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Posted

I had been eyeing this boat for some time. I finally bought a kit a few weeks ago. There are many great build logs, I don’t plan to bring anything new to the project, I’ve seen many outstanding examples of fantastic craftsmanship. It’s an honor to build such a wonderful kit. I hope I can build it in a way it deserves, I will certainly try. 
 

I’ve had it all out of the box 4 or 5 times, it smells so good. This time when I got it out I kept going. 


Thank you in advance to anyone following, liking, or commenting. I tend to not be chatty in my responses, but I’m grateful for comments, tips, and encouragement. 
 

I printed out the sections a while back and have been reading them and marking notes to remember to do certain things. In an effort to not muck it up. So far, so good. 
 

Pictures I take and post are milestones for me and the build. I try to show the progression of the work, so someday I can look back and see how bad I was at this lol. I have my moments of a perfect fit, then I have to paint, paint is not a strong suit, yet. 
 

Wake up, let’s get started….
 

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Posted

Char is relentless. It wants to stay in view. It looks like it’s gone but shows up when coated with WOP. Extra sanding here and there and it’s gone. My middle notched piece was shorter than the space, I left the gap, well as I look, in the middle, both sides have a small extra gap. I thought I tucked it forward. Guess not. 
 

So far so good. 
 

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Posted

Magnets and this metal board work great. That’s about 90 deg angle as I can get. Now I need to make sure not to accidentally rip it off the board. Now I need to slow down and read again. The sanded cedar makes the hobby room smell great! 
 

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Posted

Looking good.  I just finished my Medway in December. It was a very enjoyable build even with all its challenges.  Chucks instructions are excellent, as are all the build logs.  Lots of tips to be picked up in them.

Posted
12 hours ago, MajorChaos said:

I’ve had it all out of the box 4 or 5 times, it smells so good. This time when I got it out I kept going. 

 

 

 

 


First I’ve seen on a kit review, to comment on the smell.  I like it!  I thought maybe I was the only one to notice.

Rick

                        

Current Build: MS Mayflower II

Completed: MS USF EssexMS USS Constitution Cross SectionMS 18th Century Armed Longboat  

 

Posted

Hopping on board this log. 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Robert Chenoweth

 

Current Build: Maine Peapod; Midwest Models; 1/14 scale.

 

In the research department:

Nothing at this time.

 

Completed models (Links to galleries): 

Monitor and Merrimack; Metal Earth; 1:370 and 1:390 respectively.  (Link to Build Log.)

Shrimp Boat; Lindbergh; 1/60 scale (as commission for my brother - a tribute to a friend of his)

North Carolina Shad Boat; half hull lift; scratch built.  Scale: (I forgot).  Done at a class at the NC Maritime Museum.

Dinghy; Midwest Models; 1/12 scale

(Does LEGO Ship in a Bottle count?)

 

Posted

Almost ready to glue the frames to the keel. 
Not sure how to glue so much at the same time and keep it aligned. The Titebond Quick & Thick, is thick and quick. It’s almost CA but I don’t get my fingers stuck if I touch it. The frames slide side to side ever so slightly. 
 

I almost made an issue on frame 6, figured it out quick enough I got it unglued before it set. 
 

I’ll likely sit here and stare at it until it clicks what to do to get it aligned and glued. 
 

I’m also trying to decide if I should tape the 2 part frames. I see the cut difference on the one piece frames so the support piece might not be needed. 
 

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Posted

I did add the side support to all frames. I bought a bundle of random sticks a while back to have scrap to pick from. With the grain vertical the edges could snap easy. 
 

I’m going slow, I’ve been at it all day. I finally figured out I can glue 2 or 3 frames at a time, I had in my head to glue all 10 at the same time. 

 

So far everything feels and looks like it should. I used my old fairing stick to line up the frames. Once the glue sets it’s time to flip it and stabilized it for fairing. 
 

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Posted
20 hours ago, Ryland Craze said:

Nice start to your Medway.  I look forward to following your build.


Welcome! I’ve been peaking at your log from time to time  I hope your doing well. 

Posted

Thank you for the likes and follows of this build. 
 

I think the cedar is hard on tools and sand paper. The sand paper seams to dull quickly. I’ve not noticed this with other woods, at least the other common woods in Model Shipways kits and OcCre kits. I’ve been swapping paper often. Sanding sticks were useless after just a few passes they were loaded up and dulled. Wild. 
 

Side by side is the new red sanding block and the other block I’ve had for 30 years that has seen better days. It was used for other not intended purposes. The red one is stable make out of firm plastics, I think it shipped from the UK. It’s a great tool, it’s helped make many great sanding events. I don’t think I could do without it now. I’ve tried other methods and it just don’t. 

