Bounty Boat by AlfredoCampos - OcCre - 1/24

[AlfredoCampos]

The Bounty Boat is my first model. Its fascinating to learn the misteries of ship building and woodwork, yet as fascinating as sometimes hard.

 

After a series of problems with a bent keel and poorly placed (not squared) bulkheads, I wrote my first post here desperately looking for help. The wonderful people here promptly came to the rescue, suggesting many ideas on how to verify everything and fix the problems. 

 

After solving those issues and going forward with the build, I've studied a lot, both manuals and videos, yet the learning curve is steep. I thus decided to start this build log, both as a place to find help and suggestions, and a place for future beginners like me to find clues on essential skills and tasks.

 

I hope you like it! If you want or need a discussion on bent keels and unsquared bulkheads, try here: 

 

[AlfredoCampos]

After the problems mentioned in the intro, I checked every bulkhead and unglue those which weren't squared - most in fact. Also built a little jig to both hold the ship and keep the keel straight.

The final result, even if not perfect, was greatly improved.

[AlfredoCampos]

Started planking (after bevelling) and, for a beginner, bending planks is quite the challenge until you figure it out!

 

My first mistake (at least felt like it) was to soak and heat and only after applying heat, bending into form. It didn't work, when clamps were taken off the plank sprang back about halfway into its original form.

Tried to force it into place and clamp it while the glue dried, useless, it held for a bit and then unglued. Ended breaking a couple planks.

 

Finally understood that I needed to apply the heat while bending and that the proper form must be achieved before glueing, no forcing whatsoever. Also got an electric plank bender, a wonderful tool. Simply soak in hot water for a few minutes and patiently apply the bender, carefully but firmly, until the needed form is achieved. Dry fit and clamp for cooling, afterwards the planks were exactly as intended.

 

Maybe not an exact mirror, but looking rather well.

Edited October 15 by AlfredoCampos

[AlfredoCampos]

Now that I've laid the top plank, I'm having serious doubts on how to proceed.

 

I've read a lot these past weeks, all manual here just to start with, and videos too. I think I've grasped the notion of measuring all bulkheads in order to find the width for planks on each bulkhead, which are to be tappered.

 

The basics seem simple, like in the picture: lay a planking band, find measurements for both bands and sides with tick strips, the goal is to have the same number of planks across the hull, from stern to bow, eventually using stealers and drop planks.

 

What is my doubt then? Instructions from both Occre and Artesania Latina (with differences) show a competely different method, whereby the result seems a planking done from the outside to the inside.

 

Occre starts planking from the keel, allowing the planks to flow upwards: the fourth plank already connects to the upper one. From there (pictures are scarce in the instructions) it planks from the top towards the keel, filling the open space as a "closing mouth".

Furthermore, the garboard goes up to the transom, not twisting it to follow the keel under the last bulkheads, this part is planked with second planking only.

 

Artesania Latina is similar and with more detailed pictures. Its quite evident what I'm calling "closing mouth". It also uses stealers and (properly?) twists the garboard to follow the keel, although it doesn't mention the need to sand the keel in the deadwood area in order to accomodate the planks.

 

Another user, Boerscht, follows Occre's instruction with beautiful results, you can check his log here: 

 

 

I can't decide how to go forward and would love to hear your suggestions. While Boerscht's build is beautiful and shows that Occre's instructions (and Artesania's, except for the garboard twist part) can lead to a great result, it seems completely contradictory to everything I've read. Those increasingly smaller, oval planks, "closing the mouth" just seem unnatural. Still, it seems results are guaranteed if I follow like this.

 

Instead, it would seem that a more realistic build would to be adequately measure everything, tapper and use drop planks and stealers on the bow. This real size ship, by the National Maritime Museum in Cornwall shows that possibility in practice.

 

 

However, I laid a planking batten to check the flow of the hull (I nailed it but forgot to photograph, redid only with clothing clamps just to show you) and indeed - if laid naturally - the batten goes all the way up to the top plank. So it seems that each full plank would need to alternate with a drop plank.

 

Would love to hear how you'd continue this build! Should I try "following the rules" for a more realistic result or go for a simpler route? Am I overthinking a begginners build ou did I get the theory wrong?!

Edited October 15 by AlfredoCampos

[JacquesCousteau]

Great job repairing the bulkheads, the framework looks great!

 

On the planking, as you note, you have two options. The method given in the instructions is not accurate to how boats are actually built, but as you've seen, the end result can still look quite nice.

 

The other method will require more work but is more accurate. That said, I don't think you'd need a stealer between every full plank. Rather, you'll need to taper each plank substantially at the bow, possibly close to the half-width limit (the exact size is something you'll have to determine with measurements). You'll also need to edge bend the planks such that they curve downward toward the bow. I haven't ever edge bent planks, but if you look at my Half-Hull build linked to in my signature, you can get a sense of what planks should look like as they approach the bow. I just cut them in that shape from a sheet, but you can get the same results by edge bending a tapered strip. If you keep looking around on this site, you'll be able to find lots of examples of edge-bending that should be helpful.

