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Posted

Gregory,

 

I just used them right out of the bag. There is some color variation between batches of blocks. But, not enough to worry about. I'm very happy with the deadeyes.

 

Also, the 3D printed stuff seems pretty sturdy. I've had wooden blocks split when trying to wire strop them. But, not the 3D printed blocks.

Posted (edited)

The next issue on the Mary is to fix the positioning of these fittings that work like cleats or kevels. Does anybody know the proper term for these Dutch belaying points?

IMG_1101.thumb.jpeg.6ea66f515ea8f96881c64634db55671b.jpeg
These fittings were mounted so low on the bulwarks that there was no room to wrap lines around them. I had to debond the glue that was used on them, which was some kind of rubbery adhesive. It made them easy to remove, but left a lot of rubbery glue spots and some hard to remove residue on the model. I did what I could and re-attached the fittings with thick CA glue.

 

This allowed me to finally rig the lines for hauling up the lee boards. Rope coils to come later.

IMG_1100.thumb.jpeg.bb21fcfbf98064b9c48921f1e5300f9a.jpeg

Looking ahead at rigging the vangs, I noted that an image of the Utrecht reconstruction showed small pin rails at the bulwarks, aft. So, I added those to the Mary. I didn't have a whole lot of room to do this, as the forward wall of the stern cabin is about an 1/8" further forward than the plans show. This was an adjustment made by the original modeler. Made the spacing a little tighter, but I think the new pin rails should be okay.

IMG_1099.thumb.jpeg.fff56c4169a3730d9d7807f12b5268aa.jpeg

 

Edited by catopower

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