 

I’m doing my best to take my time. I’m in no rush, but I get excited about seeing stuff finished. It’s not a race. I’m reminding myself. 
 

A bit of the fairing in progress. I had to secure a few of the frames that didn’t hold with a small amount of glue in spots. If I’m looking at it right it will mostly be under the floor and not seen. I’m going for fully planked. Maybe a version 2 as a cut away, which sounds like a great idea. 
 

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Posted
58 minutes ago, Tossedman said:

I've pulled up a chair and I am enjoying watching your build. Carry on with the good work sir!


Welcome. Thank you! 

Posted (edited)

It feels like I’ll break every frame fairing them.

 

It's kinda neat to realize the front middle and back have the same number of planks. I faired it trying to follow the lines of the planks, like they would flow. Fairing the stem always gives me trouble, my fairing stick lays down well. 
 

Too many updates? Too many pictures? I go in short spirts. I’m happy with the fairing of the left side. 
 

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Edited by MajorChaos
Posted

The fairing looks very good.

Jeff

 

In progress:
Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Company -1/2" scale

USS Constitution - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76

HMS Granado - CAF Model - 1:48

HMS Sphinx - Vanguard

Posted

Personally, I like the amount of detail and number of photos.  Nice close up work on the images. 

 

BTW, I found it useful to look at the assembly instructions that Chuck posted for this group build. They help tie your progress with the process. 

 

Thanks for sharing the details. 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Robert Chenoweth

 

Current Build: Maine Peapod; Midwest Models; 1/14 scale.

 

In the research department:

Nothing at this time.

 

Completed models (Links to galleries): 

Monitor and Merrimack; Metal Earth; 1:370 and 1:390 respectively.  (Link to Build Log.)

Shrimp Boat; Lindbergh; 1/60 scale (as commission for my brother - a tribute to a friend of his)

North Carolina Shad Boat; half hull lift; scratch built.  Scale: (I forgot).  Done at a class at the NC Maritime Museum.

Dinghy; Midwest Models; 1/12 scale

(Does LEGO Ship in a Bottle count?)

 

Posted

Fairing of the hull is completed. I’ve fussed over it for a bit, tried to find all the fuz to sand off. 
 

I clipped the keel at the stern with the sanding block, I got it about even on both sides, not much I can do about it now. 
 

Frame C thins from .063 to .049 at the top. I didn’t see it until I looked over each frame carefully for fuz and char. My boat will have character. 
 

Part One is completed. Not sure when to remove the tape supports, feels like now. I’ve not seen the words to do it. I have to read each section a couple of times so my mind doesn’t skip over stuff. I actually underline and highlight stuff that’s important to not miss. That way I don’t forget when I’m scanning the write up. I still put the transom on before I did the bolts. Oops. 

 

The planking is what I really want to get right. I’m used to wetting and forming planks. Setting with heat. Seems like just heat will help form planks from what I’ve read ahead for. Slow and steady, reminding myself. The keel looks good with my 1/32 fairing stick test fit. 
 

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Posted (edited)
On 2/27/2024 at 7:05 PM, robert952 said:

Personally, I like the amount of detail and number of photos.  Nice close up work on the images. 

 

BTW, I found it useful to look at the assembly instructions that Chuck posted for this group build. They help tie your progress with the process. 

 

Thanks for sharing the details. 


Good advice. Chuck’s build pictures look a lot like the parts to print from PDF. Only I can save them and zoom in on them! 
 

My printer at work took 110lb card stock (didn’t jamb up), I printed the templets for lining the hull, I got it very close to 1” exactly. I’m excited to see how it all works out. 
 

I need to read part two a few times before I get started. 

Edited by MajorChaos
Posted

As I learn how to line off a hull. It dawns on me I planked the Bluenose blind. I think I understand belts now too. I planked the whole hull on the Bluenose without any markings. It turned out pretty good lol. Which right now seems like it was dumb luck. 
 

I made frame tick templates with 9 planks each. Both sides seem close to center equal. I did take care to center the frames and make sure they looked good before and after sanding/fairing. 
 

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Posted (edited)

The chartpak 1/64 tape is entirely too much fun to work with. It’s sooo tiny. I don’t even remember why I have it. I’m still studying this part to be sure I understand it before I mark it up more. 
 

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Edited by MajorChaos
Posted (edited)

Hull lined off on both sides. 
 

I spent at least 3 hours on these 2 planks. I still ended up with a result I didn’t expect or notice. I do have a plan. I’m in no hurry. 
 

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Edited by MajorChaos
Posted

This is wonderfully time consuming. I did take a break and went the store for a few hours. 
 

Six of 36 planks glued. I tried to use the heat only and I can’t make that work. I used my water and bending rolling the wood to break the bond structure method, then held it in place while drying it with heat. I tried lots of just heat and all I did was burn my fingers. And the plank went back flat. Wet cedar is not pleasant smelling, am I’m being punished using my method lol. 
 

