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Setting up deadeyes to shrouds


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Hello fellow modelers. I'm whittling away on my revell 1/96 Cutty Sark and have run into a problem. I have rigged the lower and topmast shrouds and am at a loss on how to install the upper deadeyes on them in a satisfactory way. I have made makeshift jigs from cardboard with some success but am not getting the uniformity I want. I saw a jig made from twisted wire and made one but it didnt work for me. I have come too far on a very (my very best) build to settle for low quality in this area. To me, a nice presentation of the shrouds, deadeyes and ratlines are very, very important to the overall quality of the build. Any photos of jigs or tips for this are greatly appreciated. The masts are not yet installed. Am doing the topmast and topgallant ones off-ship. Still having a time. Have cut them away twice now because they didnt meet my standard. Thanks again.

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I appreciate your problem - we've all been through this at one time or another! There are a number of ways to deal with this. Ideally there is a small amount of stretch in the shrouds that will allow for micro-adjustment. However, don't overdo it or either the lanyard will give way or the mast will pull out of line.

 

For the main part of the process I will loop the end of the shroud up (once it is in place over the masthead) until the bottom of the loop is at the level you want the deadeye to be. (A bit of water on a brush applied to the shroud at the bend will help it behave.) I then secure the deadeye in this loop with a spot of glue. Take the shroud off again and complete the lashings around the deadeye on the bench rather than in the air. Then re-install the shroud pair and reeve the laniard.

 

Other folk will doubtless provide you with other remedies. One size doesn't fit all - try them until you find one that works for you.

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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 1:96 scale and smaller allows one to cheat a bit due to the small size. I strop my all my blocks with annealed wire instead of thread/rope. You can see the way I do my deadeyes by going to my Tennessee build log page 12, post #352, page 15, post #422, and page 14, post #550. 

 

 

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Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, druxey said:

For the main part of the process I will loop the end of the shroud up (once it is in place over the masthead)

I will definitely try this Druxey.  Am I correct to assume you do something similar with a swifter as you do for a paired shroud.   With the pairs, reinstalling evenly seems like it would be pretty easy, but for a swifter is the loop at the mast head done first so it can be removed like the pairs?   Or, do you find it easier to just secure it at the mast head after the deadeye is seized  so it is line with the other deadeyes?   (I am on the road so could not check if this addressed in TFFM IV.😀)

Allan

Edited by allanyed

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Yes. The cut splice in the swifter is slipped over the masthead. Place the upper deadeye on one side where you want it, remove the swifter and turn the deadeye in. While on the bench, it is easy to position the second deadeye on the other leg of the swifter.

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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What worked for me is to slip the seized loop over the masthead, and as Druxey says loop the lower end around the deadeye where you want it to be. Then I clamp the two parts of the shroud together with a mini smooth-jaw alligator clip. This holds all together while I apply a seizing against the deadeye; the small seizing thread easily slips in between the deadeye and alli clip. Then remove the clip, apply a small bit of glue to the seizing and add the others.

 

https://canada.newark.com/mueller-electric/bu-34/alligator-clip/dp/28F496

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