Saucy Jack by cdrusn89 - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1/64th

[cdrusn89]

Girlfriend wanted a ship model to fit in a specific space, constrained both horizontally and vertically.

 

This one fits the requirements so her we go.

 

I have some experience with vanguard kits so think I know what to expect, more or less.

[cdrusn89]

One of the things I really like about the Vanguard kits is how quickly the hull structure goes together.

 

Here after less than two days efforts I am almost ready to start planking.

 

Once the lower counter dries (I used full strength PVA since you have to get the forward corners to wrap around the structure) I add the keel and stem and then "let the planking (first layer) begin!

[cdrusn89]

Inner bulwark (parts 92 and 93) pinned in position and "painted" with 60/40 PVA/H2O

 

I will let this dry overnight and then the real fun begins tomorrow.

[cdrusn89]

I have four rows of planking on each side completed and have used a single plank in each row from stem to stern so far.

 

Unlike some of my previous attempts at hull planking this time I am using medium CA to attach the planks to the bulkheads, one at a time after appropriate (I hope) tapering, so far only at the bow.

 

After the plank is in place I use a small brush and paint 50/50 PVA/H2O in the joint between planks.

 

so far so good - I will put two or three more rows from the op then and the garboard plank and work up to meet the upper band. I want the last row of planks to be below the turn of the bilge where what inevitably turns out to be a pretty "unusual" run of planking is not too visible - although this is only the first layer I need the practice.

[cdrusn89]

When I got to the port side fifth row I decided to split that plank.

This is the plank (at least on this side) that completes the more or less horizontal run of planks - the next row will start up the stern post area.

 

I had to do a little surgery on the supporting bulkheads as I thought there was too much vertical movement at the very aft end of the plank.

 

But in the end I think it worked out okay.

 

Because I did not get the stern transom pattern on exactly in the center (as you can see below) the starboard side fifth row will not land in the same place as the port. I am not sure what I will do about that now - perhaps use a slightly wider plank (at least the after half) and use the extra width at the stern to bring the plank to the horizontal/vertical transition like the port side.

Edited May 12 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

Six rows on each side. I used split planks for both rows five and six as making things"fit" at both ends is harder with a single plank. And there are no extra points for doing it the hard way.

 

Successfully made the transition to the stern post. I had to add a little "sealer" to the starboard side.

 

If I could just do this well planking Sphinx I would be a happy camper.

 

Next is to add the garboard strake and then work from there back towards the sheer.

 

[cdrusn89]

The first layer of planking is complete.

 

The starboard side has the first "coat" of thinned filler applied and some of the filler "straight" (see below). The port side planking has the 50/50 PVA/H2O that was painted on the last few rows of planking drying.

 

On the starboard side there was a significant discontinuity between the bulwark planking and the first row of planking near the bow. Clearly there was some problem with my fairing of the hull in that area.  So I will attempt to fair the two areas together with filler so the second layer will not make a repeat performance.

 

I will try and get this layer smooth using several courses of thinned filler, 220 grit sandpaper. and auto body spray paint with filler. That course of action worked (finally it seemed like a dozen  courses but was actually significantly less) on the hull of HMS Sphinx.

Edited May 13 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

With filler on the port side of the hull drying I turn my attention to the spars.

 

Six spars but only three (bowsprit,main and topmast) need tapering. I am not crazy about the dark colored wood but since they are all the same and since making relatively long thin spars out of rectangular stock can get pretty tricky I will use these.

 

Also - no painting so one less thing to accomplish.

[cdrusn89]

Main and top mast completed just need to add the line to the double block on the aft side of the lower mast cap - it will be the throat halyard for the gaff.

 

The two pieces are not yet glued together. Too much opportunity for damage with long, thin "things".

 

Working the other spars and the hull is in the paint booth for its first coat of primer + filler. Will let that dry overnight and the prepare for the second "try".

 

The replacement HMS Sphinx kit looks to be here on Thursday so I need to keep pressing on the Saucy Jack. I would like to get it to the stage where I can work on it a little at a time while I rebuild the Sphinx hull.

Edited May 14 by cdrusn89

[Rick310]

Nice!

