HM Cutter Sherbourne by Stuka - Vanguard Models - 1:64

[Stuka]

So it was finally time.  Tools have been gathered and I finally got a small desk for the job.  First step is just some pre beveling so I suppose I'll just follow the indicator lines and sand it down to that.  I am afterall new to all this so hopefully it goes alright.

 

This is just a startup progress so I will post more here in time.  

Edit, I am sanding with the smallest Modelcraft "finger sander" and so far its doing pretty well (I just hope the band dont break to easily hehe..)
 

Edited September 2 by Stuka
corrected log title

[Paul Le Wol]

Hi Stuka, nice start and nice choice. Cutters are great. Good luck. 

[Stuka]

Update 1

So I continued to sand the bulkheads but I thought to myself. Maybe im sanding to much like the instructions told me not to do. So I looked a few pages ahead and sure enough the thin indicator lines are meant to be sanded down abit later so that sped things up a little. 

 

After slotting in all the bulkheads I moved on to the "Stabilizer bulkheads"  and here I encountered maybe an error on Vanguards behalf. It says on 4: to remove bulkheads 19R and 18L.  Except no 18L exists and later its mentioned as 19L anyway so probably a mistype. Anyways I slotted in the stabilizers and everything looks fine thus far.  

 

[Stuka]

Update No 2 

Hello again. I have made some slight progress attached some bulkheadbeams and also the stern frames. with these parts I dryfitted them a couple of times just to make sure the fit good once PVE glue is on. But all has gone well so far even did the work stand for some easier convenience though I did encounter some questions if anybody here wants to enlighten me.  

First question:  Its mentioned in the manual that now I should brush down watered down PVE to strengthen the hull. Am I meant to brush all areas that make contact with each other to strenghten the hull?  Also how watered down PVE are we talking of doing here?

Second question: So I did look at some other build logs about a coming future problem. People wrote about not gluing the bulkhead ears with the bulwark patterns because you would most likely snap pieces off the bulwark once you are supposed to remove the bulkhead ears. This makes me want to stop and search for more info regarding this. 

But all in all this hobby is very fun so far (very time consuming aswell 😆)

[Craigie65]

Good progress.

Having built a few of Vanguard’s excellent kits, the glue is usually run into the joints between the bulkheads, keel and sub deck.  The manual seems to show that for this kit too. As to consistency there is no formula, just enough water to make the PVA easier to brush and wick into the joints.

 

I have not built this one, but looking at the manual at step 28 it would seem that the glue is applied below the horizontal engraved line on the bulwarks, with none on the tabs, as step 53 shows no glue marks on the removal of the tabs.  I think that is why there are not clamps on every tab in step 28. Effectively it is glued below the level of the deck.  I am sure others, who have built it, will chime in.

 

good luck

[Stuka]

4 minutes ago, Craigie65 said:

Good progress.

Having built a few of Vanguard’s excellent kits, the glue is usually run into the joints between the bulkheads, keel and sub deck.  The manual seems to show that for this kit too. As to consistency there is no formula, just enough water to make the PVA easier to brush and wick into the joints.

 

I have not built this one, but looking at the manual at step 28 it would seem that the glue is applied below the horizontal engraved line on the bulwarks, with none on the tabs, as step 53 shows no glue marks on the removal of the tabs.  I think that is why there are not clamps on every tab in step 28. Effectively it is glued below the level of the deck.  I am sure others, who have built it, will chime in.

 

good luck

Thanks for the feedback that clears up some things 

[PaddyO]

Hi Stuka,  I had the same questions about where specifically to apply the glue to the bulwarks in building my Sherbourne.   Craig has correctly stated how to approach it.

Good work so far, and I will be following to see how you progress. 

 

[Stuka]

31 minutes ago, PaddyO said:

Hi Stuka,  I had the same questions about where specifically to apply the glue to the bulwarks in building my Sherbourne.   Craig has correctly stated how to approach it.

Good work so far, and I will be following to see how you progress. 

 

Alright then im in good hands.  Thanks for the encouragement aswell!

