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I was wondering if anyone uses hide glue or Old Brown Glue and what their opinion is of it.  I did do a forum search on the topic and found a couple of older discussions but nothing current.

 

I see that it is a reversible glue in the sense that parts can be unglued using heat and water.  I thought that might be a benefit to someone like me who tends to do a lot of rework.

 

I know there is a downside to hide glue, whereby it has to be heated.  Apparently, and correct me if I’m wrong, Old Brown Glue is basically a hide glue that doesn’t need to be preheated.  I also read that hide glue tends to shrink when drying effectively pulling the parts together tighter.

 

Just wondering if this might be something worth considering.

Derek

If you want to build a ship, don't drum up the men to gather wood, divide the work and give orders. Instead, teach them to yearn for the vast and endless sea  

Antoine de Saint Exupery

 

Current Builds

Bluenose - Model Shipways - 1:64 Scale

Fair American - Model Shipways - 1:48 Scale

HMS Winchelsea 1764 - Group Build

On Deck

Guns of History Naval Smoothbore Deck Gun - 1:24 Scale

Finished Builds

Mare Nostrum - Artesania Latina - 1:35 Scale

Guns of History Carronade - Model Shipways - 1:24 Scale

 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

 

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I am just speculating, but  Old Brown and Franklin hide glues are convenient because they are used at room temp.  The downside is that the water concentration has to be high enough to produce unwanted side effects in the wood being glued.   If you are serious, you might oughta pay the price of the hassle of a glue pot.   The water concentration is just enough to get a fluid - if you do it correctly.

I break my rules this one time and use a man made synthetic -PVA  - because a hot pot is too much extra work.

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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3 hours ago, Jaager said:

I am just speculating, but  Old Brown and Franklin hide glues are convenient because they are used at room temp.  The downside is that the water concentration has to be high enough to produce unwanted side effects in the wood being glued.   If you are serious, you might oughta pay the price of the hassle of a glue pot.   The water concentration is just enough to get a fluid - if you do it correctly.

I break my rules this one time and use a man made synthetic -PVA  - because a hot pot is too much extra work.

One of these smaller sized "crock pots" ("slow cookers") would serve for keeping hide glue heated, wouldn't it? No need to spring for a Lee Valley or Garret Wade $150 model, right?   0.65 qt slow cooker warmer, fondue pot set,chocolate melting pot (amazon.com) 

 

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8 hours ago, Worldway said:

I was wondering if anyone uses hide glue or Old Brown Glue

 

8 hours ago, Worldway said:

 

I see that it is a reversible glue in the sense that parts can be unglued using heat and water

Do you have a particular project or task in mind?

Titebond makes a room-temperature hide glue that makes life simple, you may have trouble finding it but try luthier suppliers such as Timberline hereintheUK. If the reversible quality is what you are after perhaps home-made rice glue is the answer. There is a thread somewhere discussing it.

HTH 

Bruce 

🌻

STAY SAFE

 

A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin

current builds:

HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style

Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild 

French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold

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  I only used hide glue for veneering.  I mixed my own from granular hide glue (indefinite shelf life), and it does have to be heated.  Old -time wood workers used it for furniture joints, typically tongue and groove - as well as veneering.  It may not be practical for modeling use - just as the old-time bookbinders' flour & water paste has been superseded by water soluble PVA. 

Completed builds:  Khufu Solar Barge - 1:72 Woody Joe

Current project(s): Gorch Fock restoration 1:100, Billing Wasa (bust) - 1:100 Billings, Great Harry (bust) 1:88 ex. Sergal 1:65

 

 

 

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Titebond glues are also heat-reversible. I coat both the veneer and substrate with this, allow it to dry, then heat-bond the layers using an iron. A lot simpler than the alchemy of glue pots - and the odour!

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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