Rick

[cdrusn89]

Thanks Rick!

 

Anyway i got the rest of the spars completed and have the appropriate blocks and such attached as per the instructions. The bowsprit and boom still have some extra length that makes for a handy place to grab them while applying the Wipe-on-Poly. For the spars I did that with a small disposable "brush" as trying to use a cloth is very hard around all the "stops" that seem to be attached at every opportunity.

 

I also have the hull in good enough shape to proceed. to my dismay I find that the primer plus filler that I previously bought at an auto parts store is no longer carried. IO tried some Rust-oleum Primer plus filler from Walmart but I either bought the wrong one or this is a very different product from what I used before as the filler clogs up the sand paper in very short order - which did not happen with whatever ir was I used previously - of course I do not have a can lying around.

 

So now to trim up the over long spars and start preps for hull planking layer 2.

 

Edited May 16 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

When I went to add the outer "patterns" to the keel I noticed that in addition to the slots not being equidistant from the ends they are also not equidistant from the top (or bottom). Don't ask me how I know but it IS possible to get them on "upside down". I believe the correct orientation is with the larger portion toward the bottom of the keel. It IS possible to get at least one on the other way but the difficulty getting the second one on caused my to re-examine things and come to the above realization.

 

 

 

I moved on to the lower counter outer "pattern". Having learned that it is entirely possible for the part to slip while adding the rubber bands I decided to form the part first and then glue it down. As I have seen before, when completely dry the pear wood will retain the shape assumed when wet. Once that is done I will go back and add the outer keel (and stern post) patterns and get on with the second layer of planking.

Edited May 16 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

I am still fiddling around with the stern pieces. Can't seem to get everything to fit as they should.

 

While slowly dealing with that I have been assembling the so called deck furniture.

 

I have the fish hatch, companionway and forward hatch assembled and have applied (by brush) a coat of Wipe-on-Poly.

 

I will add the rope to the hatches after the poly is dry. FYI - I am using  Syren .018 Ultra Tan line for the hatch lines. In fact I am using Syren line in most everyplace I can. The smallest they make is .008" so I am using the provided (or similar) for the .1mm (.004") lines both dark and light.

 

Here the hatches drying along with the line on my makeshift spool.

[cdrusn89]

At last - the outer bulwarks and first row of the second layer are done.

 

I am using "medium CA" to glue the planks down - instructions say "gel" but my "thick CA" is really thick and says it is "gap-filling" which is not some thing that would be helpful if the CA fills a gap that needs to be occupied by a plank in the next row.

The transition from the transom to the side planking did not go as well as I had hoped. I cut some small "filler" pieces and jammed them into the openings then had to modify the ends of the first row of planks to fit into the remaining opening. I am not sure how this is going to look after a bit of sanding but it will have to do as I am fresh out of ideas to make this area look better. At least it is somewhat consistent from side to side.

 

 

[cdrusn89]

Both sides planked to the transition to stern post.

 

I used full length planks until the last one since the fit is kinda critical at each end.

 

Moving to garboard plank now then work up toward what is already done until that proves unworkable which may be sooner than I might hope.

[cdrusn89]

After three trips to the paint booth with filling and sanding in between I think I have the hull ready for the "final" waterline marking and then painting the below waterline portion flat white.

 

Before doing the "real" waterline I carefully (I think) sanded down any ridge on paint/filler that developed while doing the fill/paint/sand routine.

 

Here is the hull before I mark the waterline.

[cdrusn89]

I remasked the waterline. It turned out about 1mm above where the filler ended most places.

 

I will start the flat white in the morning. I painted the hull/tape junction with Tamiya XF-86 Flat Clear as I have heard that this helps to seal the junction and further reduces the prospect of the spray getting under the tape.  I thought about using the Tru-Color flat clear I had left over from something else but I wanted a water based product so I ordered the Tamiya from Hobbylinc.

Edited May 22 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

While waaiting around for paint to dry and other "lulls" in activity I started to look at the sails.

 

I purchased the "premium" sail set from Vanguard and they are a good deal more "finished" than the ones supplied with the kit.