I used the Titebond Quick and Thick. Sparingly. Just on the frames. It drys clear and is easily to clean off on the inside later, if I get much gone wild. 
 

The tick marks are great. I’ll call the planking line up best 7 out of 11 method. Some are right on, others are way off. Law of averages should keep me straight. The ends are lining up with the supplied templates close. 
 

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Posted

Lots of trimming to make #5 fit both sides. But the trimming lines it up with the marks, so feels right. #6 looked great on the 2 side. I labeled them 1 and 2 side so I can keep track of the sheets and parts. 
 

I’ll need to rig up shock therapy to the glue bottle with a sign that says use the pencil on the edges first. So far I’ve missed a few pencil runs on the edge, it’s the bottom so maybe it won’t be noticed. I get so excited about the part fitting and get brave enough to grab the glue I spaz out and miss the pencil edge. Sigh. 
 

The planks look good with no gaps then I glue them down and small gaps show up. I either didn’t see them or didn’t get the plank exactly where it goes. I’m building another boat that won’t float, at least I’m consistent. lol. It’s probably the Titebond letting go on 20% of the plank after I think it’s set. 
 

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Posted

Looking good and am following along.  I found the planking challenging ,but very rewarding.  I did manage to destroy some of the supplied planks and had to make new ones from the extra wood Chuck supplies.  A learning experience but fun.

Posted (edited)

Thank you for the words of encouragement and the likes and follows. 
 

I always see something I could do better, after the glue sets. Plank 6 side 1 didn’t curve at the bow. It’s flat against the bow rabbit. On a normal mortal boat I could fill it with some filler. 
 

I wish it was a little bit better in places. Some places look great. 
 

I’ve been very careful with the hull. So far I’ve hammered on the keel with the sanding block, the clamps, finger nails, sanding files and my pencils. None of it on purpose. WOP seems darn durable.   
 

I know. Clamps. 
 

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Edited by MajorChaos
Posted (edited)

Thank you for the likes and the follows. Hope everyone enjoys the visit. Thank you for stopping in. I don’t like wordy build logs so I made my own lol. Focus. 
 

Planks 7-1 and 8-1 went well. I did not use much for clamps, I tried to glue part of 7-1 and then the other section later. I worked to get it laid down without spring up on its own. It went in very well and held the frame curve nicely. I was able to bend a spot with just heat and it held, that was neat. And I burned my fingers, or at least got them hot lol, it takes commitment to hold it, can’t use clamps or tools because it will mar the wood. Good news a drop of water makes it look brand new again if dinged. The cedar responds to water very well. But does smell like wet dog fur when damp haha. 
 

I can see some spots I need to pull down when I get it flipped over. I should make notes but it wont be hard to find them. Some spots are springy, not much but some. I see the keel spot I need to wedge back into the rabbit. I can’t get to it well with the frames in place, it will have to wait, but it will clean up. 
 

The tick marks front (bow) and back (stern) are working out well. The tick marks in the middle are getting slightly wider, but not bad, it is consistent. We won’t tell anyone if we don’t make the sheer line correctly, will we….

I figure the marks in the middle are marked wrong by me or I’m sucking the middle line of the boat in slowly plank by plank. It’s not growing, it’s just short. As long as the sides match what can I do. 

EDIT, the tick marks are the transfers, the lines are below the 1/64 tape line. I marked it below so when I placed the planks the lines could still be seen. I did not extend the small tick marks once marked, so I knew what they were. The older solid lines under the planks are the glue line, don't go below. I'm used to marking on the planks to line up stuff. As it will be WOP finished I'm avoiding marking on the inside or outside face of the plank, I'm flying blind from my normal planking method but its going ok. So far the keel planks have kept me on track. 4 floating ends on the next planks might trip me up but its not enough to matter sliding a plank fore and aft in placement. 

 

8-1 is laid up tight against the transom with no gap. Last I looked. Happy about that. 
 

The build board had a small twist in it when I got done with planks 5 and 6 on both sides. I’ve held it down with clamps on both ends so I can push against it and it not go flying around on the table. When I pulled it up to flip it for 8-2 and 7-2 planks it was flat again. As I come up the sides the twist will lock and or not flex anymore. Hopefully it’s not a banana when I’m done lol. Highly recommended to hold the build board down flat. 
 

I’d like to not people and keep doing the boat but my business doesn’t run well without me. I might be done with planking by April, slow and steady. About 1.5 hours per plank. I figure I’m out 35-38 hours in right now. That’s around $5291 in labor cost for my business. I’ll be gone for a week this month so I might not make it unless I get a good day or 2 on the weekend. 

 

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Edited by MajorChaos
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