USS Constitution by SUBaron - Model Shipways (MS2040) - 1:76

[SUBaron]

I’m very surprised at how much shaping the stern filler blocks needed. I followed the advice of several of you - and after utilizing my rasp and all of my block sanders, I finally shaped the blocks to the templates. My prior issue with the templates was because my initial blocks were so far off shape that it seemed I was utilizing the templates incorrectly. I think I sanded off 1/4 to 1/3 of the original cut shape. I glued the blocks with wood glue (I’ll add the final stern block pics after they dry)

Edited February 14 by SUBaron
Pic added

[JSGerson]

I can't tell you how many times I shaped and refined those filler blocks, and shaped and refined, etc., till I thought I was done. I think I didn't I stop until I had planked the hull! Well done BTY.

 

Jon

[SUBaron]

2 hours ago, JSGerson said:

I can't tell you how many times I shaped and refined those filler blocks, and shaped and refined, etc., till I thought I was done. I think I didn't I stop until I had planked the hull! Well done BTY.

 

Jon

Thanks Jon - The irony is that by the time I finished refining with 400 grit sandpaper - they looked beautiful! Yet they won’t be seen again after planking 🤷‍♂️ I did end up scuffing them with 80 grit for better plank purchase. 
 

I’m off to an inauspicious start on the bow fillers. I made some bad measurements on Super Bowl Sunday and no longer have enough left of the block for two, 2 1/2 inch pieces 😂. 

[SUBaron]

Stern Filler Blocks - final considerations. Shape until a plank width gap exists between the block and the rabbet. The blocks should follow the shape of the Bearding Line. Shape to slightly less than bulwark R, leaving just a bit for final shaping when planking. If you over cut, you can add a shim, but I think it’s easier to spot sand when necessary. Be sure to dry fit the blocks prior to glueing. I clamped in place and placed a plank all around the block to the rabbet. I found a few small but impactful epoxy drips under the counter that were causing fitment issues and needed to be removed. Also, the shim I added to the counter had to be trimmed to fully extend the rabbet line. After viewing other builds, I slightly rounded the top outer edge of the blocks to allow for planks to be tapered and “tucked” under the counter. It still allows for a squared fit if preferred. I’ll decide what looks best when I get there.

Edited February 15 by SUBaron

[SUBaron]

Bow Filler Blocks

The forward/bow filler blocks are, so far, much easier than the stern blocks. The sheet plans contain 2 templates for the blocks - the bearding line shape and 4 levels of depth/profile templates. After struggling through my stern blocks with a coping saw, I bought a rudimentary miter saw setup and made short work of the 2 2 1/2” bow blocks. Once the blocks were less than 2 thick, I was able to use my scroll saw. Although a belt sander would probably have worked, I recommend the scroll saw. The following pics are the steps up to the finished rough cut. Due to the simple angles involved, it looks like a lot of trimming will be necessary, but to a much simpler form than the stern blocks. We shall see!

Edited February 17 by SUBaron

[Geoff Matson]

You got the stern filler blocks looking great. Now with the bow filler blocks, it should go a little faster by applying what your learned from the stern filler blocks. GREAT  progress so far.

 

Edited February 18 by Geoff Matson

[SUBaron]

6 hours ago, Geoff Matson said:

You got the stern filler blocks looking great. Now with the bow filler blocks, it should go a little faster by applying what your learned from the stern filler blocks. GREAT  progress so far.

 

Thanks Geoff - you’re right - these bow fillers are faster and easier! Appreciate the kind words :)

[SUBaron]

1 bow block @ about 98% complete. I’m going to move on to the port side block now. As Geoff M pointed out, the going is faster after learning from the stern fillers. I utilize my rasp more, and the templates much more, making frequent pencil marks to guide the shaping. A word of advice - do not attempt to get some quick work done before guests arrive but after bourbon has begun. The block hit my belt sander and flew clear across the garage. After the second time I decided to call it quits for the night 😂 

[SUBaron]

I decided to forego the heavy sanding and went with a cutting blade. It was much faster and pleasant. It’s not a skill I get to use much, so it was fun. I should’ve done all of them this way. A bit more shaping, especially to the bearding line, and the blocks will be complete. 

