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USS Constitution by Hipexec - FINISHED - Constructo - 1:82


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Glad to see you're staying 2 steps ahead of the game Rich.  Can literally save your life sometimes.

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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Rich, be aware that there are differing versions of the constitution's configurations through the years.  I don't know what the configuration of the Constructo kit is, but the model shipways kit is based on how she sits today, which was mostly done in her 1927 rebuild.  The Anchor port/gunport you refer to is an anchor port on her current version, and is also how the MS kit is configured.  This was a gunport (but in a slightly different location) in her 1812' era configuration.  I went back and changed the anchor ports on my model to gunports as I'm trying to build to 1812 as much as I can.

 

Sounds like your plans my have conflicting configurations.  The best thing you can do is exactly what you're doing, verify everything on the plans before you commit to them!  You may want to pick up some reference books depending on how particular you are about any certain configuration.  I bought the Constitution Anatomy of The Ship book and it is full of images, and some text, (it's not text heavy) that will help you understand the differences.  There are other books out there as well and lots of images on the net.  Look for pics of the Hull model, she was built by the crew for Captain Hull in her 1812 configuration.  If you're not stuck on historical accuracy, just go with what makes you happy, that's all that counts anyway!!

 

Good luck!

Wes Cook

 

Current Build: USF Constitution (Model Shipways)

USF Essex (Scratch build)

MS Syren (build log lost, need to rebuild)

 

Future Builds: MS Confederacy

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My model is the 1797 version acccording to the title on the box. I will review old photos and even oil paintings to see what I'm supposed to do. Thanks for your comments.

Rich

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I've stopped top-down planking and started bottom-up planking. I've gone as far as I can with whole width planks (9 on each side) as I headed down. Now, I'm starting up with whole width planks as far as I can go (probably 3 to 4). Then the hard part of tapering planks to fit in the limited space left. I filled in the bow section so I can have more glueing surface for those tricky bends, twists and curves that are ahead of me. 

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I'm working on the bottom up planks and I'm amazed that I can make them twist 90 degrees with just 15 minutes soaking and forming them in position until dry, then glueing them. This very hard wood doesn't want to bend on the flat, but twists like a pretzel longitudonely (sic).

 

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It's getting there. I will slow down when I have to start plank tapers. The height varies from 9 planks to 12 planks to close in the hull.

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It seems with each new planking day, I have to invent a new method of clamping them. This is my latest find. From my hardware store's picture framing section. Small, plastic flip clamps. They work very well on this section of the hull. They hold them nice and tight and I don't have to nail as many planks as before.

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The planking process has proved suddenly very interesting. When I was planking down, these Sapele planks gave me a fit by cracking with the slightest miscalculation. Now, suddenly I'm able to twist these same Sapele planks almost 90 degrees at the stem and almost 90 degrees at the stern with no splitting? I'm not complaining, though, and I'm suddenly ahead of schedule. I know during the middle section I will be slowed again since I have to eliminate planks by some form of tapering.

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Hi Rich, I'm not familiar with Sapele, but could it be the orientation of the grain?

Also, I think I've read in a few logs that when planks in some kits get old they dry out.  I wonder if soaking the entire plank, then letting it air dry (don't bend it) might help?  Maybe that would restore some pliability to the planks.  Might be worth a test...

 

And your Conny is looking good!

Wes Cook

 

Current Build: USF Constitution (Model Shipways)

USF Essex (Scratch build)

MS Syren (build log lost, need to rebuild)

 

Future Builds: MS Confederacy

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  • 2 weeks later...

The picture framing gadgets I found in the local hardware store are working very well as clamps for my planking effort. I just nail them in place to hold the next plank while it's soaking, then flip them in place after I lay the wet pank. Them I nail them tight. The bow and stern planks need some small nails and/or rubber bands to hold them in place. After the plank dries (24 hours in Phoenix), I'll loosen the clamps and run my glue bead, them re-nail the clamps tight. The next day I remove the clamps and...another installed plank.   