[Stuka]

Update No 3 

So moving on I got to this dreaded step. Attaching the false deck to the hull was much easier said than done. The fit was very very tight and I tried several times to  dryfit it halfway to see if I should sand some more bulkhead ears to make this step somewhat easier. So I did just that and it helped a little so I then added the glue and went for it. The deck slided down halfway pretty easily but then I had to press with my thumb down around each bulkhead to slowly press them down without breaking anything.

I tried applying some preassure to some bulkheads lightly to see if the deck would fit more easily and to some extent that worked but I did accidently break two bulkhead ears in the process. So I glued them back on so they will serve their purpose with the side later on. No worries I believe since these parts will be snapped off later on anyway Im still thankful nothing on the deck itself cracked (phew).   

The deck is now aligned correctly I think and seems too fit nicely. Though perhaps an illusion the deck seems twisted? even though its all prssed down to the bottom in all areas. This step was challenging for me atleast testing my patience. 

As a final note to newcomers with this model. Even though the manual doesnt mention it by word. It is shown by images that the stern frames are sanded down so the deck can fit much better. 

 

Edited September 7 by Stuka

[Craigie65]

Looks good to me from the photos.

 

Do you mean there is a camber across the deck?

[Stuka]

7 minutes ago, Craigie65 said:

Looks good to me from the photos.

 

Do you mean there is a camber across the deck?

Thanks for the input.  Well yea seems slightly angled but it looks good from all other angles so I suppose its fine and nothing to think of 🙂

[Craigie65]

From the second and fourth pictures everything looks to be seated home.  I think you are seeing the curve of the sheer from fore to aft, and the camber from port to starboard.

[AJohnson]

Also looks good to me as well, the views along the deck can be deceptive in a picture, but if all the frames and supports are fully seated home before gluing then the frame should be square. As Craig says the camber of the deck from left to right also look correct. 

[Stuka]

Thanks guys, Then I feel more safe about this.

[Craigie65]

9 hours ago, AJohnson said:

left to right

Indeed starboard to port 😅

[Stuka]

Update No 4 

Came upon the step to fix the stern counter and transom. After looking around I got it understood that I should sand the parts so they sit flush against one another. So I started sanding the pieces and started dryfitting them up but because I was going to put them against each other at an angle. I personally found it just much easier to glue one of the parts and later when that part is sturdy I could then sand and dryfit the other part much easier. 

Gluing up the stern counter I used these big clamps which did the job very good. So when I fitted the transom later it was easier to sand and dryfit it to see if more sanding was required. Even though I tried alot to get it to sit 100% flush. I still got this tiny area which Im thinking of using woodfiller on perhaps? Though maybe this isnt needed since im going to cover these parts later on with other stern parts.

Also I got the Idea of dryfitting the stern counter and even went ahead and tried to clamp it at a weird angle with a small red clamp. Which resulted in a slight bend but its barely noticable and will be covered up later.  

Overall I think this is going well apart from small mishaps here and there.

[Stuka]

Hello again

So I sanded the stern counter and it looks okay for now. Im thinking since its going to be covered up later I might not need to use woodfiller there though I still might try and sand some. As for sanding the hull it went fine I hope, ended up comparing it to other buildlogs and even went over youtube to see how much sanding exactly should be done so I hope im doing okay on that part (Ill let you guys be the judge).  Afterwards I put together the prow and keel at the same time using my sanding block as a resting place.  

Now then some questions have arisen as im getting to the part where im supposed to fit the bulwark pattern. From the info I gathered it seems that the bulwark pattern should be wetted down and bent like planks. I even saw a video of one guy that used a plankbender to shape it better so what do you guys think is the best method to do this. let it become wet and gently bend it around the bulwark and then clamp in place for it to shape?

Since im also very new I hope the way im updating this buildlog is correct. 

Edited September 11 by Stuka
Picture

[AJohnson]

You probably don't need to wet the bulwark pattern, but if you do allow it to dry in its new shape (there are plenty of build logs where people leave them to dry wrapped around a suitable round tin using rubber bands etc.) before gluing to the hull to allow it to shrink back to its original length.  Your build will soon start looking like a ship! 😁

[Stuka]

9 minutes ago, AJohnson said:

You probably don't need to wet the bulwark pattern, but if you do allow it to dry in its new shape (there are plenty of build logs where people leave them to dry wrapped around a suitable round tin using rubber bands etc.) before gluing to the hull to allow it to shrink back to its original length.  Your build will soon start looking like a ship! 😁

So what you are suggesting is that I should be able to just put it on without any water treatment? Also yea its starting to come together fingers crossed 😁

[AJohnson]

Yes, I added the bulwark patterns on my Trial without water. Just took my time, working from bow to stern. But if you feel there is too much spring and a risk of snapping, pre shaping them with water and leaving to dry is also a route many use. 