 

I started with the jib. Looking at the drawing (Sheet Plan 11) it is not easy (for me) to understand how the jib is attached to the jib stay except that it occurs at nine places (corners excepted) at the junctions between the several panels of material that make up the jib.

 

I have sailed on a sailboat (mostly much smaller than the Saucy Jack) and the jib in those cases is attached to the fore stay with "hanks" which can be anything from spring loaded clips (on very small boats) to quite complex metal devices.

 

For Saucy Jack I opted for the simplest (for me) implementation of a hank using 28 gauge annealed steel wire.

 

I started by punching a hole in the jib at the edge using a sharp awl. Then I treaded a piece of 28 ga wire though the hole.

Next I used the smooth end of a #40 drill bit and wrapped the wire around the bit with the two ends crossing on top on each other.

I removed the drill bit and used a pair of lineman's pliers to squeeze the two wires together where they cross and cut the ends off close to the crossing point.

I carefully put a drop of medium CA on the junction and held on for a minute or so for the CA to set.

 

To "fly" the sail I will route the jib stay through the wire loops before terminating it at the bow and attaching the halyard and associated tackle.

 

But there will be a bit in the future as I still have to figure out the other sails as well as finish the hull.

 

 

 

 

Edited May 23 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

Since very few people (thanks Jacques) seem to be looking at these posts I will have to be content with they will be here in case someone else actually builds the Saucy Jack. I am building it because it will fit in the designated (by she who must be obeyed) location. I probably would not have chosen it otherwise.

 

So here is the jib on what will be the jib stay with all the appropriate lines/blocks attached.

I also attached the top sail to the yard using the drawings as at least the starting point.

On a less cheerful not I found that I did not adequately protect the stern of the vessel while handling it during the multiple iterations of sanding an filling. The upper portion, with the openings broke off - several times actually and finally I had to perform major surgery to remove the upper section of both the inner and out transoms. I decided that since I am unlikely to be able to get all the openings properly sized and spaced i would just fill in the area and call it done. I also decided to paint the interior transom area the same green as the stripe down the side. Although it does appear I made the stripe wider than instructions show and may decide to paint the hull all the way down to the wales green.

 

So here is the stern repair waiting for the glue to dry and then some filler (maybe) and paint. The "B" means back as opposed to "F" for front so I did not glue it on backwards - the surgery was not completely bilaterally symmetric so the orientation matters.

 

 

 

 

[cdrusn89]

While waiting for the filler to dry on the transom I decided to continue the sail work on the main sail.

 

The main is attached both to the mast with hoops and to the gaff with lashings.

 

I decided to do the easier one first - hoops.

 

I am using the Guttermann polyester thread as a substitute for that provided in the kit as I want to make sure I have enough to do this kit as well as Sphinx And I am terribly wasteful of rigging line.

I think 600m will probably last me a lifetime.

 

So the mast hoops are on the PE sheet which I previously cleaned (very important to clean the brass before painting - don't ask me how I know) and painted flat black.

 

Using the drawing I determined that the hoops are 14-15mm apart and so I used a sharp awl to make a hole in the edge of the sail and threaded a piece of line through the hole. The through the hoop from the bottom with one side of the line and in from the top with the other.

Then a simple overhand knot against the side of the hoop.

Tighten the overhand knot while keeping the hoop to sail junction tight - it helps to have something handy to keep the sail from moveing.

A very small drop of thin CA to seize the knot.

 

When the CA sets, cut off the excess thread - I use cuticle clippers as they are quite sharp and easy to get into tight places.

[JacquesCousteau]

Nice job on the sails!

[cdrusn89]

I added some filler to the seam where the "new" piece was added. I will apply a coat of green then probably need another coat.

While I had the green paint out I decided that the bare stripe I had above the wales was too thin and went ahead and painted the sides above the wales all green. I still have a strip of natural below the wales so there is some evidence that the hull was planked in the more or less conventional manner.

 

 

Edited May 24 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

Thanks Jacques!

Here is the main sail mounted on the mast and gaff.

 

I thought it came out alright.

 Only the flying jib (actually called the outer jib sail but my experience is that the most forward head sail is called the flying jib) left and it only has a block at the peak for the halyard tackle and sheet lines so I will leave that until I have the spars are in place and am really "hanging sails"..