 

All of which is to say, it's up to you which method you want to go with, both can look nice. Personally I find it fun to try to recreate accurate planking, but I wouldn't begrudge anyone for doing it the other way, especially for their first build.

[AlfredoCampos]

Hi everyone! First of all, apologies for not posting for a while. As decisions had to be made (see above), I spent some time reading and gathering opinions.

 

I decided to go for a more realistic build, using full length planks from stern to bow, with a correct garboard bent on the deadwood area and with proper measurements to ensure i can fit all planks (13) along the hull. So basically I'll leave the instructions aside regarding planking.

 

With said measurements, checked and rechecked, I believe it is possible to fit all planks with going below the 1/2 width limit. Eventually I may have to use a stealer and a drop plank and that will be it.

 

First step was sanding down the false keel and garboard plank at the stern (and following planks too) in order to keep it straight with the rudder. Stopped halfway for safety, will complete when the whole hull is planked. Also added another support block between bulkheads 3 and 4, as the plank was dropping bellow the intended shape.

 

In the pictures below, you'll see the result of the work on the garboard plank. I have another 3 placed, will post later. Again, apologies for the time since my last post, for a first time modeller this has taken quite some trial and error.

 

1) Garboard at the bow, I think I managed a good result in not allowing it to go upwards. Note the added supports.

 

 

2) Garboard at the stern, properly (halfway) sanded down.

 

 

3) Garboard twist. Here, I'm afraid I may have twisted a bit sharply, should possibly have been more gradual from one bulkhead to the other. After following allong, when the hull is fully planked, I may correct it with filler in order to achieve a nice curved shape.

 

[AlfredoCampos]

Hello, some news on the progression of the planking. Laid the first planks above the garboard, focusing on keeping the rise at the bow as low as possible to avoid crowding. It's still somewhat sharp, it seems, and a bit uneven between the 4th and 5th bulkheads, which will require filling.

 

Besides the sharp twist at the garboard, I think the twist of the following planks presents a nice curve. Like the bow area, it also presents some uneven transitions which will require filling.

 

 

Although the space available allowed two planks, it required too much twisting and bending to fit, looking unnatural, so I decided to add a stealer here. Only later did I realize the cut plank should have been the previous, with the stealer cut upwards.

A dent at the end is clearly visible, requiring further filling in the end.

 

Finally another perspective showing how, besides the stealer, the plank split and was corrected instead of using a new one. It also shows an eventual problem which I ask advice for ahead.

 

First of all, the curve between bulkhead 10 up to 11 and to the transom seem rather forced or unnatural.

 

- Is this usual, that is, does it "correct itself" with progression? It cand be corrected with another stealer, but that will make the planks at the transom very thin. Should I simply enlarge the following plank in this are to even the shape?

 

Second, I'm considering using a drop plank at the bow, as measurements indicate that planks will end at nearly half width. Yet, altough I've read a lot about drop planks, I'm having some difficulty calculating widths, let's see if I achieve it with no need for spare planks, as I'm running out of them.

 

Thirdly, less important, the wood seems rather rough everywhere, compared to what I see in other builds. Am I maybe soaking/heating it too much?

 

Thank you all!

Edited November 10 by AlfredoCampos

[iMustBeCrazy]

Alfredo, I'm sorry I missed your previous post, I might have saved you some trouble.

 

On a Launch the garboard plank does not follow the keel at the stern, it goes down to the transom instead. Occre does show this in step 10.

Occre later cover the 'deadwood' in planking.

 

[AlfredoCampos]

14 hours ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

Alfredo, I'm sorry I missed your previous post, I might have saved you some trouble.

 

On a Launch the garboard plank does not follow the keel at the stern, it goes down to the transom instead. Occre does show this in step 10.

Occre later cover the 'deadwood' in planking.

 

 

 

Hi! Thank you for your comment! Indeed, I should have already pointed that out, as I've noticed it recently.

 

As I concluded that Occre indicated a simplified build at the bow, I assumed the same was the case with the transom and deadwood area.

 

In truth, it was lack of attention on my part, since I used the planking indicated my modelshipways (https://sybaritica.me/model-shipways-bounty-launch-03/) and the pictures of the reconstruction by Cornwall's Maritime Museum (https://nmmc.co.uk/2017/01/follow-the-bounty-launch-build/).

 

However, these clearly show that, while Occre's indications are indeed simplified at the bow's planking, they are correct at the stern and the garboard goes up to the transom as you say.

 

Again, proper research and no rushing is fundamental, something that my begginer's eagerness still compromises sometimes. It would have saved a lot of time, even though the opportunity to train plank twisting was still valuable. I hope that a good sanding will allow me to correct this with the second planking.

[iMustBeCrazy]

4 hours ago, AlfredoCampos said:

I should have already pointed that out, as I've noticed it recently.

No problem.

 

The model shipways kit was my first build, it was a good introduction but isn't quite the bounty launch. Cornwall's Maritime Museum replica is also close but not quite (there are more photos on their facebook page, there's a link in the Bounty Boats Facts (below)).

All kits (hell, all builds) have compromises be they base on cost or skill level.

Anyway, have a read of the Launch, 16' cutter and facts threads linked below.