Edited September 11 by AJohnson

[Stuka]

Hello once again. So I did bend the bulwark pattern very careful starting from the bow and I gotta say I was really scared for the wood to snap but it was alright. After I got it in place I clamped it on and left it for 1 day also while doing that I saw that my stern counter needed abit of a sanding so the bulwark pattern would run flush with the stern counter. For this job I used my needlefiles to get in between the clamped bulwark pattern for trying the fit. 

Gluing on the pattern I used a small brush and brushed the glue under the indicator line for the deck. So not to make the mistake of gluing together the pattern with the bulwark ears to save some sanity for later. I also added some glue to the stern area of contact aswell as the hole in the prow. Then while gluing on I worked my way from the prowl/bow to the stern though I might have made a small error as I glued the port side pattern abit off from the stern counter (pictures below).  Though this is just some self reflection that I gotta look on all corners before attaching the pieces in the future to double check alignment. In this case I think some slight sanding and wood filler might do the job aswell as fix that gap in the stern counter/transom area. 


Im now approaching my first planking ever aswell so Im going to look up some techniques. Because I have no plank benders I hope a novice like me can pull this off. Otherwise perhaps im looking into getting a plank bender but we shall see.
 

[Craigie65]

Hi Stuka,

I think that the left bulwark being so high above the transom is going to give you problems later in the build. Can I suggest that you remove and reposition.  If you have Isopropyl Alcohol (you can get from amazon for a reasonable price) this will debond PVA pretty quickly, failing that water and a bit of patience will get you there. Getting these two piece symmetrical will pay dividends, otherwise I fear you will be chasing the build throughout.  

 

I know it seems a step backwards but you would be surprised how many builders have done just that.  I have even seen one log where the whole of the first planking was redone!  But it really paid off in the long run.  As you read more logs you will see many setbacks and “re-dos” that are overcome to produce a lovely model.

 

good luck!

[Stuka]

25 minutes ago, Craigie65 said:

Hi Stuka,

I think that the left bulwark being so high above the transom is going to give you problems later in the build. Can I suggest that you remove and reposition.  If you have Isopropyl Alcohol (you can get from amazon for a reasonable price) this will debond PVA pretty quickly, failing that water and a bit of patience will get you there. Getting these two piece symmetrical will pay dividends, otherwise I fear you will be chasing the build throughout.  

 

I know it seems a step backwards but you would be surprised how many builders have done just that.  I have even seen one log where the whole of the first planking was redone!  But it really paid off in the long run.  As you read more logs you will see many setbacks and “re-dos” that are overcome to produce a lovely model.

 

good luck!

Thanks for the insightful input, I acted on that very quickly as the glue had only been on for around 4 hours. I sawed the glue with my mini saw very carfully and then reglued it aswell as realigned it. This is the result also I think after maybe im going to do some water PVA mix to strengthen the bulwarkpattern to the hull by gluing the springs in between. 

[AJohnson]

Good job and advice from Craig. That has saved you a lot of bother later. 

[Stuka]

1 minute ago, AJohnson said:

Good job and advice from Craig. That has saved you a lot of bother later. 

Im grateful for the advice, its what makes me learn more about this hobby and what errors to look out for.

[Craigie65]

Perfect!

That looks spot on. Looking forward to the next instalment. 

[Stuka]

Mini update and looking for advice 

So I experimented with some wood filler while sanding the transom/counter and it got a little messy but the area is flush and nice now. However now as I have been reading on about planking and trying to find good videos on it im feeling abit lost. Instructions tell me about that the first plank should be laid right below the bulwark pattern so I tried following the instructions but Im having trouble with understanding how to properly taper my planks. 