Edited February 19 by SUBaron
Pics

[Geoff Matson]

Looking good. It seems like when you think you have it right you can always find a little more to do. Your final test will come when you have your bulkheads all faired and then using a text plank to check how things fit. 

[SUBaron]

10 hours ago, Geoff Matson said:

Looking good. It seems like when you think you have it right you can always find a little more to do. Your final test will come when you have your bulkheads all faired and then using a text plank to check how things fit. 

Geoff - you are so right! I lost count at how many times I felt it was “good enough”, then came back for more. I did a cursory test with a bent plank and it’s close. I don’t want to cut anymore. I’d rather spot sand now then to try and reach perfection before I plank.  The prospect of fairing this ship is a little intimidating. I’m more anxious to plank than I am to rig - and this ship has 400yards of rigging!

Edited February 20 by SUBaron

[SUBaron]

The bow fillers are done - at least I’m done with them. They will require additional attention when fairing. I found myself really wanting to keep a nice rounded curve shape, but in reality, the proper shape is much much less of a pronounced curve than you may expect. I have to decide now whether to glue them on now as the practicum instructs. I’m leaning hard toward cutting the Knighthead support notches first. I have a feeling that those cuts will be harder than they look.

Edited February 20 by SUBaron
Pics

[Geoff Matson]

You are right about the rigging. That is where I am right now.  I seem to find any excuse to avoid rigging. I do not know why it is such a hurdle to get down to business. That is the one good thing about Model Ship World, it will motivate you get going.  You might want to check out other build logs when you start to do the planking. You might need to put in some spacer blocks or braces between the bulwarks to aid in your fairing. Things are looking great and keep up the good work.

[Der Alte Rentner]

On 2/18/2024 at 7:15 PM, SUBaron said:

A word of advice - do not attempt to get some quick work done before guests arrive but after bourbon has begun.

Aha!  That explains everything...  Lesson learned.  No more working on Conny on Manhattan Club nights.  

 

Impressive that you're accomplishing so much with a minimal set of tools.  Keep up the good work.    

[Der Alte Rentner]

21 hours ago, SUBaron said:

I have to decide now whether to glue them on now as the practicum instructs. I’m leaning hard toward cutting the Knighthead support notches first. I have a feeling that those cuts will be harder than they look.

Your instincts are spot on.  Look at post 13 of my build log for a technique that worked well for me,

 

I'm embarrassed to admit I couldn't figure out how to supply you a link.  Post 13 is about half way down on the first page of my build log here.  

[SUBaron]

16 hours ago, Der Alte Rentner said:

Your instincts are spot on.  Look at post 13 of my build log for a technique that worked well for me,

 

I'm embarrassed to admit I couldn't figure out how to supply you a link.  Post 13 is about half way down on the first page of my build log here.  

Thanks Peter - the pictures were helpful.

[SUBaron]

I cut the notches into the bow fillers. It was a good decision to cut the notches prior to the fillers being permanently attached. Oddly, it was both easier and harder than I thought it would be. The cutting was manageable but I needed about 10 different angles to get to complete the job - angles I couldn't have achieved if the fillers were attached. To cut the notches, I drew the outline, then used a small saw to cut the side lines, from front to back, also cutting material away between the two edge cuts. I then used a new #11 Exacto cutting blade, some fine (sharp!) wood cutting tools, and a set of micro chisels from Micromark. The block won't come out as a solid unit, so you need to pick away at it. My intent was to create a flat surface with 90 degree angled corners. The wood is far too fibrous for this, and it seems I was going against the grain. As happens with this hobby, after spending a long time picking away at the notches, I found that a pursuit of perfection was becoming the enemy of good (or good enough). 

 

With the notches completed, I could see no reason to keep from attaching the bow fillers. It's funny how it seems such a big decision, but after spending so much time shaping them, that's not surprising. I glued the fillers with Weld Bond. 

Edited February 21 by SUBaron
Pics

[Der Alte Rentner]

On 2/19/2024 at 7:54 PM, SUBaron said:

I lost count at how many times I felt it was “good enough”, then came back for more. I did a cursory test with a bent plank and it’s close. I don’t want to cut anymore. I’d rather spot sand now then to try and reach perfection before I plank.

