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RhAF Cessna-Reims FTB337G Skymaster "Lynx" by Ferrus Manus - Roden - 1/32 - PLASTIC - Rhodesian Bush War


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Posted

The history:

From the outset of Rhodesia's existence as an independent nation, it remained completely unrecognized by all but South Africa and under total sanctions. Some of you might be old enough to remember the Rhodesian Bush War, but probably not most. Due to the sanctions and a growing threat from Soviet and Chinese- trained insurgents, Rhodesia needed a solution, quick. The solution was to purchase civilian aircraft such as the Cessna 337 Skymaster, which was made under license by French manufacturer Reims. The Cessnas, renamed the Lynx, were modified to carry napalm, cluster bombs and conventional munitions, and were used to brutal effect as a light attack aircraft against the insurgents, fulfilling much the same role as an aircraft like the A-10 Thunderbolt II. It seems as though less than two dozen of these modified Skymasters were ever made, and upon Rhodesia's transition into Zimbabwe, all were eventually scrapped. 

 

The model:

Roden seems to be a relatively middle-of-the-road kit manufacturer, akin to the ancient Airfix kits in quality and detail. While things like rivets are sparse, the kit is surprisingly complex for what it is, and everything I have read about it says it should, with considerable effort, build into a nice looking model. That being said, this kit has some issues (flash for example) that any kit designed in the last decade should be immune to. With all that out of the way, I will say that I am planning to build this kit OOB, with minimal modifications, but an extensive and detailed brush-painted paint job. My goal, as airplanes are really not my area of expertise and haven't been since I was 12 (and I haven't built a model airplane since 2022), is to build a nice looking model that doesn't involve much research or modification, except for aesthetic and quality purposes. 

 

image.thumb.jpeg.7a1b256b928a24a4025fffd098ad315b.jpeg

Thus begins a build that will hopefully last a few months. 

  • The title was changed to RhAF Cessna-Reims FTB337G Skymaster "Lynx" by Ferrus Manus - Roden - 1/32 - PLASTIC - Rhodesian Bush War
Posted (edited)

The type of engine used in the Skymaster is a Continental IO-360, a 6 cylinder, flat aircraft engine. Here's a real example: 

image.thumb.jpeg.1688691fd458be6a32cc3d5da38dec35.jpeg

Most of the examples I have seen on the web seem to show a mostly steel-colored engine with a deep, oily, almost bronze-like patina over the entire thing. I recognize many of the individual elements of the engine in the picture, having looked at the instructions and the sprues. 

About the sprues: 

image.png.8ad13d47bacdefaf31794357fa7e887f.png

Remember when I said this model is very complicated for what it is? There are a grand total of 100 engine parts, 50 to an engine, across the aircraft's two engines. For context, there are many entire aircraft kits at this scale with fewer than a hundred parts. This should make for an interesting assembly, and should make painting easier. I might begin assembling one of the engines tonight, or I might not. My only gripe is the size and location of some of the sprue gates, and that issue extends across the entire model. It reminds me of some of the Warhammer kits I used to make when I was younger. 

Edited by Ferrus Manus
Posted (edited)

The Continental IO-360, has a steel crankcase, and steel sleeved aluminum finned Cylinders and Heads...

 

The yellowish finish on the engine is the anodizing used to preserve and protect the parts from corrosion... and as you can see it doesn't last forever...

 

Here is a link to the Maintenance and Overhaul manual on this engine... (scribd link)

 

Looking good will be following...

Edited by Egilman

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

Posted

@Egilman Thank you for the information regarding the reason for the engine's disgusting appearance. I have attempted to replicate that appearance on the first of the aircraft's engines: 

image.thumb.jpeg.7fa7e11924a0430d931718ba5b67e960.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.33bd38130d052aca66b6cfa92a3c2f3f.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.53b9586d248071bfeb7222a5575145f2.jpeg

It isn't a very large engine either in real life or in my hand. I think I replicated the anodizing coating with relative accuracy using shading. One of the next things I want to achieve before setting out on the next engine is drilling some holes in the fuselage for lights and making the frame for the aft engine. 

Posted
13 hours ago, Ferrus Manus said:

Thank you for the information regarding the reason for the engine's disgusting appearance.

Oh my pleasure, it is what we are here for....

 

EG

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

Posted

Unlike any reasonable kit manufacturer, Roden actually makes you drill holes for the landing lights yourself. 

image.thumb.jpeg.071d128a00626c78a1f164bb5e5f9eae.jpeg

The way I managed to do this was to paint a tiny yellow dot on the center of each landing light (both are one piece) and, while the paint was still wet, press the piece up to where it was to go on the model. Then, I immediately wiped the still-wet paint off the lights. That gave me an idea as to where the pilot holes were to be drilled on the model, and I expanded them until I got this. While they certainly don't look very good, once they're painted and the lights are in, they won't look as  bad.

I think I got the holes at least close enough to where they were supposed to be that it wouldn't be noticeable at a reasonable viewing distance. I honestly don't understand Roden's logic of forcing a modeler to unnecessarily risk ruining their model by drilling holes they easily could have molded into their parts. This will be a recurring theme. 

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