3D Printing Cannons in Resin

[thibaultron]

Commonwealth 18 Pounder 108

 

Commonwealth Pattern 18 Pounder 108 Charles II Cypher Full Size_2959_63mm.stl

 

Commonwealth Pattern 18 Pounder 108 No Cypher Full Size_2959_63mm.stl

 

 

Commonwealth 18 Pounder 114

 

Commonwealth Pattern 18 Pounder 114 Charles II Cypher Full Size_3124_46mm.stl

 

Commonwealth Pattern 18 Pounder 114 No Cypher Full Size_3124_46mm.stl

 

 

[thibaultron]

Commonwealth 24 Pounder 102

 

Commonwealth Pattern 24 Pounder 102 Charles II Cypher Full Size_2798_76mm.stl

 

Commonwealth Pattern 24 Pounder 102 No Cypher Full Size_2798_76mm.stl

 

 

Commonwealth 24 Pounder 108

 

 

Commonwealth Pattern 24 Pounder 108 Charles II Cypher Full Size_2960_16mm.stl

 

Commonwealth Pattern 24 Pounder 108 No Cypher Full Size_2960_16mm.stl

 

 

Commonwealth 24 Pounder 114

 

Commonwealth Pattern 24 Pounder 114 Charles II Cypher Full Size_3124._60mm.stl

 

Commonwealth Pattern 24 Pounder 114 No Cypher Full Size_3124_60mm.stl

 

 

[thibaultron]

Commonwealth 32 Pounder 108

 

Commonwealth Pattern 32 Pounder 108 Charles II Cypher Full Size_2959_89mm.stl

 

Commonwealth Pattern 32 Pounder 108 No Cypher Full Size_2959_89mm.stl

 

 

Commonwealth 32 Pounder 114

 

Commonwealth Pattern 32 Pounder 114 Charles II Cypher Full Size_3124_20mm.stl

 

Commonwealth Pattern 32 Pounder 114 No Cypher Full Size_3124_20mm.stl

 

 

[thibaultron]

I will shortly be adding the guns for HMS Tiger circa 1680. I have to finish creating the graphics.

[thibaultron]

I forgot that I have already posted the HMS Tyger cannon files.

 

Both the Commonwealth and HMS Tyger files have been sent to the NRG, and should be in the Resource section in a little while.

[thibaultron]

The new files are now in the NRG resources section.

[Thukydides]

These files are a fantastic resource. Very kind of you to make them available for everyone.

[thibaultron]

One more set of files. Several months ago I posted a file for a 9 Pounder Carronade with trunnions. Here is a file for the associated carriage that was on the drawing. This file has the carriage body as one piece with the shelf, quoin, and trucks (wheels with the locking band as separate parts. In a few days I will be posting a set of files with all the parts as separate pieces. You have to make the eyelets and rings yourself, as well as add a piece of wire for the cross brace bolt.

 

Here is a picture of the Carranade barrel and the file for it. The trunnions have been drawn over long, and should be trimmed to length, during the fitting to the carriage.

 

Cannonade 9 Pounder with Extended Trunnions Full Size_1174_62mm.stl

 

Here are the general arraignment graphics for the assembled carriage, with the various rings and eyelets labeled.

 

 

 

Here is a dimensioned drawing of the rings and eyelets. Note: the "B" eyelet is now a part of the caps, and do not have to be formed. You will have to put in a wire between the two holes on the inside of the carriage sides, for the cross brace. This rod also supports one end of the shelf. This rod is shown in the bottom view graphic (above).

 

 

This is the drawing of the carriage parts.

 

 

 

This is the file.

 

9 Pounder Carronade Single Piece Carriage_Full Size_1235_87mm.stl

 

 

Edited October 27 by thibaultron

[thibaultron]

Here are the files for the 9 Pounder Carronade with trunions carriage for the individual parts. They need the same fabricated parts as in the previous post. Install the eyelet with the ring onto the cheek, before building the carriage, otherwise you could break the assembled cheek. Holes for the rest of the eyelets should be drilled for depth, and or diameter after the carriage parts are built. Install the eyelets before adding the trucks and hoops.

 

The transom is installed with its lower back edge even with the upper back edge of the front axletree, and the "nose" overhanging the axletree at the front.

 

Cheek A

 

Cheek B

 

 

Front axletree hoop (holds the truck/wheel on). 

 

 

Front Axletree. The hole for the horizontal eyelet goes toward the front.

 

 

Front truck/wheel

 

 

Quion

 

 

Rear Axletree Hoop

 

 

Rear Axletree. The hole for the horizontal eyelet goes toward the rear.

 

 

 

Shelf stool, the semicircular grove fits over the cross brace bolt shaft.

 

 

Transom. Angles backward.

 

 

 

Cap-Squares They are mirror images of each other, and only fit in place over the trunions correctly on their respective sides. They should run lengthwise, even with the top of the cheeks with the cannon mounted.

 

 

STL files (Zipped)

 

STL Files.zip

 

 

 

 

 

[thibaultron]

Here is a drawing, better showing the positioning of the transom on the axletree.

 

[Kevin-the-lubber]

Just something on the health and safety front. When resin printing barrels (or any tube) with a closed end, you need to take care that there isn't wet, uncured resin still in the barrel of the finished part. The smaller the barrel, the more likely it is that there'll be uncured resin deep inside and it's surprising how short the tube can be with this still occurring. Closed tubes act as a suction cup and hang on to wet resin on the print lift stroke.

I design & print gun barrels as a two part assembly i.e. an open tube barrel with a separate breech. I also make the tube wall fairly thin, to maximise the opportunity for resin to drain. The flare helps - I print with the muzzle facing the plate, using short supports to keep the aperture clear of the plate.

 

[thibaultron]

I run piece of wire or wood into the bore and touch hole to get any resin out, and print with the muzzles pointing away from the plate to encourage the resin to drip out. Holding the barrel in a pool of cleaner while cleaning the bore helps. I let the cannons dry over night, after final cleaning, before curing them. This allows any moisture in the barrel to dry, and not have liquid run out and mar the exterior surface.

 

For larger scales I have an UV LED that run into the barrel, to insure the bore is cured.

 

I think I detailed these steps earlier in this thread.