 

Seeing as how I'm at that phase of my build, planking over the filler blocks, I can assure you that no matter how well you think you faired the blocks, and bulkheads A and R, you will be shaving and shaping with every plank that covers those areas.  Ditto for the bulkheads themselves.

Don't sweat in too much now.  Getting close will save time later.  If you are going to test fit planks now, prepare them as if you were going to affix them.  Good luck.

 

And again, I'm impressed with what you're doing with a small set of hand tools.  Since I redid one set of filler blocks three times, I'm glad to have had a band saw and spindle drum sander.  For what it's worth, once you get past the filler blocks, there won't be much need for fancy power tools.  

[SUBaron]

Thanks for that - I do think I’m spending more time than necessary fairing as I go. At this point I’m just eyeballing it a bit. I’m a bit caught up now with the Bow framework. I have achieved what looks like decent alignment with timbers 1-5. However the practicum says there should be 9/16” between timbers 3&5, and “exactly” 11/32 between 2&3. It will take some creative shaping. Since the 3-5 spacing forms the bridal port - I’m assuming it’s not the place to just be in the ballpark.

 

As for the tools… it’s amazing what you can accomplish with a Central Machinery Belt & Disk sander! But it’s tough to do the delicate work on there. The fillers took flight across the garage a few times.

[SUBaron]

After reviewing 4-5 build logs and the ship plans, I can’t see a plausible reason for the 9/16” precision measurement on the 3-5 timbers. At this point - close is good enough. I’ll deal with consequences later. That #4 timber sure is a skinny fellow. The spar deck framing fits flush with the timbers and provides a flush surface with a plank (metal ruler) over bulwarks A-D, and the timbers are reasonably well positioned for planking. Time to glue. I will sand smooth when dry. 

[SUBaron]

Added the stiffeners between timbers 1&2, and 4 & Bkd A. I had to square the edge of Blkd A slightly and shape both stiffeners. I will sand smooth when dry.

[Der Alte Rentner]

15 hours ago, SUBaron said:

After reviewing 4-5 build logs and the ship plans, I can’t see a plausible reason for the 9/16” precision measurement on the 3-5 timbers.

There's a spar deck port there, and if memory serves, these ports are all 9/16" wide.  For a spar deck opening, I too doubt that double decimal precision is necessary here.  But then again, I'm someone who built a spreadsheet with plank width dimensions down to 1/100 of a mm.    😉

[SUBaron]

27 minutes ago, Der Alte Rentner said:

There's a spar deck port there, and if memory serves, these ports are all 9/16" wide.  For a spar deck opening, I too doubt that double decimal precision is necessary here.  But then again, I'm someone who built a spreadsheet with plank width dimensions down to 1/100 of a mm.    😉

I was thinking that was a likely location for Hawesholes? If necessary I may just make it a closed hatch. I have to work on this between swim meets, practices, work and other life, so when I get bogged down for too long, I get impatient and have to move on. It is funny how much research I end up performing before I get to that point though. The starboard side bow framework was a bit of a headache - mainly because I spent a lot of time making the parts precise from the plans, but still, nothing lined up very well and a lot of fudging was to be had. Now that it's complete, the Port side is moving along smoothly. Lessons learned are getting put to good use 🙂 

 

I noticed your spreadsheet - that was some impressive detail. I'll likely do the same when I get there. I was thinking about getting some micro-calipers, or possibly the proportional divider (Micromark - #14129) for planking. Any suggestions on a must have instrument/tool for that future effort?

 

Cheers!

Andre 

[GGibson]

27 minutes ago, SUBaron said:

I was thinking about getting some micro-calipers, or possibly the proportional divider (Micromark - #14129) for planking. Any suggestions on a must have instrument/tool for that future effort?

