Patrick B Posted January 15 Share #91 Posted January 15 Hi Capella, unlike Chimp, I sanded my first planking flush to the keel, and it looked great! The only thing is that there is a small gap underneath the bow's decoration but nearly unoticeable. The decision is yours. Cheers, Patrick B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Gimps Chimp Posted January 15 Share #92 Posted January 15 Hi Capella, Looking back at my build it looks like the keel was recessed at the bow but was then level (or even slightly proud) along the bottom. See photos: To be honest, I don't think it really matters as long as the keel is firmly attached to the false keel and the second planking is fitted up to it. The important issue is that the hull is smooth along it's length. So where I said about extending the first planking or using filler where it steps (where you circled), this needs to be smooth. You could build up the shorter planks with wood or filler, just a single piece of scrap wood is required: Or you could smooth down the longer planks to match the shorter ones. It doesn't really matter which way you choose Remember, the first planking is just a base for the second planking. It doesn't need to look nice but it's shape and profile is important. Chimp Mr Whippy and GrandpaPhil 2 Quote Current Build: .... Previous Builds: HMS Beagle - OcCre, HM Schooner Ballahoo - Caldercraft Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capella Posted February 10 Author Share #93 Posted February 10 It's been a while since I last posted an update, but as you'll see, I have not been idle on my ship! In my last post I had finished laying the first layer planks and smeared the hull with wood filler. Well, I've made quite a bit of progress since then: These pictures were taken after I had finished final sanding of the 2nd layer. You may have noticed in the 1st and 4th pictures the "blemish" near the forward keel of the port1` hull. The light part is planking from the 1st layer showing. I don't remember how exactly that happened, but it was exposed during my 2nd pass on sanding. Unfortunately, I don't recall in which thread I saw it, but I remembered coming across a post here at the MSW forums in which someone explained having a similar situation and he mostly fixed it by mixing sawdust with a bit of glue. Thinking about that, while sanding the hull I kept all of the sawdust. I then mixed a few of drops of PVA glue with a good amount of sawdust. It got pretty pasty, but I thought (hoped, really) it was workable. The mix was kinda gunky while spreading it on the spot, but I made sure to have enough on there to cover it and then some. I gave it a good few hours to dry. After re-sanding that area, here's what it looks like now: Not great, but better. If anyone asks, I'll just tell them the ship hit some rocks and they had to repair the hull! 😉 Anywho. That's it for now. Next step is to put a satin finish on the hull and move on. 'Till next time... Patrick B, The Gimps Chimp, GrandpaPhil and 1 other 4 Quote First build: US Ranger - Corel Second build: HMS Beagle - OcCre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFMJr Posted February 13 Share #94 Posted February 13 On 2/10/2024 at 12:21 PM, Capella said: It's been a while since I last posted an update, but as you'll see, I have not been idle on my ship! In my last post I had finished laying the first layer planks and smeared the hull with wood filler. Well, I've made quite a bit of progress since then: These pictures were taken after I had finished final sanding of the 2nd layer. You may have noticed in the 1st and 4th pictures the "blemish" near the forward keel of the port1` hull. The light part is planking from the 1st layer showing. I don't remember how exactly that happened, but it was exposed during my 2nd pass on sanding. Unfortunately, I don't recall in which thread I saw it, but I remembered coming across a post here at the MSW forums in which someone explained having a similar situation and he mostly fixed it by mixing sawdust with a bit of glue. Thinking about that, while sanding the hull I kept all of the sawdust. I then mixed a few of drops of PVA glue with a good amount of sawdust. It got pretty pasty, but I thought (hoped, really) it was workable. The mix was kinda gunky while spreading it on the spot, but I made sure to have enough on there to cover it and then some. I gave it a good few hours to dry. After re-sanding that area, here's what it looks like now: Not great, but better. If anyone asks, I'll just tell them the ship hit some rocks and they had to repair the hull! 😉 Anywho. That's it for now. Next step is to put a satin finish on the hull and move on. 'Till next time... Looks great! Capella 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capella Posted February 16 Author Share #95 Posted February 16 Well, as I knew, once I got past the hull, progress would pick up. I finished the hull and started on the strakes and inside "pretties": I gotta tell you, cutting those diamond-shaped pieces to all match was a challenge - for me, at least. But, I know they'll be covered up and hidden by a lot of other stuff going on as things get added to the deck and rails. Currently, I'm painting the hull and rails. I'll probably post updates on that this weekend. Until then... Capella GrandpaPhil, Patrick B, RobTBay and 2 others 5 Quote First build: US Ranger - Corel Second build: HMS Beagle - OcCre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capella Posted February 17 Author Share #96 Posted February 17 Hi, All No update to post yet. I've made more progress so far this weekend, but I'll post a progress update tomorrow. One thing I wanted to point out to anyone who hasn't done this build yet: the spacing for the vertical posts (chafing boards, I believe??). I wanted to ensure that the spacing was even along the length of the hull, so I ended up plotting it out on graph paper. Sorry for my crappy writing, but as you can see both forward and aft of the gap in the hull, the two end spaces are 1mm each wider than the spacing for the middle spaces - except for the port, forward section, which turned out to be 2mm longer than the corresponding section on the starboard side. Don't know how that happened, but I just compensated