I looked around here but I cant find anything easy to visualise for myself. So far I have only wetted the plank and tried fitting it around the bow from the 5th bulwark and there is a huge gap between the upper edge of the plank and the lower edge from the bulwark pattern. I understand that I need to taper it here but I cant seem to grasp where to put my markers  so some directions would be greatly appreciated.

(I can throw in some pictures if need be aswell)

[Craigie65]

Hi Stuka,

This can seem daunting, but remember this is a double plank model. The first layer is a base so you can get away with it not being perfect.  

The issue new builders find is there are lot of different methods and you try and reconcile them and well, fail.

 

Find one method that works for you and stick with it.

 

Looking at the manual suggests that the planking on each side is composed of 12 planks.  Given they are 5mm wide you have 60mm which is probably the distance on the bulkheads in the middle -  I am guessing frames 5 through 10.  You can run a bit of paper or masking tape along the curve and measure if you want. As you move forward the distance on each frame reduces.  For example if frame 4 is only 54mm then you need to taper each plank to 4.5mm at frame 4.  You then repeat this at frames 3 , 2 and 1.  At frame 1 it may be say 30mm and thus the taper is 2.5mm.  Try not to reduce the plank to less than half its width. You get a series of points on your plank from which you hopefully get a reasonably straight line through.  The manual suggests that frame 4 or 5 is the last full frame and that you need to taper from one of these points. Use a steel rule and craft knife to cut the plank.

 

As you work down the hull you may need to adjust the taper as it is easy to get out of kilter when working with fractions of mm!

 

Looking at the rear of the model you might not need to taper, indeed you will have triangular gaps to fill - these are called stealers.  For the first planking you can get away with the sharp point. There is a “correct” way of adding stealers but for now just fill those gaps!

 

You may find that the plank wants to rise up, that is where edge bending comes in.  Look for Chuck’s video tutorial on those, here is the link Planking. Post 2 has the videos.  I use a travel iron to heat the planks.

 

I would recommend bevelling the back of the top edge of each plank.  You are planking on a curve and you will get a small gap between each plank if you don’t.

 

As Chuck’s videos show the plank needs to have full contact with the bulkhead, otherwise you get a clinkering effect.  You may get away with a small amount of clinkering that can be sanded out per the manual, but aim to get as much of the plank on the bulkhead as you can.

 

You will learn a lot from your first planking.  It will act as a guide for the second planking, remembering that quite a bit of the hull will be under a coat of paint!

 

you will not get each plank right so don’t be afraid of redoing

 

 

[Stuka]

Thank you so much Craig for the indepth  answer. Helps a novice like me tonnes so big thanks to that 🙂. So I measure all the bulkheads divide their number by the amount of planks so I get the width of plank for each bulkhead.  I guess then I should try mark the areas where the bulkheads are on the plank itself so I can add the markers for each bulkhead and taper it according to the calculation I got from  before? 

Also for the edge bending I follow Chucks video on laying the plank across the hull and mark the area of the biggest gap. Im just double checking so Im not misunderstanding anything. 

 

2 hours ago, Craigie65 said:

Looking at the rear of the model you might not need to taper, indeed you will have triangular gaps to fill - these are called stealers.  For the first planking you can get away with the sharp point. There is a “correct” way of adding stealers but for now just fill those gaps!

Is there something on my model you see or is it just that common to add stealers?

Finally what tools are best for the bending and what tools do you guys use when planking?  Im myself really considering getting myself  an electric plank bender but I cant decide which one is the best. 

 

[Craigie65]

1 hour ago, Stuka said:

mark the areas where the bulkheads are on the plank itself

Yes, that’s right

 

1 hour ago, Stuka said:

measure all the bulkheads

Yes - at the widest if you get say 58mm, then 11 full width and one at 3mm will be easier to work with than taking a little off each.

 

on bending, its a bit trial and error to get the right point to bend from, but it will be closer to the point where the plank starts to rise.  You can give it a little bend and if that is not enough bend it a bit more.

 

Stealers are very common across most builds, it’s not just this model.

 

As for tools, I use a travel iron for edge bending. I have read others suggest a mini heat gun, but we had an unused travel iron and requisitioned it for modelling purposes 😉.  I find the electric plank bender is rarely used, more for very tight bends which you don’t have on this model.