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I don't know how others taper their planks, but here's what I'm doing. I calculate how many planks are needed to fill the midship (widest gap) and measue the space at the bow. In this case 5 planks are needed midships and only three at the bow. I do the math and strike a line on the plank representing the taper needed to make 5 fit into 3 neatly. I carefully carve close the my strike line with a sharp razor, then sand down to the line wth medium grade sanding block. I only taper or carve one edge and leave the un-carved/un-tapered edge to face away from the glued edge. This gives me a very straight edge to work my next plank.

 

Constructo calls for me to taper the planks at the bow and use filler wedges at the stern since it has a six plank gap.

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Edited by Hipexec
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Hi Rich,

 

The things you are using is called I believe a cable shoe.

We use them to nail a cable on the wall or at the floor.

You find a nice other way to use them.

Like the idea !

 

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It works real well except I have to keep glueing bulkheads when they get  slight splits from all the nails. The glued bulkhead works okay for the next course of planks, though.    Like they say...whatever works is good. I should have the main hull closed in by Christmas.

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With only 10 planks left to cover the whole open hull ( 5 port and 5 starboard) I've managed to do it all using whole planks from stem to stern. It makes for a nice smooth looking hull even before any sanding. It even looks like I'll have to use a minimum of filler since most planks butt against each other very well. I've been saving sanding dust from my plank tapering to mix with white glue for any filler I might need.

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Now that I'm approaching the last plank, I've prepared some sanding blocks of different sizes. The big one is just a block you can get at Home Depot. I use that to taper planks, etc. The three sanding sticks are fine, med and course for smaller areas ,and the 3 inch by 1 inch block will be for the main part of the hull. It has medium on one side and fine on the other.

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Ever since I started tapering my planks, I stopped using a jig to bend them to shape. Too many odd twists and turns. So, I started forming them in place. After a 15 minute soak I "no glue" install the plank and let it dry overnight. After it's dry, it stays just about in that shape for final gluing. 

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Starboard side planks done! Not as nice as Wes's Connie, but for a second ship beginner, I'm very proud that the planks fit so nicely even before sanding and filling..

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Very nice Rich, looking good!  All that time spent soaking and bending planks has paid off!  

 

Your ahead of me now...  I still gotta finish planking my hull.

Wes Cook

 

Current Build: USF Constitution (Model Shipways)

USF Essex (Scratch build)

MS Syren (build log lost, need to rebuild)

 

Future Builds: MS Confederacy

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I just layed the last plank...if you can call  it a plank. It was 4MM by 15CM tapered to sharp points at each end. Pics tomorrow when the glue dries.

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Hull planks finished! The stern came out very symetrical even though I carved it myself. A miracle! The stern gets a vereen plank job down the road. It feels good to finish planking. It's hard work. Now there will be a lot of sanding, filing and filling to make it presentable. At least the planks all butt very nicely, so filling will be a small job.

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That looks great  Rich !

Something to be proud of !!!!!!!!

And she has her own bed  :D  :D  :D

You are giving her a varnish or a stain coat ?

 

 

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Well done Rich.  Take a break to stand back and admire!

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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While I'm taking my victory lap, I'm planning my next moves. I've got to fit the bow and stern stems over the planks and sand and fill. Them I have to figure out how to start the gunwales with only a 2mm lip as a start that has lots of curves and bends? After building the stern cabin and veneer planking the stern, then I'll varnish her.

Thanks,

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What a joy it is to hold that completed hull. It's like I can't get enough of holding it. It looks like a boat now. Am I the only one who feels this way?

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With any luck you'll feel the same 'rush' with the completion of each major step.  ENJOY!

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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I've begun the tedious job of sanding, shaping and filling the hull. I've fitted the bow stem to be mounted later, I fitted the keel to be mounted later and the rudder post. That too will be mounted later. I'll probably have a month of filling, filing and sanding to get the hull as smooth as I want it to look. I shall not be painting this model since I want the wood work to be part of the charm. The few spots I've done look very good.

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