 

Hi Andre... Great build so far, love following your progress.  I have a really nice digital micro-caliper that I use all the time.  I'm sure most of them are very similar, but mine can switch from millimeters to decimal inches to fractional inches with the press of a button.  The proportional divider you linked to MicroMark looks interesting, as well, though!  No such thing as "too many tools" in the shipyard!! <shrug> 🤣

[SUBaron]

On 3/1/2024 at 11:24 AM, GGibson said:

 

Hi Andre... Great build so far, love following your progress.  I have a really nice digital micro-caliper that I use all the time.  I'm sure most of them are very similar, but mine can switch from millimeters to decimal inches to fractional inches with the press of a button.  The proportional divider you linked to MicroMark looks interesting, as well, though!  No such thing as "too many tools" in the shipyard!! <shrug> 🤣

I believe I have that same micro caliper - but I’m also a staunch believer in “no such thing as too many tools”! :-) 

[SUBaron]

Rough Bow work completed. Will need sanding. I will eyeball it and detail the fairing later. I added slightly larger timbers (3/32”) for the port side top strengtheners, and added more between #3&5. 
 

Other build logs as well as pictures in the practicum show shaping for the bowsprit. A Proxxon tool and Kutzall Burr kit did the job.

 

I’m looking forward to the stern transom framework.

Edited March 3 by SUBaron

[SUBaron]

Bow framework complete. Sanding to acceptable visual tolerances. Final touches to be addressed during planking. Proxxon micro sander was very helpful. 
 

In to the Stern Transom framework.

 

Edited March 4 by SUBaron

[Der Alte Rentner]

On 3/1/2024 at 9:52 AM, SUBaron said:

I get impatient and have to move on. It is funny how much research I end up performing before I get to that point though. The starboard side bow framework was a bit of a headache - mainly because I spent a lot of time making the parts precise from the plans, but still, nothing lined up very well and a lot of fudging was to be had. Now that it's complete, the Port side is moving along smoothly. Lessons learned are getting put to good use 🙂 

 

I noticed your spreadsheet - that was some impressive detail. I'll likely do the same when I get there. I was thinking about getting some micro-calipers, or possibly the proportional divider (Micromark - #14129) for planking. Any suggestions on a must have instrument/tool for that future effort?

 

Cheers!

Andre 

 

Tell me about it.  I probably spend more time researching, thinking and prepping than actually working on Conny.  Take your sweet time and enjoy the hobby.  If you're getting stressed out, go swimming!  

 

The digital vernier caliper is a must have.  I did by the proportional dividers but have found I don't really use them.    But I'm a firm believer in, better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.  But I also have more cents than sense. 😉

[SUBaron]

3 hours ago, Der Alte Rentner said:

 

Tell me about it.  I probably spend more time researching, thinking and prepping than actually working on Conny.  Take your sweet time and enjoy the hobby.  If you're getting stressed out, go swimming!  

 

The digital vernier caliper is a must have.  I did by the proportional dividers but have found I don't really use them.    But I'm a firm believer in, better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.  But I also have more cents than sense. 😉

I go to swim practice with my daughter and about halfway through a set of 400’s, I’ll think about the Conny and come up with a plan to solve whatever sticking point I’m at (or remember that I forgot to do something). I thought I was done with the bow framework - then decided (influenced by some other projects, including yours) that it looked a little flimsy and was in need of some shoring timbers. I also noted that I forgot to add the final timber connecting the port and starboard #1 timbers. This also included some sanding to fit the bowsprit. Yet another Proxxon device helped with that. I like your philosophy toward tools. I already have the digital calipers, but may still get the proportional dividers. If even just because they look well designed and I’d like to know how to use them. 🙂

Edited March 6 by SUBaron

[SUBaron]

As mentioned- the beefed up Bow section with timbers added under the top rail supports - and the #1 timber connector over the top that also needed to be shaped to accept the bowsprit. 
 

As a wooden ship building novice - the bow section was a fairly intimidating build (thus, many pictures). For me, it was more challenging and fun than the bow and stern fillers. With sanding complete (for now), I can see areas that will need refinement and/or a shim to keep the planking fair. These areas are expected and are of little concern. The practicum states that additional bridal port framing will be addressed in the next Chapter (3). Most of the blogs have addressed that framing already. However- because my measurements ended up slightly off of the practicum’s recommended 9/16”, and the sheet plans make no mention of measurements here at all, I will wait to see what works when I get there. 
 

I’m looking forward to the stern transom!

Edited March 6 by SUBaron