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Posted
Posted

Just finished putting the side trim and making the chainplate holes in the channels. I read ahead in my instruction book to see if placing the holes where I did would give me a problem down the rigging road. I didn't see one so I plunged ahead. Tomorrow I'll glue on the front trim followed by pins, then mounting all six of them. 

 

Also, I'm experimenting with making chainplates as well as looking at other choices.

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Posted

Am I understanding correctly, you want to make round wire flat? I would say either heat it and pound it flat with a hammer or smooth jawed pliers. Home depot or Lows should have something. If you want a nice pair try a parallel jaw plier at a jewelry supply house. There are plenty online, my favorite is http://www.ottofrei.com/home.php. Just look up parallel pliers.

Now if you want to make your own chain plates its not as hard as it seems, just time consuming. There are a couple of good topics in the forums in the metal working section.

Sam

Current Build Constructo Enterprise

Posted

Here's my new tools for turning that coil of wire into chainplates. One is to flatten an end and the other is to help make loops. Time will tell. I've also finished trimming the channels.

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Posted

Rich,

When I made the chain plates for my Enterprise I started with a bunch of rings made from wrapping wire around a drill bit the correct diameter, that gave me consistent ring sizes, then it was just a matter of shaping the pre soldered rings. That kept everything consistent. I would imagine the more experienced builders out there can find flaws with my chain plates, but I am generally pleased with them.

Sam

Current Build Constructo Enterprise

Posted

Another day...another problem. I went to set pins in the channels before mounting to the hull and found out the channel material is much softer than the iron hard Sapele hull. When I pushed the channel into the hull...the pin just disappeared into the channel. So, I experimented and settled on setting the pin into the channel with Crazy Glue, then drilling the same size hole in the hull as the pin, then driving a small nail into the hull hole to widen it just enough for the channel pin to slip in but remain tight. It works! The channel is nice and tight even without any glue.

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Posted

One of the ways I flatten wire is once anealed I would use a small hammer and a steel plate o small anvil.

David B

Posted

Thanks for all the tips.

 

. Constructo might be slow, but they deliver good service. I e-mailed them my plight about running out of 2mm x 2mm Ayous and they told me today they are mailing some no charge! Yesterday I had purchased some Basswood a little oversized just in case I can't find Ayous. Phil's Hobby is out of Ayous.

Posted

This is how I'm mounting the channels. First I set two pins in each channel with some Crazy Glue since the channels are softer than the Sapele hull. Without the Crazy Glue the will only drive deeper into the channel instead of driving into the hull. Then I locate the places I want to set the pins into the hull by marking with pencil the latitude and longitude of each hole  so that the holes for the chainplates all line up. Then I drill a .5mm hole in each of the marked spots. Then I drive a small nail into each hole to widen it enough to take the pin snuggly. Then I remove the nails, erase the pencil marks and glue on the channels.

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Posted

In between projects I'm trying to trim the transom. Constructo just glues on simple single strips, so I've decided to try to emulate the stern trim on the Constitution as she sits in Boston harbor. My trouble is fat, shaky fingers trying to make fancy trim.

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Posted (edited)

Help!

 

Any tips and tricks to build and mount the boarding steps. I'd like exact standardization and evenness, so they don't look crooked, wrongly spaced  or of different sizes. The steps are about 8.7mm long and 2mm thick. Pretty small stuff. I glued a simulated step to hull material to see how good the glue holds. It seem pretty strong.

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Edited by Hipexec
Posted

I usually get the top one in the right place.  Then drop a vertical line on the left side with artist's tape (masking tape would do).  Then use a custom made horizontal spacer to set the rest.  Keep your magnifiers on and be really careful with the glue.  I use the smallest possible dab of thick CA as it gives me a few seconds to position.

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

Posted

Use a piece of tape mark on it the distance between the top and bottom step. Divide it by the number of steps then just mark eachstep on the tape. Put it on the model and use that for your tempkate

Posted

I've mass produced the rough steps. They are a 2mm Sapele plank glued to a 1mm Ayous that is slightly shorter. I mass cut them by making a stop on my plank cutter to a length slightly longer than needed. I'll need the extra length to detail file and sand to exact proportions. I used CA glue on parchment paper. The glue doesn't stick to that paper. I need 24 steps, but I made 30 in case I'm not happy with their standardization.

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Posted

Now I'm mass finishing the steps. I need my eye magnifiers to help. The blond wood has a taper while the dark wood has square ends. It's all very tiny. I made marks on my bench to use as a gauge to standardize all steps. The finished steps go in the blue bowl.

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Posted

Rich, I did basically the same as dgbot and augie, with the addition of a mortise chopped into the hull. Most people recommended to use a couple of brass pin like you did on your channels. I questioned my ability to get all those holes drilled accurately enough to keep everything lined up and even. The mortise and tenon gave me strength and the ability to screw things up slowly rather that quickly.

Watching your build I am confident whatever method you choose you'll do just fine.

Sam

Current Build Constructo Enterprise

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