for that by adding 1mm to the two spacings towards the middle from the fore and aft ends on that side. Hope that helps someone. _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Also, a question to those who have done page "G" in the plans. Specifically, the two pre-formed metal pieces that go on the aft of the ship and have windows on them. Looking very closely at the pics in the guide, the windows themselves look slightly "bluer" than the black surrounding them. I went through a lot of the Beagle build logs here, trying to find others' pics of those - or even any comments about doing those, but I wasn't too successful. I got the Occre paint set for the Beagle and don't seem to have any color that might make the windows slightly lighter, other than just painting them black. Suggestions on that, anyone? I mean, I wouldn't be terribly disappointed if I just ended up painting the windows black and moving on, but I thought I'd check first. Thanks! Capella Quote First build: US Ranger - Corel Second build: HMS Beagle - OcCre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Gimps Chimp Posted February 17 Share #97 Posted February 17 1 hour ago, Capella said: I went through a lot of the Beagle build logs here, trying to find others' pics of those - or even any comments about doing those, but I wasn't too successful. I got the Occre paint set for the Beagle and don't seem to have any color that might make the windows slightly lighter, other than just painting them black. Suggestions on that, anyone? I mean, I wouldn't be terribly disappointed if I just ended up painting the windows black and moving on, but I thought I'd check first. How about mixing a new colour from those you have? When I did mine I went with a dark blue/green. I think I should have gone a little lighter though. Chimp Mr Whippy 1 Quote Current Build: .... Previous Builds: HMS Beagle - OcCre, HM Schooner Ballahoo - Caldercraft Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFMJr Posted February 18 Share #98 Posted February 18 5 hours ago, The Gimps Chimp said: How about mixing a new colour from those you have? When I did mine I went with a dark blue/green. I think I should have gone a little lighter though. Chimp I have been wondering about this myself. I personally don't think the blue can represent anything? Mine are currently black. What do you all think about a more realistic color like light coming through the window? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFMJr Posted February 18 Share #99 Posted February 18 On 2/16/2024 at 8:12 AM, Capella said: Well, as I knew, once I got past the hull, progress would pick up. I finished the hull and started on the strakes and inside "pretties": I gotta tell you, cutting those diamond-shaped pieces to all match was a challenge - for me, at least. But, I know they'll be covered up and hidden by a lot of other stuff going on as things get added to the deck and rails. Currently, I'm painting the hull and rails. I'll probably post updates on that this weekend. Until then... Capella Hull is awesome. beautiful planking. Capella 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonSangria Posted February 19 Share #100 Posted February 19 I did my windows a dark blue and glued a little transparent foil on top to simulate glass. But it should not be too gloss at that scale... Mine was something between gloss and satin. Capella 1 Quote Current build: HMS Sphinx 1:64 (Vanguard Models) Finished: HMS Beagle 1:60 (Occre) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFMJr Posted February 20 Share #101 Posted February 20 On 2/17/2024 at 9:41 PM, JFMJr said: Hull is awesome. beautiful planking. Your diamond cuts look as good as they get... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LucienL Posted March 16 Share #102 Posted March 16 Hi Capella. On the point you raise about the metal parts G11 and G12, these are false quarter galleys, and are just decoration. I don't think they would have actually been glass, but I might be wrong on that. I chose to go with what the replica had done and paint them white. Mr Whippy and Patrick B 2 Quote Previous builds: HMS Bounty's Launch (Model Shipways), USS Albatros (OcCre) Current build: HMS Beagle (OcCre) Future builds: HMB Endeavour (Caldercraft), De Zeven Provinciën (Kolderstok), HMS Victory (Caldercraft/De Agostini/Artesania Latina/Corel) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capella Posted August 21 Author Share #103 Posted August 21 Hey, guys. I know - it's been ages since my last update, but lots of life events have occurred that have taken priority over working on my project. I'm currently in the beginning stages of getting a new workspace set up and hope to be back up and working in a couple/few weeks. In the meantime, I bought a shelf set to display this ship and my first one (in my sig) and wanted to check to make sure the shelves that I bought were wide enough (yeah, I know, maybe I should've checked that first before buying the shelves, but I really wanted to get my first ship on display ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ ). Anyway, if someone could provide me the measurements of the widest point of the Occre Beagle, I'd greatly appreciate it! GrandpaPhil 1 Quote First build: US Ranger - Corel Second build: HMS Beagle - OcCre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonSangria Posted August 22 Share #104 Posted August 22 You can measure the main yard off the plans, that should give the widest point, more or less. If that is too wide for your shelf, you could brace the yards around as I did on my Beagle (See signature) Quote Current build: HMS Sphinx 1:64 (Vanguard Models) Finished: HMS Beagle 1:60 (Occre) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capella Posted August 22 Author Share #105 Posted August 22 4 hours ago, DonSangria said: You can measure the main yard off the plans, that should give the widest point, more or less. If that is too wide for your shelf, you could brace the yards around as I did on my Beagle (See signature) Thanks, @DonSangria. Didn't think of that! Quote First build: US Ranger - Corel Second build: HMS Beagle - OcCre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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