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Posted

Rich,

 

In the beginning I used a shiny varnish but now I'm using a dull varnish.....

It makes a little darker then it is but protects the wood.

The only thing is when you are doing it now, be sure when you have to glue an other part on it, remove a little varnish.

 

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Posted

Construction has come to a halt while I try to get 2mm x 2mm Ayous (blond) strips to finish all trim. I seem to have run out and just e-mailed Constructo to see if they can send me about 500 to 600 mm.

Posted

Oh well...I have to obey orders. I do have some small items I can attend to on my ship while I make my area ship shape. Oh, Sjors, thanks for the varnish removal tip. Do you sand it off?

Posted

I haven't even heard back from Constructo?

 

In the meantime I'll start fabricating the channels for the rigging. They will be 9.5mm deep by 3mm thick. Any ideas as to how to strongly attached them to the hull? I assume some sort of pinning along with glue, but I must place them very accurately to avoid running a shroud in front of a gunport.

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Posted

Yes, pinning is the answer for the channels.  I use thin wire, depending on the thickness of the channel.  Something like 28 gauge.  Mount them in the channel then position it to define the holes in the hull.  They make a tremendous difference in strength.  You don't need many and they need not be very long.

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

Posted

Other than Model Expo I generally do not waster my time sending them anything and take care of the problem myself.  As for the channels you should pin them.  Once properly located drill some holes and put in some wire I nromally use brass rod that I have lying around. I then place it against the hull where I want it and then drill foor the rod.  A drop of epoxy and the job is done.  Once fully rigged those channels are going nowhere.

David b

Posted (edited)

My shipyard renovations are going very smoothly with the Admiral helping me! Got an electrician coming in two weeks to add lights and electrical outlets. Still no reply from Constructo about my shortage of 2mm x 2mm trim?

Edited by Hipexec
Posted

Here's my new dry dock. It raises up my model for better viewing without stooping and I can rotate it to easily get at the stern or bow. The Admiral ordered shipyard renovation is coming along.

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Posted

Except for the new lights over my workbench, my new shipyard is complete. All the stuff I had piled to the left and right of my workbench have been neatly stored on the nearby closet that my Admiral allotted me. I also added two feet of working space on my bench and of course my new drydock. I'll shall resume ship building forthwith. I'm still trying to get 2mm x 2mm ayous trim with no luck. I've found every size but 2mm x 2mm?

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Posted

Hola  Rich,

 

as far as I know the two are similar in color and weight, and unless there are for a very specific use I think you can use either.

 

Saludos, Karl

Posted

Rich,

Take a look at my stern ring and gun ports, those are boxwood and the other white wood is Constructo's Ayous, I think the only difference is a slightly more open grain on the Ayous. Oh and the boxwood I received from Hobby Mill is a bit harder/denser. I actually prefer the boxwood after working with it. It sands nicer also. Basswood tends to fuzz up in my limited experience.

Sam

Current Build Constructo Enterprise

Posted

While checking for how to accurately place items on my model, I ran across a drawing of what the original USS Constitution used the bow area for.....according to this drawing, it was the head for all the men! I wonder why no kit shows the bow with numerous seats with holes in them?

Posted

That was pretty standard back in the day.  They may have been just open 'seats of ease' or  perhaps enclosed 'in roundhouses' up on the bow.  For the officers, they were mostly in the quarter galleries in the stern.

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

Posted

While checking for how to accurately place items on my model, I ran across a drawing of what the original USS Constitution used the bow area for.....according to this drawing, it was the head for all the men! I wonder why no kit shows the bow with numerous seats with holes in them?

Very few mfgrs of kits ad the heads. it could be cultural or they never thought about it.  In fact in most kits you will find them omitted and most people will never notice.

David B

Posted

Rich, Thats Boxwood I used on the gun ports not Basswood. Basswood is a bit softer in my experience. I imagine you could use Basswood and never see the difference although Basswood fuzzes up a bit when you sand. A thin wash of finish will stiffen up the fibers and then another light sanding and you should have a nice smooth surface although that will mess with your staining later if you go that rout. 

Sam

Current Build Constructo Enterprise

Posted

Rich,

Cut some length(s) and place them on a smooth surface - your self healing mat is great for this- and then take a piece of  1x3, 2x4 what ever and just roll it back and forth. The link below is about making nails but there is a section where the builder shows how to do it.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3315-making-small-nails-with-round-head/?hl=nails

Sam

Current Build Constructo Enterprise

Posted (edited)

After I shaped them to fit the hull, I layed out the channels and here I am putting Sapele veneer on them. I marked where the chainplate holes will be drilled. After I put the edge trim on them I will pin and glue them in place. I have taped them on to their own well marked slot on a sheet of paper so I don't mix them up.

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Edited by Hipexec
Posted

Yes...just a coil of wire. I'm not too happy with that. There are 78 chain plates to make. So, I'm looking for some other alternative. I don't think I have the metal working skills to make 78 all looking exactly the same. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Posted

That's a good trick....rolling the bent wires with another small board. Now, how do I get a nice smooth, flattened flange to drill two small holes? When I flatten the wire end with pliers or a vise grip...I get a corrugated effect.

Posted

The wire rolls out nice and straight. Now I'm trying to flatten the end so I can drill small nail holes, but all I get when I flatten the wire with pliers or vise grips is a rippled effect. How do I get a nice smooth flange?

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