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Posted

I have begun to work on this kit.   As per my usual process, I have two kits going.    My primary kit will be the Vanguard Grecian, but while waiting for glues to set, and for a change of pace, I will work on this kit.   I will build this kit pretty much out of the box with few modifications.     Although I will opt to use other manufacturer's deadeyes, single blocks and belaying pins.     In this kit the deadeyes and single blocks are laser cut on the plywood sheets and would require drilling holes and painting.   The belaying pins would have to be fashioned from wood stock.  

 

As to contents of the kit I would refer people to the YouTube videos which give a very good description of what is inside the kit.     As you can see from the pictures I have placed by SurfacePro computer at my work station as all the instructions are on a disc.    The only paper in the kit are the porthole templates and a guide to the plywood sheets showing where each piece is.    As I have reviewed all the instructions I believe there might be some issues  with not having physical instructions or plans but we will see.

 

The bulkheads, for the most part, consist of 3 pieces.     So far the fit of these pieces has been excellent.      Quality of the wood has also been excellent. 

 

  

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Posted

The first few bulkheads have been aligned and glued in place.    As you can see the keel is made of several pieces so it will be extremely important to align everything correctly.    I don't used a "building board" as there would be no way to fit the keel as the bulkheads fit flush with the bottom of the keel.   Also pictured is a typical screenshot of the instructions. 

 

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Posted

Work progresses.     The additional inner structure parts provide a very stable and rigid  frame.     With this kit rather than the filler blocks for the bow, AL uses multiple bulkheads to form the curve at the bow.     At this point the instructions, quality of the material, and fit of the pieces has been excellent.    

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Posted

To date I am loving the excellent fit of all the pieces.   I have only had to slightly file one slot.    All the internal bracing adds a lot of rigidity to the hull.   This is a minor point but for me it's nice that the "frames" are not bulkheads like so many kits.   Next steps appear to be to starting the addition of a few decks which will further solidify the hull.    Some of my first kits were by Artensania and I then moved on to better kits.    I must say this newer Artesania kit is so totally different from those early ones.     Vastly superior and on a par with the best kits available now.

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Posted

The basic framework if completed now.     The whole structure is very rigid.    Next a bit sanding to remove the char and a bit of fairing the hull for the planking which will be the next step.

The fit of all the pieces has been exceptional.    Hardly any filing was needed.    The instructions to date have been excellent.   At this point one complaint with the instructions.   The instructions use icons to guide what needs to be done at each step.    The icon for NOT GLUING is very hard to distinguish it from the one for GLUING.     Missed that at one step but it did not cause any problem.

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Posted

I have started the first planking of the ship.    This will be a bit different from most kits as the planks for this first layer are only 300mm long.     The longest dimension on this model will require just under 3 planks.    Frankly, I kind of like this process a bit better than having one long plank.    The only issue is that I have to be very careful to keep the planks aligned.    I am using a medium viscosity cyano glue on the frames  and  edge gluing of the planks with a regular wood glue.    This now brings me to an issue where I have had to deviate from the instructions a bit.  

The instructions state to measure down 50mm from the tips of the midship frames and apply the first plank.    No problem there.   But the forward first plank when applied is pictured as being flush with the top of the forward deck area.     After verifying that I was accurate with the 50mm measurement it turns out the that forward plank in order to be aligned correctly with that first plank will not be flush with the forward deck area.   (see pictures)   I don't see this as a problem as I can just add the appropriate planks and trim.      I just wonder how AL was able to get the set up as they picture in the instructions. 

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Posted

The 1st third of the initial planking is completed now with some rough sanding done.   To my eye, it's looking really nice.     According to the instructions I should be able to get 9 or 10 full width planks to go around the bow before I have to start tapering.    After the first planking the instructions state to start adding the deck grating even before the second planking is done.   Not sure I will do that at that time.     So far, the quality of this kit is right up there with the best.     I do not look forward to having to cut out all the gun ports.    This first planking is a fairly hard wood.    Looks like I need to buy another 100 knife blades. 

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Posted

The attached photo shows a VERY rough first planking of one side of the model.   There has been minimal sanding at this point with a much more complete sanding to follow.   It's a slow process even using superglues.    There are a LOT of planks to install.     While going over the many, excellent build logs I see lots of people struggling with the laying out of the first planking with many attempting several bands of planks and doing all kinds of measuring.     I know there are many methods to planking but I see that AL in their illustrated instructions does their planking without all the calculations and positioning others attempt.   The instructions just state to work your way down and once the curve of the hull becomes excessive you go down to the keel and work up.   The last plank requires a fair amount of shaping but it works.      It's possible that AL does it this way since the whole model will be painted and there is no need to show planking details. 