Edited May 24 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

The hull is nearly complete. Just have to add the rudder and then start installing the deck furniture. FYI the blue tape is to protect the white hull from damage while it is being handled going forward. Don't ask me how I know the precaution is necessary.

 

FYI - I used blackened brass belaying pins instead of the PE ones included. They are actually round like the real ones.

 

As I mentioned previously I decided to paint the entire hull above the wales green.

Edited May 25 by cdrusn89

[H NELSON]

Thanks for all the detailed photos....this will come in handy when I get back to my build someday!

[cdrusn89]

Now with all the deck furniture added. I decided to leave the tiller off until the rigging is completed. It makes to tempting a target for an errant hand or tool.

 

I purposely have the deadeyes tilted outboard to make threading the lanyards easier - but still not easy.

[cdrusn89]

You are welcome Horatio Nelson (I assume the h stands for Horatio).

 

More pictures to follow.

[cdrusn89]

Now the "real" fun.

 

Shrouds and deadeyes. My technique includes making the shrouds up (in pairs per the drawings) with one deadeye fixed in place and the other "adjustable" as well being able to control the overall length of the shroud my moving the adjustable deadeye.

 

At the top of the lower mast the shroud pair goes over the top of the lower mast. The instructions would have the top mast in place at this point as well but I think it will just get in the way and plays no part in the lower shrouds so....

 

Anyway that is not really the area of interest.

 

Down at the channels I used two pieces of .020 piano wire to make two (as identical as I could make them) "templates" for the deadeye spacing based on the drawing.

 

Here you can see the two wire templates fitted into the center eye  of the bottom deadeye and likewise into the upper deadeye. The left shroud length was fixed before installation so "all" that has to be done is to adjust the shroud length to hold the deadeye in place. If necessary (and it usually is) I use a piece of pencil eraser to hold the upper deadeye to the template.

I have adjusted the right deadeye to tension the shroud and now a few drops of thin CA and it is on the port side for the next pair of shrouds.

Edited May 27 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

Starboard side shrouds completed and deadeyes threaded with lanyards although not tied off yet.

 

The port side has two shrouds completed and I will rig those and then tighten and tie off the lanyards one at a time alternating sides although given the dimensions of the mast and its secured well below deck the risk of distorting it is pretty small.

 

I should also mention that in spite of the instructions to the contrary I have not glued in the bowsprit yet - along with the tiller it is too easy to get fouled by something. Both will go only when absolutely necessary.

This is my first time using 100% polyester line for rigging lanyards and I am not sure I would use it again. When I get to the ratlines that will be the real test of the polyester. You have to be able to cut it cleanly with minimum "stress" and I am not sure how well it will perform.

 

All this in preparation for HMS Sphinx which has three masts and many more deadeyes, lanyards and ratlines.

Edited May 27 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

Port side deadeye lanyards completed.

 

The deadeyes could be a little closer to the same height but since they are in pairs if you move one up the other moves down so.... And I managed to scratch up the sides behind the channels reaching with the tweezers to grab the line coming through from outboard. Maybe I will try and get back there with a small brush - and maybe not.

 

The lanyards look a little "thin" to my eye but I think the Guttermann Tera 60 I used is slightly larger than the Guttermann CA02776 that comes with Sphinx and I assume it is the same material on Saucy Jack although it does not come identified my manufacturer in the SJ kit.

 

Also another hit on the polyester lanyards is they seem to have less ability to resist the twist in the shroud line and thus the deadeyes appear even more out of alignment. On a larger ship there is a wooden batten that runs across the shrouds just above the deadeyes (which I am sure has a particular name but...) that helps to correct the deadeye alignment but not on Saucy Jack (although adding one would not be terribly difficult). Admittedly what I have used before for lanyards (Syren .008") is considerably thicker but at 1/64th has not seemed totally out of scale on other models although that is a pretty small sample size - at least for me. I have built only two other models with this deadeye/shroud configuration, both 1/64th scale (Niagara and Pride of Baltimore)

 

On to the starboard side to finish up and then my favorite - ratlines   .🙁.

Edited May 27 by cdrusn89