My laser cut planks

[modeller_masa]

I bought the NRG thin strip saw jig for cutting planks, but I found that my table saw isn't compatible with it, unfortunately. This is my alternative method to cutting accurate thickness, which is important for deck planking.

 

First, I cut my asian peer woods. Today's weather is clear with a little smog. I'm so scared of my table saw, so I don't measure the thickness accurately now. 

 

The plank size is 600 x 35 mm, or 2 feet x 1 1/3 inch. Thickness is vary.

 

The next is Byrnes thickness sander. It punches material and makes a loud noise, but works pretty well. I made all the sheets 1.00mm thick. 

 

I own a $500 fiber laser cutter. Cheaper laser cutters that use a blu-ray drive diode are much inferior to fiber laser.

 

I designed a very simple g-code that cut 135mm x 4.20mm thick planks.

 

 

Final result. The size is 134.80 mm x 4.02 mm, and the gap between planks is about 0.40mm, which is thinner than half the thickness of a table saw blade. Also, it is much safer. The burning marks at the sides may be a good expression of deck caulking.

 

I put my large Proxxon table saw in a warehouse. 😎

Edited April 16, 2023 by modeller_masa

[Gregory]

Which model fiber laser are you using?  I have not seen that configuration at a $500 price point..

 

Your image looks like a typical blue diode laser.

 

This should catch on as more people start using the laser. 

I use maple veneer, and have also explored making treenail marks.

Also good for shaped margin an nibbed/jogged planks.

 

You are right on about it taking care of the caulking simulation.

Edited April 16, 2023 by Gregory

[modeller_masa]

Here is link to my device. As I said, cutting width is about 0.40mm and depth is 6mm in the case of cherry wood.

+++

I researched a little bit, and found that a fiber laser is much bigger and more expensive. I guess the Chinese manufacture lied about the specs. It is curious that a real fiber laser cutter has less than 0.20mm kerfs.

 

 

The treenail marks are amazing. I didn't learn to draw spots yet. Probably very small circles would work in the same way.

Edited April 16, 2023 by modeller_masa

[Gregory]

Yes, the treenail effect is just maybe 4 pixels  in a 600dpi drawing.

 

Just so aspiring laser users don't get confused, the fiber lasers are a different technology than the blue diodes.

The cheapest ones are about $1200 and only have a 70mm square work area.

 

Fiber Lasers at Amazon

 

The diode lasers are much better than they were a few years ago.  I have seen 40w units available.

 

The basic ones have one diode that has about 5w of power.  The  10, 20 and 40w models use multiple diodes focused into a single beam.

 

 

Edited April 16, 2023 by Gregory

[PeteB]

Hi Gregory - which 20W /40W Blue diode laser would you recommend looking at having regard to our modelling needs? Cheers Pete

On 4/17/2023 at 2:52 AM, Gregory said:

Yes, the treenail effect is just maybe 4 pixels  in a 600dpi drawing.

 

Just so aspiring laser users don't get confused, the fiber lasers are a different technology than the blue diodes.

The cheapest ones are about $1200 and only have a 70mm square work area.

 

Fiber Lasers at Amazon

 

The diode lasers are much better than they were a few years ago.  I have seen 40w units available.

 

The basic ones have one diode that has about 5w of power.  The  10, 20 and 40w models use multiple diodes focused into a single beam.

 

 

 

[modeller_masa]

I'm using a double-stacked 10W laser, and it almost cuts 6mm or 1/4 inch cherry veneer sheet in one pass. The 20W quad-stacked laser should be better at cutting any model-scale wood in one pass. The 20W output quad-stacked system consume 120W of electricity.

 

My system cost about $500–700. the 20W system starts at $900 (3x3 feet work area), and the full set will be over $1,200.

[Gregory]

2 hours ago, PeteB said:

Hi Gregory - which 20W /40W Blue diode laser would you recommend looking at having regard to our modelling needs? Cheers Pete

 

I'll get back to you later.   Just saw this and will get back to you with particulars.    I  know it is Xtool brand.  I really like Xtool compared to some of the cheaper brands..

[CDR_Ret]

You guys should work up a tutorial for developing laser patterns for things like cabin and roof planking, skylights, and other fine details.

 

You might even start a small business of doing bespoke laser cutting jobs to pay for your hobby!

 

Terry

[Gregory]

Update:

I originally tried one of the Atomstack brand 10w machines looking to save quite a bit. but really wasn't happy with the build quality or the performance.

However, if you want to stay in a lower price range it shood be adequate.

I was able to return it and I bought the Xtool 10w machine, which I upgraded to 20w and have been using for over a year now.

The working area is 432 X 406mm but I believe there are bed extensions available.

modeller_masa may be able to tell you more about a larger work area.

 

 

Getting a 40w machine will put you in the $2,000 range, but if that is in your budget, I can only recommend the Xtool brand because I haven't had any experience with other brands.

 

I also recommend you get a Honeycomb worktable and the air-assist feature.

Some type of exhaust system is also a must have regardless of the laser power.

 

I also highly recommend Lightburn software to drive the laser.  It provides a very powerful and versatile interface.

 

If I can answer any more questions, I will do my best.

 

 

 

 

 

[modeller_masa]

Gregory, your first machine looks like a premium version of mine. After careful adjustment, I had no significant issues with my machine.

 

The Xtool has a smaller extension kit (2x1 < 2x2), but the machine seems much more enhanced and sturdy for its $300 higher price.

 

I want to upgrade to Xtool D1 Pro 20W for two reasons. (1) Lack of power. It is embarrassing when a 4mm thick hardwood sheet isn't cut enough. 20W would be sweet spot. (2) Too big dust chamber. If you use the 10W machine, basically you are making a bonfire in your room! The smoke is very toxic, so forced exhaust and full-cover enclosure are mandatory. It is a reason you need a huge space for the high performance laser machines.

 

Also, don't miss any accessories. They are not options. Without the honeycomb plate and mini air compressor, the laser machine will be broken in minutes.

 

I run CAM files(*.nc) with LaserGRBL-open source software, and make the CAM files with the Inkscape-open source software. The UI of the software is poor, but it is free.

[Gregory]

 

Have you checked out LightBurn!

They have an unrestricted 30 day trial.

One of the powerful tools is a bitmap trace that I found a lot easier and more powerful than Inkscape.

Greatest of all is you can have many layers.   Each with it's own power and speed setting. You can control the order the layers will cut or engrave, or you can choose a layer to not cut at all.

When I first started using it, it was like I had a new, more powerful laser.

Edited August 10, 2023 by Gregory

[Gregory]

22 hours ago, CDR_Ret said:

You guys should work up a tutorial for developing laser patterns for things like cabin and roof planking, skylights, and other fine details.

 

You might even start a small business of doing bespoke laser cutting jobs to pay for your hobby!

 

Terry

Terry,

My tutorials would be more of a " what not to do " when developing laser patterns..    My experience has been real hit and miss before there was much expertise available.

 

I enjoy making the stuff I do, and my tools and workflow have improved, but I don't want to compete with the pros. The logistics are a bit challenging, and it needs to remain fun for me.

 

I am always open to helping a fellow MSW member with a 1-off project if my skills and their needs can find a common ground.

Gregory