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Posted

Looks like I have about a week of getting the first planking completed.     As I review the instructions I think I need to deviate  some from them.    After the first planking they show a few deck pieces and railings installed but once I start the second planking I am sure I would be knocking those off a number of times.   So I will avoid adding any deck structures until all the planking is completed.  

The instructions also show a lot of the second planking being added and THEN you take the template for the gunports and cut those out.     I am going to finish the 1st planking and THEN I will cut out the gunports before any second planks are added.    It seems to me that I can correct any minor issues with the ports with the second planking.    Plus I won't have to cut through two layers of planks.

Also prior to the second planking I will add the stem and keel pieces and then do the second planking.   That will allow a snug fit of the planks against those structures.    The instructions state to add those pieces after the second planking is completed. 

Once I get the first planking completed and sanded and smoothed down I will add some pictures. 

Posted

The first planking has been completed, filled and sanded.    As stated above I am now going to deviate from the plans and place the gunports by using the template and carefully drillilng/cutting out the openings.    Upon further reflection before adding the second layer of planking I will need to finish off the forward bulkhead.    After that is completed I will add the stem, keel and sternpost before starting the second planking.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I've spent the last week opening up all the gunports.   I am so glad I opted to do this now rather than after the 2nd layer of planks had been applied.   Given all the sanding that I did before this step some of the planks were quite thin and did splinter upon cutting open the port.     Now I will be able to correct this when I apply the second layer.   My next step is to do the second planking on the forward part of the hull and the stern.    Then on to the overall second planking taking special care to get the gun ports correct.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I have the port side finished with the second planking and a light initial sanding.     You have to be careful with the sanding as that second layer is soft wood and only 0.5mm thick.    But it definitely gives the whole hull a nice smooth veneer.    As you can see the port hole defects have been corrected with some more correction coming when the port hole lining is installed.     As you can see it worked well to add the stem and keel pieces before this second planking as it allowed a nice tight fit of the planking.  

Now it's on to the starboard side which will probably take me another 2-3 weeks. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

2nd planking is now completed and the upper railings are glued in place.   Next step will be some more fine sanding.   I am now starting to go back in the instructions and complete a few steps that I skipped.    I still strongly disagree with AL's order of instructions but it's not hard to mix things up as long as you think ahead to future steps and what can and cannot be changed.

 

I also really like the AL "scraping" tool that you can use to make all kinds of different mouldings as illustrated in the last picture.     That moulded piece will be on the front of the ship. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I decided to deviate from the instructions again.    For the place I am at now, the instructions state to add all the wales and then do the painting.    As there are a several rows of wales, for me, it would be easier to paint the wales first and then apply them to the hull.    At 72 years old, my hands are not as steady as they once were.    Once I am satisfied with the base hull paint, I will add the wales and other outer strips of wood.    I now have to decide if I like that deeper blue.    The instructions call for Prussian blue which I did use here.    But my thinking is that a royal blue would be more pleasing to the eye.    I'll think about that for the next week or so before deciding which way to go.

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Posted

Definitely will be using Royal Blue.    Royal Blue appears to be much closer to the box pictures.   Not sure if you can make out the difference in these pictures but royal blue is much more "blue".       There is now going to be a LOT of painting at this stage.      Lots of wales require paint before applying plus I I have the whole port side to do.      At least two coats are needed to get it to the point I want.

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Posted

3 wales have been applied to one side of the ship.    Here is where the lack of actual plan sheets is a huge negative.     The middle wale is the first installed.    The only way to determine its position for the whole length is to closely look at the pictures and approximate the location relative to the gun ports.     If I had a plan sheet I could measure of the plan.   In this case I hope I estimated the location accurately as the other wales are measured from this middle wale.     Overall, I think I should be pretty close as the location of the upper and lower wale appear to be equivalent to what is pictured on the box and in the instructions. 

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Posted

To scale plans are really helpful but I can understand why they don't include them in some cases.

Jeff

 

In progress:
Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Company -1/2" scale

USS Constitution - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76

HMS Granado - CAF Model - 1:48

HMS Sphinx - Vanguard

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Looking great. The digital ones are a nightmare, can't beat a good old set of plans. I can't remember if I got them when I built it. I built the official build of the Soleil Royal on the Modelspace site. 

Edited by magpie1832

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