the ratlines I decided to add the forestay and the mainstay. Using a combination of the Heller instructions and Anderson’s book I installed the forestay. Please be kind and don’t tell me I did something wrong 😀. This was not a simple process. The mouse and loop at the top was OK and not real difficult. It is the same as on my HMS Victory. The largest thread I have is 1mm. I wanted something for the two stays a bit larger so I served the entire length of the predetermined length of 1mm thread and a .3mm thread together inside my serving thread. The result is about a 1.4mm thread that I like for the stays. This was a bit more trouble than just purchasing larger thread but since these two applications is the only time I need anything that big I just made it. The Heller instructions showed just making a simple eye in both the stay and the collar. Then reeve it together with thread. Anderson says on page 99 of his book that the forestay was set up with blocks, deadeyes, or hearts. I thought that makes more since so I went with a two 3 sheave blocks. The same block and process Heller describes for the mainstay setup. For visual interest I spaced the deadeyes the same distance apart as the foremast lower shroud deadeyes, 13mm.
I am now studying the mainstay setup. The loop and mouse at the top is the same as the forestay. The mainstay collar is going to take some research and head scratching. Heller shows making a stay that has a two thread composition that goes around the foremast then to an additional length of thread to continue on toward the collar. Three sheave blocks are used to connect the stay and the collar. Anderson on pages 100 and 101 describes several different collar configurations. All of them seem to have the block attached to the collar being as high as the rail on the beakhead bulkhead. Heller describes this collar only being 1” long. This shorter length results in the stay breaking over and rubbing on the beakhead bulkhead, which I don’t expect was the case. Please enlighten me. 

[popeye2sea]

Here is my thoughts on the main stay: The way that Heller suggests setting up the stay does not really work. There is a collar around the stem with the tackle to set up the stay and second collar around the fore mast which would actually prevent the tackle from being functional. You could not actually set up the stay.

 

I intend to extend the mainstay collar so that the tackle comes abaft the fore mast.  This allows the stay to be set up properly, and where the collar breaks over the beakhead bulkhead would not be a problem because the collar does not really move and chafe against the bulkhead.  An extra piece of leather chafing gear at this location would suffice for any slight working of the line.

 

This is also why I elected to move the fore knight over to starboard a bit. That gives me enough clearance for the main stay tackle to not foul the fore halliard.

 

Regards,

Henry

 

[Bill97]

Wow Henry there is some good stuff here to unpack. I think I understand. Are you explaining like Anderson shows in this example?

[Bill97]

About 60 percent of the ratlines on the starboard side of the main lower shrouds tied. A little adjustments before applying a touch of glue at the knots. Now with Henry’s advice I can rig the mainstay correctly, and then back to tying ratlines. 

Edited July 24, 2023 by Bill97

[Bill97]

Good morning Marc. How is vacation going?

[Hubac's Historian]

A little chocka-block.  We were delayed getting out to Hampton Bays by a day, and I was only there for a day and a half.  Today, my sister and I will take our Dad out for his 89th birthday with friends.  I’ll work a couple of days and then head back out to the Hamptons for a couple more days.

 

Ironically, and in spite of the heatwave, I love the sauna and hot-tub, so I make full use of them while I’m there.  Also, my son has been bit by the basketball bug, so we spend a fair amount of time at the courts together.  Shooting a basketball has always been one of the single-most relaxing pass-times for me.

 

Tonight, when I get home, I’ll spend some time on the ship.  Maybe get my backboard glued in, and other parts prepped and painted.

 

I’ll have some more consistent time off, the second week of August, so that will be nice.  Thanks for asking!

[Hubac's Historian]

Here are a few pics that might be useful to you bill.

 

The Louis Quinz model:

 

Lemineur’s St Philippe:

Bjorn Landstrom:

 

[Bill97]

Thanks Marc. The last picture (3rd) is very helpful showing the mainstay collar. Going to work on that today. I know I am going to take both sides of the collar under the rail of the beakhead bulkhead. Trying to decide if I will take both through the center opening between the balusters or one to the port side and one to the starboard side of those two center balusters. The diameter of the foremast base causes the collar to bow out just slightly and touch against the inside of the two center balusters. If I go to the next opening port and starboard they touch the outside of the baluster. To my eye going through the inside just looks more refined maybe. I know in action this collar would not move and rub the balusters so I guess it would not really matter. 
 

On a much more important topic, how is your dad doing. Glad you are enjoying your vacation. Keep your son shooting hoops. Maybe someday he might be a Cardinal 😀

[Hubac's Historian]

Dad is good today - we had a nice birthday lunch!

[Bill97]

Marc I am glad to hear that about your dad. 
 

Mainstay collar complete. Double cable where it went around the bowsprit. Then up through the center most opening in the bulkhead beakhead rail, then to the aft side of the foremast where I added a 3 sheave block that will fix to a similar block on the fall end of the mainstay. 

[Bill97]

Should have included this photo as well showing the collar going up through the rail. 

[Bill97]

Fore and mainstay completed in accordance with Anderson’s book. This rigging if the mainstay does seem to make better sense than Heller’s instruction. Also finished the ratlines on the starboard main lower shrouds. 

[Ferrus Manus]

Dude, nice ratlines! I would be very proud of those if i were you. 

[Bill97]

Three hundred fifteen half-hitch knots on one set of shrouds, but who’s counting? 😊

[Bill97]

Not to much to report. Just finished the ratlines on the port side of the main lower shrouds. Now to move to the foremast ratlines and some of the select rigging pieces like the ones highlighted in yellow (whatever they are called). 

[Ian_Grant]

Good luck Bill!! 🖖